Travels through Arabia and other countries in the East

TRAVELS

THROUGH

ARABIA,

AND OTHER

COUNTRIES IN THE EAST,

' PERFORMED BV

M. NIEBUHR,

KOW A CAPTAIN OF ENGINEERS IN THE SERVICE OF
THE KING OF DENMARK.

TRANSLATED INTO ENG LLSH

B Y

ROBERT HERON.

WITH NOTES BY THE TRAl^SLATCil;

JLLUSTRATEX) WirH ENCRAFINGS AND MAFS.

IN TWO VOLUMES-

VOL. 1.

EDINBURGH:

4PEINTED FOR E. MORISON AND SON, BOOKSELLERS, E£RTHj
^. >IUDJF, EDINBURGH ; AND T. VF^KNOE,
PIECHIN LANE, LONDON.

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2015

https://archive.org/details/travelsthroughar11nieb

\J. !

PREFACE ir c-x, ;

BY THE

TRANSLATOR

I REMEMBER to have read, with no fmall
furprize, of a rhyming Latin poem of con-
iiderable length, written by fome Monkifli
eompofer of Leonine verfes, in honour of
the Virgin Mary, w^hich was made wholly
np by the changes rung upon the words of
this fingle line.

Tot tibifmit^ virgo^ dotes^ quot fidera ccelo._

My wonder w^as never more highly excited
than when, in learning the rules of arith-
metic, I found what a variety of changes
might be rung upon a few bells ; and for
how many years, a company of ten or
twelve perfons might dine together, if they
fliould not feparate, till they could no
longer make a new change of places.

Similar emotions are naturally raifed in
the mind, when one connders, how uni-

VoL. L A form

vi

PREFACE.

form are the circumftances of human life,
how much alike the organs of our bodies,
and the faculties of our minds ; yet, how
innumerable the diverfities of the humau
charaöer r how few the firft general ele-
ments of nature ; yet, how endlefsly varied
the forms which this univerfe exhibits !
He who fpends his life without wandering
ever more than a few miles from the fpot
bf his nativity, or without mingling with
any other but the firft circle, whether of
courtiers, of cits, or of ruftics, into whoft
fociety he has been introduced, can know
little of the dignity, of the meannefs, of
the capacities of his nature, — and but little
of the beavities and the wonders of this
great theatre of human exertions*
. It is pleafing, indeed, to review the re-,
cords of ovir anceftors. The exercife moves
TQur affedions to a generous warmth, and
enlightens our perfonal experience. But>
the nev/ knowledge to be thus acquired, is
not confiderable. Children are but the ima-
ges of their parents ; and the fame meadow
will wear the fame afpedl, next Spring,
whic:h it fhewed oil the laft. Tp enlarge,

in

PREFACE.

ill any tonfiderable degree, the extent of
our knowledge, we muft change the fcenes
and we fhall then fee, how the manners
and enjöymerits of man vary w^ith external
circumftanees ; and how happily the gene-
ral laws of nature, notwlthftanding their
fimplicity, apply to an infinite multitude
of the minutefl and moft particular cafes.

Hence is travelling fo agreeable ; and
hence are the narratives of intelligent tra-
vellers fo rich a fund of entertainment and
inftrudlion. To wander from city to city,
from hill to vale, and from vale to hill ; to
fee one new extent of horizon open" upon
the eye after another, and landfcape after
landfcape, difplay fublimity and beauty in
all their varying forms,— affords perhaps
the moft delightful, at leaft the mofl im-
proving amufement of which the human
mind is fufceptible. To fee thefe things
through the eyes of another, is indeed
much lefs interefting, than wdien we can
view them ourfelves. Yet, as a traveller
cannot well help throv/ing into his work
more of the vivid imagery and colouring
of nature, than almofl any different wri~

A 2 ter;—

Viii PREFACE.

ters ; — even in perufing die narrative of ano-*
ther's travels, therefore, one may enjoy no
fmall fliare of that pleafure, and reap a con-
fiderable portion of the inftrudlion, which an
adual furvey of the fame fcenes might af-
ford.

Who, that has been taught to relifli at all
the pleafures of reading, can refrain from
enquiring after almoft every new book of
travels, the pu»blication of which is an-
nounced ? Hardly a fine lady can ftray
to France or Italy, after her beauty has
withered with her virtue, and her wit has
ceafed to be fafliionable ; Scarce can one of
thofe travelling governors by trade, to
whofe care the finilliing of the education
of our young men of fortune^ is fo wifely
intruded,— vifit a new fet of inns, or ride
another relay of poft horfes, on the con-^
tinent ; Not a half-pay captain attends as
toad-eater on fome valetudinary man of for-
tune, going abroad for his health : But
Tours, and Travels, and Journies, and Let-
ters, are the certain fruits of every fucli
expedition, and are as certainly bellowed,
with wonderful generofity, on the public»

All

IX

All is called for, and eagerly read : And, to
fay the truth, almoft all thofe works, how-
ever little might be expected from them,
when every circumftance is confidered^— •
afford more, or lefs, to repay, in a reafon-
able way, the expence of the buyer, and
the pains of the reader. But, when a man
of found fenfe, of real energy and adivicy
of mind, acquainted with letters, and not
unacquainted with life, — when fuch a man,
travelling, notes dovv^n his obfervations,
and communicates them to the public ; he
confers a favour, fuch as authors have it
feldom in their power to give. This fa--
vour will be fo much the greater, if his
obfervations have been made with an eye
of keen enquiry ; and if he has vifited re-
gions where all is peculiar, and but little
known.

Having thefe confiderations in my mind,
I fliould offer the following Travels to Bri-
tifli readers with no fmail pride and confi-
dence, if 1 were fure of having arrayed
them in a handfome and becoming Engiifii
drefs. Mr Niebuhr was the fole farvivor of
a party of five Daniih travellers, v/ho, be-
lli''''

ing feleded as men eminently qualified to
accompliih the feveral purpofes of fuch ari
expedition, were feat into the Eaft at the
expence of the King of Denmark, to explore
the various curiofities of Egypt, but efpe-
cially of Arabia. They proceeded firft to E-
gypt. After making an excurfion to Mount
Sinai, and preparing themfelves, by the
ftudy of the Arabic language, for the far-
ther profecution of their journey, they fail-
ed from Suez, down the Red Sea, to Jidda^
Having landed at Jidda^ they continued
their journey fouthward to Mokha ; not
w^ithout occafional excurfions to the N. E.
into the interior parts of the country. From
Mokha, they travelled nearly in a fouth-eaft-
ern direction to Sana, the feat of the great-
eft prince in Arabia. By the time they
had accompliflied this laft journey, and
returned to Mokha, two of the party were
dead ; and, by the pernicious influence of
the climate, by the unfavourablenefs of the
oriental mode of living to European confti-
tutions, by their inability to relinquifli
European habits, and by the fatigue necef-
farily attending their inveftigations, th^

health

PREFACE.

xi

health of the furvivors was fo much impair-
ed, that they were obliged to refolve upon
leaving Arabia with the firft Englifh fliip
that failed for Bombay. Mr Niebuhr and
another of his companions lived to reach
India. This other, after languiihing for a
while, at laft died at Bombay.

After this event, Niebuhr remained in
the Eaft only till he could find a fit oppor-
tunity of returning fafe into Europe, v/itli
the colledion of curiofities which was left
in his hands.

Such is the outline of thefe Travels. They
afford the lateft, and indeed almoft the on-
ly topographical account of Arabia, in the
hands of the European public. Being the
refults of the obfervation, not of one man
only, but of a party of travellers, and thofe
all well qualified to dired: their attention in
a proper line of enquiry; they contain fuch
a body of truly valuable information as is
to be met with in very few other volumes
of travels. Relating to a country famous
from the earlieft ages of antiquity ; they are
thus rendered peculiarly interefting by the
nature of their fubjedl. They throw much

new

xii

PHEFACE.

new light on the hiftorical events, the laws^
the woFihlp, and the cufloms recorded iu
the Old Teftament. And I miift, upon
the whole, confefs, that I have never be-
fore had it in my power to abufe fo good an
occaiion of receiving real mental improve-
ment with rational amiifement,as that which
the tranflating of this work has afforded me.

It would be unfair to negie6l advertifing
the reader, that the whole of Mr Niebuhr's
account of his travels, and obfervations in
Arabia, is not comprized in thefe volumes.
Various things feemed to be addreifed fo
exclufively to men of erudition, that they
could not be expei^ted to win the attention
of the public in general, and have therefore
been left out.

As to the tranüation ; I cannot indeed
fay much for it. I entered upon the taflc
with a refolution to perform it carefully,
and, as it could not be fappofed very ardu-
ous, I might perhaps fecretly flatter myfelf,
ably. I was kindly encouraged by fom^e
eminent literary characters, to whofe bene-
volent notice I have been often much in-
debted. But, after I had made confiderable

progrefs

PREFACE.

xiii

progrefs in the work ; I put what I had
performed into the hands of one gentleman,
for whofe learning, tafle, and judgments I
muft ever entertain high deference ; and
he, with the hioft candid and obliging cri-
ticifm, pointed out feveral blunders, as well
of the tranflator as of the printer, which I
was furprized to perceive, and cannot yet
think of, without lhame. Thefe I have
endeavoured, as far as circumftances would
permit, to revife and correal ; and I renewed
my diligence to guard againft all fuch mif-
takes in what then remained to be print-
ed.

I have added fome notes : I wifh, they
were valuable.

R. HERON

Edinburgh "}
Aug. I. 1792. J

li Contents.

CONTENTS,

SECTION I.
Voyage from Copenhagen to Alexandria«

Page.

Chap. L — Departure from Copenhagen, - p

Chap. II. — Paflage from Marfeilles to Malta, and

from Malta to Conftantinople, - 13
Chap. III. — Conftantinople, - - 18^

Chap. IV. — Voyage from Conftantinople to Alex-
andria, i - - - 24

SECTION II.

Of Egypt in general.

Chap. I. — Of the City of Alexandria, - 32

Chap. II. — Voyage from Alexandria to Rofetta, 40

Chap. IIL — Voy.ige from Rofetta to Cairo, - 42

Chap. IV. — Voyage from Cairo to Damietta, 45

Chap. V. — -Of the ancient Cities of Lower Egypt, 5 1

Chap. VL— Of the City of Cairo, - - 55

Chap. Vli. — ^Of the country immediately around

Cairo, - - - - 63

Chap. VIII. — Of the Mikkias or Nilometer, and of

the rifing of the Nile, - - 66

b a SEC-

xvi

Contents*

SECTION III.

Of the Government, Arts, and Trade of
Egypt.

Page

Chap. I. — Of the Nature of the Egyptian Govern-

ment, - ^ _ „ /y^
Chap. II. — Of the Grand Signlor's Officers, - 75
Chap. lit.— Of the Divan, and the Bey, ^ 77
Chap. IV. — Of the Police of the Cities, - 83
Chap. V. — Of the Egyptian Agriculture, - 8(5
Chap. Vl.^Of the Arts of fublimating Sal Ammo-
niac, and of hatching Chickens, - 99
Chap. VII. — Of the trade of Egypt, - 94

SECTION IV.

Of the Manners of the Orientals in gene-
ral, and particularly of the Egyptians.

Chap 1. — Of the Inhabitants of Cairo and its

Neighbourhood, - - - 1 01

Chap. IL — Of the Copts, , - - 103

Chap. III. — Of the Arabians in Egypt, - 107

Chap. IV. — Of the Drefs of the Men in the Eaft, 1 1 1

Chap, V. — Of the Drefs of the Women, - 116

Chap. VI. — Of the Diverfions of the Orientals, 1 2 1

Chap. VII. — Games in the Eaft - 128

Chap. VIIL— Of the Mufic of the Eaft, - 130

Chap. IX.— Of Dancing, as it is praftifed in the

Eaft, - . - - 137

Chap*

CONTENTS. XVli

Page

Chap. X. — Public Shews of the Eafl, ^ 143

Chap. XI — Marriages of the Egyptians, - 147

SECTION V.
Egyptian Antiquities.

Chap. I. — Egyptian Antiquities in general, - 149
Chap II.— Of the Pyramids, - - 153

Chap. III. — Of .the Hieroglyphics, - - 15^

SECTION VI.
Journey from Cairo to Suez and Mount
Sinai.

Chap. I.- — Preparations for our Departure, - 16^
Chap. II — Voyage from Cairo to Suez, - 17»
Chap. IIL— Of the City of Suez, - - 175

Chap. IV. — Particulars concerning the Arabs in

the Neighbourhood of Suez, - 178
Chap. V. — Journey from Suez to Mount Sinai, 182
Chap. VI. — Of Mount Sinai, and the Convent of
^ St Catharine, - - - 191

Chap. VII.— Our Return from Mount Sinai, 196
Chap. VIII. — Of the Mountain of Infciiptions, and

of an Egyptian Burying Place, - 20«
Chap. IX.^ — Of fome Cuftoms of the Arabs in the

Defart, - - « - 207

SECTION VIL
Voyage from Suez to Jidda and Loheia.

Chap. I. — Departure from Suez^ » - 212

Chap,

CONTENTS.

Page

Chap. II.— Of the Harbour of Tor, - 2 16

Chap. fll. — Voyage from Tor to Jidda, - 218

Chap. IV. — Of Jidda and its Vicinity, - 226

Chap. V. — The Government and Trade of Jidda, 234

Chap. VI. — Voyage from Jidda to Loheia, - 239

SECTION VIII.

Route from Loheia to Beit el Fakih.

Chap. L — Of our ftay at Loheia, - - 246

Chap. IL — Of the City of Loheia, - 252

Chap. in. — Of the Inhabitants of Loheia, - 256

Chap. IV.-— Departure from Loheia, - 26z

Chap. V. — Route by Tehama, - - 265

Chap. VI.— Of the City of Beit el Fakih, - 269

SECTION IX.

Excurüons through the Country about
Beit el Fakih.

Chap. I. — Journey to Ghalefka, - - 275

Chap. IL— Return to Beit el Fakih, by the way of

Kodeida, - - - - 279
Chap. III.— Journey to Zebid, - - 281

Chap. IV. — Journey to Kahhme, - 287

Chap. V. — Journey to Coffee Mountains - 28p

SECTION X.

Tourney through the Mountaneous Part
of Yemen.

Chap. I.— Departure from Beit el Fakih, - 294

Chap.

CONTENTS.

XIX

Page

Chap. IL— Route by Udden, - - 297

Chap. in. — From Udden to Dfjobla, - 30t

Chap. IV, — Route from Dfjobla, byTses, to H^s, 304

Chap, v.— Return to Beit el Fakih, - 309

SECTION XL

Journey from Beit el Fakih to Mokba.

Chap. I.— 'Route to Mokha, - - 313

Chap. U. — A_rrival at Mokha, - 310

Chap. in. — Difagreeable Incidents at Mokha, 319

Chap. IV Our Stay at Mokha, continued ; and

the Death of Mr Von Haven^ - 3 24

ChaD. V'—< We leave Mokha, - - 327

SECTION XIL

Journey from Mokha to Taoes,

Chap. I. — Our Progrefs to Taoes, - 331

Chap. II. — Of the City of Taoes, - ° 335

Chap. III.— -Late Revolution of Taoes, - 338

Chap, IV.—btay at Taoes, - « -241
Chap, v.— -Departure from Taoes to Sana, »

SECTION XIIL
Journey to Sana.

Chap, I. — Route from Taoes to Jerim,
Chap. II — Of the City of Jerim,
Chap. lO —Death of Mr. Forfkal,
Chap. IV.— Route from Jerim to Sana,

35®
35^
358
360
SEC»

C O N "T E N T S.

SECTION XIV.
Our Stay at Sana, in the Iman's CourL

Page

Cliap. I.— Our Arrival at Sana, - »

Cliap. IL-— Our Audience of the Iman, - ^pB

Chap. IIL— Tifit to Vizier Fakih Achmed, 401

Chap. IV. — Of the City of Sana, - - 403

Chap, v.— -Of the Country around Sana, - 407
Chap. VL-— The Pomp of the Iman's Return from

the Mofque, - - - 410

Chap. VlI.~Our Audience of taking leave, 412

Chap. Vin.-— Our Departure from Sana, ^ 415

SECTION XV.

Our Return from Sana to Mokha.

Chap. Route from Sana to Beit el Fakih, 419

Chap. IL^ — Route from Beit el Fakih to Mokha, 4^4

Chap. III.™-Of the City of Mokha, - 426
Chap. IV.— Bombardment of Mokha^ by the

French, - » - - 431

Chiip. V.~Of the Trade of Mokha - 434

NoT^s, - - - - - 439

VOYAGE

VOYAGE TO ARABIA,

AND

r RAVEL 5

In that country, "i^c.

, SECTION I.

VOYAGE FROM COPENHAGEN TO ALEXANDRIA,

Chap. I.

Departure from Copenhagen*

W HEN the gentlemen, who had been appointed
to go upon this expedition of obfervation and dif-
covery, were all met, we received orders from his
Majefty to proceed on board a Ihip of war, com-
manded by Mr Fifcher, at prefent a vice-admiral
in the Danifh fervice^ who was to carry us to
Smyrna* We accordingly embarked, on the 4th
of January 1761 ; and, after waiting three days
for a fair wind, failed out of the road of Co-
penhagen on the 7th of the fame month.
Vol. I. A In

10

NIEBüHR*S TRAVELS

In the beginning of our voyage, we had
a ftriking proof of the dangers and hardfhips
which attend the navigation of the north feas,
in confeqiience of the weil winds blowing over
them for nine months in the year. We had fet
fail on the 7th of January, but were fo toffed by
ftorms and contrary winds, that, on the 17th
in defpair of being able to gain any port in
Norway, we determined to return to Elfineur.

On the 26th of January, we failed from Elfi-
neur a fecond time, v^^ith a fair wind, which
continued to the end of the month. "W"e paffed
the Categat, and advanced a good way through
the North fea : But, in the beginning of Febru-
ary, the w^eather became again flormy, and the
wind contrary. After being tofled for feveral
days fucceflively, and feeing no profpecl of a
change, we, on the 9th, refolved to return to
Elfineur a fecond time, and reached it on the
loth. The wind blew with fuch violencCy as to
carry us, in thirty hours, as far backwards as we
had been able to advance forwards in nine days.

While our fiiip was thus difagreeably tofied,
without making way, we were all extremely fea-
fick; and efpecially Mr Von Haven, who, find-
ing himfelf unable to bear it any longer, ob=-
tained permiffion to go by land from Copenha-
gen to Marfeilies, at which port our fliip was
to touch.

On

IN APvABIA,

On the ipth of February, we failed out of the
road of Ellineur a third time, in hopes of finding
the winds lefs variable. But hardly had we palTed
the Skalen, when a violent weft wind forced us
back to Elfineur. We were now very uneafy,
confidering, that we had been tolTed upon thofe
feas for the fpace of 850 German miles=^, v/ithout
advancing more than four miles towards the end
of our voyage. But we had reafon to be happy
at finding ourfelves fafe at Elfineur : Immedi-
ately after our arrival there, fo furious a ftorm
arofe, that, although in fome degree flieltered
by the coaft, we were obliged to take every pof-
fible precaution for the fafety of our fliip, juft as
if w^e had been in the open fea. This (lorm a-
rofe from the weft, and continued till the 5th
of March,

The weather became gradually fiiir and fe-
rene ; and, on the loth of March, w^e left Elfi-
neur for the laft time. The wind was at firft fo
brific, that v/e failed at the rate of two German
leagues and a half in the hour. On the 12th it
changed ; and from the 19th to the end of
March, ftorms and contrary vv inds drove us as
far north as to the latitude of 63^, near the coaft
of Iceland. On this occafion I remarked, that
the motion of a veifel is moft difagreeable im-
mediately after a ftorm. In the height of a

B 2 ftorm^

* Or 2,833^ Engliih miles.

12

niebuhr's travels

ftorm, the winds incline the üiip to one
iide, and keep it firm ; but, when they are
calmed, the fhip naturally feels the impulfe of
the waves.

In thefe latitudes, Mr Forfkall made, fome
obfervations upon the phofphoric light which
the fea has been remarked to exhibit. He per-
cieved it to be produced by fmall marine in-
fe(fts, chiefly of the Medufa fpecies, with which
thofe waters are filled. Thefe infeds long re-
tain the power of fhining in the dark. Happening
to pour out by night a bucket of fea water, upon
which thefe obfervations were made, we faw all
the objeds which it tQUched, fparkle inftantly,
like itfelf (a).

Spring began to come in, at the end of March,
and in the beginning of April we had the fineft
weather in the world. But the dead calm which
fucceeded fuch a feries of ftorms, detained us in
thofe northern regions till the 8th of April. A
fair wind then arofe, and carried us fo brifiily for-
ward, that, on the 21ft of the month, we arri-
ved within light of Cape St Vnicent, which we
viewed with no fmall pleafure, as we had now
been long out of the fight of land.

After being tolTed in the North fea through a
fiorray winter, we entered the Mediterranean in
the finefc feafon of the year. Inilead of the wild
Hiid bleak mountains of the North, which could

infpire

IN ARABIA, l^C» 13

infpire none but gloomy ideas, we now viewed,
with admiration and delight, the rich and fmd-
ing landfcapes on the coafts of Africa, and on the
fouthern Ihores of Europe. Our voyage through
the Mediterranean would have been quite delight-
ful, if the frequent calms had not rendered us
impatient, and difgufted us no lefs than the ftorms
of the North had wearied and diftrefled us.

At laft, after having often tacked about, we
arrived, on the 14th of May, in the road of
Marfeiiies, and cafl anchor near St Euilace,

Chap. II.

Fajfage from Marfellles to Malta, and from Malta to Cou-^
Jtanim:ple*

The city of Marfellles is fo well known, and
has been fo often defcribed, that it is unnecef-
fary to fpeak of the beauties of its fituation, or
of the multitude of villas all around it (b).

We found the harbour full of fhips belonging
to different nations, that durß: not venture out to
fea for fear of the Engiifli fleet, under Admi-
ral Saunders. Several of them were employed
in the Levant trade, on account of French,
merchants, and would have been good prizes to
the Engiifli.

Mr

14

niebuhr's travels

Mr Von Haven having travelled through Ger-
many and France, joined us here. Here alfo wc
found three Daniüi merchant fhips, which were
to proceed to Smyrna, under the proteclion of
our fhip of war.

After viewing all the curiofities of Marfeilles,
v/e fet fail on the 3d of J une, in company with the
other three Danifh fhips. Although at peace with
the Englifh, yet v/e did not think ourfelves fafe
from being infulted by the fleets of that nation ;
as they infill upon going on board, and examin-
ing even neutral vefTels. Our Captain had de-
termined not to yield tofuch an infraction of the
rights of nations ; and accordingly prepared for
inaking a vigorous defence, if any infult of this
nature fhould be offered him. As we had expe6l-
ed, we fell in with Englifh fliips three differ-
ent times ; and they attempted to come on board
of us : But our Captain flrenuoufly refufing to
fubmit to any fuch indignity, they made off
with a bad grace, and fuffered us to continue
our route unmxolefled.

On the 14th of June, v/e arrived at Malta»
and call anchor in the grand harbour, almofl in
the middle of the city Valetta, or rather of the
feveral cities of which it is compofed. This ci-
ty has a fine appearance, when viewed from the
liabour : The houfes, with terraces on their

xoofs^

Foofs, and built againil fleep^ pointed rocks, Iiave
quite an oriental afpeil.

Ail the dwelling houfes, as well as the public
Buildings, are of hewn iloiie ; which is not fur-
frißng^ corßderiog how eafily the materials are
•f rcGured. The whole iile is one vafl rock^ co»
¥ered with a very thiii layer of vegetable earth.
The rock is calcareous, and fo foft^ that^ when
tcikm out of the quarry^ it may be cut almoli like

ood. From this circumftancej. a part of the forti--»
Scations of the city have been hewn out in the
laatural ftone.

Of the public buildings, tlie moü foperb is
St John's church, which enjoys a coiiiiderable
ieverjue^,.and is entitled to a lhare of the prices
taken by the gallies of the Order. It has thus
been enriched with a great nimiber of Yaiuable
curiofitieSy. and^ among others^ a hiHre^ with a
chain of pure gold^ 500^000 crowns in value"^*
The riches of this church are faid to- es-ceed
Ihofe of the Kaaba at Mecca, and of the tomb of
Mahomet at Medina,

We were fhewn a Terkifhihip of war^ ©f 84
l^-uiis,. which had been feized and brought into-
äialta by Chnilian ßaves. The king of France
fcon after bought this fliip^ and reiiored it to
t$he Grand Sieoior, The Order erjesd the
Bac-re readily to this^ becaufe, £nce the coB»r

YSnticFiS

l6 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

yenticns entered into hy the kings of France
and Naples with the Porte^ the Maltefe
iliips have feldom gone out on expeditions a-
gainft the Turks, But privateers ft ill go o-ut^
and bring in their prizes to Malta. Thefe Chri-
ilian corfairs are commoniy provided with letters
or marque from the prince of Monaco, or fome
other Italian prince, of whofe exifterxce the
Turks are ignorant. And the inhabitants of the
£aft hence continue to regard Malta in the fame
light in which we coniider Tripoli and Algiers.

Mr For&ali and I went together to view the
ifland. It is only five German leagues in length^'%
and two and a half in breadthf . The inhabi-
tants live under a mild government ; and ac-
cordingly cultivate this bare rock with fuck
care, that it produces excellent fruits. The old
capital, Civita Vecchia, is every day more and
more deferted.

Near the city are fome very remarkable cata-
combs, or rather fubterraneous dwellings,cut in the
rock. They are foextenfive, that it has been found
proper to build up the entrances into feveral of
the paiTages, to prevent the curious from lohng
themfelves. The remains of public halls, and
of a miln, which are there obferveable, afford
- reafon for thinking, that the iflanders once lived
in thefe fubterraneous dwellings, or at leaft retir-
ed into them in times of danger (c).

We

* Or i6| Englifh miles,— t 8|- Englifli miles.

(

m ARABIA, "ÜCe

17

We left Pvlalta on the 20th of June, and faw
llo land till the ^öth, when we entered the Ar-
chipelago. On the third of July, we entered the
road of Smyrna, where we ftaid till the loth. A
very fevere dyfentery, with which I had been at-
tacked, hindered me from feeing the city, other-
wife than at a diftance.

On the 13th, we reached the iße of Tenedos,
where we found the interpreter of Mr Gcrhler,
at that time our ambalTador at the Porte. He
brought us orders to quit the fhip^ and repair
in a fmall bark to Conftantinople. In this ifle
we faw Turks for the firft time ; and their lan-
guage and manners appeared to us fo extraordi-
nafy, that we began to defpair of eafe or plea-»
fure in our intercourfe with the people of the
Eaft. A man of diftinclion from the continent^
however, fo far forgot the precepts of the Alco--
ran, when he vifited us, that he feemed to have
come on board for no other purpofe than to
drink our Captain's wine.

We left the fhip on the 19th of July, but did
not land at Conftantinople till the 30th. We
went immediately to Pera, where we were re-
ceived by Mr Gcehler, and all lodged in his
houfe ; a piece of kind attention which contri^
buted greatly to my recovery.

Vol. I

G

Chap,

i8

niebuhr's travels

Chap. IIL

Conßanihiopk»

As we were in hade to reach Egypt, we fei
out from Conftantinople immediately after my
recovery. I did not, therefore, fee the capital
of the Ottoman empire at this time : But, on
my return from Arabia, I flaid longer in that
city ; and I fhall fet down here a few obferva-
tions which I then made, efpecially as they
feem to have been overlooked by moil other tra-
vellers.

Conftantinople is undeniably a city of very
coniiderable extent : Yet Kara-Agadfch, Gala--
ta, Pera, Dolma-Bagdjche, &c. are not to be
confidered as fo many fuburbs : They are dif^
tin6l cities, divided by the Gulf from the capi-
tal. Ejiib is the only fuburb belonging to it.
And if we take in only the city of Conftanti-
nople, and this fuburb, it is conftderably infe-
rior in extent to either London or Paris. I dürft
not meafure it geometrically : but, counting my
fteps as I vv^alked round it, I found its circum-
ference to be 2600 paces.

Conftantinople appears larger than it really
is : for, as the houfes rife upon the fides of hills,
they prefent the-mfelves in the form of an am-
phitheatre^

IN ARABIA, l^C.

19

phitheatre, and thus appear t© fpread over a
wide extent of ground. Towards the fea, how-
ever, the city coniifts of new houfes, and is re-
ceiving continual additions. Of late, they have
even encroached upon the harbour and filled up
fome part of it, in order to gain ground for
new buildings.

It would be hard to fix the number of the in-
habitants : It is ahvays fiiated too high, from a
miftake incident to travellers, in eftimating the
population of the cities of the Eaft. They re -
gard thofe cities as equally populous, in propor-
tion to their extent, with thofe of Europe. But
the houfes in the Eaft are low. Perfons in eafy
circumftances, chufe to have a large area behind
their houfes. The palaces of the great, with
theirgardens and feraglios, occupy much ground.

It is not lefs a miftake to judge of the popu*
lation of thofe cities, by the numbers of people
who are conftantly bufy in the ftreets. The
jealoufy of the people of the Eaft lenders them un-
willing to receive perfons with whom they have
bufmefs, in their houfes. On this account, the
artifans Vvork without doors, and fpend the
whole day in open places. The ftreets are full
of joiners, ironmongers, goldfniiths, jewellers,
^c. bufy in the exercife of their feveral trades.
Thoufands of workmen come in the mornings,
work all the day in the ftreets of Conftantiiiopk^
C 2 and

20

NIEBUHIl's TRAVELS

and return in the evening to their houfes in the
cöuntry. If the fame modes of life prevailed in
Europe, and the greater number of the artifans
and workmen about our great cities lived in the
country, thefe would then appear much more po-
pulous than at prefent.

Whatever be its population, Conftantinople
exhibits a delightful profped. Its harbour, one
of the fmell in the world, is always full of vef-
fels. The medley of fuperb mofques and pala..
ces, gardens and trees of all forts, which the ci^
ty difplays, appears remarkably llriking to a
ftranger. But within, the arrangement and ap-
pearance of the city, correfpond not to its fplen-
dour when feen from a dillance. The itreets are
almoil all narrow, dirty, and irregular ; the
houfes are of wood, flight, and ill built, and ap-
pear more like coops for birds than dwellings
for men. Of the palaces built of llone, nothing

to be feen but the high walls that furround
them. In this city, it is equally dangerous to
live in ftone and in wooden houfes. In the for»
nier, one is liable to be buried in ruins, by earth-
quakes; in the latter, to be burnt, by the breaking
out of a fire :— Thefe tvv^o fpecies of awful e-
vents being equally frequent at Conilantinople.

The feraglio of the Grand Signier is a vafr,
but very irregular edifice. I was not permitted
to approach farther into it than the cuter court.
But, vhat I mw was enough to give me a very

IN ARABIA, ^C,

high idea of the reft. I could learn nothing
concerning this gate (porta) of the feraglio, that
might ferve to account for the origin of the ve-
ry, improper denomination of Ottoman Porte^
which is applied in Europe to the Court of the
Grand Signior. Kapu in the Turkifli language,
fignifies both a gate and a palace. But, when
they fpeak of going to the Porte at Conftanti-
nople, the palace of the Grand Vinr is always
meant, where all bufinefs is tranfa6led, as well
what regards the internal regulation of the em-
pire, as the negociations with foreign mini-
Hers.

The city is plentifully fupplicd with Vvater^
from thvtt Beuts or refervoirs, htuated at the dif-
tance of three German league?. A Beut is a re~
fervoir in a valley, into which water is conducl-
ed from the higher grounds circumjacent, and
there confined by a ftrong wall. The water col-
leded in this manner is conveyed into the town
by aqueduds, which have been conftrucled at a
vaft expence, in coufequence of the ground be-
ing fo unequal. It is not to the Greek empe-
rors that the Turks owe thefe noble works.
One of them was raifed by Sult^in Mahfnoud ^
and another upon the north ßde, with the bran-
ches communicating with it, was but lately con-
ilrucled by Sultan Muftapha, who was on the
throne when I was at Conftantinople. As this

water

22

niebuhr's travels

water cannot be equally diftributed through the
whole city, on account of the inequality of the
ground, water-houfes are eilablillied in proper
places, from which it is ferved out to every per-
fou gratis, Oppoiite to the outer gate of the
feraglio, is a houfe fplendidly decorated, where
perfons paid by the public, prefent water to the
paßengers, in vefiels of gilt copper.

This capital of a great empire is almoil de-
fiitute of means of defence. A double wall^
and a ditch nearly filled up, are all its fortifica-
tions. The Turks truil for the fecurity of the
city to four caftles, built upon the two channels
which terminate in the fea of Marmora, and
communicating one of them with the Archipe-
lago, and the other with the Black Sea. Thofe
caftles, known by the name of the Dardanelles,
are but of little moment. But the channels are
fo narrow and crooked, that a fleet which were
to attempt to fail up either, even with the moft
favourable wind, could hardly efcape being funk
by the difcharge of the batteries. The bed
mode of attacking Conftantinople by fea, would
be to block up the mouth of the channels,
and thus deprive the city of the fupplies of pro-
yifions which it receives from the Archipelago.

The city of Galata, fnrrounded with a fi:rong
wall, and rifing upon a fieep height over againfl
Conftantinople, is extremely populous. All the

Europeaii

iN ARABIA, Wc,

1»

European traders, and many of the Eaftern Chrif-
tians live there. Pera is a fuburb to Galata.
In it refide the ambafladors of fuch Chriltiaii
powers as fend public minillers to the Porte,
The deputies which come by turns from Algiers,
Tunis, Tripolis, and Ragufa, lodge at Conftan-
tinople. But, the Turks confider not thefe de-
puties as ambafladors ; nor yet the Kapu Kiajas^
who manage the affairs of the princes of Wala-
chia, and Moldavia,

The Sultan has many houfes of pleafure, both
in the neighbourhood of the capital, änd on the
lliores on the channel of the Black Sea, But
the reigning Sultan goes no where but to Ka?'n
Agadfch, the gloomy, folitary, fituation of whicli
fuits the melancholy complexion of his mind.
He is fuiTering the others to fall into ruins : He
has caufed feveral of them to be pulled dov/n,
and the materials to be employed in building
public baths and mofques.

The Greeks have three and twenty churches
in Conftantinople, and the Armenians three ;
excluflve of thofe which the tv/o nations have in.
the fuburbs. A clergyman refides at Pera, on
vrhom the Pope confers the pompous title cf
Archbiiliop, placing him at the head of a great
many imaginary bifliops. By the laws, no ftrange
feci is fuflered to build houfes of prayer in
the capital. Yet, feveral fedls hold their

meetings

24 ki^ibuhr's travels

meetings therq, without being checked hy Go«
vernment.

Chap. IV,

yyage from Conßantlnople to Alexandria,

AssooN as I was fo much recovered as to be
able to travel, we prepared tofet out. At Alex-
andria we might have ventured to appear in
the European drefs ; as the inhabitants of that
city are accuftomed to fee a great number of
Franks, But, through the reft of Egypt, and
in Arabia, our drefs, confifting of fo many pie-
ces, and fo different from the beautiful fimplicitj
of the eaftern drefs, might have expofed us to
inconveniencies. We therefore refolved to af-
fume the Turkifli drefs ; and having obtained,
by means of Mr Goehler, a paffport from the
Sultan, with letters of recommendation, we cm-
barked on board a veifel belonging to Dolcigno,
We fet fail on the iith of September, and on
the 15th' reached the Dardanelles. All veflels
leaving Conftantinople are vifited by an officer
of the cuftoms, whofe buiinefs is to prevent the
defertion of flaves, and the defrauding of the re-
venue of the eftabliibed dues.

Durhig

IN ARAL 1 A, ^C.

During the ftay, which, in confequence of
this., we were obliged to make before one of the
caftles, called Hum. Kalla^ I was confirmed in
the opinion which I had before taken up of the
inutility of thofe Boghas H{ffar, or Dardanelles.
Every thing about them is negleifled : cannons^
of an enormous bore, charged w^ith ftones, lie
ufelefs on the ground. But I obferved fome-
thing elfe, which w^ould ,ferve to retard a neet
advancing to attack Conltantinople ; the fhal-
lows between that city and the Dardanelles.

On the 17th of September, we again hoifted
our fails, and palling the iiles of the Archipelago,
cad anchor on the 2i{l in the harbour of Rhodes.
We there fell in with the Captain Pacha, with
fome Ihips of war. The iilanders are not fond
of being vifited by the imperial fleets ; both be-
caufe they are expelled to make prefents to the
admiral, and becaufe the failors are infufierably
infolent.

We faw an inftance of the fear which thofs
undifciplined crews every where infpire. When
we landed, we went immediately to the houfe
of the Danifh Conful ; but found his doors
Üiut, to keep out the failors ; and on account of
our Turkiüi drefs, could not obtain admiffion^
till we met with an honefl Capuchin, who knew
us for Europeans, and introduced us. The Con-
ful fent his interpreter to accompany us in fome

Vol, 1. ' C ^ littk

26

NIEBÜHK^S TRAVELS

little excurfions, which curioüty induced tis to
make through the illand,

Th© city of Rhodes ftill exhibits feveral things
to remind the traveller that it was once inhabit,
ed by the knights of the order of St John, who*
upon their expulfion hence by the Turks, were
fixed at Malta. It contains a number of noble
old buildings, fome of which are decorated with
the armorial bearings of fome of the moft ancient
families in Europe, But the palace which be-
longed to the Grand Mafter of the Order, is now
falling into ruins. The Turks negled: the for-=
tifications • although they might know their
importance, from having befieged the illand fo
long before they could make themfelves mafters
of it* But^ notwithftanding this negledl^ Rhodes
is one of the befl fortified places in the Ottoman
empire, and the Turks think it impregnable.

In this city we had the curiofity, for the firft
time, to go to dine in a Turkifii inn. Dinner
was ferved up to us in the open fiireet, upon a
large fiione feat, connected with the kitchen-wall :
the meat was in a coarfe, ill-fafliioned, earthen
plate ; and we eat it without knife or fork. We
had an excellent dinner, and were charged high.
We went thence to drink fome wine at a Jew's
houfe, who valued himfelf on fupplying it $p all
fi:rangers. He had two handfome girls with
Mm, whom he called his daughters, and who

fpoke

IN ARABIA, iSc,

^7

fpoke Italian well. Our entertainmtm at his
houfe coll us much dearer than oilr Turkifli
meal.

There are a great many Greeks in the ifle of
Rhodes, but they are not fufFered to live in the
city. MelTrs Von Haven and Cramer witnelTed
an inftance of the ill treatment which that peo-
ple fuffer from their conquerors. My compa-
nions had gone with fome Greeks to vifit their
biihop, in a village near the city. While they
were with him, fome Turkifh nmficians made
their appearance, and inlifled upon entertaining
the good prelate with mufic, which he had no
delire to hear. Although he refufed their con-
cert, the muficians would be paid ; and did
not retire without infiilting him and his com-
pany.

We fet fail early in the morning of the 2 2d
of September. Hitherto, we had failed near
the coafts, and among iflands ; and it would
confequently have been vain to make obfer-
vations on the courfe we failed. But, in the
open £ea, we had foon an opportunity of remark-
ing the ignorance of the Turks in every thing
relative to navigation. The mailer of our fhip
had compaffes and feveral inflruments, but knew
not what ufe to make of them. They were pro-
bably apart of the plunder which he had taken
in fome Chriftian Ihip : for the Dokignots often

G 2 give

mEBUHR^S TRAVELS

give themfeives out for Algerines, and take Eu-
ropean iliips belonging to powers at peace with
the Porte. In the courfe of our voyage, our
Bolcignot was afraid of being taken himfelf :
for it w^as reported that the Maltefe, or rather
fome privateers, with letters of marque from
fome Italian prince, were at that time fcowring
thofe feas. V/e could not have made a glorious
defence ; our fhip was a heavy failer, and over-
laden, with only a few rufty guns not properly

mounted(DV

Our ikilfül Gaptain held for Alexandria, bj
chance. Luckily for us, a very favourable wind
fprung up, and carried us ftraight into the har-
bour in the day ; otherwife, I know not how we
eould have efcaped the greateft dangers. The
Ihores of Egypt are fo low, that they cannot be
feen from a diftance, and a fliip approaching,
without knov^dng her courfe, can hardly fail
run a-ground.

Our Captain, his fecretary, and two pilots, fpoke
Italian tolerably well. The fecretary had been
at Venice, in different other Italian cities^ and
yen at Vienna, where he received the folio wing in-=
formation. When we afked him. if there were
any Pagans in the Turkifh empire, he replied ;
^' No ; but, in Germany and Hungary there

are : they are called Lutherans, and have no
f notions of God and his prophets." At ano-

IN ARABIA, Wc.

ther time, when the truth of the Chriftian Re-
ligion was mentioned, he rofe in a fury, and ex-
claimed : They who believe in any other di-
" vinity, but God only, are oxen and alTes."
After reafoning fo forcibly, he went off without
waiting to hear any reply.

This zealous fecretary was at the fame time
Imam, or almoner of the veiTeL The Imam's
bufinefs is to dired: the crew in their evening
prayers, which the Mahometans perform regu-
larly after wafliing. The Imam then fpreads
his carpet, kneels with his face tov^^ards Mecca,
and mutters his prayers, proflrating himfelf from
time to tim.e, and crying Allah Akhar, God is
Great. The aifembly repeat his words, and re~
gularly imitate his motions and geftures. One
thing effential, is, to put the thumbs behind the
ears, to mark the perfecl: abftraclion of the mind
from all worldly cares, and the elevation of the
folil towards heaven,

Befide this public evening prayer, the Maho-
metans are directed by law to fay other prayers,
in the courfe of tieir avocations, whenever they
find themfelves moil difpoied to the duty. They
make no difficulty of difplaying their humility
and devotion before fpedators. I was at firil
afraid to diilurb them by my prefence, and at-
tempted to retire ; but molt of them prefTed me
to remain and join them. It is only the info-

lence

/

3^ niebuhr's travels

knee 3f the populace, that hinders Chriftians
from entering mofques, or witneffing their ads
of devotion.

In our fhip, which was too full, the Muful-
man pafTengers were feated on the decks. We
had hired the captain's apartment, with ano-
ther long room adjoining, in order to feparate
ourfelves from the Turks. In a cabin above us
were lodged fome flaves intended for the market,
girls who had received a good education in the
Turkifh mode, arid were deftined for the Haram
©f fome grandee. Mr Forlkal and I, one day,
w^hile w^e were in our chamber, overheard a fe-
male voice, and fet our heads to the window, to
obferve whence it came. Thofe flaves obferving
lis to be ftrangers, cried out, and fcolded us.
But one of them foothed the reft. We held out
to them fruits and fugar ; and they put down
their handkerchiefs to receive what they liked.
As v/e and they had no common language to
converfe in, v/e converfed by ligns. The young-
eft addreifed ^ few words to m.e, feverai differ-
ent times. To knov/ their purport, we alked
the clerk of the fliip, to explain the meaning of a
greatmanyTurkifhv/ordsandphrafes,andatlength
came to underftand, that the girl had warned us
to beware of appealing at the window, except
when the crev/ were at prayers. Thofe females
became at laft fo familiar v/ith us, as to give us

notice

iN ARABIA, ^C.

notice by knocking at the window, whenever
they w^ere alone. This imprudent frolic amuf-
ed us a few moments ; but it might have occa-
ßoned us much ferious trouble ; and w^e came
afterw^ards to underftand, wiiat extreme folly it
is to make the llighteft acquaintance with Turk-
ifli women.

In the evening of the 2,6th of September, we
arrived at Alexandria, and anchored in the great
harbour, which Chriftian fliips are not permit^
ted to do ; they are obliged to anchor in the
fmall harbour, w^hich is very dangerous. The
paßengers w^ent immediately on fliore ; but the
ilaves remained till night, and were carried away
with the utmoil fecrecy.

Eight of the crew had died fcmewhat fudden-
ly in the courfe of the voyage ; v/hich made us
afraid that the plague might be among us. Hap«
pily our fears proved vain; for our phyfician,
who vifited feverai of thofe perfons, w^hile they
■were ill, found no fymptoni of peflilential infec^
tion among them(E).

SECTION

3^

SECTION II.

ÖF EGYPT IN GENERAL.

Ghap. t.

Of the City of Alexandria

Alexandria, or Ecandria, as tlife Turlcs and
Arabs call it, is lituate upon a narrow ifthmus,
between a peninfula and the walls of the ancient
city, and dividing the two harbours. The
ground on which the modern city Hands, feems
to have arifen out of the waters. Although long
fmce diyefled of its ancient fplendour, yet the
remains of the magnificent buildings which it
once poUeiTed,— palaces, temples, and mofques,
■with a plentiful intermixture of palm-trees,—
give this city an afpecl of beauty and dignity 3;
when viewed from the harbour.

Its antiquities, and the remains of its ancient
fplendour, have been defcribed by fo many tra-
vellers, that I fhall barely infert a few remarks
which feem to have efcaped the notice of o-
thers.

According

IN AkABiA,

33

According to the defcriptions which Greek
and Latin v^riters have left of old Alexandria,
that citj inuil have been of vafl extent. But
its ruins, in their prefent ftate, do not mark its
original circumference. The Mahometans ia
general, and efpecially the inhabitants of Alex-*
andria, break down the fined monuments of an-
tiquity, to employ the fragments in the moll
wretched flruclures imaginable. Whenever they
are at any lofs for materials for building, they
fcrupie not to dig up the foundation-ftones of the
ancient walls and palaces. If one happens to
find a beautiful column in his garden, he will
rather make mill-fiones of it, than preferve it.

There fi:ill exifts one noble remain in the city,
v\;hich could neither be broken nor carried a-
way : — The Oheliß of Cleopatra^ a fingle piece
of red granite. Although a part of its bafe be
fi,mkinto the earth, it ftill rifes above ground to
the height of fixty two feet ; the circumference
of the bafe is feven feet and a half. It is infcrib-
ed with feme ancient charaders, engraven an
inch deep; but the modern Egyptians cannot read
them.

Another monument, the famous pillar of Pom--
fey, owes alfo its prefervation to its bulk. It
was ereded in ancient Alexandria, but ftands
at prefent, at the diilance of a quarter of
a league from the New Town. As travellers

Vol. I. D difler

34 NIE.BUHR's TRAVELS'

differ in their accounts of its height, I thought
proper to make a careful meafurement of it.
The column meafured eighty nine feet, exclu-
-live of the bafe, which is five feet high. It con-
lifts of three blocks of red granite. Norden law
its bafe in a fhattered condition ; but it has
been lince repaired, by a perfon of the name of
Mohammed FJchurhatfchu There are fome a-
mong the Turks, lefs hoilile than the generality
to the remains of antiquity(E).

Many catacombs, or fubterranean apartments,
cut in the rocks, are to be feen in the neighbour-
hood of this city. I examined thofe excava-
tions ; there can be no doubt of their having
been ufed chiefly as tombs. There are fome,
however, which I fhould rather fuppofe to have
been granaries. What are called Pompey's
baths are likev/ife grottoes cut in the fame rock :
which is a foft calcareous flone,like that at Mal-
ta, and may be very eaiily wrought.
. New Alexandria owes its prefent Hate to the
Arabs, who inclofed it with a very thick wall,
near fifty feet high. This v/all, which is becom-
ing ruinous, and a fmall fort upon the peninfu-.
la, with a garrifon of fifty foldiers, are all the
means that the city polTeßes for its defence.
Eut its Governor depends on the Facha of Kahi--
ra ; and, of confequence, not on the ariilocracy
of the Beys but on the Grand Signier.

The

IN ARABIA, v5'f. ~ 35

The fineft building in the city is a mofque,
which, in the time of the Greek -empire, was a
church dedicated to St Athanafius. It is ve-
ry large, and ornamented vvith noble columns.
A great number of Greek manufcripts are ftill
faid to be preierved within it. But, as no Chrif-
tian dare examine any thing within a mofque,
I faw only its outfide (f).

The CoUs have a Church dedicated to St

J.

Mark, in w^hich they fhow the tomb of that E-
vangelift ; but it has never been opened, lince
fome priefts of the Roman Communion made an
attempt to carry away the head of the Saint*
1 know not how this tradition is to be reconcil-
ed with that of the Venetians, Vv^ho pretend to
be in polTeflion of this precious relick. The
Catholic priefts, indeed, boaft of having out-
witted the Copts and Mahometans, by decollat-
ing the Saint, packing up his head properly, and
making it pafs for falted pork, that it might not
be infpecled by the Officers of the Cuflom^s. The
Turks have abfolutely forbidden the exporta-
tion of dead bodies or mummies ; fo that it is
no eafy matter, in thefedays, to convey the bodies
of the ancient inhabitants out of Egypt. How-
ever, as the cuftomhoufe of Alexandria is at
prefent under the dire(5tion of Jews, we found
means to procure one mummy, and carry it on
board an Italian vefTel. But wx v>^ere obliged
D % to

36

KiEB^UHR's TRAVELS

to return it ; for all the Italian failors threaten-
ed to leave the ihip, if the Captain did not fend
away that Pagan carcafe, which could not fail
to bring fome mifchief upon them.

Alexandria has fallen by degrees from its
grandeur, population, and v^^ealth. The filling
up of the branch of the Nile, upon which this
city ftands, and v^/hich is now no longer naviga-
ble» is what has chiefly contributed to its de-
cline. It is however cleanfed from time to time,
as it fupplies the city with fpft water, which
could be no where elfe obtained. The magni-
ficent refervoirs of old Alexandria ftill remain ;
they vv^ere intended to contain v^ater for the ufe
cf the city, through the whole year ; which was
received into them at the time of the overflow-
ing of the Nile,

This city might be in a more flourifhing con-
-dition ; did not difadvantages of all forts concur
to deprefs it. Its inhabitants appear to have a
natural genius for com^merce ; were it not check-
ed by the malignant influence of the Govern-
ment. I have no where met with fo many peo-
ple who could fpeak the Europeati languages,
and even thofe of the North of Europe, corred«
ly. The inhabitants of Alexandria are in ufe
to enter as failors on board Chriftian fhips ;
and when they have feen the world, and learned
fome langua^esj they return home, and become

couriers^

IN ARABIA, ^C,

37

«:oiiriers, or interpreters to tlie nations tliey
have ferved. The Mabometans have com-
monly a great averfion at living among Chrif-
tlans, becaafe tliey cannot join in the ceremo.
nies of their religion. The modern Egyp-
tians, being lefs attached than the other MuM-
mans to the peculiarities of their religion and
manners, are fitter for commercial intercourfe
with the Europeans.

The trade of Alexandria is, notwithilanding»
very trifling ; although aim oft all the nations of
Egypt have confuls here. But, as m.oil part of
thofe articles of traffic which are im.ported into
into Egypt, pafs by Alexandria, the cuftoms
afford aconfiderable fum to the Sultan annually.

The Arabic is the ordinary language of the
rative inhabitants, both here and through ail
Egypt. Europeans, unflsiilled in Arabic, fpeak
Italian, which is ftill not a little ufed in thefe
countries (g).

Several tribes of Vv^andering Arabs are conti-
nually roaming about through Lov/ er Egypt ;
and often approach near to Alexandria. The
inhabitants pay fome contributions. But thofe
troops pillage the country, fo that Government
is obliged to fend foldiers to reduce them, or
drive them into the more remote provinces. Dur-
ing our ft ay at Alexandria, fome hundreds of thofe
jobbers encamped within a quarter ^of a league

of

3S niesuhr's travels

©f the city. They diftreßed the hiifbandmenj
and plundered the travellers.

Thofe Arabs, one day, exhibited a fcene
ivhich we could fee from the terrace on the
roof of our houfe. According to their cuftom,
a great number had flipped into the city, one by
one, to avoid frightening the inhabitants. One
of their Schiechs, to try fome powder and ball,
which he had juft bought in afliop, difcharged his
piece againll an oppoiite houfe : The proprietor
complaining, the Schiech treated him as he
would one of his own fubjeds in the defert. The
people of the city gathered round them, and
were preparing to revenge the infult offered to
their fellow-citizen. Some Arabs ran in to de<=
fend their chief ; and the inhabitants gathered
in greate r numberson their lide. The quarrel
produced a combat, which began with a volley
of flones, and ended with the difcharge of guns.
The Arabs, at laft, retired out of the city, leav-
ing feveral of their number dead, and feveral
prifoners. Next day, their camp beiieged the
city, and carried away the cattle of the inhabi-
tants from the pafcures : But, within two days,
peace was reflored, and the booty and prifoners
delivered up on both fides.

The excurfions and rudenefs of thefe Arabians
were not the only circumftances that obliged me
to reprefs my curiofity. The ftupidity and ig-
norance

IN ARABIA, 'iSc.

39

norance of the native inhabitants, who viewed
my meafuring apparatus with diftruft and fear,
were not lefs unfavourable to the fuccefs of my
enquiries and obfervations. A Turkifh merchant,
obferving me diredl my inftrument towards the
city, had the curioiity to look into the giafs,
and was furprifed to fee a tower turned uplide
down. He immediately fpread a report, that I
wi ts come to overturn the city : It was mention-
e i to the Governor ; and my janilTary would no
longer v^alk out with me, when I propofed car-
rying my infcruments with me. Near a village
of the Delta, an honell peafant paid great atten-
tion to my operations, as I was taking different
angles. To fnew him fomething curious, I made
him look through the fame glafs. He was greatly
alarmed te fee the village, to which he belonged,
Handing uplide down. My fervant told him,
that Government were offended with that vil-
village, and had fent me to deftroy it. He in-
fcantly intreated me to wait but a few moments,
that he might have time to fave his wife and his
cow. He then ran in great hafte tov^ards his
houfe ^ and I v/ent again on board my boat.

Chap.

V

iSflEBUHR's TRAV2LS

Chap. II.

^ ''y^-S^ /r^;?? Alexandria io Roßtfa,

The European travellers wlio have vifited E-^
gypt, having generally paffed from Alexandria
to Kahira by Rafchid, and upon the Nile ; we
were tempted to prefer the way by land. But^
the country being infefted by the wandering A-
rabs, as I have already mentioned, we found our
defign to be inipradicable. Mr Forilial, v/hen
travelling the country upon another occafion,
found that our fears h^d not been groundlefs.
He was entirely ilripped by thofe Arabs, who,
with a generofity very uncommon with them,
left him his draw ers.

In winter, the paiTage between Alexandria
and Rafchid is fo dangerous, that many vefiel^
are loft in the Boghas^ or mouth of the Nile..
Although that river was not yet greatly fallen,
our flat boat was feveral times a-ground. The
fl<:ipper excufed thefe accidents, by faying, that
the bed of the river changed frequently in
thefe parts. The num.ber of lhallows upon the
coaft makes the Egyptians very eafy with refpedi:
to the approach of hofcile fleets ; and they are
fuffering the old forts on the banks of the Nile
to fall into ruinsg

After

IN ARABIA, i^C,

4%

After ftruggling with contrary winds, we ar=.
rived, on the 2d of November, at Rofetta, as
it is called in Europe, or Rafchid, in the lan-
guage of the country. This city is of a confme-
rable lize, and ftands upon an eminence, whence
opens a charming proiped: of the courfe of the
Nile, and a part of the Delta. It ferves as a
llaple for the trade between Alexandria and Ca-
iro^. The boats of the latter city proceed no
farther than to Rofetta, where they lade with
goods brought by the veiTels of Alexandria,
which never advance up the river. For this
reafon, the French and Venetian confuls refide
at Rofetta, as well as feveral European mer-
chants, who m^anage the conveyance of goods
|)elonging to their friends.

Near this city are Ihewn what are thought to
be the ruins of the ancient Campus, Laft year,
twenty beautiful marble columns were dug up
there, which have been conveyed to Cairo,
What is more certain, is, that in ancient times,
and probably even fo late as the lixth century,
there was another branch of the Nile, palling
by thofe ruins, and difcharging itfelf into the
fea, at Abukir. But it is now filled up with
fand, which the wind carries about in great
quantities in thefe fandy countries.

The Europeans fpeak much of the politenefs
of the inhabitants of Rofetta. Our ftay in that

Vol. L E city

* Or Kahira*

4'2 NIEBUHR'S TRAVELS

city miglit, therefore, have been more agreeahle
than in any of the other cities of Egypt. But
we had no time to lofe, and were in hafte to
reach Cairo«

Chap. IIL

Voyage from Rofetta to CairCo

We left Rofetta on the 6th of November, and
two days after pafTed Fue, once a comiderable
city, and the ftaple of the trade between Alex-'
andria and Cairo. ' The canal between Alex=
andria and Fue is no longer navigable ; and
Fue entirely deferted. ' The Nile carries fo much'
of the foil from the lands, that it gradually fills
up the canals ; although they are cleanfed from
time to time ; but in a fuperficial enough man-
ner. The earth taken out of the canals forms
thofe mounts which are obferved in the Delta^
änd which appear ftrange in io flat a country as
Egypt.

In this feafon, when the country is all ver-
dant, it is very pleafant to fail up the Nile. A
number of villages are fcattered along each fide
of the river. The houfes arc indeed low, and
built of unburnt bricks ; but, intermixed as they
axe with palm trees^ and pigeon-houfes of a fm«

gular

IM ARABIA, ^ 43

gular form, thej prefent to the eye of the ftran-
■ger, an vincommon and pleanng profpecl. Near
feveral cf thefe villages are feen large heaps of
the ruins of ancient cities.

The navigation of the Nile would be ilill
more agreeable, were it not infefted by pirates-
But, when a great number of people are oil
board of a veflel, they keep on their guard ;
they difcharge a few fnots from time to time, to
fhew, that they are provided with fire arms ;
this keeps the robbers in awe, and renders the
paßage lefs dangerous. There is much m^ore
danger in trufting to a Reis, or m-ailer of a vef-
fel, with whom you are unacquainted^ who may
favour tile robbers, and fhare their plunder^
Whole villages are faid to follov/ this trade ;
and for this reaion the boats never ftop in their
neighbourhood. The inhabitants on the banks
of the Nile are very dexterous in the art of
fwimming, v/hich they frequently exercife in
fcealing from the boats, if not Vv^ith open force^
jet with a degree of addrefs and audacity wor--
thy of the moil noted pick-pockets.

Some Turks related to me a reccn; inflance of the
addrefs and audacity of thofe robbers, or rather
thieves. The fervants of a Pacha, newly arriv«
ed, caught one of them in the ad, feized himr
and brought him before the Pacha. He threat--
ened him with, inflant death but the rogue
E -2 ^ af^ed

44

JSflEBUHR's TR AVE is

aiked leave to exhibit one of his tricks ; faying^
that he hoped, his dexterity might procure his
pardon. He obtained leave. Then coliedling
feveral efFed:s in the tent, he wrapped them up^
coolly, in the mode in which the Egyptians
wrap up their clothes when they are to pafs a
river. After playing fome time with this par-
cel, he put it on his head, threw himfelf into
the Nile, and, before the Turks were fo far re-
covered from their furprife, as to level their
mufquets at him, was fafe on the oppofite bank.

Through all Lower Egypt, I faw no croco-
diles in the two great branches of the Nile up
which I failed. The Egyptians fancy, that in
ihe Mikkias near Cairo, there is a talifman, the
virtue of which hinders thofe amphibious ani-
mals from defcending lower in the river (h).

On the loth of November, we reached Bidak ;
which may be confidered as the Port of Cairo^
as all boats that come by the Nile difcharge
their paffengers and cargoes at this place.

«

IN ARABIA, ^C.

45

Chap. IY.

From Cairo to Damietta^

Having, in advancing to Cairo, examined one
öf the great branches of the Nile, I was defirous
of feeing the other between Cairo and Damiet-
ta. The maps of this part of Kgy^t, called,
both by the ancients, and by the modern Euro-
peans, the Delta, are extremely defedive. I
was defirous of fupplying their defeds, and cor-
reding their errors. My map of the courfe of
the Nile, exhibits my geographical obfervations
upon this part of the country, and may at the
fame time ferve to dired the reader, who chufes
to trace my route with his eye.-

I was prevented by the rains and other eir-
cumflances, from accomplifliing my intention,
till the month of May, next year. But the de-
lay turned out to my advantage. I gained
fome knowledge of the language of the
country, and became more familiar with the
manners of the Eait. Mx Baurenfeind, too, who,

fince

* As this map of the Nile refpeds only a very fmall part
öf thefe travels, and does not fecm equal to that lately publiih-
^ by our countryman, IVIj Bruce, I have not inferted it. T.

4.5 - NIEEUHP.'S TRA;v £L3

iince his arrival at Cairo, had Icarce ever goiie
abroad^ now deterijiined to acconipary nie.

We fet out from Bulak, on the iil of May
1 762 J failing at firfl: very gently down the Nile.
From Cairo to the Delta, the river is very large^
ivith fmall iiles fcattered through it; which,
■when the riter overflows, are often trarifported?
by the impetiiofity of the fcream, from one fitu-
ation to another. This occafions frequent dif-
putes among the villagers on the banks of the
river, Biit^ at this time, the Nile was fo low,
that our boat was feverai times a-ground. W e
might have proceeded v/ith the ftream, in the
calm, during night, had we not been afraid of
pirates. A north wind blows ufaally through
the day, and oppoies the progrefs of boats dov^ii
the river. Violent blaits fometimes arife, and
'bear land and dull: before them, darkening the
air, and endangering the fafety of the boatSj,
which are commonly very indifferent failers.

Ail the villages have, indeed, guards to
watch the approach of pirates, and warn paifen-
gers. But, thole yery guards often join v^ith
' the inhabitants- of the villages, and fit out barks
themfelvey, to plunder thofe whom they Ihould'
proted:.

Slfta, at which we arrived on the 3d of May,,
is a pretty conüderable village, betvvcen Cairo
and Damietta. It is the property of an old

IN ARABIA, l^fC, 47

KifljCir-^Aga, from ConfcanliRople, living at pre-
lent in retirement ar Cairo; wlio keeps here a
Kahicican, or bailiit. It has three mofques, and
?v church belonging to the Copts, the congrega-
tion of which coniifts of three hundred families^
Thofegood people aßied me to fee rieir church : it
is ill-built, dirtVj and hung with cobwebs. Dur-
ing the public vvorüiip, they ftand, leaning on
their ftaves. Tlieir churches are adorned vv'ith
bad paintings. I faw one in which Jefus Chriftj
and the Eleffed Virgin, with feveral of the
Saints, appeared mounted proudly on horfe-
back.

We faw, in the courfe of our voyage, feveral
boats which w^e fufpecled to belong to pirates :
but none of them ventured to attack us. We faw,
lihewife, feveral rafts laden v^ith pots and other
earthen ware from Upper Egypt. Thofe car-
goes of earthen ware are fixed upon very light
planks of the timber of the palm tree, joined
into a raft, the progrefs of v/hicli is directed by
fix or eight men with poles in their h.ai:. lif-
ter felling their cargoes at Damietta, they walk
home. They defend themfel^xs very dexterouf-
ly, wdthilings, againd robbers.

We pafl^ed near by Mapjlira, where St Lewis
was made prifoner. It feemed of the fame fize
as Damietta, A wall has been built upon the
l)ranch of the river near the city, to hinder the

water

48

NIEBUHiR.'s TRAVELS

water from entering the canal that communi-
cates with the lake of Babeira, in a larger quan-
tity than is requilite for watering the fields of
rice, of which a great deal is raifed in this part
of the country.

Below Manfura we met twenty boats laden
with bee-hives, which they were bringing up
to make honey on the banks of the river.

In each boat were two hundred hives, four
houfand in all. The Sandyak of Manfura lay
in the neighbourhood, with a party of forty
Haves and dameftic?, to levy the tax due upon
the bees.

On the 5th of May, we arrived at I>amietta.
This city is Qt leafl as advantageoully fituated,
as Rofetta. The imports from Syria enter at
this port ; and it has alfo a great trade in rice,
of which there is much raifed in the neighbour-
hood. Yet, no Chriftian merchant, or Euro-
pean m.onk, refides here ; although there be in
Damietta, a confiderable number of Maronites
and Armenians, who communicate with the
Church of Rome.

A Conful, and French merchants, once refided
in Damietta. But, the inhabitants obferving
that thofe ftrangers made too free with their
women, rofe up in a fury, and malTacred them
all. Since that period the King of France has

forbiddei^

IN ARABIA,

49

forbidden Iiis fubjeds not only to fettle in this
city J. but even to frequent it. The inhabitants
of Damietta are generally reckoned more un-
friendly to the Chriilians, than any of the other
inhabitants of Egypt. The memory of the Cru-
fades, perhaps, keeps up this inveterate averhon.
But, as we wore the Turkifli drefs, and fpoke
the language of the country tolerably, we had
nothing to fear.

In the neighbourhood of this city are many
i:ice fields^ But towards the fhore, the ground
is covered with. fand,, and confequently barren.
To travel by land from Damietta to Rofetta, it
is only a journey of a day and a half. But the
road is infeiled by robbers, and very dangerous.

As I was fo near the lea, I went to fe^ the
Boghas, two German leagues below Damietta.
This mouth of the Nile is not lefs dangerous to
veßels than that at Rofetta. It w^as formerly
defended by a fort ; but the garrifon have been
frightened aw^ay by apparitions. I \ifited it in
company wath fomxC Mahometans, who faid thei^
prayers very devoutly in that abode of fpirits^
This w^as the only time, I remarked this fpecies
of fuperftition among the Mufulmans ^ appari-
tions are unknown in Arabia.

The lake of Baheira extends from Damietta
to Ghajfa, I fhould have Vv^ifned to fee a lake
fo famous am.ong the ancients, and in the coun-

VoL. I. F try

5©

niebühr's travels

try around whofe banks there ftill are fuch mag-
nificent remains of a number of great cities, t
might have examined, at the fame time, feveral
modern cities, well worthy of the notice of the
curious ; fuch as Demifchli^ where is a manufac-
ture of beautiful ftuffs ; Bilbays ?ind Tafnal, in
which are fome noble mi^onuments. But the in-
habitants of Baheira being poor, and from their
infulated fituation almoft independent, are to be
dreaded equally by land and water. They rob.
all travellers, without diftinftion. I found it
therefore prudent to decline gratifying my cu%
riofity.

A number of the villages on the banks of the
Nile belong to Beys who relide ^t Cairo. The
Copts, who are fecretaries to thofe noblemenj,
might have given me information concerning
the nature of the tenure, if I had been carried
to confult them. In my map of the courfe of
the Nile, I haye inferted the names of all the
places I faw, far and near, ßut, I have had no,
fmall difficulty in writing down thefe names ;
both from the diverfity of di^lecjlis in the coun-
try, and from the indiftindl pronunciation of
thofe from whom I was obliged to alk them.

We left Damietta on the 12th of May ; and
^he wind blew fo^fair, that v/e reached Bulak^
en the I5thc

In ARABIA,

51

Chap. V.

Of the Ancient Cities of Lower Egypt.

Ancient hiftorians and geographers, enume-
rate fuch a multitude of cities in Egypt, that it
feems to be at prefent quite a defart in com pa-
rifon with what it was in the days of antiquity.
New cities have indeed arifen, but thefe are
mere trifles, compared with the number, the ex-
tent, and the magnificence of the ancient. All
the remains of monuments referable to the moil
remote antiquity, befpeak the hand of a nume-
rous and opulent people, who have entirely dif-
appeared.

When, however, we refiedl on the revolutions
which this country has undergone, and upon
the length of time during which it has been
under the dominion of ftrangers ; we can no
longer be furprized at the decline of its wealth
and population. It has been fucceffively fubdu--
ed by the Peril ans, the Greeks, the Romans, the
Arabians, and the Turks : — has enjoyed no in-
terval of tranquillity and freedom 5 but has been
conftantly opprelTed and pillaged by the li§u*
tenants of a diftant lord. Thofe ufurpers and
their fervants having no other views, but to draw
F 2 as

52

NIEBUHR's tRAVlir

as large a revenue as poffible from an opulent
province, fcarce left the people bare means of
fubfiilence. Agriculture wa:s ruined by the mi-
feries of the hufbandmen ; and the cities decay-
ed with its decline. Even at^prefent, the popu-
lation is decreafmg ; and the peafant, although
in a fertile country, miferably poor ; for the e^^-
adlions of Government, and its officers, leave him
nothing to lay out in the improvement and cul-
ture of his lands ; while the cities are falling in-
to ruins, becaufe the fame unhappy reftraints
render it impoffible for the citizens to engage
in any lucrative undertaking.

It would be difficult to afcertain the fituatioii
of the ancient cities. The places in which they
fi:ood are commonly marked by dykes, which
had been raifed to ffielter them from inunda-
tions. Elevations appear here and there over the
plains ; and thofe always contain ruins, which
have been gradually covered over by accumula-
tions from the river, and by fand depoüted by the
v.'inds. The fpots, that either conceal in this
manner, or openly difplay remains of ruined ci-
ties, are aftonifhingly numerous.

The quantity of thefe ruins would be great-
er ilill, if the inhabitants did not carry them,
away piecemeal, and employ them in the con-
llruclion of new buildings. In fearch of ma-
terials for buiidingy they are conilantly turning

over

IN ARABIA, S3

t)ver the ruins ; and they not only dig up the
ground, but even riddle the earth taken out, in
hopes of finding in it gold or gems. A friend
of mine, the lord of a village, near the remains
of an ancient city, made me a prefent of the fi-
gure of a fcaraboeus, of old Egyptian workman -
fhip, which had been found by fome of his pea-
fants, in digging up the earth in this manner.
It is of burnt clay, covered with a thick coating
of varnifli. It is a proof, that thofe people had
moulds with which they impreffed particular fi-
gures on the clay, before putting it into the fire.

The eaitern part of the Delta, which has
been, as yet, but little frequented by the Eu-
ropean travellers, is not lefs rich in antiquities
than that which is better known. The frequen-
cy of robbers, and the loofenefs of the police, in
that remote diftrid, deters thp curious.- Yet
one might vifit thofe parts without danger, by-
accompanying the Copts, of whom great num-
bers go every year, in pilgrimage to an ancient
church, near Geniiana,

Some Arabs mentioned to Mr Forikal the
jQames of feveral of thofe places in which the
Jews anciently dwelt, and of which the ruins
itill fubfift. Thofe names do, indeed, all indi-
cate fomething relative to the fojourning of the
Jews in this country. But as the account reftS
upon vague tradition, and regards a defpifed

people^

§4 NIEBÜHR^S TRAVELS

people, whofe hiftory is little known, we wem
not at the trouble of making farther en-»
quiries.

The Egyptians are riot well pteafed to fee Eu-
ropeans digging among ruins. They imagine^
that we are fearching for treafures. While 1
was meafuring a fine obelifk, which is fliL
llanding entire^ near Mature, the inhabitants
gathered rounds and watched my operations a ;
a fmall diftance. They imagined that 1 had
feme fecret to overturn the pillar, and intended
to have their lhare of the riches which they fup-
pofed I was to find under its bafe* When they
faw that I did not fucceed, according to their
ideas, they fufFered me to walk off, without in-
fulting me. One might, however, avoid giv-
ing umbrage to the people, by obtaining leave
from the Lord of the village to have thofe fpots
examined, that contain ruins, and employing the
jpeafants in the work.

Different travellers have been at pains to de^
fcribe the äntiquities of the cities of ancient
Egypt ; and various men of letters have written
dilfertations upon thofe defcriptions, and com-
pared them with what is related by the Latin
and Greek authors, in order to difcover to what
ancient city each particular pile of ruins per-
tained. Such inveftigations may be curious^
but, confidering their uncertainty, I would nei»

ther

3N ARABIA, Wc. 55

ther defcend to any fuch details myfeif, nor
quote what has been advanced in this way hy
others.

€hap. VL

Of the City of Cairo,

In the courfe of the eleven laft centuries, finc^
the conqueft of Egypt by the Arabians, many
changes have taken place in the neighbourhood
of Cairo, or, as it is called in the language of
the country, Kahira, Thofe conquerors demo-
lifhed or neglected the cities which they found
fubfifting, and built others.

At their entrance into this country, they found,
a city on the banks of the Nile, which their
writers call Mafr, and which no doubt was th^
Egyptian Babylon of the Greek authors. They
became mafters of it by the treafon of Mokati-
has. In their Muffulman zeal, abhorring to
dwell in the fame city with Chriftians, they fet-
tled, by degrees, in the place where their ge-»
neral had pitched his camp, and formed a city
which they called Foßat.

This city, when it became the capital of Er
gypt, was alfo called Mafr ; a name which it
lias retained even line e Cairo, priginally only a

fuburbj

5«

NISBUH?.'S TRAVELS

fiiburb, has fupplanted it in the chara^er of
capital. Foftat declined,., as Cairo, which was
founded in the 358 year of the Hegira, by the
general of a Fatimite Caliph I., advanced. The
remains of Foilat are known at prefent by the
name of Mafr-el-atik, old Mafr. The famous
Salah ed din embellilhed the rifing city of Cairo,
and inclofed it with walls.

Cairo, in its turn, came to receive the name of
Mafr. The Europeans call it Cairo, or Grand
Cairo. Although fo modern, it is truly very
large. It extends, for an hour's walk, to the
foot of the mountain Mokattam^ at the diftance
of half a league from the banks of the Nile.
From the top of that hill, on which Hands the
caftle, the whole city is feen. On the other fides
it is furrounded with hillocks formed by the ac«
cumulation of the dirt, conveyed out of the city.
They are already fo high, that the tops of the
buildings in the city can fcarce be feen over
them, from the banks of the Nile.

Cairo, although a very great city, is not ,
fo populous as the cities in Europe, of the
fame extent. The capital of Egypt contains
large ponds, w^hich, when full, have the appear-
ance even of lakes. The mofques occupy large
areas. In a quarter which I had occalion to
examine particularly, I found the large ftreets
divided by a large fpace of ground, laid out in

gardens

IN APvABIA, t^r.

57

gardens, and otherwife. I am induced to tbJnk^
that, in the other quarters, are large unoccupied
fpaces ot the fame fort. The houfes in Cairo
are not fo high as in the cities of Europe. In
^omc parts, they coniift only of one ftory, and
are built of bricks that have been dried in the
fun(j),

I have obferved, that travellers ahvays err in
eftimating the population of the cities of the
Eail : and I may add, that the arrangement of
the ftreets of Cairo niuft make that city appear
larger than it really is. In feveral quarters there
are pretty long wynds, which terminate not in
any principal ftreet ; fo that thofe who live
at the bottom of them, can converfe from
the back parts of their houfes, yet mufl: walk a
quarter of a league before they can meet. Such
wynds or fanes are, for the moil part, inhabited by
artifans, who go out to work m more frequented
ftreets, and leasee their wives and children at
home. From^ this circumftance, thefe are fo fur-
prifed to fee a paifenger, that they naturally fu]3-
pofe, that you have loft your way, and tell you,
that you cannot pafs there. All the intercourfe
is therefore through the principal ftreets ; and
thefe are very narrow ; fo that, being continu-
ally crowded, they will naturally occafion a
ftranger to think the city much more populous
than it really is.

Vol. I. G The

58

I^IEBUKH'S TRAVELS

The caftle Handing upon a fteep, infulated
rock, between the city and mount Mokattam,
was probably ere6led in the days of the Greeks,
and might form a part of the Egyptian Babylon,
It is at prefent parted into three divißons,
which are occupied by the Pacha, the Janiffaries,
and the Aflabs. The palace of the Pacha is
falling into ruins, and is unworthy of being the
dwelling of the Governor of a great province.
But the Turkifh Pachas are in general ill lodg-
ed. They know all, that they are not to be
long in power ; and none cares for making re--
parations to accommodate his fuccelTor.

The quarter of the janilTaries is furrounded
with ftrong walls which are flanked with tow-
ers, and has more the appearance of a fortrefs.
Thofe foldiers accordingly avail themfelves of
their fituation in the revolutions which happen
fo frequently in Egypt. That body, although
paid by the Sultan, are not much attached to
their fovereign. Their principal officers have
been flaves to the more refpedable inhabitants
of Cairo, and are ftill more attached to their old
mailers than to the Sovereign of the Turkifh
empire. When the Egyptians depofe a Pacha,
the janiffaries are commonly ready to drive him
out of the palace, if he fails to fet off at the day
fixed to him, by the Beys. But the Arabs are

in

IN ARABIA,

59

in little fear of the janiflaries, and rob with con-
fidence, clofe by their quarters.

Within this caftle are two monuments, which
fome, both Mahometans and Chriftians, fanci-
fully afcribe to a patriarch ; the fountain, and
palace of Jofeph. The fountain is indeed deep,
and cut in the rock ; but nothing extraordinary,
when it is conüdered, that the rock is a very foft
calcareous ftone. It is not at all comparable to
the labours of the ancient Indians, who have
cut whole pagodas in the very hardeil rocks.

The pretended palace of Jofeph, is a large
building, which ftiil retains fome precious re-
mains of its ancient magnificence. In the apart-
ment in which a manufadlure of cloth is at pre-
fent carried on, the walls are adorned with figures
of beautiful Mofaic work, compofed of mother
of pearl, precious ilones, and coloured glafs.
The ceiling of another chamber contains fine
paintings ; in fome places, the names of moil of
the ancient monarchs of Egypt are engraven.
The caliphs of Egypt appear to have inhabited
this palace ; and it is furprifing, that the Pa-
cha does not choofe to lodge in it. From a bal-
cony in this building, a perfon has a delightful
view of Cairo, Bulak, Geeß, and a vafi trad of
country extending all the way to the pyramids.

That valuable ftufF of which the Sultan makes
an annual prefent to the fanduary of Mecca, is
G- 2 fabricated

6o

I>IIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

fabricated in this palace. I alked the diredor
of the manufadure, from what Joleph he fuppof-
ed the fountain and palace to have taken their
denomination ? he anfwered from Salah ed di?t,
whofe proper name was Jofeph. This account
leems the more probable, as Cairo owes its oth-
er embelliüiments to that Caliph. Near this pa-
lace are thirty large and beautiful columns of
red granite ftill Handing, but unroofed, and de-
graded by having a parcel of wretched huts
built againft them. In a path cut in the rock^
and leading from one part of the caille to ano-
ther, I v/as furprifed to obferve an eagle with a
double head, engraven upon a large ftone, and
Hill perfeäily difcernible.

The fuburb El Karafe^ at prefent but thinly
inhabited^ contains a number of fuperb mofques?
which are partly fallen into ruins, with feveral
tombs of the ancient fovereigns of this country.
The Mahometan women repair in crowds to
this place, on pretence of performing their devo-
tions, but, in reality, for the pleafure of walk-
ing abroad. On the other fide of the caftie^
there is alfo a great number of ruinous mofques,
and houfes of prayer, built over the tombs of
rich Mahometans, and forming a ilreet three
quarters of a German league in length. From
the aftoniHiing number of thefe mofques and
koufes, it fliould feem that the ancient fove-

vereigns

IN ARABIA, i^C,

6t

reigns of Egypt were not lefs difpofed than the
Sultans of Conftantinople, to expend money up-
on pious foundations.

Among this multitude of mofques are feme
diftinguifhed by beauty and folidity of ftrud:ure«
One of thofe, although the feat of an academy,
was fo ftrongly and fo advantageouily fituated^
that, in particular infurredions, batteries ufed
to be raifed in it, and diredled againft the
caftle ; for which reafon the gates have been
built up. Thofe mofques have little ornament
within : The pavement is covered with mats,
feldom with carpets. Nothing appears on the
walls, but a few palfages of the Koran, written
in golden letters, and a profulion of bad lamps,
fufpended horizontally, and intermixed with of-
trich eggs, and fome other trifling curiolities.

The Mouritan is a large hofpital for the lick
and mad. Thofe of the former clafs are not nume-
rous, conüdering the extent of the city. The
fick were formerly provided witli every thing that
could tend to foothe their diflrefs, not excepting
even mufic. From the infufhciency of the funds
to fupply fo great an expence, the mufic had been
retrenched, but has been fince reftored by the
charity of a private perfon. The defcriptiona
of Cairo fay much of the large revenues belong-
ing to the hofpital, and to many of the mofques.
But the fame thing happens here as in other

places :

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

places : The adminiftrators of the revenues eil«
rich themfelves at the expence of the founda-
tions ; fo that new bequefts from the pious are
from time to time neceffarj, to prevent them
from falling into utter decay.

In this city are a great many kans or oquals^
as they are called in Egypt. Thefe are large
and ftrong buildings, confifting of ware-rooms
and fmall chambers for the ufe of foreign mer-
chants. Here, as well as at Conftantinople, are
feveral elegant lioufes, where frefli water is dif-»
tributed gratis to paffengers*

The public baths are very numerous. AL
though externally very plain buildings, they have
liandfome apartments within, paved with marble,
and ornamented in the faihion of the country.
Several fervants attend, each of whom has his
particular taik, in waiting upon and affifting
thofe who come to bathe. Strangers are furprif-
ed when thofe bathers begin to handle them,
and afraid of having their limbs diflocated. But
after being a little accuftomed to the ceremony,
they find it fufficiently agreeable.

The birkets^ or ponds, formed by the waters
of the Nile, which, when it rifes, fills the hol-
lows, are very common about and in Cairo.
Thofe ponds, or rather marflies^ become mea-
dows, every year after the water is evaporated.

This

IN ARABIA, "^C.

63

This viciffitude renders them very agreeable :
And the moll confiderable perfons in the coun-
try live upon their banks. The palaces of the
great are no ornaments to the city ; for nothing
about them can be feen but the high v.^alls that
furround them.

Chap. VII.

Of the Country immediately around Cairo,

In the neighbourhood of Cairo are feveral re--
markable places : Among others, the three viL
lages of Bulak, Foftat, Geefli ; v/hich are all
fo near, that they may be reckoned fuburbs
to it.

Bulak, which was undoubtedly the Latopolh
of the ancient Greeks, is at prefent ^a very con-
fiderable town, and the port of Cairo. All
goods from Damietta and Rofetta, and all ex-
ports from Egypt by the Mediterranean, pafs
this way. For this reafon, a large cullom-houfe
is eftablifhed here ; and a vaft bazar, or cover-
ed market-place, called Kijfarie, Here are al-
fo magazines of rice, fait, nitre, and of various
productions of Upper Egypt. Here is alfo a
houfe belonging to the Sultan, in which is kept
the corn that he fends annually to Mecca and
Medina.

Toßaty

64

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

Foßat^ or Mafr-el-atik, although greatly decay»
ed, mayftill be confidered as a town of the middle
lize. It has a cuftom-houfe, where the duties on
goods from Upper Egypt are paid. In a large
fquare,inclofed with a wall, Government ftoreup,
in the open air, a confiderable quantity of grain,
every year. Some authors fpeak of this as a
granary built by the patriarch Jofeph. But the
Ivall is plainly of a later date than even the
conqueft of Egypt by the Arabians.

The old citadel of Mafr is inhabited, at pre-
fent, by none but Chriftians. In it are to bq
£een fever al chvirches of the Greeks and Copts^
with a convent of Monks, of the latter nation
A grotto, under one of the Coptic churches, is
regarded with high veneration, becaufe it is
fuppofed to have been the retreat of the Holy
Family,, when they fled into Egypt. The Greeks,
have a church, famous for a miracle of a Angular
mature : Fools recover their wits, upon being
"bound to a certain pillar of it.

Between this city and Cairo is an aquedu£t,.
which was conilru61ed in the beginning of the
fixth century, by Sultan Gari, and conveys wa-
ter into the neighbourhood of the caftle. Near
the canal is a convent of Dervifes, celebrated for
the elegance of the building, and the opulence
of the foundation ; and near this convent are
large fquares, in which the principal inhabitants

of

IN ARABIA, %SC, 65

bi Cairo, amufe tliemfelves with military exer=
cifes.

The fmall village of Geejl? ftands on the fouth-^
ern bank of the Nile, oppofite to Mafr-el-atik»
Its origin is unknown. The heights around it,
which have no doubt been raifed by the accu-
mulation of the dirt from the city, feem to be=
fpeak its antiquity. I found nothing remarkable
about it, except fome country-houfes belonging
to rich inhabitants of Cairo, and fome manu-
factories (k),

Matare, a town, or rather village, about two
leagues from the capital, is feated nearly on the
ruins of the ancient Heliopolis. It is, hov/everp
more famous among the Chriftians for a fyco-
more, whofe trunk is faid to have afforded a fhel-
ter to the Holy Family, in their flight. This
fycomore fhould feem to have the power of re~
newing itfelf : for, of the crowds of fiiperftitious
perfons who viiit it, each ufuaily cuts off, and
carries away a piece. This village w^as former-
ly famous for the cultivation of thofe trees which
afford Egyptian balfam. But none of them is
now to be feen here ; the laft died in the begin-
ning of the feventeenth century. The Turks are
not a people to reilore fo valuable a plant,

^ Four leagues eaftward from Cairo is Birket^
d-Hadgi, or the pilgrim's pool, a pretty confi-
derable lake, which receives its water from the

Vol, I, H Nile,

KIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

'c. Upon its baalis are feveral villages, an J
yood many ruinous country -houfes. There

'tiling to render this place remarkable, ex-
t at the time of the fetting out of the cara-
1 for Mecca, when the pilgrims encamp near
for a few days ; as they do alfo upon their
urn. On the 20th of May 1762, two days
:re the departure of the caravan, I had the
; jfity to vifit this ca,mp, but found little a-
t it worth viewing, I faw indeed a very

jlegant tents ; but every thing elfe üiock-
;/ nally^ diforderiy,. and paltry.

Chap. VIIL

F ihs. MihMaSy or Nilometer, and of the rijing of tldH
Nile,

I 77EEN Mafr-el~atik and Geefh^ in the mid-

c: the Nile is the iile of Rodda, which for-
. communicated with thofe two cities

: vo bridges of boats, that no longer fubiift.
ilourifhing days of FoRat, the illand was

.red with gardens and villas. But lince
. 0 has become the capital of Egypt, Mafr-
. ; Bulak, and even Birket-el-Hadgi, are
. :....rred as fituations for gardens and villas.

This

This iiland fliews, at prefent, nothing remr.iv
aoie, except, that on its fouthern extremity
fcands a wall, which has been built to breaii
force of the current. Upon this extrem ir
ilands alfo a moique, in v, hich is the famci.
Mikkias or Nilometer. This is well knowr 1
be a bafon having a communication with tl
Nile, on the middle of which Hands a ccli::. ■
that ferves to indicate the height of the wa- :
of the river. Norden has given a draught ci j
liner than the original, which is mouldering ;
away ; for the Turks will not lay out the fn:
left expence, even upon the moü neceimy :^
pairs.

I know not whether any perfon has yet i:r \
fured the breadth of the Nile. By a geomc : :,
cal operation, I found it to be 2946 feet. Vr > . :
out knowmg this meafure, one can form no . .
of the aftoniihing mais of water which this 1. , .
carries down, when in its full height^

The Nile, it is well known, begins eve: ;' ^ 1
to rife about the middle of June, and cont . 1 ;
riling 40 or 50 days ; it then falls, by de v
till, in the end of May, next year, it is : .
lovv^eft. The caufes of its rife are now : ,
known. During the hot months of the v-:
rain falls every day in Hahoefch or Ab}^^: '
and all that rain-water is collecied into the '

niebuhr's travels

which, from its entrance into Egypt, till it reach-
es the Tea, runs through a wide vale.

It does not rife alike high through all Egypt«
I durit not mtafure it near the Mikkias, but,
from obicr nations made at Geefh, I faw, that at
Cairo the full 'height is at leaft 24 feet above its
ordinary level. At Rofetta and Damietta it is
only four feet. But this vaft difference is not
furprifirig ; for, at Cairo, the Nile being confin-
ed to one channel, between high banks, mull
hecelTarily rife to a much greater height than
nearer the fea, where it is divided into two
ftreams,' after runnlug over fo much barren
ground, and forming fo many lakes. The branch
upon \^'hich Rofetta ftands, is only 650 feet
broad ; and that by Daniietta, not more than

Affoon as the Nile begins to rife, all the ca-
nals intended to convey the waters through the
country, are fhut and cleanfed. They are kept
fhut, however, till the river rife to a certain
height which is indicated by the Nilometer in
the iile of Rodda, A Shech attends for this pur-
pofe, by the Mikkias, and gives notice, from
time to time, of the riling of the river, to a
number of poor perfons who wait at Foltat for
the information, and run inftantly to publifh
it in the ftreets of Cairo. They return
Very day to Follatj at a certain hour, to learn
' ~^ - ■ from

IN ARABIA, 6f

from the Schech, how many inches the river
iias rifen : And its rife is every day proclaimed ir^
public, till it reaches the fixed height, at which
the canals are permitted to be unlocked ; the
nfual tax is then paid for the waters, to the Sul-
tan, and a good year expedled.

The canal at Cairo is firft opened, and then,
fucceffively, all the other great canals down to
the fea. The inhabitants of no particular dif-
tridl dare drav/ off any part of the water of th^
Nile, although it have rifen to the height that beft
fuits the inlands ; for this would injure the high-
er grounds ; and therefore every body mufl
wait till the public order be given out. There
are laws in -Egypt, which are ftridly obferved,
and which determine the diftribution of the wa-
ters, and the time when the large and xmall ca-
nals are to be opened.

Between the dyke of the canal of Cairo, and
the Nile, a pillar of earth is raifed, nearly of
the height to which the waters of the rivers are
expedled to rife. This pillar is called j4nes, or
the bride, and ferves as a fcrt of Nilometer, for
the ufe of the common people. When the wa-
ters enter the canal, this bi'ide is carried away
by the current. A like cuftom, which prevail-
ed among the ancient Egyptians, has fubjeded .
them to the imputation of facrificing every year
a virgin to the Nile,

The

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

The canal is ufually opened with great fefti-.
vity, and a concourfe of people. But when we
were in Cairo, it was opened without anj parade;
for it had been imperfedly cleanfed, and the
water did not enter it readily. As this cere-
mony has been defcribed by fo many authors^
I fliall not trouble the reader with any account
of it.

A piece of fuperftition now prevails in Egypt,
of which hiftory makes no mention before the
conqueilof the country by the Arabs. Certain wo-
men, both Chriftian and Mahometan, pretend to
foretell what height the Nile will rifeto, by means
of certain rites which they prad:ife. Thefe de-
pend upon the popular notion, that, on the night
of the 17th or i8th of June, there falls, in Hab-»
befch, a drop, in Arabic nokta, into the Nile, which
caufes its waters to ferment and fwell. To dif»
cover the quantity of this drop, and the force
with which it falls, and, of confequence, the
height of the river, and the fertility of the lands
for the year ; thofe women put a bit of pafte on
the roof of the houfe, on the night on which the
drop is imagined to fall ; and they draw their
prediction from the greater or fmaller increafe
of weight, which it receives. It is eafy to ex-
plain this experiment : for, in the feafon in
which it is performed, there fall regularly hea-
vy dews throughout Egypt. A fenfible and

learned

In AR A]^ I A, t^C,

ji

learned Mahometan, who looked upon the pre-
di6tions as fooleries, told me, that this vulgar
error arofe, like many others, from an ambi-
guous expreflion ; Nokta lignifying in Arabic,
both a drop and the Wne of the furl's entering
the ßgn of Cancer ; at which feafon, the great
rains fall in Abyffinia, which occafion the fwel-
ling of the Nile.

I have remarked, that the canal of Cairo is
cleanfed every year ; and it then ferves as a
llreet. But it can never be long ufed as a ftreet ;
for it is never cleanfed, till the dyke be ready
to be cut down. While the water is running
in this canal, the houfes about it are very agree-
able ; but, through the reft of the year, it is 9
very uncomfortable neighbourhood. It is al-
ways exceedingly filthy. The infufferable
fmell, and noxious putridity, which itdiffufes all
around, infed the air, and produce epidemic
diftempers.

No water fit for drinking is to be had at Cai-
ro, unlefs out of the Nile ; from wliich it is
brought every day mto the city, in ficins, ^ipon
alfes and camels. Under feveral mofques, are
large refervoirs, in which water is preferved for
the ufe of the public, during the fwell of the
Nile ; for the river is then muddy, and its wa-
ter thought unwholefome. Indeed the water of
the Nile is always fomev/hat muddy \ but, by

rubbings

klfiUHR's TRAVELS

rubbing with bitter almonds, prepared in a par-^
ticular manner, the earthen jars in which it is
kept, this water is rendered clear, light, and
falutary. The ufe of this water is generalljr
thought to be the occafion of a cutaneous erup-
tion to which the inhabitants of Cairo are fub-
jed:, at a certain feafon in the year. It is trou-
blefome, but does not injure the health.

SECTION

!N ARABIA^

73

SECTION III.

OF THE GOVERNMENT, ARTS, AND TRADE OF
EGYPT.

Chap. Ic

Of the Nature of the Egyptian GovernmenL

1 HE Turks, as is generally knoivn, conquered
Egypt in the beginning of the lixteenth cen-
tury, from the Mammelukes ; ia mercenary mili-
tia, who had, for fome centuries, ufurped the
Government of this province, which Xhtj admi-
liiftered by an ele6live chief, with the title of
Sultan, This fpecies of Government feems ftill
to fublift, juft as much as before the Turkifh
conqueft ; and, with all their defpotic pride, they
have never attempted to change it,

A form of Government that has prevailed fo
long, and which ahaughty, and powerful conque -
ror durll not abolifh^ muft have, within itielfy
fome principle of ft ability, to maintain it againft
revolution. .*It might deferve to be better
tuown, and explained by fome intelligent per-.

¥0L, L I fOD^

n

niebühr's travels

fon, who fnouid ftudy it in a long rendence in
the country. A traveller like me, who has had
only a traniient view of thefe objects, can nei-
ther difcern, nor defcribe all the parts of fo
^:ompiex a machine.

I have learned enough, however, to enable
Hie to diftinguifh, that this Government is at
prefent an ariflocracy, partly civil, partly mili-
tary, but chiefly military. Under the protec-
tion, rather than the autharity of the Sultan of
Conftantinople, a divan, or fovereign counfel,
exercifes the fupreme authority, both executive
and legiflative. Even the revenue of the Sul-
tan is rather a tribute paid to a protedlor, than
a tax levied by a fovereign. It is, belides, fo
moderate, that the necelTary expences of Govern-
ment confume it entirely in Egypt ; and the
trunk, in which it is pompoufly conveyed to
Conftantinople, generally arrives there empty.

Such a Government muft be frequently dif-
turbed by fa6lious infurredlions. Cairo is con-
Itantly convulfed by cruel difleniion ; parties are
continually j -erring ; and the great retain troops
to decide their differences by force of arms.

The mutual jealouiies of the chiefs, feemtobe
the only caufes which ftill preferve to the Porte
the lhadow of authority over this country, —
The members of the arittocracy are all afraid of
lofing their inüuence under a reiiding fovereign ;

and

IN ARABIA, y$

and therefore agree in oppoiing the elevation
of any of their own body to the fupreme dignity
In our own days, Ali-Bey has found how diffi-
cult it is to afcend the throne of Egypt, or to
maintain one's felf upon it (m).

Chap. IL

Of the Grand Signior^s Officers,

The Grand Signior fends always a Pacha of
three tails, to exercife his precarious authority
in Egypt, in the characler of Governor. But
the Pacha of Cairo, far from enjoying the fanie
authority as the other Pachas ' of the Turkifh
empire, is entirely dependent on the Egyptian
divan. That arillocratical body, regarding the
Pacha as their tyrant, frequently depofe him, unlefs
he have the addrefs to fuppcrt himfelf by pro-
voking and fomenting the contentions of the
different parties, favouring each by turns.

During my ftay at Alexandria, the inhabi-
tants of Cairo expelled their Pacha. Mufliapha
Pacha was at the fame time in Egypt, v/ho had
been already twice Grand Vizir, and rcfe, after-
wards, a third tim.e to that dirnlty Having
been fent by the Sultan to Bjidda^ he had re-
I a maine^

1^

NI5,BUHR's TRAVEX.S

mained in Egypt, on pretence of iilnefs. Tiie
inhabitants chofe Muftapha their Pacha, and
found means to oblige the Sultan, however dif-
fatisfied with the eledors, and the perfon whom
they had elecled, to confirm their choice. But
the new Pacha kept his place only feven months,
and was then obliged to yield it to another from
Conftantinople. The latter died fuddenly, up-
on the arrival of a Kapigi-Bachi, who was fent
aft^r him by the Sultan. Thus, in the Ihort
time while I was in Egypt, three Governors fuc-
ceeded each other rapidly in the Government
of that province.

The chief Cadi of Cairo is fucceeded almoll
every year, by another from Conftantinople, who
is named by the Sultan, on the recommendation
of the Mufti.

Except thefe two, tho Sultan appoints no
other officers in Egypt, unlefs indiredly. It is
true, he feems alfo to difpofe of the poll of Bey^
to which he nominates ; but the Egyptians pro-
pofe the candidates ; and he dares not rejedl
them; his nomination is therefore mere cere-

IK ARABIA, i^a»

Chap. III.

Of the Divan and the Beys,

The Divan, or fupreme Council, confifls of twen-=
ty four Beys, fourteen of the chief officers of the
t:roops, and a number of people of the law, or
yatlier of the churchi.

The Beys are governors of different diflrids.
The offices of Grand Treafurer and Governor of
Cairo, are likewife held by members of this
body. They entertain guards and bodies of fol-
diers, as well for their perfonal fecurity, as to
enforce obedience through the diflriä:s under
their Government. The name of Bey, ov Beg,
denotes a powerful lord, and may perhaps be
confidered as nearly fynonymous with prince.
Their number is never complete ; v.'hen I was
in Egypt, there were,inftead of twenty four, only
eighteen. The revenues of the vacant places,
"were probably fhared aniong the reft that were
filled up.

Like the Mammelukes, who, having been all
flaves, chofe their chiefs only from among thofe
who had rifen to honour through the path of fer-
vitude, the prefent Beys have been almoil all
flaves, bought for fifty or not more than an hundred
fequins. They are often Chriftian children, from
Georgia or Mingrelia. But thefe places have, fo:^-

fome

7^

NJEBÜHR^S TRAVELS

fome time, been conferred likewife on free mi
high-born Mahometans. Of the eighteen Beys
who were in office when I was in Egypt, only
five were of this latter charader ; the other thir-
teen v/erc defcended from Chriftian parents, and
had been flaves in their youth.

Our furprize at the elevation of fo many flaves
will ceafe, when we attend more particularly
to the manners of the people of the Eaft. The
Mahometans, in general, and efpecially the
Egyptians, treat their flaves with great kind-
nefs. The Beys, and the principal inhabitants
of Cairo, buy many Chrifl:ian children, whom
they educate with the fame care as their owi^
children, in every thing neceflary to accomplifli
the character of a Mahometan lord. When
their education is finiflied, they procure them
employments in the army, Thofe emancipated
flaves retain the moft lively affedion to the ge-
nerous mailers to whom they owe their fortune^
and even their moral exifl:ence. By this mea is
it often happens, that a mailer, wben he finds
any of his flaves to poflefs extraordinary talents^
and tried fidelity, fpares no pains or expence to
raife him to a more confiderable employment
than that which he occupies himfelf. Thus the
mafter raifes his credit and influence in the ad»
miniftration^ by introducing into jt his own crea-
tures,

ft

IN ARABIA, ^C. ^1

It may not be improper to mention here fome
remarkable inftances of this generofity of mat
ters to their flaves. I knew a rich merchant^
who kept only one fervant, and who ufed to
ride into the city no better mounted than upon
an afs. He had procured to feverai of his flaves
diftinguiiiied places in the Egyptian army : And
thofe o3icers, although now greatly his fuperiors^
had all imaginable refped: for their old mailer,
and were upon all cocafions ready to defend and
proted him.

One Hafflin Kiaja, who was content himfelf
with the employment of Kiaja, or lieutenant
to the Aga of the janiflaries, had advanced feve-
rax hi^ flaves to the highefi; offices. His fon
Abaerachman Kiaja^ although, like him, only
lieutenant to the Aga of the janiflaries, was all-
powerful in Egypt when I was there ; not on
account of his employment, for it was inconfi-
derabje, but becaufe many of the lords of the
country owed their fortunes to his family. He
was, befldes, very rich ; and, while he com-»
manded refpedt, by the number of troops which
he maintained, gained the love of the people and
of the clergy by the liberality of his pious mor»
tifications.

But the mofl; extraordinary infl:ance is that of
Ibrahim Kiaja, who was never in any higher
employment than the lieutenant to the Aga of

the

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

the janiffaries. This man had been flave id
Othman Kiaja, who had been himXelf flave to
Hajfan Kiaja, mentioned above. Ibrafmn, by
means of his Haves, for whom he had obtained
the firfl employments, acquired fo great credit^
that he for a long time governed Egypt. The
liumber of his creatures is a proof of his influ-
ence. In my time, of the eighteen Beys, eight
had been his flaves ; and of the feven Agas of
the great body of the militia, five were out of
his family, and owed to him their liberty and
fortunes. Many, alfo, of his old fiaves occupi-
ed coniiderable pofts in the army (n).

Among the Beys who held the government of"
Egypt, when I was in that country, was one^
who, eveii theii, had begun to diftinguifh him-
felf, and has fince made a great figure. This'
was the famous Ali Bej^ who had been a Have
to Ibraham Kiaja, and had rifen to the em-
ployment of Schiech- el-helled, or governor of the
capital. After my departure, he was banifhed
to Gbajfa, But he returned in the year 1768,
put to death four Beys, and compelled the Pa-
cha to forbid four others to return, who had
faved themfelves by flight. Becoming thus all-
powerful, he afpired to the fovereignty of E-
gypt. With this view he entered into an al-
liance with Schiech Daher, and was«, fome time

after

IN ARABIA, Uc,

81

after, llain in a battle with Bey ^ba Baah, who
had formerly been one of his adherents (o).

Next after the Beys, in power and dignity
are the principal officers of the forces. Of thefe^
the feven Agas of the feven corps of the militia,
have feats in the divan ; as well as their feven
Kiajas or lieutenants, for the year when they
are in office. The janiflaries have the greateil
privileges, but are not the firll in rank among
thofe corps.

I could not learn what civil employments con-
fer a right to a feat in the divan^ I cannot
therefore enumerate the priefts or men of the
law v/ho have feats in it.

The members of this arifbocracy are extreme-
ly haughty and infolent. In Cairo no Chriftian
or Jev/ may appear on horfeback. They ride
only alTes, and mufl alight, upon meeting even
the moft inconiiderable Egyptian lord. Thofe
lords appear ahvays on horfeback, w^ith an info-
lent fervant before them, who, with a great
ftafF in his hand, warns the riders on affes to
fhew the due marks of refpeft to his mailer^
crying out enfä, get down. If the infidel fail
to give inllant obedience, he is beaten till he a-
light. A French merchant was drubbed on an
occaiion of this kind. Our phyfician, too, w-as
infulted for being too tardy in alighting from
his afs. For this reafon, no European dares walk

Vol. L K- the

82

niebuhr's travels

the ftreets without having a- perfon to attend
him who knows all thofe lords, and can give
him notice when they approach. At firft, when
I went about in Cairo, I made my janiflary go
before, and my fer^^ant follow, both mounted on
afles as well as myfelf. But, after having the
mortification to fee thefe two MulTulmans re-
main upon their beafts, while I was obliged to
alight, I determined to walk on foot.

It is true, that in Egypt, thefe diflindions^
between the Mahometans and perfons of other
religions, are carried a greater length, than any
where elfe through the Eaft. Chriftians and
Jews muft alight even before the houfe of the
chief Cadi ; before more than a fcore of other
houfes in which the magiflrates diftribute jus-
tice ; before the gate of the janilTaries ; and be-
fore feveral mofques. They are not even fuf-
fered to walk by feveral mofques in high vene-
ration for their fandity ; or by the quarter El-
Karafe, in which are a great many tombs
and houfes of prayer ; they are obliged to turn
but of their way, to avoid thefe places, as even
the ground on which they ftand, is fo facred in
the eyes of the people, that they will not fuffer
it to be profaned by the feet of infidels.

I know not, if there be a formal prohibition,
forbidding Chriftians to appear on horfeback in
the ftreets of Cairo. The laft Englifti Conful

appeared

IK ARABIA, l^C,

83

appeared always on horfeback, dreffed like a
Mahometan lord. But he was very rich, and
gained the efteem of the great by giving them
fplendiid entertainments ; and of the common
people by diftributing large alms, whenever he
appeared in public. The other Confuls never
ride on horfeback, except when they go to have
^n audience of the Pacha. As fhey then drefs
magnificently, they are expofed to the infults
of the people, who think our Ihort dreffes very
unbecoming for a perfon of dignity to wear.
At other times, thefe Confuls ride modeftly on
'4fles, and alight with due humility whenever
they meet an Egyptian lord.

Chap. IV.

Of tht Police of the Cities.

In a city, like Cairo, inhabited by a number of
petty tyrants, who are ever at variance among
themfelves, and feeking each others ruin, and
who often proceed to open violence in deter-
mining their quarrels, private perfons can never
confider themfelves, as in abfolute fecurity. The
narrow nefs of the ftreets, and the crowds which
are coaftantly preffing through them, are favour-
able to diforder. Yet, fewer inftances of rob-

K 2 bery

84

niebuhr's travels

bery, theft, and murther, are heard of here^ than
in the great cities of Europe. A few regula-
tions, which are common through all the Eaft,
maintain tranquillity, and are nearly as carefully
obferved through all the cities of the province^
as in the capital.

The magiflrates contribute to the public fe-
curity, by a very prompt adminidration of juf-
tice. The Cadi, and a number of other infe-
rior judges, difpofed through the different quar-
ters of the city, never leave their tribunals, but
are continually adive in m.aintaining order, and
pacifying the quarrels which arife, each in his
own diviiion.

At Cairo, and in all the other cities of the
Eaft, every trade has a head, who is intrufled
with authority over them, knows every indivi-
dual in the body to which he belongs, and is
in fome meafare anfwerable for them to Govern-
ment. Thofe heads of the trades preferve or-
der among the artifans, who are a numerous bo-
dy. Even the women of the tov/n, and thieves,
have each a head in the fame manner ; not that
thief or robber is a profeffion licenfed by law ;
but, the head is appointed to facilitate the reco-
very of flolen goods. At Tripoli in Barbary,
the black il||ves choofe a chief, Vvho is acknow-
ledged by t^e regency ; and this is a mean by

wbici^

IN -ARABIA, Uc,

which the revolt or elopement of thofe flaves is
often prevented.

The great officers of the police and of judice
vilit the different parts of the city, both by night
and day, attended by a numerous train, and at
feafons Vv^hen they cannot be expeded, in order
to infped the markets, and to take up fufpecled
perfons. Thofe officers give inftant fentence up-
on offenders, and condemn them to the bailina-
doe, without any form of procefs ; they will e-
ven hang them up if they take them in the ad.
The fear of being every moment furprifed by
thefe officers, reftrains the people from mutiny
or pillage. I have often witnefTed the terror
which thofe awful infpeclors infpire. At light
of them, my Egyptian fervant, was fo ilruck with
fear, that he ran haftily homewards, and I was
obliged to ufe force before I could make him
turn and proceed.

All the flreets of Cairo have gates which are
fliut at night ; but a porter waits to open to
thofe who can allege fatisfaclory reafons for
paffing fi'om one Hreet to another, and approach
with a hght in their hands. The man, for a
fmall acknowledgment, opens the gate, but fiops
every fufpecled perfon. This regulation pre^
vents noäurnal aifembiies and tumults among
the people. It at the fame time foventireiy fe-
parates the feveral quarters of the city, that the

Beys

S6

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

Beys often contend with open violence, while the
other inhabitants know nothing of the matter.

To fupport this eitabiifhment, there is a
chamber near each gate, occupied by a guard
of janiifaries, who prote^l the porter by night»
and, in the day, maintain order in the quarter^
This guard is not relieved : the janiifaries of
whom it coniifts are liberally paid by the city ;
and they remain in this lucrative office, while
their conduct continues to give fatisfadion.

Chap. V\

Of the Egyptian Agrkidiur^,

IIaving had few opportunities of obferving th^
induftry of this people, I fhall have little to fay
concerning the ftate of the arts in Egypt, which
is not yet very flo^rifliing. But, there are fome
which afford articles of trade, and thefe it
y/ould be improper to overlook entirely.

Agriculture, the firft and moil important of
all arts, is not in a very thriving condition here ;
at leaft, if we compare the prefent produce of
the lands with what a country of fuch na-
tural fertility might be brought, by cultiva-
tion, to produce. I have hinted above at the
natural caufes of this decline. But the local

circuniflances

IN AISJ^ElAj %J

drcumftances of this fingularly fituat^d country
are fuch, that even an unhappy mode of govern-
ment, and the mifery of the hulbandman, can-
not extinguifli the natural fertility of the foih
However ill-cultivated, it fiill continues to
compenfate richly the flight labour that is he-
flowed upon it, and to repay, with ufury, the
trifling expence laid out upon it.

The foil of the Lower Egypt feems to be a
fandy earth that has been gradually depofited by
the river (p). In a dry and torrid climate, andun-
der an unclouded flvy, fuch long feafons of
drought as Egypt experiences would render it
an arid and barren defert, vv^ere it not for the
fertilizing waters of the Nile,

Some deferiptions of Egypt would lead us to
think, that the Nile, v/hen it fweils, lays tb^
whole province under Vv^ater. The lands ad--
joining immediately to the banks of the river
are indeed laid under water. But the natural
inequality of the ground hinders it from over-
flowing the interior country. A great part of
the lands would therefore remain barren, were
not canals and refervoirs formed to receive wa~
ter from the river, when at its greatefl height,
which is thus conveyed every where through
the fields, and referved for watering them, v» he n
Qccaflon requires.

The

18

niebuhr's travels

The befl part, therefore, of Egyptian agri-
culture, is the watering of their grounds. The
water which the hulbandman needs is often in
a canal, much beneath the level of the land
which he means to water. The water he muft
therefore raife to an equality with the furface of
the grounds, and difhribute over them, as it is
wanted. The great art of Egyptian hulbandry
is thus reduced to the having proper machines
for raifing the water, and enough of fmall ca-
nals judicioufly difpofed, to diftribute it.

Thofe machines are commonly very limple ;
a wheel with buckets forms their whole mecha-
nifm. The largeft are moved by oxen ; the
fmaller by the ftrength of the arm. It is not
eafy to fee how the Egyptians have come to be
fo much celebrated for the ingenuity of their
iftäjchines. Thefe are not of the invention of
the modern Egyptians, but have been ufed for
time immemorial, without receiving the ilightell
improvement.

Their inftruments of hufbandry are very bad.
Their plough, which they call Marha, is no
better than that of the Arabians, of which I fliali
hereafter have occafion to fpeak. To fmooth
the ground, they ufe a tree or a thick plank,
drawn by oxen yoked with cords. The driver
fits upon this machine ; for the Egyptian pea-
fants are not fond of walking.

Ther

Tfiey ufe oxen, as the antients did, to beat
but their corn, by trampling upon the Iheaves,
änd dragging after them a clunify machine.
This machine is not, as in Arabia, a Hone cylin-
der ; nor a plank with fharp ftones, as in Syria ;
but a foil of fledge, confifting of three rollers fit-
ted with irons, which tiirn upon axles. A far-
mer choofes out a level fpot in his fields, and
has his corn carried thither in Iheaves, upon af-
fes or dromedaries. Two oxen are then yoked
in a fledge, a drivet gets upon it, and drives
them backwards and forwards upon the flieaves,
and frefli oxen fucceed in the yoke; from time
to time. By this öperatiori the chafi is very much
cut down. The whole i§ then winnowed, and
the pure grain thus feparated. This mode of
threfliing out the corn is tedious and inconve--
tiient ; it defl:roys the chaff, and injures thß
quality of the grain,

I faw no wheeled carriages ih Egypt ; every
thing is conveyed backwards and forwards 011
camels or afles. When the canal of Cairo was
to be cleanfedp a peafant brought two oxen
drawing a fort of open tray upon the dry ground^
and when it was filled, led theirl with it to the
bank. Within the city, wiiere the bottom of
the canal was not dry, the perfons employed in
cleanfing it, threw duft from the ftreet, upon the
tnire in the canal, and then, with their hands?

Vol, I, L int^

hiebuhr's travels

into panniers upon afles, and thus removed it
a proper diftance. Such is the boafted induftrj
of the Egyptians.

I have feen neither wind nor water-mill here.
A few large mills there are, which are moved
by oxen turning a poft that forms the axle-tree
of a large wheel. The poorer people have only
hand-mills to grind their corn ; and thefe they
ufe alfo in breaking the beans with v/hich the
aiTes are fed.

Recourfe is had to the impreffion of the ele-
ments, in the management of no other machine.
Oxen are employed in working the oil-mills?
faffron-preßes, 6tc. Among the different manu-»
failures of Egypt, that of faffron merits particu-
lar notice ; the procefs by which the Egyptians
prepare this article gives it a livelier colour than
what is made elfewhere.

Chap. VIL

Cff the Arts &f ^tiblimatmg Sal Ammoniac^ and of hatching
Chickens.

As Egypt is without wood, its inhabitants are
obliged to burn the dung of their domeftic ani-
mals. The dung of afles and camels is chiefly

ufed

IN ARABIA,

§1

iifed for fuel, becaufe thefe two fpecies are the
moll numerous, and the moll common. Little
girls go about, gathering the dung in the ftreets,
and upon the highways ; they mix it with cut
Itraw ; and of this mixture make cakes, which
they place along the walls, or upon the declivi-
ty of fome neighbouring eminence, to dry them
in the fun.

The lower clafs live ufualh in chambers
vaulted with unburnt bricks. In theie cham-
bers, thofe cakes are burnt, with a little ftraw
intermixed, or inftead of it, (talks of certain
plants ; and this both for warming the apart-
ments in winter, and for dreliing the viduals.
A foot, very rich in falts, is thus produced, which
fallens to the roofs of the chambers. It is fold
to the merchants, who judge of its quality by its
tafte, and employ it in the manufadure of fal-
ammoniac. The foot of wood is of a very dif-
ferent nature. Sal-ammoniac was long thought
to be a production peculiar to Egypt. It was
thought that it could be obtained only from
camel's dung. But the truth is, that foot is e-
qually good for the manufadure of fal-animo-
niac, whether prepared from horfe's, afs's,lheep's
or camel's dung ; and this fait may be pixpared
in any other country, where dung is burnt in-
ftead of wood, as well as in Egypt,

L 2 Since

p2

Since the nature and origin of fal-ammoniaq
have become better known, feveral authors have
defcribed the procefs ufed in Egypt for fubli«
mating the foot. It vi^ould be improper to re-
peat thofe defcriptions at full length. I lhall
only obferve, that this fublimation is perform»
ed in large bottles of thick glafs, lhaped like
bombs, and put into a furnace which is heated
with dung. For three days and three nights,
an equal heat is kept up, and that intenfe e-
nough to vitrify the potter's earth with which
the bottles are coated, to make them reßft the
violence of the fire. The furnace is then fuffer-
ed to cool, the bottles are broken, and the fal-
ammoniac taken out of their necks, into which it
has been raifed by fublimation.

Some travellers mention the mode of hatch-
ing chickens in ufe here, as a very wonderful
invention, and a very ufeful art. But it is much
negledled at prefent by the Egyptians, who pro-
bably did not find all the advantage in it that
is imagined. Unlefs at Cairo there are no fur-
iiaces for this purpofe ; thefe belong to the Pa-
cha ; they are ufed only in fummer, for the
hatching is faid not to fucceed fo well in win-
ter. Private perfons indeed carry fome eggs to
the furnaces, and pay fo much a-hundred, to a
perfon who undertakes to manage the hatching
0f theme The owners mark their eggs ; and

IN ARABIA,

93

the hatcher is obliged to fhew the marks upoa
thofe which mifgive in the hatching. But I
did not learn that the number of chickens hatch-
ed in this way was very conflderable.

There is nothing extraordinary about the fur-
nace in which the procefs is perfoimed. The
great furnace contains feveral fmaller, arranged
in two divilions, where the eggs ly upon ftraw,
and are turned feveral times by night, as well
as by day. Whatever is peculiar in the con-
llrudion of the ovens, is intended folely for the
purpofe of keeping a gentle and equal heat«
This is efFedied by the circulation of the heatj,
through a fort of galleries which run along the
openings of the fmaller furnaces. They begin
with heating the large oven with fmoke, and the
proper degree of heat is kept up, by placing
lighted lamps in the galleries. That degree
muß: be precifely the fame as in the baths«
When the chickens are produced, they are fhut
up very clofe in a fquare apartment behde the
furnace, where they enjoy the fame degree
heat, as if under a hen. Thefe chickens fell ve-.
ry low, and are very puny.

What appeared lingular to me about this fur-
nace, was its being entirely buried in a fort of
hill. The chimnies and fpiracles are holes made
in the earth • and when one enters one of thofe
furnaces, it is like going into a grotto, I v/as

told

94 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

told by perfons of intelligence, that this pofitio|i
was indifpeniibly neceilary, in order to the ob-
taining of the due degree of heat. -

, Ghap. VII,

Of the Oracle of JSgypt,

Egypt, although fo greatly declined from its an-
cient , grandeur, flill affords many produdions
which are capital articles in commerce. By its
fituation too, it is well fitt^.d to be an empo»
rium for foreign merchandife. It has commu-
nication by the Red Sea, with Arabia, Perfia^,
and the Indies ; by the Nile, upon one lide,,
with Nubia and Abyffinia, — and on the other,
with Europe, Barbary, Syria, and all the pro-
vinces of the Turkifh empire. While thus hap-
pily fituated for the advantages of navigation, it
lies alfo in the midft of thofe nations who are
accuftomed to travel in caravans, and is, of con-
fequence, the natural centre of their commerce.

Cairo, by means of thefe circumftances, has
become the reiidence of a great number of rich
merchants, who carry on trade in a manner very
different from that in which it is conducted in
Europe. For want of eflabliihments favourable
to a regular correfpond^nce of agents, merchants

aro

iis ARABIA, iSci

are obliged to make frequent voyages for the
•management of their affairs, or to fend fome of
their fervants or flaves to ad: for them.

This inconvenience is, however, in part, com«
penfated by a cuftom generally prevalent through
the JGaft. Merchants from the fame country^
and often fuch as deal in the fame forts of goods
lodge all in the fame kan, or earavanferai, fo
that you can eafil/ learn where to find what-
you want. A conilderable number of couriers^
alwavs attend to guide or dire<5t enquirers upon
fuch occaaons.

Staying fo Ihort a time as I did in Egypt, I
liad not enough of opportunities to become fuf-
iicieatly acquainted with the nature of the E«
gyptian trade. But a very intelligent French
merchant favoured me with the communication
of fome important facts concerning both the fo-
reign and internal trade of this province.

I mull firft obferve, that feveral branches of
the internal trade, thofe of leather, rice, and
fienna, have greatly decayed, by the imprudent
condud of Government. Ibrahim Kiaja, who
for ten years governed almoft all Egypt, thought
fit to farm out the duties upon thefe branches.
The farmers have raifed the duties to fo high a
rate, that the articles upon which they are paid
are no longer faleable.

Raw

Raw hides are ftill a confiderable objecl Iti
the Egyptian trade : about 80,000 hides of buf-
faioes, camels, cows, and oxen, are exported
yearly. Near 10,000 go to Marfeilles, and a
Hill greater number to Italy. The buffaloes
hides being thicker and heavier than the others,
are chiefly tranfported to Syria. As the paftures
of Lower Egypt are excellent, the hides of its
cattle, in coiifequence of their being fo well fed,
are of the very beft quality for leather. A pro-
digious quantity of thofe cattle are killed in the
months of the facrifices, that is, while the piL
grims are aSembled at their devotions at
Mecca.

1, 8 00,000 pound weight of faffron is annually
prepared in Egypt. The greater part of it goes
to Marfeilles and Italy ; the reft to Syria and
Arabia. The beft faffron grows in the vicinity
of Cairo ; that of Upper Egypt is not reckoned
fo good.

The exportation both of lint aüd linen- cloth
is an important article in this trade. They arc
exported to Syria, Arabia, Turkey, and even
to Marfeilles and Leghorn. What cotton re-
mains, after the home-confunipt is fupplied^,
goes to France and Italy. But this is not much^
however, for no cotton grows except in Lower
Egypt. There is even fugar produced here, the
«anes growing in Upper Egypt ; but it is fo

IN ARABIA, l^C^

92

|)repared, that they cannot fell it fo cheap
the American fugars.

Were the trade in rice under no rellraint, a
confiderable quantity might be exported. But,
for the exportation of this article, the ports of
Jgypt are fluU, and therefore the Europeans
dare not carry off any of it, unlefs by Damiettaa
The Americans arc even faid to have brought
rice hither, for fome time, from Carolina : And
if this be fo, there can be no better proof of
the aftonifliing decline of agriculture in Egypl^>

Sal ammoniac, yellow wax, and fenna, whiclx
come, in part, from Upper Egypt, are articles
that can never contribute greatly to increafe the
opulence of a country. The adminiftration ap-
pear to gain more by thefe articles than the tra^
ders ; for the duties charged upon them are in
no j uft proportion to their value.^

In exchange for thefe commodities, with
which Egypt fupplies oth^r nations, its inhabi-
tants need various articles that are imported
from other countries. The French export at
leaft 800 bales a- year of cloth of Lapguedoc to
Egypt ; for even the very (ervants make a point
of having a new fuit every year, to wear at the
feaft of Beiram, The Emir-Hadgi of the Mec-
ca caravan ufes no fewer than feventy bales him-
felf ; for he is obliged to make prefents of fuits
#f clothes to the Arabs, who meet the caravan

YoL. L M upon,

98

niebuhr's travels

upon their journey, as well as to a number of
perfons at Mecca. The Egyptians never drefs
in filk ; when, by any accident, it happens that
they do, they prefer the rich ftuifs of the iile of
Scio to the manufadures of France and Italy.

Venice and Marfeilies difpofe of more than a
thoufand bales of paper in Egypt, every year •
one part of it intended for the confumpt of E-
gypt, the other for Arabia. All the writing-
paper muft be glazed : for the people of the
Eaft ufe reeds and very thick ink, in writing,
A great quantity of paper is ufed in windows ;
for, in this hot country, panes of glafs are fel-
dorn to be feen

The Europeans likewife import cochineal in-
to Egypt, 80 barrels of which are ufed there^
and 200 fent to India. Were not the induitry
of the Dutch fo well known, it might appear
furprifing that the Egyptians Ihould be reduced
to the neceffity of fupplying themfelves with
fpiceries from European merchants, from w^hom
they purchafe pepper, cloves, ginger, 8ce. It
is more natural to fee Egypt receive from us
the produdions of thofe arts in which we excel^^
fuch as needles, cutlery ware, lead, mercury
&c.

Coffee is an article that is both confumed in
the country, and conveyed through it. As this
is the favourite beverage of the Turks, they are

deiiroug

IN ARABIA, i^C.

99

defirous of having it in the mod genuine purity^
The importation of American, and the expor-
tation of Arabian coffee, are equally forbidden.
But thefe prohibitions are eluded, by means of
prefents to the great, and to the officers of the
cufloms ; fo that the Europeans procure, every
year a conliderable quantity of their Levant cof-
fee out of Egypt. But a A^ery fmail quantity^
indeed, of the ifland coffee is ufed, and folely in
mixture with that of Yemen. It is not long
lince coffee from Martinico was the only fort
drunk in Upper Egypt ; but it became dear
during the lad Wctr. The Egyptians then re-
folved to bring good coffee from Arabia, by the
way of CaJ/lir, and they have it at prefent for
ä reafonable price ; whereas that of the Weft In-
dies was fold exorbitantly high.

Gum-arabic is one of the mofl confiderable ar-
ticles of commerce that pafs through Egypt.
Every year, in the month of Odober, two or
three fmall caravans of the Arabs, from the
neighbourhood of Par and Mount Sinai, arrive
with about 70,000 pound w^eight of the gum.
Thofe Arabs are very much in the w^ay of de-
bafing their goods with an intermixture of ex-
traneous matters ; and yet oblige the Mahome-
tan merchants to take them without any exa«
mination of their quality. Out of an averfion to
cities, or probably to avoid coi'poral punifhment

M 2 for

io6 Niebühr's travels

for their frauds and robberies, thefe ArabiäM
never enter Cairo. They encamp at half a
league's diftance from the walls. The mer-
chants are obliged to go out to them, in order
to tranfad for the purchafe of the gum. The
Arabs don't take money, but clothes, and fuch
other things as they ftand in need of in the de-
fert.

A great many caravans arrive from different
parts of Africa, in the months of June and July,
with three different forts of this fame gum. A
quantity comes alfo from Habbefch, by the way of
Djidda and Suez, which, though inferior in qua-
lity, palfes all into Europe, which receives an-
nually 500,000 pound weight of this article.

Thofe African caravans bring, at the fame
time, feveral other commodities ; flaves, ivory
otlrich- feathers, tamarinds, and gold duft. They
take, in exchange, Egyptian cloth, falfe pearls
coral, arms, and even full fuits of clothes, which
the inhabitants of Cairo make up, according ta
their tafte. This is what has, of late, increaf-
ed the demand for broad-cloth in Egypt.

SECTION

In ÄRABIAj ^C,

SECTION I¥.

Olr THE MANNERS OF THE ORIENTALS IN GENE-
RAL, AN© PARTICULARLY OF THE EGYPTIANS^

Chap. I.

Of the Inhabitants of Cairo and its Neighhourhocdo

A.RABS arid Turks from all the provinces is
the Ottoman empire, form the moft numerous
part of the inhabitants of Cairo. There are al«
fo Magrehbins^ or Arabs from Barbary, other
AfricanSj Perüans, and Tartars ; All thefe are
Mahometans, and moll of them attached to the
fed of Schafei,

After the Mahometans, the Copts are the next
irx numbers. They occupy whole quarters of
the city, and very large ftreets. They have a
great many churches, both in the capital, and at
Mafr-el-atik in its vicinity. Their patriarch
alfo refides at Cairo,-

KIEBUHr's TRÄYEtS

The Jews are the moil numerous clafs, next
after the Mahometans and the Copts. Some
Pharifees or Talmudifts, relide here, as well as
Karaites, who, though not numerous, have a fy-
nagogue of their own. The Talmudills are nu-=
merous and powerfuL They have long farmed
all the cuftoms ; an undertaking which brings
them both wealth and credit. In the republican
Government of Egypt, they find it eafier to gain
Heady protectors, than in the other provinces of
Turkey, where all depends upon the caprice of
a j^acha who knows not how foon he may lofe
his place, or of the fuperintendant of the cuf-
toms who refides in Conilantinople. One proof
of the confequence which the Jews enjoy under
the ariflocracy of Cairo, is, that tile offices of the
cuitoms are Ihut upon their fabbath, and no
goods can pafs on that day, although belonging
to Chriftians or MuiTiilmans.

The Greeks have only two churches in Cairo,
in one of which the fervice is performed by the
patriarch of Alexandria, and in the other by the
bifhop of Mount Sinai. The Armenians, who
are not numerous, have only one church, but
that a handfome one. From Europe here are
feveral French and Italian merchants, but no
Dutchmen ; yet the Dutch have a Conful here,
as well as France and Venice.

IN ARABIA, '(Je.

203

If Cairo come ever to want European mer-
chants, yet it is not probable, that it will be
without eccleßaflics of the Pvoman Communion.
lleve are Jefuits, Capuchins, Cordeliers, and Fa-
thers of the Society for the propagation cf the
Chriftian Faith. Thefe monks are all eager to
make profelytes, and fometimes fucceed fo far as
to convert fome fchifmatic Chriftian of the Eaft,
The Government readily tolerates thefe m.odera
apoftles, on account of the profits which they
derive from the quarrels which the converfions
produce between the apoilate, and the members
of the Communion which he forfakes. The Pa-
cha is often not content with fining the contend-
ing parties, but examines the affair to the bot-
tom, and exacts confiderable funis from the monks
befides.

The neighbourhood of Cairo is partly inha-
bited by Copts, but chiefly by Arabs, wandering
or fettled. Thefe deferve to be more particular-
ly confidered.

Chap. IL

Of the Copts.

If an ancient origin, and illuflrious anceflors
could confer merit, the Copts would be an high-.

104

niebühr's trav^l^

ly eftimable people They are defcended fron^
the ancient Egyptians ; and the Turks, upoi^
this account, call them, in derilion, the pofte^
lity of Pharaoh. But their uncouth figure, thei^
ftupidity, ignorance, and wretchednefs, do little
credit to the fovereigns of ancient Egypt.

They have lived for 20Q0 years under the dor
minion of different foreign conquerors, and hav^
experienced many vicifiitudes. of fortune. They
have loft their manners, their language, their re-
ligion, and almoft their exiftence. They are
reduced to a fmaU number, in comparifon of th?
Arabs, who have poured like a flood over this
country. Of the diminution of the numbers of
the Copts fome idea may be formed from the re-
dudion of the number of their biihops, Thej
were feventy in number, at the period of th^
Arabian conqueft. They are now only twelve,
and moft of thefe fettled in Upper Egypt, t^
which the ancient i^habitants feem to have re-
tired from the centre of the conq^eä.

The Egyptians have been always diftinguifli-,
<?d as a melancholy, conceited, and fuperftitious,
race. Their pofterity rnaintain with the fame
pbftinacy, the opinions which they were com^
pelled by the Greeks to adopt. The Copts have
an inflirmountable averfion to the Romifh
Church. Their patriarch is at the fame tim«

heai

IN ARABIA, Wc, 105

tead of the Abyffinian Church, whither he fends
a bifliop to govern the clergy.

It would be a matter of lingular importance
to recover the knowledge of the ancient Coptic^
the Rifan Pharaoun, or language of Pharaoh.
In Egypt, we fee, even on the mummies, al-
phabetical infcriptions, which are very different
from the hieroglyphics, and, ifdecyphered, might
throw light upon the ancient hiftory of Egypt,
and help to an explanation of the hieroglyphics.
But this language of the ancient Egyptians feems
to be. entirely loft. The Ptolomies were at pains
to fubftitute the Greek, inftead of the ancien^
language of their new fubjeds. The Greek em-
perors of Conftantinople forbade the ufe of the
Coptic in eonverfation, under pain of death ;
and obliged the Egytians to adopt the Greek,
inftead of the Pharaonic alphabet. Hence the
modern Coptic, in which thefe people have their
verfion of the Holy Scriptures, is a mixture of
Greek and old Egyptian. The Sultans of Egypt
effaced the remains of this language, thus cor-
j.upted, by forbidding it to be fpoken, under the
fame penalty, and introducing, in its room, the
Arabic, which is the prefent language of the
Copts. The liturgy is ftill read in the modern
Coptic ; but the people underftand it not, till
explained from an old Arabic tranflation, that
is written befide the text. Even the priefts un-

VoL. I. N derftand

io6 niebuhr's travels

derfland not the language of their Scriptures^
and can fcarce read the charaders.

Mr Forikal became acquainted with a Copt,
named Ibrahirn Ennafch^ a man of learning and
poliflied manners, whofe employment was in
copying the books of the liturgy ; by which he
earned at the rate of half-a- crown in three days.
My friend faw, in the hands of this Egyptian?
a dictionary of a great many genuine old Coptic
words, with their explanations in Arabic. He
was alfo informed by Ibrahim Ennafch, that
there Hill are, in feveral convents in Upper E-
gypt, a good number of Coptic books ; but his
informer knew nothing of their nature or con-
tents. The clergy conceal thefe books with
great care, for fear, as they fay, left the Catholics
carry them off, and, after faliifyjing their con-
tents, print them in Europe. Thus they have
hitherto remained unknown. If thofe ecclefiaf-
tics could be perfuaded that we are not all of
the fame party as the Pope, and were at the
fame time gratified with fomething to alleviate
their extreme poverty, copies of the books in
this hidden literary treafure might fiirely be ob-
tained o

Gha^.

If>T AkABtA, "^C,

107

Chap. III.

Of the Arabians in Egypt,

The Arabians appear to have conquered and
fettled in Egypt, at feveral different periods,
very diftant from one another. Veiliges may
flill be traced which prove their ancient refi-
dence in this country. The fhepherd-kings,
w^hofe memory was in abhorrence among the
Egyptians, mufl have been leaders of troops of
wandering Arabs.

But, whatever may have paiTed in thofe re-
mote ages, lince Egypt was conquered by the
Saracens, the greater part of its inhabitants
have been Arabs. Of thefe, fome are fettled in
the cities ; others live in the villages, and culti-
vate the ground ; and the reft wander through
the country with their cattle, and encamp in
tents.

When I come to fpeak of the Arabian nation
in general, I fliall then have occaüon to fpeak
of its different branches, their manners and cuf-
toms : Here I fhall only mention fome particu-
lars relative to the Egyptian branch,

N 3 The

I08 NIEBUHR's TRAVELS

The Arabian inhabitants of the cities of this
province have nothing peculiar to diftinguifh
them from thofe in the other cities of the Eaft
or in Arabia, in particular. And the Arabian,
peafant of Egypt equally refembles the other
peafants of the Eaft. Yet, the pofterity of ftran=
gers fettling in Egypt are thought to degenerate,
Arabian horfes, too, lofe their ftrength and met-
tle here. Egyptian peafant is a denomination
of contempt through Arabia.

The Bedouins, or wandering Arabs, being
free, almoft independent, and rather tributary
allies, than fubjeds of the Egyptian Govern-
ment, are the moft remarkable branch of the
nation. They are divided into tribes, govern-
ed by hereditary chiefs, called Scbiecbs, and
thefe fubordinate to a great Schiech, who has
authority over feveral tribes^ Upon paying a
certain tribute to Government, the Bedouins ar^
permitted to feed their flocks through the rich
pafturage -grounds of Egypt. But they frequent-
ly abufe this per million, and pillage, without
diftindion, as well the hufbandmen in the dif-
tricls in which they encamp, as thofe travel-
lers who have the misfortune to fall into their
hands. They are ready, too, to take part in the
dilTeniions which frequently arife in this mili-
tary republic. When Government attempts to
punilh them, or to conftrain them to their du-

7'. /( ■(/.

I

EN ARABIA, l^C,

ty, they either defend themfelves by force, of
retire into the defarts till their mifdemeanours
be forgotten.

They are almoft always on horfeback, and
armed with a lance,— at leaft the more conlide-
rable among them,— and ranging from place to
place : The care of their cattle, and excurfions
for robbery or amufement, are all their employ-
ment.

Independence renders them haughty and in-
folent ; and their idle, unfettled way of life^
with the poverty w^hich naturally attends it^
probably infpire that fpirit of theft and robbery
by which they are fo much diftinguifhed. I have
already had occafion to mention fome inflances
of their propenfity to infefl the country and in-
fult paflengers. Mr Forlkal and I had a new
proof of it in an excurfion which we made to
the Pyramids. Setting out from Geefli, we
met two Bedouins on horfeback, whom we hir-
ed to guide and efcort us. Juft as we reached
the foot of the Pyramids, we obferved an Arab
riding up to us at full gallop. He v/as a young
Schiech, and behaved at firfl: to us with great
civility : But he foon changed his tone, threat-
ened us with his lance, and ordered us to give
him money, before we quitted the fpot« Upon
Mr Forlkal's refufing to comply with fo infolent
a demand, the Schiech feized his turban, and

held

110 NiEBUHR^S TRÄ-^Etl

held his piftol to my breaft, when I offered to
defend my friend. The two Bedouins, our
guides, made no attempt to interpofe, either out
of refped to the Schiech, or from natural per-
fidy. We were at laft obliged to gratify the
robber. We returned another time better at-
tended. But this did not hinder the Arabs
from gathering about us, and Healing whatever
they could lay their hands on, unobferved.

The Arabic language has, from the circum"
fiances here enumerated, become the language
of Egypt : But, Jn the mouths of the Egyptians,
and thofe vagabond Bedouins, it difplays little
of its genuine purity. Mr Forlkal left a long
lift of words ufed at Cairo, which differ entire-
ly from the words expreffive of the fame ideas
in the diale6l of Yemen. The laft, being the
dialed: of a province fhut up in a manner from
ftrangers, and therefore not liable to be debafed
by any mfuiion of foreign idioms, is to be re-
garded as the teft of the other dialedls. That
of Egypt is contaminated with forms of expref-
11 o a i'rom all the diverfity of languages which
the viciilitudes of its fortune and the diverfity
of its inhabitants have occafionally introduced
into that country.

Chap.

IN ARABIA, t^C,

Chap. IV,

Of the Drefs of the Men in the Eaß.

There is little diverfity in the manners and cuf-
toms of many of the Mahometan nations in the
Eaft. Wherefore, to avoid repeating afterwards
what I am ta mention here, I fliail explain at
fome length whatever is common to ail thofe
nations, and which will therefore refer to the
Egyptians among others.

We have feveral good defcriptions of the drefs
of the people of the Eaft, with fuitable engrav-
ings accompanying them. Thofe in RulTel's
defcription of Aleppo, are the beft and the lat-
eft. Yet, upon a comparifon of the plates in
Ruflel's work, with the drefs at prefent worn
through the Ottoman empire and in Egypt, a
great difterence may be perceived. What hap-
pens in Europe, happens likewife in Turkey ;
fafliions change ; and the drefs of the great,
and of the capital are imitated through the pro-
vinces.

The drefs of the Eaftern nations, fome pecu-
liar cities amonr' Thi:h we obfervedwith particu-
lar attention, >^ .i L apted to their climate and
manners. As tney are accuftomed to fit crofs-

legged,

112

niebuhr's travels

legged, they wear their clothes very wide. - And
being obliged to exprefs their refped for holy
places, and for the apartments of the great, by
leaving their flioes at the gate, they find it me-
ceflary to drefs fo as that they may fiiffer no in-
convenience from the want, .of them. In many
countries of the Eaft, the climate is very un>
equal, with fudden variations from heat to cold.
The inhabitants of fuch countries are obliged to
clothe themfelves warmer, than we fhould think
necelTary, and to wear feveral pieces of drefs, one
over another, which they may lay alide and re-
fume, as the temperature of the air varies.

The Turks, who fet the falhion to a great part
of the Eaft, wear a fliirt with very wide fieeves,
and, under it, linen drawers joining ftock-
ings of the fame ftuff, over which they put
upon their feet teiliks, which are a fort of very
thin flippers. Above thefe ftockings, drawers,
and fhirt, they put on a fchakfchir, or large red
breeches, to v/hich are fewed other flippers, or
meßs, as thin as the firft. Above the fchakfchir,
they wear an enteri, or vefl, which falls under
the knees ; and over the whole, a caftan or robe,
reaching down to the feet. That it may not
incommode them in walking, they take up a part
of the caftan by means of a broad girdle ; in
which is fixed the Canjar, or poignard, which
the Turks eonftantly wear. Over the caftan,

they

IN ARAEIA, i^.

"3

they put on a great coat with very fliort lleeves,
which for winter is lined with furs, but is with»
out them when intended to be worn in the o-
ther feafons of the year. They often cover, all
thefe pieces of drefs with another peilice or b^^
?iifch, or furtout of thick cloth.

Such a quantity of clothes would be too ex-
penflve for the common people, and inconveni-
ent for them to Vv^ear at their work. They are
content with the breeches, the enteri, and the
benifcb. The peafant wears only the Ihirt and
drawers. A drefs confifting of fo many differ-
ent pieces is not convenient for travelling. Up-
on a journey, therefore, the Turks carry a large
blue bag in which they put up their long clothes.
They wrap their feet in pieces of cloth, and put
on wide boots ; and although this mode of dref-
ling the legs and feet be not the moll conveni-
ent for walking, yet it is v/armerthan our flock-
ings.

The drefs of the Chriflians in the Eaft is near-
ly the fame as that of the Turks. Only they
are prohibited the uie of bright -coloured fluffs.
They may not Vv^ear boots of yellow leather.
And they mufl: ufe dark colours in painting their
houfes. European Chriflians are allowed to
wear yellow leather, and clothes of any colour,
except green, which, rather by cuflom than by

Vol. I. O law.

114

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

law, is referved for the peculiar ufe of Muflul-
mans.

All the inhabitants of the Eaft, except fomc
Mahometan clergy, of the orders of the Dervifes
and Snatons, fhave their heads, referving only a
fmall tuft of their hair. This cuftom has been
blamed by fome perfons in Europe, as rendering
apoplexies more frequent among us than they
were among our forefathers y but it appears not
to produce any fuch efFeds among the Turks,
for they are not fubjed to apoplexy. They per«
haps guard againft it, by covering their heads
better than we. Their lhaved heads feem to
require a warmer covering, at leaft, and indeed
they wrap it up to a degree that feems to us very
unfuitable to the warmth of the climate. Nei-
ther do they uncover it in expreflion of refpecl
our mode of falutation feems to them very ab-
furd and ridiculous.

Through the Eaft there prevails a great varie-
ty of modes in covering the head ; which, at
firft, feems inconfiftent with the conftancy in
fuch matters for which thefe people are diftin-
guifhed. This diverlity, however, depends not
on faftiion. Differences in the head-drefs ferve
as diftindive marks of the nation, the condition,
and the employment of the perfons who wear
them. They even ferve as livery to fervants ;
-each clafs wear a particular form of bonnet,

correfp ending

IN ARABIA, ^r. 115

eorrefpo. ding to the nature of their bufinefs. It
is very convenient to find among perfons with
whom one is unacquainted, fuch external marks
indicating their refpeäive conditions.

Thefe various head-drelTes, which the Euro-
peans confound under the general name of Tur-
ban, may be all reduced to three forts. The
firß is a very high cloth bonnet lined with cot-
ton, and wrapped round upon the under part
with a piece of w^hite mufiin. This head-drefs,
which is called the Kaouk, is nothing but the
Turcoman bonnet, with fome ornaments, and is
therefore to be confidered as a Turkifh piece of
drefs. The fecond is a cloth bonnet, fmaller,
and much lower than the former ; it is alfo
wrapped upon the under part with a piece of li-
nen, and then receives the name of jafch or tur-
han ; this is the national head-drefs of the Ara-
bians, and by them the fafhion has been com-
municated through the reft of Afia. The third
is alfo a bonnet; of cloth, lined with cotton, of
various heights in the crown j but inftead of be-
ing wrapped with linen, bordered with a piece
of lambfkin. It is called Kalpak, and is of Tar-
tar origin, aUhough now worn by many of th«
Chriftians in the Eaft,

All the great men in Turkey, wear the Kamk
of yellovv cloth, with a piece of fine white muf-
lin wrapped round it. The Schenffs, or defcen-

O 2 dents

niebuhr's travels

dents of Mahomet, although in little eftimation,
and fcarcelj ever admitted to any public em-
ployments, diftinguifh themfelves by a piece of
green linen, rolled round their turbans, or Ka-
ouks. The Copts, and fuch Chriftians as ufe not
the Kalpak, wear a piece of linen ftriped blue
and white round their Kaoiik, which is common-
ly niade of red cloth. They are imitated in this
faftiion by fuch Europeans as alTume the drefs
of the country. Even the clergy wear it, as
well as others ; except the cordeliers and capu-
chins. Thefe lafl wear, through the whole Eaft,
the dirty tattered drefs of their orders, which is
very difgufting to the Mahometans, who confi-
der neatnefs and cleanlinefs as parts of religious
duty.

Chap. V

Of the Drefs of the W omen.

It is more difficult for a traveller to become ac-
quainted with the drefs of the women than with
that of the miCn in the Eaft. So far from being
permitted to enter the harem, a ftranger muft
not even fee a Mahometan lady in her own houfe.

It is impoffible to obferve their drefs, when
one meets them in the ftreet ; for the MulTuL

mans

IN ARABIA,

117

maris think it extreme indifcretioDj or even an in-
fult, to look with an eye of curiofity upon a vv^o-
man in the ftreet. Befides, they wrap them-
felves fo <:lofely up, when they go abroad, that
it would be vain to attempt to diftinguifli the
different parts of their drefs. At Conftantinople,
when they appear in the flreet, they have fo
much white linen about them, that nothing but
the eyes of the walking mummies can be feen.
At Cairo, they conceal the head, and a part of
the body, with a large black veil ; and their rich
habits are covered with a fort of large wrapper
of plain linen, which they put off, when they
enter the apartments of their friends.

As I never had any opportunity of feeing
a lady of diftinclion, I muft confefs my igno-
rance upon this head, and refer the reader
to Lady Mary V/ortley Montague's admira-
ble Letters. She was admitted into many ha-
reans, and had opportunities of feeing women
of rank in full drefs. She has been fiifpecled
of exaggerating the beauty, magnificence and
politenefs of the ladies of the Eaft. But I
know, from what I have feen and heard, that
her defcriptions are true. She has indeed con-
fined herfelf chiefly to what merited praife about
thofe ladies, while other travellers have fpoken
only of their defe6ls. But, whatever may be
faid of the truth of her relation, I can only fp^^k

of

fiebuhr's travels

of the drefs of the lower claffes of women, and
make fome general remarks.

All the women in the Eall wear drawers?
even where the men do not wear breeches. The
poorer fort wear nothing but tbofe drawers, and
a long blue fhirt. But, although in this man-
ner half-naked, they all, without exception^
wear veilss

The veil feems to be the moft important piece
of their drefs : their chief care is always to hide
their face. There have been many inflances of
women, who, upon being furprifed naked, ea-
gerly covered their faces, without Ihewing any
concern about their other charms. The Egyp-
tian peafants never give their daughters fhirts
till they are eight years of age. We often faw
little girls running about quite naked, and gaz*
ing at us as we palTed : None, however, had her
face uncovered ; but all wore vails. The veilj
fo indifpenfible a piece of drefs with the female
fex, is a long, triangular piece of linen cloth,
fixed to the head, and falling down before, fo
as to cover the whole face, except the eyes.

In fome provinces, efpecially in Syria, the
women vv^ear a fort of filver or lackered hatj
Ihaped like a cone, a platter, or fome other fan-
taitic form. The Arabian women, in Egypt
and in the defert, wear a number of fingular or-
raafnents ; large metal rings in their ears or no-

- ;fe^, 'y

IN ARABIA, 119

l*es ; others, of the fame kind, upon their legs,
immediately above the ancle, and upon their
arms, as bracelets ; on their lingers, fmall ring^
of little value ; pieces of coral hung about their
faces ; and necklaces of all forts. They fome-
times hang fmall bells to the trelTes of their
hair ; and the young girls fix them to their
feet. Some fancy themfelves highly adorned by
the impreflion of indelible blue marks, by punc-
tures upon the dieeks, the chin, and the other
parts of the body. Some paint their hands yel-
low, and their nails red, fancying thefe whim-
lical colourings irrefiftible charms.

The drefs of the Greek women is not materi-
ally different fram that of the Turkifli. As Eu-
ropeans occafionally marry wives out of Greek fa-
milies, we have frequent opportunities of feeing
in what manner they drefs ; and, by this meanSj,
we are enabled to form fome idea of the Maho-
metan women of rank.

All the Greek ladies wear drawers reaching
to their feet ; the lower part of their drefs is in^
deed nearly the fame as that of the men ; and
they walk, like them, in large flippers. Over
the drawers, they wear a iliirt of fine linen, and,
over it, a vefi, bound with a girdle of confide-
rable breadth. Over the veil is a habit, or pel-
lice with fliort lleeves, not ftretching more than
a fpan under the fhoulder. The head-drefs va-
ries

I20

ni^buhr's travels

ries with the caprice of fafhion ; and they are,
if poffible, more attentive to it than even our Eu-
ropean ladies. Nay, fome of thefe head-dref-
fes appeared to me more elegant than thofe worn
in Europe ; their drefs has at leafl fomething'
more rich and fplendid in its appearance. But,
to view thofe Eaftern beauties with admiration,
we mull fee them on their fophas ; v/hen they
move, their graces difappear. Being accuftom-
ed to lit crofs-legged, and to vv^ear a fort of thin
leather boots, in wide flippers, they walk very
aukwardly. European ladies, living in Tur-
key, ufe Ihoes, even though dreifed, in other
refpefe, like the women of the Eaft. But it is
eafy to diftinguiih, by their walking, whether
they are accuftomed to lit crofs-legged, or con-
tinue to ufe chairs. At Conftantinople, the la-
dies have carriages, but feldom ufe them. The
Turkiüi carriages refemble ours externally, on-
ly they are without doors, and have wooden
blinds inflead of fafhes of giafs ; you enter by a
ladder placed to the back of the carriage. With-
in, inftead of feats, are carpets, on which the
Turks fquat themfelves.

As carriages of all kinds are unknown at Ca-
iro, women of the highefl rank, as well as thofe
of the lower clalTes, are obliged to ride upon
aifes. Out of refped to the fex, the wives of

Jews

niebuhr's travels

121

Jews and Chriftians are fuifered to ride on, with-
out alighting, as they pafs the Egyptian nobles.

■Chap. VL

Of the Dlverßons of the Orientals,

It may appear trifling to defcend to a detail of
the arts by which a people have contrived to
while away the leifure hours that hang heavy on
their hands : Yet are thefe arts expreffive of the
chara6ler and manners of a nation. The nature
of the amufements followed in any country can
never be a matter of indiiFernce to an obferver,
who wiflies to fludy the character of its inhabi-
tants. Befides, what renders the amufements of
the Eaft peculiarly interefting, thtfe are all of
ancient origin, and an acquaintance with them
clears up fome difficulties concerning old cuf-
toms.

The climate, culloms, and government, con»
fpire to give the manners of the Orientals a me-
lancholy caft. Their ferioufnefs is encreafed by
the wantof focial intercourfe, from which they arc
fecluded by means of that jealoufy which hinders
them from admitting one another into their houfes^
They are fllent, becauie, when fhut up with their
women, where they have few topics for coiiverfa-

Vol, I. P tloo^

122

IN ARABIA, WC^

tion, they unavoidably acquire habits of taci*
turnity. As power is confined to a few hands^i
and induftry oppreffed by Government, the fub-
jeds of the Eaftern defpots naturally become
gloomy and languid for want of employment ;
and the more fo, for their being unacquainted
•with letters, or with the fine arts, which afford
the bell relief from the tcsdium of fuch a life.
The exactions of Government render fortune fo
precarious, as to bewilder the people in endlefs
fpeculations about their interefts, and to render
them more attached to bufinefs than to plea-
fure.

The amufements of nations in fuch circum-
fiances muft be very different from thofe of a
people among whom the idle and opulent foirm
a nuoierous clafs ; v/here the women lead the fa-
fhion, and give the tone to manners and conver-
fation, while all the v/orld are obliged to bend
to their whimfies and humours. In Europe, all
the pleafures of fociety are marked with the foft-
nefs and domeftic, fedentary life of the fex ; and
the men are daily adopting more entirely the a-
mufements of the women. But, in the Eafl, a-
niufements take their cafl more from the tran-»
fadions of publiq life, and have fomething more
mafculine and aufi:ere in them. The ignorance
of the Orientals, indeed, leaves them a relifh
for very infipid diverfions.

, In

IN ÄkABlA, l^C. 113

In the evening, the great generally fliüt them-
felves up in their harem. We know not what
pafles in thefe folitary retreats : But, as the wo--
men of the Eaft are exceflively ignorant, and
merely great children, it is very probable that
the amufements of the harem are extremely chil-
difh* Some hints which have occafionally efca-
fed from huibands of my acquaintance confirm
#ne irt this opinion.

The OJmanliy or Turks of diftindion, who
are ilill attached to the ancient military inftitu-
tions of the nation, amufe themfelves chiefly
with equeflrian exercifes. The principal inha-
bitants of Cairo meet twice a- week in a large
fquare, called Maßabe, with a number of atten-
dants on horfeback. In this fquare they play at
Gerid ; which confifts in running, by two and
two. With the ftirrups loofe, purfuing one ano-
ther, and tolling ftaves four feet long : thefe
they throw with fuch force, that if any one be
not upon his guard, he is in danger of having ä
leg or an arm broken. Others, while riding at
full gallop, throw balls into a pot placed upon
a heap of fand. Others, again, üioot the bow ;
an exercife in fuch repute, that pillars are ered:-
ed in honour of thofe who exhibit extraordinary
proofs of ftrength or dexterity in launching the
arrows,

P 2 When

124

niebuhr's travels

When the JSIile is at its greateft height, the
great about Cairo divert themfelves in little boats
fplendidly decked out, upon the Birkets in the
middle of the city. Upon this occafiony they
regale the inhabitants with mufic, and often
with fire- works.

A man originally from Tripoli in Barbary in-
formed me, that the Pacha of that city ufed
fometimes to erecl two fcaffolds, with cords run-
ning between them, and upon thefe miniature
models of ihips of war, armed with cannons of
a fize in proportion to that of the veflel. Thofe
veffels, thus fufpended in the air, and command-
ed by naval officers, who direded the evolutions
and the fire of the fmall artillery, prefented no
unentertaining reprefentation of a fea fight.
The captain whofe veiTel firft fuffered confider-
able damage was confidered as conquered.
But this diverfion often ended in ferious quar
reis among th^e commanders, and was therefore
aboliflied.

The fervants of the Egyptian nobles exercife
themfelves on foot, in throwing, one againil a-
nother, flaves five or fix feet long ; and thus
learn to throw the Gerid, when on horfeback»
The common people and peafants divert them-
felves with cudgel-playing. Gladiators, by pro-
fefTion there are, too, who exhibit in public.
But ftaves are their only weapons ; and a fmall

cuihoin

IN ARABIA, ^C. 125

cuiliion faftened under the left arm, ferves them
as a "buckler.

Through the villages, the young people a-
mufe themfelves at diverfions much the fame as
feveral of thofe which are pradtifed in Europe.
They run, leap, play at the ball, fometimes at
odds and evens, and at tolling a number of fmall
Hones into the air, and receiving them again in-
to the hand*

It is natural for a people who live in feclufion
from fociety, and infubjeäiionto arbitrary autho-
rity, to be fond of public feftivals. Thefe are
celebrated in Egypt with much pomp and ce--
remony, particularly the feftival upon the de-
parture of the pilgrims for Mecca, of which fe-
veral authors have given a defcription. The o-
ther feafts, befide this, are numerous : Each
mofque celebrates a feaft in honour of its found-
er ; upon occafion of which there is a proceffion
of perfons of all ranks ; and the people are per-
mitted to divert themfelves in an adjoining fquare.
The Copts have their feafts, as vv^ell as the Ma-
hometans, and contribute, by their ceremonies,
to the general amufement.

Thefe fellivals are fometimes celebrated by
night. The ftreets are then illuminated by the
blaze of refinous wood in a chaffing difli, held
up on a long pole. They ufe alfo another more
luminous flambeau, which is a machine confift-

ing

NlE^UHR^S TRAVELS

ing of divers pieces of light wood, to which äfi
hung a number of fmall lamps, and the whole
carried on a pole, as the former. When thefe
feftivals are celebrated by day, the people divert
themfelves upon fwings, and with other fimilar
amufements.

In Egypt, Syria, and Arabia, the favourite a-
mufement of perfons in any degree above the
very loweft claffes, is, to fpend the evening in a
public cofFee-houfe, where they hear muficians^
lingers, and tale-tellers, who frequent thofe hou-
fe^ in order to earn a trifle by the exercife of
their refpedlive arts. In thofe places of public
amufement, the Orientals maintain a profound
filence, and often fit whole evenings without ut-
tering a word. They prefer converfing with
their pipe ; and its narcotic fumes feem very fit
to allay the ferment of their boiling blood.
Without recurring to a phyfical reafon, it would
be hard to account for the general relifti which
thefe people have for tobacco ; by fmoking,
they divert the fpleen and languor which hang
about them, and bring themfelves, in a flight
degree, into the fame ftate of fpirits which the
opium-eaters obtain from that drug. Tobacco
ferves them inftead of ftrong liquors, which they
are forbidden to ufe.

This fondnefs for tobacco has rendered them
Very nice, wich refpedt to the form and materials

of

NIEBUHR'S TRAVJItS

öf their pipes. Thofe ufed by the common peo-
ple, have the bole of burnt clay, with a reed for
a ftalk. Perfons of condition have their pipes
made of fome more precious matter, and more or-
namented. They cover the ftalk with a piece of
cloth which they v/et, when the heat is exceffive, in
order to cool the fmoke, as they inhale it. Over
great part of Afia, the Perfian pipe is ufed, which^
by palling the fmoke through water, renders it
milder, and more agreeable to thofc who fwal-
low it. In Egypt, this Perfian pipe is nothing
but a cocoa nutftiell, half filled with water, with
two ftalks, one communicating with the bole,
the other entering the mouth of the perfon who
fmokes. J[erim-Kan, the prefent Schah in the
fouth of Perfia, feems to diftinguifii himfelf at
this amufement ; for the pipe that is mofi: in
fafhion, is called, after him, a Kerirn-Kan.

Smoking with the Perfian pipe ferves to warm
a perfon upon occafion, as well as to amufe.
The fmoke inhaled from it enters the lungs, and
thus communicates through the whole body a
gentle heat. In a voyage upon the Euphrates,
which I performed in winter, the boatmen were
often obliged to go into the water, to fet the boat
a-flo?t. As they dürft not drink brandy to üive
themfelves from fuffiring by the cold, I could
not do them a greater pleafure, than by giving
them ^ pipe of tobacco in this way.

Chap.

128

IN ARABIA, Cfr.

Chap. Vit

^ Games in the' Eaß.

The Koran prohibits playing for money ; and for
this reafon the Orientals feidom play at any game
of chance. The Mahometans have therefore the
happinefs of never being forced, as vi^e are in Eu-
rope, to engage, out of politenefs, in an infipid
amufement, vi^hich waftes the body, by agitating
the nnfocial and' malignant paffions ; blunts the
powers of the mind, by fixing its attention upon
ä few unmeaning combinations ; and chills the
focial ardour of the heart, by the conteft of va-
mty and intereft among the players.

However, as there are in all countries giddy
and thouglitlefs perfons, I have feen Mahome- '
tans, who might poffibly be feduced by the ex-
ample of the Europeans, play, although at a pid-
dling game, when they were not with their wo„
men. They know nothing of our cards ; but at
Bombay, I met with four Arabian merchants,
¥/ha played with Chinefe cards, fo large and
thick, that not one of the four but had enough
to do with both hands. Some young Mahome-
^an merchants, whom I furprifed playing at
Bombay, concealed their game with an appear-
ance

IN'aRABIA, ^'€k ' 129

ance of anxiety^ till thej learned that I was an
European. The Greeks are too poliflied, not
to imitate our manners ; they fhew themfelves
good Ghriftians, by playing with our cards, and
a deep game too.

The inhabitants of the Eaft have^ however,
fome games, more fuitable to their fedentary life,
and fplenetic humour, at which they play with-»
out keermefs, and merely to fill up the vacant
hours. Such are chefs, draughts, tridlrac. The
Arabic names of thefe games, and their antiqui-
ty prove them to have been originally introduc-
ed from the Eaft into Europe. If the Mahome«
tans fhew any degree of paffion for any one
game, it is for chefs, at which they fpend, fome-
times, whole days without interruption. But
thofe who enter into the game with this, keen-
nefs and ferioufnefs, are reckoned dull by their
companions. Inftead of wooden chefs-boards,
they ufe a white linen cloth, with pieces of a
different colour fewed upon it. When the game
is ended, the cloth is wrapped up, with the vic-
tors and the vanquiflied, amicably mixed with-
in it.

They have another game, which is played up-
on boards, marked with two fquares, one with-
jn another, and thefe divided diagonally,— with
Hones or fhells of different colours. This game
has found its way into Europe, where we fee

Vol. I. people

niebuhr's travels

people play at it with black and white beaiis,
There are many others, which, being lefs di-
verfified or ingenious, have not yet reached
us. Such are the Mankale^ which bears fome
refemblance to chefs ; and Tahuk Buk, in which
being a mixture of hazard, it bears fome refem-
blance to back-gammon. The hazard depends
upon the play of four broad fticks, half white
half black ; and the fides, thus differently co-
loured, determine, by their combinations, the
movement of the pieces upon the board.

A more ancient game is ftill in ufe among the
inhabitants of the Eaft. The Arabs call it Lai
el Kab ; it is played with fmall bones of fheep
ör goats ; and the value of the feveral ftrokes in
the progrefs of game is determined by the ap-
pearance of one or another of the fides of the
bone above. The elder Greek and Latin authors
fpeak of this gam.e, which muß: have given riib
l-o the ufe of the dice.

Chap. VIIl.

Of the Mujic of the Eaß.

Among the Turks and Arabs, a man of rank
would think it a difgrace to learn mufic. A cer-
tain aufterity ia their manners, too, renders this

people

IN ARABIA, ^r.

131

people infenfible to the charms of harmony. The
contempt in which the art is held, extends to its
profeffbrs ; and muficians are accordingly little
efteemed and ill paid. An art thus defpifed by
the great, cherifhed or admired hy no connoiu
feurs, and not fitted to condu6l either to fam.e
or fortune, cannot make rapid advances.

The mufic of the £aft, which is thus negle^l-
ed, is not of the fame charader as ours. It is
grave and fimple, without any complexity of
modulation. The fingers, to gratify the nation-
al tafte, are obliged to fing flow, that the fenfe
of the words may underfi:ood. I have heard
feveraf Schiechs fing fome pafiages from the Al-
coran, in an eafy, natural key. There was fome-
^hing pleafingly afiedling and folemn in thofe
pieces of mufic, joined with the words that ac-
companied them. In my voyage up the Nile,
I joined wit^ the failor§ in fin ging amorous
fongs, by alternate 'couplets, in which they com-
pared their miftrefies to the cucumbers of Damaf-
cus, and the eyes of the gazelle ; and praifed their
beautiful yellow hands, and red nails. This
chorus of fingers afforded us no fmall entertain-
ment.

Airs of that fimplicity are eanly learned by
heart. The Orientals, accordingly, ufe no notes?^
but fing by the ear. I was told, in fome pro-
vinces of Turkey, that there were in Confi:anti-

Q^2 nople

13^ NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

nople great muficians, who employed fecrec
ligns in reeolleding tunes. But, having made
enquiry concerning this, upon my return to that
capital, I could find nobody that had the llight-
eil idea of mufical notes ; not even the dervifes
of the order of Merlavi, who are, however, ef=
teemed the heil muficians among the Turks.

At Bagdad, and at Conitantinopie, I affifted
in fome concerts, which, though not to be
compared to thofe of Europe, were not ill form-
ed to pleafe an ear unaccuftomed to the intrica-
qies of the mufical art. What is mofl difagree-.
able, at firfl, is to hear all the infiruments play
in unifon ; unlefs it happen, that one or another
take the fancy to play a continued hafs, by mak-
ing an inceiTant repetition.

If the mufic of the Eafl be not to the tafle of
the Europeans, ours is not lefs difagreable to them,
MrBaurenfiend and I often played upon the violin
before Arabs of diflindion, who came to fee us.
Although they did not openly or directly exprefs
their difapprobation of our mufic, yet they faid
enough to let us underfland that it was not a-
greeable to them, and that they preferred their-
own country mufic, as more mafculinc, and con^
fequently more excellent. As we were return-
ing home in the dark one evening, during our
flay at Cairo, from aflifling at a concert with
fome European merchants^ we overheard an E°

gyptiap

IN ARABIA, ^ 133

gyptian voice fmging, and accompanied with a
flute. One of our fervantSj enchanted with the
found, exclaimed, My God I how^ fine ! God

blefs you I" We were furprifed^ and aiked
him what he thought of our concert ? " Your

mulic," replied he, is wild and difagree-^
* ■ able ; and no man of fenfe or gravity can take
" pleafure in it."

It fhould feem, from the fimple conflrudion
of their mufical inftruments, as well as from va-
rious other circumftances, that thofe are of a
very ancient origin, and have been tranfmitted
down, without undergoing any remarkable
teration. Several of them are likewife common
among the inhabitants of the illes in the Archi-
pelago ; as are alfo three different forts, with
three or four wires, called by the Greeks, Icitali^
Semari, and Baglama ; and by the Arabians,
diflinguifhed by the Generic name of Tambiiray
which is common to all mufical inftruments with
w^ires. The Greeks have a bow^ inftrument
with three catgut firings, upon which they play
wdth an wooden bow, fitted with horfe's hair,
to which they give the neceflary tenfion in play-
ing, by prefhng it w^ith the little finger ; it is
called the Lyra, Thefe inftruments are always
accompanied with the voice.

Some bow- inftruments belong in a peculiar
manner, to the Arabs ; fuch as the S einenge, a

fort

134 niebuhr's travels

fort of bad violin, joined with a drum, lu
body is commonly a cocoa nut-fliell, with a
piece of Ikin extended upon it ; three firings of
catgut, and fometimes of horfe hair, are fitted
to it ; and it is played with a bow, not lefs auk-
ward in its form than the Greek Lyra. The
Semenge is the inftrument of thofe wandering
mulicians who accompany the dancing women.
The Arabs give the name of marahha, to another
violin, with a firing of horfe's hair, and a Ikin
ftretched upon the body of the inftrument.
This violin makes a very fuitable accompani-
ment to the fhrill voices of the common fingers
in the coffee- houfes. I faw, at Bafra, another
violin, not unlike the Marabha with one firing,
too, and covered with fkin, like the drunij,.
and ufed in the fame way. At Bagdad I heard
the drum beat in the European fafhion ; a lady
at Alexandria put on fib/er nails, and beat it with
her fingers.

The Egyptians are fond of noify mufical in-
ftruments ; but the inhabitants towards the foutb.
of Africa, feem to prefer a fofter fpecies of mu-
fic. In the hands of a Barbaric or native of the
kingdom of Bongola, I faw a fort of harp that
afforded a very pleafing found. The body of
the inflrument was a piece of wood of an oval
form, hollowed, with a piece of fkin ftretched
upon it, and mounted with five catgut firings,

with

IN ARABIA, ÜC,

^3S

with a turning handle, to which thefe were fix-
ed, and by which the inftrument was tuned.
It is played either by pinching the chords with
the fingers, or by touching them with a piece
of raw leather, in the fhape of a bow. My Bar*
hari acquaintance danced while he played.
This inflrument feemed not unlike to David's
harp. The Barbari call it KuJJir ; the Arabs,
Hamhura,

Among the wind inftruments is the true Tur-
kifh flute, called Salojnanie^ and in ufe among
the 7urcoma7i fliepherds. It is entirely open^
and without any reed, fo that to wind it is no
cafy matter. This is the favourite inftrument
of the Merlam dervifes, who, as they ufe mußc
in their adls of religious worfhip, are the beft
muficians in the Eaft, and excel efpecially in.
playing on the flute. It is made either of a reed,
or of a piece of fine wood. I faw a peafant at
Cairo having Pa7i*s flute^ made of feveral differ-
ent pieces of reed. /

The Sumara is a fort of flute with two pipes,
one of which, the fhorter, is ufed for playing
airs, and the longer, in a continued bafs ; juft
like the long pipe in the Bulgarian bagpipe-
They have a bagpipe in Egypt, called Sunmra
el Kurbe ; but this is not equal to the Bulgarian
bagpipe, which affords the fineft munc I heard
in Turkey. It is true, alfo, that the Bulgarian

fliepherds

niebuhVs travels

fliepherds have already fome tafle for the mufic
of Europe.

The Afiatics are fond of accompanying their
dancing and fmging with the found of tambou-
rines, in order the better to mark the meafure.
Thefe are of different forts ; either circular
pieces of wood, or earthen pots made for the
purpafe, covered with fl^in, and founded with
the fingers. The moil elegant tambourine is
the Dö/^ to which the women dance in the ha-
rams. The cailanet is to be reckoned among
thefe muiical inftruments ; it is carried by the
-public dancing girls ; beggars, too, and fome or-
ders of mendicant Mahometan prieils, carry dif-
ferent horns and drums, which they found
when they aik alms*

The military mufic of the Turks is beginning
to be known in Europe. That which is to be
heard through the Eaft, however, affords noth-
ing but an unpleafant, jarring noife, and would
be entirely unworthy of notice, did it not ferve
to mark the diftindions of ranü. A Pacha of
three tails is preceded by a greater variety of mu=^
iical inftruments, playing martial mufic, than a
a nobleman of inferior rank dares ufe, fo that a
perfon's employment may be known by the mu-
fic which goes before him. The principal in-
ftruments ufed in thofe martial concerts, are a
fort of trumpet exceedingly noify, which is cal-
led

IN ARABIA, i^C.

^37

led in Egypt Surma : the Tabbel, or great Tiir-
kifhtabour, which is held horizontally, and ftruck
upon both fides ; a hautboy of an acute found,
and another that founds not unlike our baifoon,
Laßlv, they have plates of fonorous metal, which,
they flrikc one againft another, to mark the ca-
dence (r).

Chap. IX.

Of Dancings as it is pracijfed in the ElxJ}.

A refpeclable Mahometan, who fliould indulge
in dancing, would difgrace himfelf in the cfti-
mation of his countrymen. The women, how-
ever, -value themfelves upon excellence in
this exercife, and practife it without fcruple,
reckoning it their duty to contribute to
the pleafures of their hufbands, by every little
art in their power. When by themfelves, too,
,in an affembly confiding, only of women, on oc-
cafion of a marriage, or any other fol emni ty, they
vie no lefs than before their hufbands, in dan-
cing.

A perfon from Tripoli related to me in what
manner the- women oftbat city amufc \ '\
' upon feftive occafions, and, I have i,!
' to believe^ that the fame cuH"^' -'^ • .... tike in.
Vol. I. R. Ä'fuke^

138

niebuhr's travels

Turkey and Arabia ; however, I do not pretend
to be abfolutely certain ; for it is impoffible to
meet with an eye-witnefs of thofe amufements.
My Tripoli acquaintance had his information
from his wife, who ingenuoufly told liim what-
ever he aiked.

No woman would prefume to appear in an af-
fembly, if Ihe were not handfome and magnifi-
cently dreiTed. If the entertainment happens
to be in the houfe of a family of rank, fifty of
the greateil beauties in the city affemble, alj
dreiTed out in great fplendour. In their train^
they bring their handfomefl ilaves, who attend
in a feparate room, to take care of the coffers
containing their raiftrefTes clothes. After the
ladies have been feated for fome time, and have
been ferved with refrefliments, young girls are
called in, to divert the company with vocal and
inftrumental muiic. The moil difdnguifhed
lady in the company then rifes, dances for a few
minutes, and paffes into the next apartment, where
her Ilaves are in waiting to change herdrefs. She
lays all afide, even her flippers embroidered
with gold and fiiver, and retains only her head-
drefs and bracelets, which are richly ornament-
ed with jewels. In the mean time, the reil
dance, and in their turns leave the room to change
their drefs ; and this is fucceflively repeated, fo
longj that a lady will fometimes change her drefg

ten

IN ARABIA, ^C. 139

teil times in one night ; and put on fo many
different fuits, every one richer than another.
They drive all to command admiration ; and
their endeavours end, as among us^ in jealoufies
and grudges.

The Greek women have fo fully adopted this
piece of Eaftern luxury, that they change their
drefs on the flighteft occafions. An European
fettled at Conftantinople, told me, that he had
feen a Greek lady, the wife of one of his friends,
whom he vifited, put on five different dreifes^
in the fpace of two hours. Thefe inftances
prove the power of inftind:, and the uniformity
of the character of the fex, all over the world.

The men difdain to pradife this exercife, but
amufe themfelves fometimes with feeing dancing
girls exhibit, who go about, and dance for hire,
either in places of public refort, or in private
houfes upon feilive occalions. Thofe dancers
are called, at Conftantinople, Tfchingane or gyp-
fies, and at Cairo, Gbaße. They are young mar-
ried, or unmarried women, belonging to a fepa-
rate and defpifed clafs of the lower people, who
intermarry only among themfelves. Their pa-
rents are commonly farriers by trade. They are
attended only by one man, who plays on the
femenge, and fometimes by an old woman, who
plays on the tambourine, and appears to watch
over their conducl ; they are faid, however, not

R 2 to

14©

HIEBUHR's TRAT£LS

to be of the moft demure and rigid virtue. Yet
110 married Mahometan incurs any obloquy by
carrying them to dance in his houfe ; and they
go wherever they are well paid. But an un-
married Mahometan dares not invite them to
his houfe ; and we never met with any of them
in the houfes of any of the French merchants,
who, by a regulation of their fovereign, are all
reftri<^ed to celibacy.

At firft, we never faw them but by accident,
and in a public houfe without the city ; but, to-
wards the conclufion of our Hay in Egypt, we
had better opportunities of gratifying our curi-
ofity. A great part of the houfes in which the
Europeans live, Hand along the great canal
which pafles through Cairo : and thofe Gbaß
accordingly derive their bell profits from dancing
oppolite to thefe houfes in the canal, when it is dry,
before the opening^ of the dyke. At that period,,
we made fometimes one troop, fometimes ano-
ther dance before us. We needed fuch amufe-
ments to divert the gloomy ideas which the prof-
ped: of our departure raifed in our minds. Yet,
however much difpofed to receive entertain-
ment, they did not pleafe us at firft ; their vo-
cal and inftrumental mufic we thought horrible,
and their perfons appeared difguftingly ngiy, with
their yellow hands, fpotted faces, abfurd orna-
meßts, and hair larded with {linking pomatum.

But,.

IN ARABIA, E^^i

But, by degrees, we learned to endure them,
and for want of better, began to fancy fome cf
them pretty, to imagine their voices agreeable^
their movements graceful, though indecent^ and
their miific not abfolutely intolerable.

There is nothing peculiar in the drefs of thefe
women ; when dancing, they throw up theiF
Teils, and leave them to float on their fiioulders^
They wear a petticoat reaching fcarcely under
the knee, open behind, and fixed by a broad-
girdle with two large buttons. As they were
defcribed to me, the Tfchingane dance at Con-
ftantinople, juft like Gbaße at Cairo. Mr Baw^
renfiend made a drawing of a party of the lat-
ter, with the man who plays to them upon the
femenge, and the old woman who beats the tam^
bourine.

The Ghriftians in the Eall have different fpe,
cies of dancing and muiic, according as they be-
long to one or another nation. At Mojul, I fav>;"
Jacobites and Neftorians dance at one of thei^
feftivals. None of them all are either fo fond of
dancing, or dance well as the Greeks. They
dance round in a ring, with fo me pretty woman
leading the dance. The Wallaehians and Bul-
garians have likewife their national dances ; but
theirs are not equal to thofe of the Greeks.

It is always prudent to accommodate one's
felf to the manners and opinions of the country

in

KIEBUHR^S TRAVELS.

in which one lives. The Europeans at Conßaü»
tinople obferve not this rule. They divert them,
felves in the capital of the Ottoman empire, as
they would at Paris or London. They have nei-
ther play nor opera, but they often give m.afked
balls at Pera and Galata. The Mahometans
have an averfion for thefe amufements ; and, as
none but the very lowed among them dance?
they extend their contempt to dancers in gene-
ral, whoni they look upon as perfons of no mo-
tals or education. The promifcuous dancing of
the two fexes, which they mentioned to me with
horror^ renders our balls abfolutely deteftable in
their eyes. The Europeans, who live among
Mahometans, would be more beloved and re-
fpedled, if they did not vilify themfelves in the
^yes of the Orientals, by amufements which they
might eafily fpare.

An anecdote was told me of a Turk, who,
upon his return from Italy, where he had feen
the Carnival, imagined that the Ghriftians be-
came mad at a certain feafon of the year ; and re-
covered their wits by putting aihes on their
heads. This ftory, whether true or fid:ion, is
to be found in Montefquieu's Perfian Tales.

Chap.

IN ARABIA, <^C> 143

Chap. X

Public Shews cf the Eaß.

We did not expe£l to fee a play in Egypt : Bat
there was in Cairo a numerous company of play-
ers, Mahometans, Chriftians, and Jews, at the
time of our arrival in that city. Their appear-
ance befpoke their poverty. They played their
pieces, v/herever they were invited, for a mo-
derate hire. They exhibited in the open air.
The court of the houfe was their theatre ; and
a fcreen concealed them from the audience, when
they changed their drefles. Several European
merchants had lived long at Cairo without fee-
ing an Egyptian play ; and we therefore invited
the company to the houfe of a married Italian :
But we Vv^ere not much gratified either by the
muiic or the players.

The piece was in Arabic, I was not then
fufficiently mafter of this language to underfiand
the dialogue ; but the fable was explained to
me. The principal characler was a female ; but
was acled.by a man in v/oman's drefs, v/lio had
much to do to hide his beard, Tiiis heroine en-
ticed all travellers into her tent; and, after rob-
ing them of their purfes, caufed them to be

beaiejj

t44

niebühr's travels

beaten ofE She had already plundered a good
■maojj when a young merchant, weary of the
infipid repetition of the fame tricks,., exprefied
aloud his difapprobation of the piece. The o=-
therfpedators.toiliew that their delicacy was not
inferior to his, joined fiis expreffion of difappro-.
BatioD^ and obliged the players to Hop, although
the piece was not more than half done.

If few plays are reprefented in Cairo, pop-
pet-fhews arCj however, very common, and are
to be met with through all the ilreets. This
exhibition is reprefented upon a very narrow
Hage, a fort of box which a iingle perfon can
•eaßly carry about, and into which the perfomi-
er goes. He fends forward his figores throogli
holes in the coffer, and makes them perform the
ixeceiTary movements by iiieaos of wires paffing
through the grooves in the lid of the box. With
an inftrument in his mouth, he gives his voice
a ihrillnefs anfwerable to the lize of the fi-
gures. The whole together might merit atten^
tiODj were not the pieces, which the tafte of the
fpedlators in Cairo requires to be performed^ ab-
folutely execrable. The puppets begin by pay-
ing compliments, quarrel by degrees^ and end
with beating; one another^

The magic lanthorn is a favourite amufement
in the Eaft. I was notj however, fond of fucli
entertainments ; as their fcope was always to

IN ARABIA, ^r.

^urn the drefs and manners of the Europeans in^
to ridicule.

Jugglers are to be feen in all the more public
ilreets ; who amufe the people bv tricks that are
thought wonderful in Egypt, but would not be
reckoned fo in Europe. One of thofe feilov/s
drew great admiration by means of an intermit-^
ting fountain, the fecret of which is not under-
•fto®d in thofe countries^ and which appeared
therefore to flop and flow at his pleafure. Thofe
jugglers are paid by a voluntary contribution of
the fpeclators, but that fo moderate, that they
can fcarce live by their profeffion.

Monkies, drelTed up like human beings, con^-
tribute like wife to the amufement of the popu-
lace. They are of that fpecies which abound in
the foreft of Yemen, and difcover extraordinary
intelligence and docility. This animal feems
naturally fond of dancing. A captain, in the
fervice of the Eaft India Company, informed
me, that he had often made his drums enter
ruinous pagodas, where monkies were the fole
inhabitants ; and that, at the found of the mar-
tial mulic, even the mothers, with the young in
their arms, left their holes, and fome hundreds
of thefe animals \^)^ould join at once in a dance.
The long robes w^orn in the Eaft would be an
incommodious drefs for monkies : they are there-
fore clothed like Europeans ; a quftom which

^OL.L S encreafe^

146

NIEBÜHP?S TRAVELS

encreafes the contempt with which the Orient ak
are otherwife fufficiently difpofed to regard our
manners : A monkey, with his tail, appears to
them no unfit reprefentation of an European with
his hea^ uncovered, wearing a fword in a hori-
zontal pofition, the end of which appears be=
hind, ilTuing from beneath his clothes^ and in all
other refpeds in full drefs.

Thofe who lead about beafts for exhibition,
have often like wife affes and Iheep, whom they
have taught to perform certain little diverting
tricks. Another thing, at which we were at
firft not a little furprifed, was to fee ferpents
dance. But, upon becoming better acquainted
with the inilinds of this animal, our aftonilh-
ment ceafed. The ferpent feems to have a na-
tural tafte for founds ; at the beat of the drum^^
it raifes its head, and ere6ls its body, makings
at the fame time, a certain movement which is
called its dancing.

I faw a man of a lingular character, who ex-
hibited himfelffor a Ihew in theitreets of Cairo.
He was a beggar, who, to move compaffion, dif-
played a huge chain, which he pretended to
have borne in captivity at Malta. He enume--
rated, in a piteous tone of voice, what miferies
he had fufiered in llavery among the barbarous
Europeans. What he complained moll of, and
what feemed to excite the greateft horror in

his

IN ARABIA, ^C.

his hearers, was, that he had been obliged to
keep fwine, and to fleep at night in the fame fty
with thofe impure animals. People of fenfe, in-
deed, heard him with indignation; but his nar^
rative failed not to infpire the populace with Vxh-
horrence for the Chriflians.

Chap. XL

Zlarr'm^s of the Egyptians.

The fecrecy which is obferved with refpecPc to
every thing "^hat paffes in the harems, or regards
the women, rendered it impoffible for me to ob-
tain particular information concerning the cere-
monies of marriage among the Egyptians. I
can only defcribe what I faw in a public pro-
ceffion at Cairo, on the occaiion of a mafriage.
Mr Baurenfeind made a drawing of the pro->
ceffion.

• The bride, clofely covered from head to foot,
walked under a canopy borne by four men, be-
tween two women, who conduced her. Seve-
ral Haves walked before, fome playing on the
tambourine, others bearing fly-flaps, and others
fprinkling fcented waters. She was followed b7
a number of v/omen, and by fome muficians,

S 2 riding

NIEBUHR'S TRAVEiS

riding upon afles. A number of fervants atten-.
ded 5 and, as they pafled on, performed feats of
llrength and agility. All the women in the pro-
ceffion cried inceflantly, Ln, Lu, Lu ; an ex-
clamation exprellive of joy, among the Maho^
metans. If the procellion take place at night,
flaves attend with flambeaus.

We met, one day, an Arab bride near Alexan-^
dria. She rode upon a camel, and behind he^
followed her dowry in cattle and furniture. The
proceflion marched on flowly, and flopped fome^
times, to difplay itfelf. As it proceeded, mufic
played, guns were fired, and the women raifei
continued ihouts of joy.

SECTION

IN. ARABIA, ^.C»

MS

SECTION \\

EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES»,

Chap. L

Egyptian Antiquities in General,

Of all countries in the known world, Egypt
prefents to curious obfervation the greateft num-^
ber of monuments of remote antiquity. Vari-
ous caufes concur to give this country the ad-,
vantage in this refped: over every other part of
the globe.

A potent, rich, and enlightened people, are
naturally led to leave fome marks of their exif-
tence, and fome proofs of their profperous con-
dition that may defcend to the lateft poflerity.
We know, by the unanimous teftimony of the
ancients, that the Egyptians have been, frgm
time immemorial, a polifhed and and flourifhing
5iation, before the comparatively recent period

whicii

15.0 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

which we regard as the asra of ancient hiftory*
Three thoufand years have elapfed, lince the me-
mory of the authors of many of the celebrated
works in Egypt, was lofl from among the tradi-
tions of prieits. So ancient a people mufl un-
doubtedly have had a great fhare in the firft po-
pulation, and the civilization of the fouth of Eu-
rope. All hillorians agree concerning the fplen-
did exploits of the ancient Egyptians ; and of
fuch a people there cannot but remain fome vef-
tiges in the country which they inhabited.

It is true, that we have many decilive proofs
of the exiftence of other nations in the remote
ages of antiquity J, as powerful as the Egyptians,
and even more enlightened. Yet, of thofe nations^,
no veftige remains ; their buildings, and other
public works, are totally effaced. The country
which they cultivated and embellifhed, is, at
prefent, a barren defart, defliitute of every re-
main that might n^iark its ancient ftate, and in-
habited, or rather ravaged, by wandering barba-
rians (s).

Some phyfical caufe muft, therefore, have con-
tributed to the prefervation of the antiquities of
Egypt. Such a caufe is difcernible in the na-
ture of the climate and of the foil. The air is
dry ; rain feldom falls, and froft is unknown.
Wet and cold, therefore, whofedeflrudive agency

waftes.

IN APvABIA, i^C.

Waftes away, even the moll folid works of human
conftrudion, have here no influence.

The foil of Egypt, too, might furniih the in-
habitants with the molt durable materials fot
building. Through Lower Egypt, and in the
rifing ground on its confines, calcareous ftones
are found, of a particular fpecies and full of fmall
cavities. But, of thefe, no building, except the
pyramids, has been conftruded. In Upper E-
gypt, again, where the furface is unequal and e-
levated, are granites of all colours, the hardelt
known. The ranges of mountains are compof-
ed of granite ; and it was therefore eafy for the
Egyptians to employ in their buildings large
malTes of ftone, of a nature the moll proper to
refill the influence of all unfriendly agency,
whether phyfical or moral. The modern inha-
bitants of Egypt cannot break a column of gra-
nite, to employ it in building a cottage, as thofe
of other countries break pillars of marble, for fi-
milar purpofes.

Befides, the ancient Egyptians appear to have
fpared no expence or pains, in order to confer
durability on the works which they reared*
Their pieces of fculpture are all faiiant, and all
of a fize and folidity, unufual in the buildings
of the other nations of antiquity. The infcrip-
tions, although on fo hard a fpecies of ilone, are

fo

^5^

isriEBUHR's TRAVILS

lb deeply engraven, that the authors muii cef-
tainly have intended them never to be effaced.

Upper Egypt being more elevated than the
Löwer, mull have been firft inhabited. It feems
to have been the principal feat of the ancient
Pharaohs, who were fo powerful and magnificent;
for in it are the moil numerous and moll fuperb
monuments of antiquity ' ^ be found. Many
travellers ha » - .efcribed thefe intereiting ruins.
Pococke and Norden are the moll eminent.
They have carried their refearches fartheft, and
have given the moil exa6l and particular defcrip-
tions*

I had not great opportunity of examining the
curious antiquities of Egypt. All that I could
bring away, was a few of the figures that were
vv^orfhipped as idols, of bronze and burnt clay :
and thefe do no credit to either the tafie or the
ikill of the Egyptian artifts. In general, it ap-
pears, that this nation never excelled in the arts
of defign. Their paintings are remarkable for
nothing but glaring colours ; and their fculpture
is equally faulty in the defign^ and in the fi«
gures*

Chap.

ilf ARABIA, l^a

Chap. Ii»

t/:e Pyramidso

. Of the antiquitie| of Egypt, the moft aftonifli^
iüg, are, doubtlefs, me Pyramkl'^, The eye, if
not pleafed, is at leaft lingulariy ftruck by the
appearance of thofe enormous malTes.

The three principal pyramids are feen from
Cairo ; and every ftranger who arrives in that
capital is tempted to approach and examine
them. We have a number of defcriptions of
thefe pyramids already, and I fliall not encrcafe
the number. I fnall only mention fome obferva-
tions in which I am obliged to differ from thofe
who have gone before me.

The pyramids ftand upon the firfl hill between
Cairo and the weftern bank of the Nile, In go-
ing thither from Gee/b, \yq pafs a confiderable
arm of that river, over two beautiful bridges^
conüfting each often arches. Between the two
» bridges is a long dyke, of fubftantial mafon--
work. Several travellers reprefent the bridges
as works of the ancients. But the Arabic in-
fcriptions upon them, prove them to have been
built by the Mahometans.

Vol. I, T ' The

^54

niebuhr's travels

The travelier is aftoniflied, and feelä his ima-
gination in fome meafure expanded, when he
arrives at the foot of thofe prodigious maffes.
It is from this circumilance, I fuppofe, that the
pyramids are thought much higher, on a firil
view, than they actually are. My firfl care was
to meafure them. This I performed with all
the exadlnefs poiiible, amongft a crowd of jea-
lous and troublefome Arabs, by whom I was
furrounded ; and found the iargeft and fore-
mofl pyramid to be four hundred and forty feet.
I was furprifed to find the refult of my meafure-
ment fo different from what many other travel-
levs had given out to be the height of this pyra-
mid ; and was for fome time uneafy about com-
municating it to the public. Upon my return
to Europe, I found in the Defer iption of the plains
of Beliopolis and Memphis hy Mr Fonnnont, the
following paiTage : " Lord Charlemont, wha
arrived in Egypt, while I was there, told me,,
that he had meafured the height of the fore^
mofc pyramid, and aiTured me, that it was on-
ly four hundred and forty four feet." The
agreement of this meafurement with my own,
rendered me lefs doubtful of the corre61;nefs of
my operations.

Thofe enormous maffes are built of foft cal-
- careous flone, of the fame nature as the rock on
which they ftand. it is prefumeable, then,

that

IN ARABIA, i^C.

^55

that all the polifhed ilone has been talcen from
the fame place, and wrought at fmall expence.
The fondnefs for the marvellous, therefore, fo
common to travellers, has caufed them to mag-
nify the expence and labour which thofe moun-
tains of hewn Hone muft have coil. With the
help of natural philofophy and natural hiftory»
w^onders of all kinds are reduced to their true
value.

To enhance the high ideas w^hich they hold
out, of the magnificence of thofe monuments ;
various writers reprefent the pyramids as having
been once coated upon the outfide with marble.
But, of this, I could not, by any pains, difcover
the ilightefl vefcige. Befide the third pyramid,
indeed, fome pieces of granite are to be feen ;
but thefe are neither large, nor numerous enough,
to afford reafon for fuppofing, that even one py-
ramid could be covered w^ith them. Thofe
blocks might perhaps ferve as ornaments, and
might poffibly bear the infcriptions, of which
none are, at prefent, difcernible on the pyra^
mids.

I entered the foremofc pyramid, and examin-
ed the large chamber, with the coffer in it, of
which all travellers fpeak. But 1 did not fee
the fecond chamber, which was difcovered im-
mediately after our departure, by Mr Davifon,
who had accompanied Mr Montague into E-

T 2 gypt'

J56

niebuhr'^s travels

gypt. That chamber is thirty feet above the
ürft, and as large, but not fo lofty in the roof.

The famous Sphinx is linking Hill deeper in
the fand ; and a great part of the body is alrea-
dy buried. It feems to be formed out of the
rock upon which the pyramid Hands ; acircum-
ilance which confirms my conjeöiure concern-
ing the place from which the Hones for build-
ing the pyramids were quarried. I found the
chin of the Sphinx to meafure ten feet fix inch-
es in height ; and the whole length of the coun«
tenance nearly eighteen feet.

The memory of the authors of thefe ilupen-
duous and fantaflic monuments has been loll
fome thoufand years fince : the pyramids are vi-
fibly decaying, and mull periih in their turn ;
although, if we may judge of the future by the
paft, feverai thoufand years mull Hill elapfe be-=
fore their entire decay«

Chap. Ill

Of the Hieroglyphics.

^HE rnofl: judicious and enlightened authors of
antiquity, a part of whom had travelled in E-

IN ARABIA, l5€.

157

gypt, fpeak of this country in tlie moil favour-
able manner. They celebrate the wifdom of its
Government, and the knowledge of its inhabi-
tants. Such a country, which muft afford fo
much information concerning the earlieft revo-
lutions of human fociety, may well engage our
particular attention. It is natural for us to v^ifli
to know its hiftory and inftitutions.

That we are at prefent ignorant of all thefe
things, is not the fault of the Egyptians : no
people on earth were ever more anxious than
they to tranfmit to pofiierity the mem.ory of their
^'evolutions, and of their knowledge too, perhaps.
No country in the world contains more infrrip-
tions engraved on ftones of the mo ft durable na-
ture, than Egypt. But, this pains to inform
us has been rendered fruitlefs by the imperfec-
tion of the mode of v/riting this people employ-
ed. Inftead of characters expreflive of the diife„
rent founds in their language, or ßgns m^arking
each a iyilable, with a determinate idea affixed
to it, fuch as the Chinefe ufe ; the ancient Egyp-
tians made ufe of emblems, to mark ideas fome^
how referable to them, although by a very for-,
ced and difcant analogy. This is what we, af-
ter the Greeks, call hieroglyphic writing.

As the relation between allegorical figures and
^he ideas which they are employed to reprefent,
cannot be at all times equally evident ; and as

they

158 NiEBÜHR^S TRAVELS

tney depend often upon the way of thinking
peculiar to thofe by whom the iigns were invent-
ed, it is plain, that writing of this fort cannot be
legible v/ithout a key to explain the original
fignification of the characters. Some of the an-
cients have, indeed, explained a few of thofe
fymbols ; but we meet with an infinite number
of which nothing can be knov^^n. The hiero-
glyphics, therefore, cannot be decyphered, be-
eaiife we want the proper key.

¥/hen the T ablet of Ifis became firft known in
Europe, fome learned men attempted to explain
it by guefiing from one figure the meaning of
nether ; but their data were infufiicient.

Yet, I would willingly hope, that the key fo
thofe myflerious writings of the ancient Egyp-
tians may yet be recovered. Various learned
men have difplayed aftonifning fagacity and pe-
netration in decyphering infcriptions in unknown
languages, where there has been a conßderable
quantity of characlers for them to exercife their
conjectures upon. Travellers ihould therefore col-
lect as many as poffible of the hieroglyphic cha-
rade rs, and publifli them carefully, that we may
thus be furnilhed with more points of compari-
fon for thofe fymbols, through a greater variety
of combinations.

The fcudy of the ancient language of ^ZJ^^t
would be equally neceflary for this purpofe. I

fufpeft

iN ARABIA, l^C,

fufpe6t that the true nature of the hieroglyphics
has hitherto been miftaken, while all the fym-
bolical figures and charaders have been fuppofed
to be of the fame fort. After copying a confide-
rable number of hieroglyphics from obelifKs, far-
cophagi, urns, and mummies^ I began to think
I could perceive plainly that the large figures
were emblems of which the fmaller might afford
an explanation, i thought I could alfo diflin-
guifh, in thefe fmaller hieroglyphics, fome marks
of alphabetic charaders, or at leaft of a mixed
fpecies of writing, bearing fom.e refemblance to
the alphabetical. Wherefore, by the ftudy of
the language of the Pharoahs, we may ccme,
with more eafcj to decypher thefe fmall charac-
ters;

The hieroglyphic infcriptions are found chief-
ly in Upper Egypt, where all the monuments,,
and even the wails of thofe fuperb temples
which are ftill Handing, are covered over with in-
fcriptions of this fort. It is no lefs common up-
on the tombs of the mummies at Sahara^ The
embalmed bodies have covers full of hierogly-
phics ; and the lepulchral urns are marked witi>
them. Such as have been painted upon wood
and cloth are in as good a ffate of preiervation
as thofe which are engraven upon Hone. It h
very probable, that, in the caverns of Salcara, if

thefe-

niebuhr's travel^

thefe were examined, there are other more pre^
cious antiquities.

To colled: thefe fcattered remains, would be
a matter of great importance. But travellers
feem to have neglected this care ; or at leaft to
have mifemployed their pains upon it. They
fatisfy themfelves with examining what can be
feen for money, by paying an infidel guide.
But, they ufe no means to gain the friendfhip of
the Arabs who rule in Upper Egypt. Without
the good will of this jealous race, it muft be im-=
poffible to make fuch refearches with eafe or
fecurity. The Arabs, if cured of their natural
diilruft, would afliil, inftead of obftruding the
curious refearches of ftrangers. But a perfon,
who v/ould gain their friendfhip, mufc flay long-
er in this country than is common for that tribe
of travellers who go into Egypt, merely that
they may fay that they have been there.

Other travellers are too indolent to take the
trouble of copying thefe ft range and fantaftic
chara61ers. This taüc becamie irkfome to me
too, at firft ; but, in a Ihort time, the hierogly-
phics became fo familiar to me, that I could co--
py them with the fame eafe as alphabetic cha-
radters, and found the taik an amufement inftead
of a toiL

But one cannot engage, particularly in fuch
purfuits, without expofing one's felf to a variety

of

IN ARABIA, ^C,

of inct)nveniences among an ignorant race, who
•regard Chriilians with diftruft, and are always
ready to infult or abufe them. But we often
bring fuch troublefome accidents upon ourfelves^
by negleding to acquire a fufficient knowledge
of the manners and language of the country.

I myfelf often met with fuch inconveniences^
in copying hieroglyphics at Cairo, where tht;
people are more mifchievous in their difpoli-
tions than in the country. Going to make a
draught, at one time, of a piece of curiofi-
ty that ftruck me, I carried with me a Mui-
4ah for protedion. The ftreet in which it flood
was very much frequented ; and a crowd of peo-
ple drew round us ; but, without offering any
infult, only admired my European dexterity in
writing with a pencil without ink. A Saradgi,
however, one of a body of foldiery, fomewhat
of the charader of huflars, in the fervice of the
Beys, came up, and, to ihew Lis confequence,
attacked me with abuüve language. The Mtd^
lah advifed me to go away, before the fellow
fliould proceed to ftrike me. I returned at ano-
ther time ; and> to fecure myfelf againft a fimi-
lar interruption, gave a trifle to a faradgi, who
was Handing near. But another Ira'adgi came
up, and aiked me who had given me permiilion
to write there ? He whom I had paid, an»
fwered, " His mafler." The other replied.

Vol, L U that

502

NIEBüHr's TRAVELS

that his mafter forbade me." A third tim&j
I returned, and had nearly finiflied my copy,
without difturbance, when the Imam of a mofque
obferved how I was employed, and made a noife
that obliged me to retire. Thus fhould I have
been difappointed of my purpofe, if 1 had fuf--
fared myfelf to be difcouraged, and not oppofed
coolnefs and patience to their teazing and mif-
chievous arts.

At another time, when I was drawing Iket-
ches of fome fragments that flood before the go-
vernor's houfe, I was fuffered to proceed, with-
out interruption, for feveral hours* But at laft
« the governor fent a faradgi to carry me before
him. When I appeared, he afked my reafoii
for copying the Pharaonic infcriptions. When
I had explained it to him, he took my paper^
and fliewed it to the nobles about him, who
laughed at the vain curiofity of the Europeans.
The Saradgi carried away my paper ; and, when
I aßced it from the governor, he told me, that I
might have it from the Saradgi, when I chofe.
This I underfLood to be a hint to give the feL
low a prefcnt ; and accordingly prefented him
with a crow^n ; upon which I had my paper re-
flored, and obtained leave to copy the reft of
the infcription.

That which is the greatefl "curiofity, and con-
tains the greateft number of hieroglyphics, is, a

coffer

in 4RABIA, Is'C.

eoSer of black granite, fevcn feet long, Handing
near the old caflle, Kalla el Kahfcb, It was this
coffer that I had to come and go fo often to, be-
fore I could get a drawing of it made. Pocoke
and Maillet mention it by the name of the foun-
tain of treafures, or the fountabz of lovers. A
part of thofe infcriptions is covered over with
plafter ; for this fine piece of antiquity now
ferves as a ciftern for water. This coffer feem&
to have been the coffer of fome perfon of dif-
tindion.

A limilar coffer was dug up twenty years ago^,
and was conveyed to Cairo, to be placed in a
mofque.. But it was was broken in bringing it
alhore at Bulak, The fragments were placed a-
round a tree before the governor's houfe ; and
while they were in that iituation, I made a
draught of them.

I was told, that iimilar coffers flood at the en-
trance of feveral other mofques, containing, kiiike
manner, hieroglyphic infcriptions. But, not be^
ing permitted to approach thofe mofques, I could
learn nothing pofitive about them.

I copied the infcriptions from a broken obe-
li&, and from fomq urns of vv'hite alabafter, of
which Norden has given reprefentations. The
Erench conful permitted me to make a drawing
of a very interefling piece of antiquity at his
houfe. It was the v\7ooden lid of a cofSn that

U 2. ^ ' had,

164 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

had contained a mummy, and was covered alj
over with hieroglyphics, and with other charac-^,
ters that had fome appearance of being alphabe-
tical. But as Cairo was not the place in which
fuch infcriptions were to be found in the great-
efi abundance, >could not copy fo many of them
as I fhould have wifhed.

To facilitate the explanation of the hierogly«
phics, I have made out a table of fuch as occur-
moll frequently in all infcriptions. It may be
farther remarked, that certain figures or cha-
rasters occur oftener upon the obelilks, and o-
thers, again, upon the fragments of tombs. This
fad may be of fome ufe in helping to an under-^
{landing of the meaning which they were in-
tended to convey (u)«

SECTION

IN ARABIA, ' X$.5

SECTION YI.

jaUIlNEy FROM CAIRO TO SUEZ AND MOUK
SINAI.

Chap L

Preparations for our departure.

Although the chief obje61 of our voyage was
to vifit Arabia, we were unwillingly detained in
Egypt for nearly a year. Several circumftances
obliged us to this involuntary delay.

On account of the pretended fanctity of the
pilgrims, Chriftians are prohibited from travel-
ling to Arabia by land, with the caravan for
Mecca. They are under a neceility, therefore,
of w^aiting till the feafon when the Red Sea be-
Gomes navigable, and vefiels fail from the har-
der of Suez for Jidda.

While

NIEBUHR^S TRAVEi,3i

While we waited tliefe opportunities, we founci
it equally impoffible to vifit mount Sinai, or Jib-
hel-el-Mokatteh, the celebrated hill of in-
fcriptions, both of which we deßgned to exa-
mine. The Egyptians had been at war, during
all the laft year, with a fmall tribe of Arabs who
dwelt in the environs of Tor, which renderfed
fuch a journey impracticable before the return
of the caravan from Mecca, the condudor of
which had been commiffioned to negotiate a,,
peace with the offended Arabs.

This ß^irmifning war had arifen from the in-'.,
temperate rapacity of the Ar.abs, who gain their-
livelihood by hiring out camels, and carrying
goods between Suez and Cairo. " A number of
veßels laden with corn, are fent every year from
Egypt to Mecca. One of thefe veiTels had an-
chored near Tor, to take in water, which is bet-
ter and cheaper there than at Suez ; and the
Captain had made his v/hole crew go on {hore*
The Arabs could not reiift fach a temptation ;
but feized the Captain and the failors, and plun°
dered the veflel. While this fupply of provi-.
fions lafted, they gave themfelves little concern
about the refentment of the Egyptians. But,
when they had ufed all the corn, and dürft no
longer go to Cairo, for fear of having their ca-
mels taken from them, and being otherwife pu-
nifhed, they found themfelves much at a lofs for

tllQ-

IN Arabia, \£c.

-the means of fubiiftance. They began, there--
fore, to pillage the caravans which go and come
regularly between Suez and Cairo. They had
even the confidence to reprefent to Government,
that they would continue to rob the caravans,
till an amnefty fhould be granted them for what
was pail, and fecurity given that they and their
camels might come and go in fafety.

So feeble is the authority of the Sultan who
calls himfelf fovereign of Y.^^y'^t^ that an handful
of raggamuffins ventured to brave the pride of
the Ottoman throne, and came off with im^puni^
ty. To reilore peace and fecurity, the regency
at Cairo found themfelves obliged to empower
the Emir Hadgi to make the concefiion which
the Arabs required. The treaty was according-
ly concluded at a place where the caravan halt»
ed, on their return from Mecca.

AlTcon as v/e received notice of this event,
by the difcharge of a cannon upon the arrival of
a courier with the news ; we immediately pre-
pared to fet out. Preparations for fuch a jour-
ney as that which vre prcpofed to make, would
not occafion much trouble in Europe : but in
the Eafl, make a very ferious and difficult con^
cern. They merit a place here : for an account
of them m.ay contribute to the fuller reprefen-
tation of the manners of the Eait, and will Ihev*/

klEBUHR^S TRAVELS

what a variety of means mull there be employ-
ed to obtain the common conveniences of life.

A traveller, although he know a little of the
language, cannot want fervants, who mull have
been previoufly in thofe parts which he means
to vifit. With fuchj we were ill provided.
Our Swedifh fervant was as much a ftranger
we ourfelves ; we had a Greek cook who had
lived long enough in CairOj but had never been
out of Egypt ; an interpreter to affifl: ourphyfician
in his pradtice, who was a renegado Greek, and
had never travelled before ; and a young Jew
of Sana, who had before travelled the fame road
upon which we were entering, but was regard-
ed with fovereign contempt by the Mahometans^
on account of the nation to which he belonged.
None of thefe could be of much of fervice to us,
ill our intercourfe with the Arabs.

We had fo much the more occafion to fupply
ourfelves carefully with provifions and articles
of furniture i fome of which might be ufed^
with advantage in Europe, in military expedi-
tions. In the defarts through v/hich we were
to travel, tent and beds were indifpenfibly ne-
ceiTary. We had a neat colle6lion of kitchen u-
teniils made of copper, and tinned without and
within. Inflead of glaiTes which are fo liable to
"be broken, we ufed alfo copper bov/ls complete-
ly timied. A bottle of thick leather fervsd us

as

IN ARABIxS Ciff. 169

as a caraffe. Our butter we put up in a leathern
jar. In a wooden box, covered with leather,
and parted out into flielves, we ftored our fpice-
ries of all forts ; and in another fimilar box, we
laid our candles ; in the lid of the latter, we fix^
cd an iron focket which ferved us for a candle-
Hick. We had large iantborns of folded linen,
with the lid and bottom of white iron. For a
table^ with table linen, we had a round piece of
leather, with iron rings at certain diftances round
it, through which cords were palTed, after our
meals, and the table hung, in tiie form of a purfe,
upon one of our camels*. But we inrprudently
put our wine into great flaiks, called in the Eafl
Bamasjanes^ and large enough, each of them to
contain twenty ordirnaiy bottles. I'hefe vafes
are very liable to be broken by the jolting cf the
camels,, as we found by the lofs of a part of oar
wine. It is much better to put your wine^ when
you are to carry it upon camels,, into goat's Iki^a
bottles. This fpecies of veffels, may, at firft
appear little fuitable lor the purpofe; but they
communicate no bad tafle to the liquor, if the
ikins have been properly drelTed. The fame
veflels anfwer befh to carry the llore of water
that is requißte in traveiUng through dry and
defart countries.

My companions hired horfes. But I, cut of
euriolity,. preferred a dromedary^ and found n©

Vol L X reafon

170 niebuhr's travels

reafon to repent of my choice. On a camel, th^
faddle is always open above, that it may nothure
the bunch of the animal ; but a dromedary's
faddle is made like a horfe's, and covers the-
bunch. The dromedary, as well as the camel^
kneels to receive a load, or a rider upon his back.
At a certain lignal, he droops his head and neck,
fo that one can alight and remount whenever
there is occaßon, wtthout making the animal
Hop. I fpread my bed clothes upon my faddle,
and was thus enabled to change my pofture^
and to feat myfelf fo as to avoid the dired: im-
pulfe of the fun's rays. A dromedary walks
with long and regular fteps, and the rider, of
confequence, feels the motion no otherwife than
if he were rocked in a cradle. When my com-
panions, who rode on horfeback, were weary and
faint by the fatigue of riding, and by the excef-^
five heat, I found myfelf as little fatigued as
if I had litten all day at my eafe, in a chaifco

Chap. IL

Voyage J'rom Cairo to Suez.

The caravan with which v/c had defigned to
travel, waited a long while for the cohclufion of

peacQ^

IN ARABIA, t^'C, 171

peace between the Governors of Egypt and the
Arabs of Tor. A difcharge of cannons, on the
27th of Augufl 1762, gave us notice of the re-
turn of the caravan from Mecca, and, by confe-
quence of the coixlufion of a peace, which
would render the road fecure, by which we were
to travel. We went immediately to find the
Schiech from whom we had hired our beafts for
the journey. He had pitched his tent near the
village of Seriagus, where he, with his party^
lay encamped, till we Üiould find it proper to
fet out. But no body muft ftir on that day.

When large caravans pafs through the terri-
tories of the independent Arabs, they have at
their head a Caravan-Bafchiy whofe bufinefs is
to guide the caravan, and to treat with the prin«
ces who may exa6l duties for the liberty of paf-
fing through their dominions. This chief regu-
lates the departure of the caravan, its journies,
and the times at which it is to reft. But fmall
caravans, fuch as öurs, whofe expeditions are
fhort, have no fuch guide. The chief merchant
in the party, always halts and proceeds as he
pleafes, and the reft follow his example. When
none of the merchants in the company is confi-
derable enough to have this influence, the Arab
who has moft beafts of burden, regulates the reft.
We did not know the precife time at which we
X 2 were

172 NIEBUHr's TRAVElS

v/ere to let out, till the 28th of Aiiguft, when
we faw troops of paflengers begin to move.

Our caravan had no very formidable afped»
Beingin hafte to fet out from Cairo, before the
great caravan, which goes always to Suez, imme-
diately after the departure of the velTels, we had
not more than forty camels which were loaded
with corn and materials for building. Three
or four camels were employed in carrying an
anchor. I have already had occafion to remark^'
that carriages are unknown in Egypt and Ara-
bia.

We could not have been very formidable to
any that might have been difpofed to attack us.
Our camel-drivers, who were but few, carried
broken guns, and rufty or pointlefs fabres. A.
few Schiechs, indeed, to whom the moft of our
camels belonged, carried complete armour, and
rode upon dromedaries. But we could not truft
to them for defence ; for no Arab will willingly
rif^ his life to fave a Turk. It was our part,
therefore, to keep in the middle of the caravan^
and on no account to leave them, or encamp a-
part, unlefs we wiftied to be plundered. In
fome places, where the danger was leaft, my
comrade and I ventured to go before the main
body of the caravan^ to reft and enjoy purer air
for a little*

Leaving

IN ARABIA, 273

Leaving Senagus on the evening of the 28th
of Auguft, we paiTed near by a large village^
called Hanjke, after which we returned into the
great road, and about eleven at night, encamp-
ed in a place, named Fl Urn hehad. The great
road confifls of a number of parallel paths, form-
ed by camels who travel in files, juft as they
pleafe. Two miles from Cairo^ we faw a fquare
area inclofed within a wall, feveral feet highj,
in which the principal inhabitants of Cairo af-
femble to receive the Emir Hadgi, at his return
from Mecca. From this place to Adgemd, with-
in four leagues of Suez, the country is abfolute-
ly a defart ; for the fpace of three and twenty
leagues, neither houfes, water, nor the fmalleft
fpot of verdure being to be feen.

On the morning of the 29th, we decamped
arly, after taking a very flight refrefhment.
We travelled omvards, thirteen leagues, crolTed
the mountain of Wehbe ; and about funfet, en-
camped near the hill ofTaja. The great caravan
from Mecca had pafTed on the preceding night ;
but they travelling farther than we to the
fouth, we had, in confequence of this, failed to
meet them.

On the 30th of Auguft, likewife, we fet out
early, and proceeded to Adgerud, where travel-
lers are induced to halt, by finding water fit for
drinking. Adgerud is a fmall cafile, that has

been

174

niebuhr's traVels

been built by the Turks for the proteÖion of
the road, and th^ prefervation of the Veils be»
tween Suez and the entrance into the defart*
Although built only about the end of the fix-
teenth century, it is now ruinous^ Within three
hours, we reached Bir Suez, where are two deep
wells, furrounded with walls, and Ihut up with
llrong gates, to exclude the Arabs from the wa-
ter. This water, although bad, and almoll un-»
fit for human ufe, is however precious to the
inhabitants of Suez, as it ferves for their cat-
tle. It is drawn from the wells in leathern
buckets. Bir Suez being only ^ league from
Suez, we reached that city in good time. By
my obfervations, it is thirty two ordinary
leagues, or three and twenty German miles from
Cairo.

Caravans ufed formerly to travel by Koßmn, a
city that ftood farther to the north of the Ara-
bic gulf, and of which confiderable ruins ilill
~ remain. In former times, üiips entered the har-
bour of this city^ which was famous among the
Arabians. But the waters of the Red Sea hav-
ing here fubfided within their ancient limits, this
harbour was of necefTity deferted, and that of
Suez conilruaed. It appears, from the rela-
tions of the earlier travellers, that the city of
Suez was not in exiftence in the end of the fif«
teenth century. It is firft mentioned in the be-
ginning of the fixteenth century, and Suez is

therefore

IN ARABIA, ^C. 175

therefore to be confidered as a city of modem
origin.

Chap. IIL

■ Of the City of Suez»

The city of Suez ftands upon the wefteni fide,
but not juft upon the weftern extremity, of the
Arabic gulf. It is not furrounded with wails;,
but the houfes are built fo clofely together, that
there are only two palTages into the city, of
which that neareft the fea is open, the other
fhut by a very infufficient gate. The houfes are
very forry ftrudures ; the kans being the only
folid buildings in the city. Hardly any part
now remains of the caftle which the Turks built
upon the ruins of the ancient Koifum.

It is very thinly inhabited. Among its inha-
bitants are fome Greeks, and a few families of
Copts. But^ about the time of the departure of
the fleet, it is crow^ded with ftrangers.

The ground lying around it is all one bed of
rock, fiightly covered with fand. Scarce a plant
is to be feen any wehere in the neighbourhood^
Trees, gardens, m.eadows, and fields, are entirely
unknown at Suez. Fifli is the only article of pro^

V ill on*

175- ' NIEBUHIl's TRAVELS

vißons plentiful here. All other neceflaries of
life, for both men and the domeflic animals^= ar«
brought from afar ; from Cairo, v/hich is three
days journey diftant from Suez ; Mount Sinai^
at the diftance of fix days journey ; or Ghaffo, a^
the diftance of feven.

At Suez, there is not a fingle fpring of water*
That at Bir Suez is, as I have already obferved^
fcarcely good enou^ for cattle ; but it is drawn
to Suez twice a-dat for their ufe. The water of
the pretended well^ of Mofes is ftill worfe ; and
befides, theie wells ly at a league and a half's
diftance, on the other fide of the Gulf. The
only water fit for drinking that is to be had here^.
comes from the wells of Nabay upon the other
fide of the Gulf, and more than two leagues dif-
tant from Suez. The Arabs are the carriers ; and
they feli this water at the rate of nine French
fols a Ikin ; but, though reputed the beft, it is.
ftill Very bad.

Ship-buiiding is the chief employment of the
inhabitants of Suez : Although wood, and iron,
and all the other materials, are to be brought
from Cairo upon camels, and are, of confequence,
very dear, I know not the precife number of
Yeftels annually employed in the navigation be-
tween this port and Jidda : I was informed that
four or five are freighted by the Stiltan with corn
for Mecca and Medina, which they convey to

Jiddm

IN ARABIA, iSc. 1^7

Jidda and Janiho ; and that fourteen others
ferve to carry paifengers between Jidda and Su-
ez. The Ihips built at Suez have a very auk-
ward rudder, made of a large beam, the ufe of
which is dangerous and inconvenient. I faw a
veiTel in this harbour of a different conflrudion,
which had been built at Surat. So durable was
the wood of which it was formed, that, although
it had been in confcant ufe for twenty years, it
was ftill in a perfectly found ftate.

The governor of Suez was a Bey from Cairo >
and he kept a very numerous houfliold. This
employment placed him in a fort of honourable
exile ; and being therefore very delirous of re-
turning to the capital, he liftened eagerly to any
predictions refpeäiing the period' of his return
thither. He afiured us, that a learned Mufml-
man had foretold the time when he was to be
recalled ; and he wilhed us to confuit the un-
known infcriptions in the defert, and fee whe-
ther they might not confirm the prediction of
the prophetic MulTulman. We excufed our-
felves, as ignorant of the fublime fcience which
ynveils futurity. This Bey was a Mahometaa
by birth, and the fon of a fugar merchant»

YoL. I. Z Chap--

178

niebuhr's travels

Chap, IV.

Particulars concermng the Arabs in the neighhourhcod of

Suez»

The Arabs who live about 7or, upon tbe othet
fide of the Gulf, are little afraid of the Turkifh
governor of Suez. When diffatisfied with him^
or with the inhabitants of the city, they threat-,
en to bring no more water, and forbid them to
come near the wells of Naha, Thefe threats
if carried into execution, would reduce the city
to the laft extremities ; and all means are, there-*
fore, ufed to pacify them. They might eafily
ruin this city, if. they could refolve to give up
the profits which tDey derive frpm the carriage
of goods upon their camels from Cairo to Suez«
We ourfelves experienced the infolence of thefe
Arabs. The Schiechs, whom we had hired to
condud us to Mount Sinai, not having fulfilled
their engagement, we refufed, upon our return
to Suez, to pay the whole fum that had been
- ftipulated. They threatened to kill us : We
let them know that we were able to defend our*
fclves. They then declared that they would
deprive us of the water of the Naba. Mr Von

Haven

IN ARABIA, Wc.

llaven replied, that this was a matter of no con-
fequence to Europeans who drank wine ; an
anfwer which moved the Turks to laugh at the
expence of the Arabs, But, as their tribe ef-
poufed their quarrel, it was ferioufly feared that
they might execute what they threatened, and
reduce the city to diftrefs for want of water.
Wherefore, the governor begged us to termi-
nate the difference, and pay the Shiechs what
they demanded.

One thing that we had in view in our jour-
ney, was, to examine the Hill of Infcriptions in
the defart ; and we were, therefore, defirous of
receiving all poffible information concerning fo
remarkable a place. On this occalion, we
difcovered a cufliom of the Arabs, which de-
ferves explanation, becaufe it is connected with
their manners.

On our arrival at Suez, we applied to fome
Greeks for information concerning that hill. But
ßone of them had ever heard of the name of
Jibbel el-Mokatteb. They direded us, how-
ever, to a Schiech of the tribe of Said, who had
paifed his life in travelling between Suez and
Mount Sinai. That Schiech was equally a
ftranger to the name of the Hill of Infcriptions.
But, underftanding that we would give a confi-
derable reward to the perfon who fliould guide
us thither, he returned next day with another

X 2 Schiech,

18©

NI^BUHR'S TRAVELi

Schiech, of the tribe of Saccalha, who pretend-
ed to have a particular knowledge, not only of
that mountain, but of all other places in the de=
fart where infcriptions were to be met with*
By his anfwers to our queflions, however, we
foon faw that he knew as little as the former
of the place which we wifhed to vifit.

At laft, a Schiech of the tribe Leghat was
brought us, who, by his converfation, con-
vinced us, that he had feen ftones infcribed with
unknown charaders. When he learned that the
objcd of our curiofity was called Jibhel-el-Mo-
katteb, he afliired us that this was the name of
the mountain among all the Arabs who knew
it.

Pleafed with finding, at length, an inhabitant
of the defart, at ieaft, who could guide us to the
place where the infcriptions were to be feen ;
we determined to take him for our conductor,
efpecialiy becaufe his abode, as he told us, was
near to that mountain. But the other two
Schiechs, who had brought us the latter, warm-
ly oppofed our purpofe, and infifted upon accom-
panying us, as well as he. The inhabitants of
Suez, advifed us to take them all three, and told
us, that we could not travel the defart in fafety,
without having guides from every one of the
three tribes, that inhabited the country between
Suez and Mount Sinai*

This

In ARABIA, ^Ch

This ad dee referred to the cuflom above-
inentioned, which renders Arab guides or Gba -
Jirs neceflary. Any perfon, whether Chriftian
or Mahometan, who travels either by fea or land
along the coaft of Arabia Petraea, clioofes a Gha-
ßr, a guide, or protector, to whom he makes pre-
fents, either from time to time, in the courfe of
his journey, or at leaft upon his fafe return. He
thus travels fecure and unmolefted. If the vef-
fel in which he fails, happens to be fhipwrecked, i
it is plundered by the Arabs ; but his Ghoßr^
if prefent, faves his goods from pillage. If the
perfon whom he names as his Ghaßf\ be abfent,
his property/ is however, fet apart. But, if he
have no Ghaiir, or name a f ccitious one, he is
plundered, without regard to his rank or charac»
ter. The Turkiih merchants, from avarice, to
fpare a trifling prefent, or from pride, to avoid
aiTociating with an Arab Schiech, feidom take
Ghafirs, but they fuffer for the negied. For
thefe rights of hofpitality and friendfhip are held
facred among thofe Arabs.

Vv^e therefore took with us the three Schiechs,
to guide us to Mount Siiiai. They fapplied us
with camels for ourfelves and pur fervants. To
prevent difputes, we had our contrad written
out by the Cadi of Suez, in the prefence of the
Governor.

Chap,

NiEBUtiR^S TRAVEL!

Chap. V.

journey from Suez to Mount Si/iaL

were anxious to fet out, that we might re--
turn to Suez before the firft ftiips fliould fail, in
the beginning of Odober. In the fücteeding
months, the paffage to Jidda becomes too dan-
gerous. But our painter, Mr Baurenfiend, had
fallen ill, immediately after our arrival at Suez,
from the exceffive fatigues which he had under-
gone. Although his affiftance was necelTary in
our expedition, yet Mr Von Haven and I refol-
ved to fet out by ourfelves, leaving MeiTrs For-
Ikal and Cramer at Suez, to take care of our fick
friend.

On the 6th of September 1762^ we croiTed the
gulph, and fet out next morning with our Arabs,
Befide the three Schiechs and their fervants, wc
were accompanied by feverai of their friends^
who had, for fome time, carried water from the
Wells of Naba to Suez, and were now going to
fee their friends in the defart, hoping to live at
our expence by the way. It is a rule with thefe
people, that an Arab of diftindion, travellings
mull maintain all who choofe to accompany

him;,

IN ARABIA,

183

bim, whether it be at his own defire or not. We,
as we lived at fome expence, were thought to be
very rich.

The firft day we travelled along the eoaft of
the Arabic gulph, through a fandy plain, having
3 few hills fcattered over it. The Arabs calj
fuch plains, when they ly fome what low, Wadi^
or vallies, becaufe water remains ftagnant in
them, after heavy rains. We relied under a
palm-tree, in a place called Aljnm Miifa^ Mofes^
fountains. Thefe pretended fountains, are five
holes in the fand, in a well of very indifferent
water that becomes turbid, whenever any of it
is drawn. As the holes bear the name of Mofes

a

the Arabs afcribe them to the Jewißi law-giver.
After a day's journey of five German miles and
a half, we encamped on the fand, in the plain of
El-Ti, In the evening, a violent blaft of wind
raifed the fand about us, by which we were not
more incommoded than a fimilar incident would
have incommoded us inEurope.

The country through which we palTed, is fa-
mous as the fcene of the emigration of the Jews,
under Mofes. We were therefore defirous of
learning from the Arabs, the names of all the
places, and of all the mountains, efpecially in
our way. Mr Von Haven who could not refolve
to make himfelf familiar with the Bedouins,
could obtain nothing but vague and uncivil an«

fwers

IC)4 KIEBUKR^S TRAVELS

fwers from them. I again fought to gain tlie
confidence and friendfhip of one of thofe Arabs^
by making him fome prefents, and caufing him
to ride fomttimes behind me upon my cameL
From him I received honeft and diftind anfwers.
To the objeds which I pointed out to him, he. ,
gave the fame names coming as going. I like-
wife meafured the diftances of places, by count-
ng the ileps of the camel, and comparing the
number with the time in which they were tra-
velled, by my watch. By means of a gompafs^
I diftinguifiied, likewife, the diredions of the
road. None of the Arabs underftood the na-
ture of this inftrument. It is plainly^ there-='
fore, an idle tale, that they follow the direclion
of the compafs, in travelling through their de-
farts.

On the 8th of September, we travelled through '
the plain of Girdan, We faw, on our way, ar^
enormous mafs of rock, that had fallen from a
neighbouring mountain. We entered next the
valley of GirG?idel, and, after proceeding five
miles and a half farther, found ourfelves in the
vicinity of Jihhel Haminem Faurum, Next day,
fending our fervants forward, we ourfelves flay-
ed to examine thefe environs. In the rainy fea-
fön, a confiderable torrent runs through the val-
ley of Girondel. It was at this time dry ; yet?
by digging in the bed, to the depth of two feet^

we-

IN ARABIA, i^C. 185

we found better water than that which is ufed
at Suez. This valley not being deficient in wa-
ter, has in it feveral trees, and even groves, that
appear fingularly ftriking to travellers from Cai-
ro, who have feen no fimilar appearance in the
previous part of their journey.

Hammam Faraun is the name of a hot fpring
which rifes by two apertures out of a rock, at
the foot of a high mountain. It is ufed in baths
by the neighbouring fick, who commonly ftay
forty days for a cure, during which their only
food is but a fruit, called Lajfaf, which grows
here. An extenfive burying place near the
baths, fuggefted doubts in my mind of the bene-
ficial eSeds of this regimen. The tradition that
the Jews pafied.this way, and that Pharaoh's ar-
my was drowned here, has occafioned this place
to receive the name of Birket-eLFaraun, The
Arabs imagine that Pharaoh is doing penance
at the bottom of this well, and vomits up the
fulphureous vapour with which the water is im-
pregnated.

This Eaflern fide of the Arabic gulph, is tole»
rably level and uniform. But the oppofite fide
is one range of lofty mouutains ; broken, how»
ever, and divided by two vales, by one of which
we mufi: pafs in travelling from Egypt to the
fiiore of the Pved Sea.

Vol L a a' ' We

iB6

KIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

We turned by degrees towards the north-eaftj
in purfuing the dired: road to Mount Sinai, and
at length entered a narrow vale, which appear-
ed to have been cut by the torrents, in the rock.
The mountains which rofe upon every fide of us^
in uninterrupted chains, were maifes of a fort
of limeftone intermingled with veins of granite»
In feveral places through them, I difcovered a
quantity of putrified fhells, of a fpecies which
is to be found with the living Ihell-fifh in it, in
the Arabic gulph One of thoie hills is entire-^
ly covered with flints. The granite becomes
more and more plentiful, as we approach Mount
Sinai. '

Our road lay often along the brink of precipices,
commonly through ftony glynns, and fometimcs
through wide vallies, watered and fertile. Such
"were Ufaitu, El Hamer^ and Warjan, We paf-
fed, alfo, in our w ay, by Nafie, the feat of fome
Bedouins of this country. As water was fome-
times at a diilance from the places where we
encamped, our fervants were obliged to go to
bring it. We could have wiflied to accompany
them, in order to fee a little of the country ; bEt
our guides would not always permit us.

After palTmg through the valley of Warfan^ -
we turned a little out of the highway, and in the
fame evening reached the abode of our chief of
the tribe of Leghat, As it could not be far from

Jibbel

IN Arabia, ^c. • 187

Jibbei el Mokatteb, I began to hope that I might
take this opportunity of going thither. But the
converfation of the Schiech made me foon give
up that hope. In my defcription of this moun-
tain, which I did not fee till my return, the
reader will find an account of what happened to -
me upon this occafion»

The Schiech had given notice of his arriva|
to fever al of his friends, who, to the number of
ten or twelve, came to fee him. I left him to
entertain his gueits, and in the mean time rang-
ed over feveral hills in the neighbourhood. I
faw by accident, in a fequeftered fpot, a wretch-
ed tent, the dwelling of our Schiech, in which
were his wife and filler, bufy grinding corn.
One of the women came out of the tent, to pre-
fent me with a bit of gum, and did not refufe a
fmall piece of money in return. At a little far-
ther diftance, I met the Schiech's fon, who was
tending goats, and converfed with him for a con->
fiderable time, I was furprifed at the fenfe^
gravity, and affurance of the child, who feeraed
to be, in no degree, embarralTed by the prefence
of a ftranger. He invited me very kindly to
the houfe, to drink fome excellent water which
had been drawn on that fame day from the welL
I. had here an opportunity of remarking the re-
lation between language and manners. A tent^
of which the original Arabic name is Cheime, is,
A a 2 however^

288

niebühr's travels

however, called by thefe Bedouins, Beit, whicli
iignifies boufe ; becaufe they ha«ve no other hou-
fes than tents.

Moll of our Schiech's friends were dillinguifh-
ed by the fame title of Schiech, although no-
wife fuperior in their air or drefs, to the vulgar
Arabs. I hence fuppofed the title to mean no
more among the Arabs, than Malier, or Sir, with
us.

Being determined to proceed on to Mount
Sinai, we fet out from the dv^^eliing of our Schiech
of Beni Leghat, on the 12th of September. The
country became more mountainous, as we advan-
ced. Yet we paiTed through fome pleafant val-
lies ; fach were thofe of Cbamela, Babur\ Barak^
and Genna, Before reaching the vale of IJraitu^
which, although furrounded with rocky and pre^
cipitous mountains, difplays fome rich and cheer-
ful proiped;s, we were obliged to go over ano-
ther lofty and ahrioft inacceffible hill.

In this vale we met an Arabian lady attended
by a fervant. In refpecl to our Schiech, fhe
quitted the road, alighted from her camel, and
paifed us on foot. Another woman veiled, and
walking on foot, who happened to meet us in fo
narrow a part of the valley of Genna, that fhe
could not avoid us, fat down as we palled, and
turned her back upon us. I gave her the falu-
tation of peace ; but my con^duclors told me, that

fhe

ilie had turned her back in refpecl to us as gran-
gers, and that I had done v^rong in faluting
her. '

At the diftance of nearlj feven German miles
from the dwelling of our Shiech of the tribe of
Leghat, we found the abode of our other Schiech
of the tribe of Said. The latter was as little
v/illing as the former had been, to pafs fo near
his family without feeing them. "We v^^ere a«
gain therefore obliged to leave the highway, and
to follow our condudor half a league out of the
road. The Arabs fet up our tents near a tree,
in the valley of Faran, and left us to amufe our-
felves there, in the beft manner wis could, till
they v/ent to fee their friends in gardens of date-
tree^, fcattered over the valley. V/e w^ere at
no great diftance from our Schiecli's camp^
which confided of nine or ten tents. V/e were
informed that the ruins of an ancient city were
to be feen in the neighbourhood. But, when
the Arabs found us curious to viiit it, they left
us, and would give us no farther account of it.

The famous valley of Faran, in which we nov^
were, has retained its name unchanged fince the
days of Mofes, being ftill called Wadi Faran^
The Valley of Faran, Its length is equal to a
journey of a day and a half, extending from the
foot of Mount Sinai to the Arabic Gulf. In the *
rainy feafon, it is filled with water ; and the

inhabitants

tgÖ . I^IEBÜHR's TRAVELS

inhabitants are then obliged to retire up the hills :
It was dry, however, when we paffed through
it. That part of it which we faw was far from
being fertile, but ferved as a pafture to goats^
camels, and affes. The other part is faid to be
very fertile ; and the Arabs told us^ that, in
the diilridis to which our Ghaiirs had gone,
were many orchards of date trees, which pro-
duced fruit enough to fuftain fome thoufands of
people. Fruit muil, indeed, be very plenteous
there : for the Arabs of the valley bring every,
year to Cairo an ailonifliing quantity of dates,
raiiins, pears, apples, and other fruits, all of ex-
cellent quality.

Some Arabs, who came to fee us, offered us
frefh dates, which were yellow, but fcarcely ripe.
The chief our Schiech's wives, (for he had two)
came iikewife to fee us, and prefented. us v/ith
fome eggs and a chicken. The two wives of
our Schiech prefided over two different depart-
ments of his affairs* One was placed at fome
diftance where our tents happened to be pitch-
ed, in order to manage a garden of date-trees.
The other w^as our neighbour, and fuperintend-»
ed the cattle and the fervants. The latter would
not enter our tents ; but fat down, near enough
by to converfe with us. She complained of her
hufband, who neglecled her, ihe faid, for her
rivaly and fpent all his time in drawing water

IN ARABIA, Uc.

in Egypt) ill carrying articles of merchandizq
from one place to another. Our law, bv which
every man is confined to one wife, appeared to
her admirable. This was the firft opportunity
I had of con verfing, without refi;raint, with a
Mahometan female.

We left this place on the 14th of September,
and, after travelling two miles farther, in the
valley of Faran^ arrived at the foot of Jihhel Mu-
fa. Up this mountain we afcended a mile and
a half, and encamped near a large mafs of ilone,
which Mofes is faid by the Arabs to have divided
into two, as it at prefent appears, v/ith one blow
pf his fw^ord. Among thofe mountains we found
feverai fprings of excellent water, at which,
for the firfi: time fince my arrival in Egypt, I
quaffed this precious liquid with real fatisfac-
tion«

■ Chap. IV.

Of Mount Shmi, and the Convent of St Catherine.

The Arabs call Ji.bbel Mufa, Tbe Mount of
Mofes, all that range of mountains v/hich rifes
at the interior extremity of the valley of Faran ;

and

192

niebuhr's travels

and to that part of the range on which the con-
vent of St Cath arine ftands, they give the name
of I'ur Sina. This fimilarity of name, owing^
Hiofl probably, to tradition, affords ground for
prefomption, that the hill which we had now
reached was the Sinai of the Jews, on which
Mofes received the law. It is, indeed, not ea-
fy to comprehend, how fuch a multitude of
people, as the Jevv/s, who accompanied Mofes
out of Egypt, could encamp in thofe narrow
gullies, amidft frightful and precipitous rocks.
But, perhaps, there are plains, that we know
not of, on the other fide of the mountain.

Two German miles and a half up the moun-
tain, flands the convent of St Catharine. The
body of this monaftery is a building one hun-
dred.and twenty feet in length, and almoft as
many in breadth. Before it (lands another fmall .
building, in which is the only gate of the con-
vent, which remains always' ihut, except when
the bifhop is here. At other times, whatever
is introduced within the convent, whether men
or provifions, is drawn up by the roof in a baf-
ket, and with a cord and a pulley. The whole
building is of hewn ftone ; which, in fuch a de-
fart, muft have coil prodigious expence and
pains.

Before the convent is a large garden, planted
with excellent fruit-trees. The Arabs told us,

that

IN ARABIA, i^Co

lliat the monks enter it by a fubteirraneous paf-
fage.

Thefe Greek ecclefiafticä are not allowed to
receive an European without an order from the
bifhop of Mount Sinai, who refides ordinarily
at Cairo.' He had promifed us a letter, but had
fet out, without our knowledge, to Conftanti^
nople. By the favour of the Engliüi ambaffa«
dor at Conftantinople, we had obtained another
letter from a depofed patriarch, who had refid-
ed three years in the convent of St Catharine.
Believing that this letter might be fufficient to
gain us admittance, wt prefented it to thofc
clergymen, through a fmall chink in the wall.
They took fome time to conlider, and, af=.
ter making us wait long, let us know that they
could not receive us, as we had not a letter from
their biJhop.

During this parley, many Arabs, who had
obferved us from the neighbouring hills, gather-,
ed round us. They are paid a. certain fum for
every ftranger that is received into the convent*
When the bifliop happens to be prefent, the
gate is opened, and the convent mull entertain
all the Arabs v^^ho come in then. This cuf-»
tom is very burthenfome to thofe poor monks,
who have nothing but alms to live upon ; and
have their provifions, which they are obliged to
bring from Cairo, often ilolen by the way. The

Vol L B h Arabs

194

niebuhr's tiiav±:l§

Arabs are in general very dangerous neighbours.
They often fire upon the convent from the ad-
jacent rocks. They feize the monks whenever
they happen to find them without the walls of
the monaftery, and refufe to releafe them, with-
.out a confiderabie ranfom. We witnelTed the
infolence of one of thofe Bedouins, who uttered
a thoufand abufes againft the inhabitants of the
convent, becaufe they would not give him bread
at the very inftant when he afked it in a roguifti,
counterfeit tone of diilrefs.

That we might not occafion uneaiinefs to
thofe monks, we retired^ and encamped at a
quarter of a league's diftance from the monafte-
ry. As a recompence for our difcretion, they
immediately fent us a prefent of fruits. Grapes
could not but be delicious to perfons like us,,
who had travelled fo long in parched and uncul-
tivated regions.

I v^ifhed to chufe from among the Arabs who
had gathered about us, a guide to condud me to
Sinai. This, however, our Ghaiirs would not
permit ; which occaiioned a quarrel among them
and the other Arabs. Next day, however, our
Schiechs brought me an Arab, whom they qua-
lified v^ith the title of Schiech of Mount Sinai^
ti procure him fome profit from us, by the right
w^hich he then arrogated to himfelf of attending
flrangers who came to vifit the mountain.

Under

IN ARABIA, UCu

Under the condu6l of this newly created Lord
of Sinai, with our Schiechs, I attempted, on this
fame day, to clamber to the fummit of that
mountain. It is fo fteep, that Mofes cannot
have afcended on the fide which I viewed. The
Greeks have cut a flight of fteps up the rock,
Pococke reckons three thoufand of thefe fteps to
the top of the mountain, or rather hare, pointed
rock.

Five hundred fieps above the convent, we
found a charming fpring, which, by a little
pains, might be improved into a very agreeable
fpot. A thoufand fteps higher ftands a chapel
dedicated to the BleiTed Virgin ; and five hun-
dred above this, two other chapels, fituated in
a plain, which the traveller enters by two feall
gates of mafon-work. Upon this plain are two
trees, under which, at high feftivals, the Arabs
are regaled at the expence of the Greeks. IVly
Mahometan guides, imitating the pradices vv hick
they had feon the pilgrims obferve, Idifed the
images, and repeated their prayers in the cha-
pels. They would accompany me no farther ;
but maintained this to be the hioheft accelTible

o

peak of the mountain ; whereas, according to
Pococke, I had yet a thoufand fteps to afcend,,
I was therefore obliged to return, and content
myfelf with viewing the bill of St Catharine at
a.diftance (v). .

Ghaf-

f

196 NIEBUHR's TRATEXi,

Chap. Vit.

Our return from Mount SinaL

In the afternoon of the 1 6th of Septemher, we
defcended Jibbel Mufa, and palTed the night at
the bottom of that cliffy mountain, at the open-
ing into the valley of Faran. Next day, after
advancing three miles through the vale, we halt-
ed near the dwelling of our Schicch of the tribe
of Said.

Our Ghafirs left us again, and went to fee
their friends in the gardens of date-trees. Dur«
ing their abfence, we met with a young Arab^
riding on on a dromedary, who had made him^-
fclf drunk in one of thofe gardens. Underftand-
ing that we were Europeans and Chriftians, he
began to pour out abufive language againft us,
much in the fame ftrain in which an infolent
and ill-bred young man in Europe might per-
haps wantonly abufe a Jew. From this incident^
wejudged that the Bedouins ufe wine. We.
could not help remarking, at the fame time, that
the law of Mahomet, with great wifdom, forbida
the ufe of ftrong liquors, as they have fuch ten-
dency to warm the paffions, which^ v/iththe in=

habitants

IN ARABIA, i^C,

liabitants of hot climates, have naturally but too
much violence. In the cities, indeed, many of
the Mahometans are in the habit of getting
drunk. But, either for lhame, or for fear of pu-
nifhment, they never appear drunk in public
and take this vicious indulgence only in private^
in their own houfes. Except that young man,
I never faw another Mahometan brutally drunk^
in all my travels.

Our Ghafirs returned, and we continued our
journey on the 20th of the month. Next day I
advanced before my fellow-travellers, of purpofe^
again to view the mountain, of which I fnal-
fpeak, when I come to defcribe the Egyptian
place of burial.

On the day following, we had an opportunity
of feeing a part of the road which we had palTeci
by night, when travelling to Jibbel Mufa. In
this place, near a defile, named Om-er-ridg-Iein^
I found fome infcriptions in unknown characters,
which had been mentioned to me at Cairo„
They are coarfely engraven, apparently with
iome pointed inftrument of iron, in the rock,
w^ithout order or regularity. ^ Our Arabs thought
the time loll which I fpent in copying thofe in-
fcriptions. They were not very wTong ; but I
fnall fpeak my fentiments on this head, when i
giye an account of Jibbehei-Mokatteb.

On

/

19^ ; kiebuhr's travels

On the 25th of September, we arrived agaiot
at Suez. Mr Baurenfeind was much recovered.
Before we could reach the city^ w,e had to crofs
the fame arm of the fea, over which we had been
ferried when we fet out on our journey ; but we
could find no boat on the Eaftern fide. Perceiv-
ing, hov/ever, that the tide was ebbing, we ven-
tured to ford this part of the gulf. We fuc-
ceeded happily, a little north from the ruins of
Kolfum. Onx camels walked fteadily ; and the
Arabs who waded, v/ere oply in water to the
knees. This was perhaps the firft time that any
Europeans attempted to pafs here in this man-=..
iier. This attempt fnewed us that the waters ia
the gulf are much influenced by the tides, and
convinced us, that in the ebb^ the Red Sea may
be fafely paiTed on foot (wj.

After my return to Suez, I was delirous to ex-=
amine alfo the weftern fide of the Gulf, and the
adjoining hillso I could prevail with no perfou.
to accompany me in fo dangerous an expedition,
for, at the fmalleft diftance from the city, the
pafienger is in no lefs danger of being robbed,,
than in the defart. At length, however, an A-
rab undertook to be my guide. But he trem-
bled at the fight of every human being that we
ii:iet ; and indeed thofe whom we met, feemed
to be no lefs afraid of us. Thus teazed and vex-

. cd

tit ARABIA, ÜC.

ed as 1 was, I coeld make but few interefling
obfervations in thcfe petty excurfions.

I now, for the firfl: time, obferved an appearance
with which I was Angularly ftruck ; but which
became afterwards familiar to me. An Arab^
whom I faw approaching at a diftance, upon a
camel, appeared to move through the air, with
the gigantic bulk of a tower ; although he was
travelling along the fand like ourfelves. Several
travellers mention this error of viiion, which is
owing to ä peculiar refradion produced in thefe
torrid climates, by vapours differing greatly in
their nature, from thofe which' fill the air in
temperate regions (x),

I could learn nothing certain concerning the
canal which is faid to have joined the Nile with
the Arabic gulph. No Arab would condud me
into that part of the country through which it
is probable that the canal might pafs ; becaufe
the tribe who inhabit it, were at variance with
the inhabitants of Suez. In the neighbourhood
of Suez, I could find no trace of any canal ; un-
lefs the valley -of Mofieiha^ between Bir Suez
and the city, may be regarded as fuch. After
the rains, a confiderable quantity of water re-
mains ftagnate in this vale, vvhich the inhabitants
draw for ufe ; and v/hen the waters are gone off,,
it is foon covered vdth grafs (y).

Ghap,^

StC0 ^NIEiuiTR's TRÄVELI

Chap.VIIL

t)f the Mountain of Infcriptions^ and cf an Egyptian
Burying-place»

Since Mr Clayton, bifhop of Cloglier, publifli-
ed the narrative of the Superior of a convent of
Francifcans at Cairo, we have heard much talk
in Europe of a difcovery made by that monk of
a mountain covered wholly over with infcrip-
tions in unknown charaders. It w^as imagined
that thofe infcriptions might furnifh fome tefti-
mony concerning the ancient refidence of the
Jews in that country : And, in this expedatica
the Bifhop of Clogher offered live hundre4
pounds fterling, to defray the expences of jour-
ney, to any man of letters who would undertake
to copy them.

But the marvellous part of this difcovery by
degrees difappeared ; and the fanguine hopes
which had been built upon it, vanifhed. Seve-
ral travellers had before obferved, upon the way
to Mount Sinai, fome rocks infcribed with
flrange characters : even in the third century,
thefe infcriptions had been mentioned by ä

Greek

IN ARABIA, ^f. i6i

Greek author. Momonys had formerly copied
fome of them ; Pococke and Montague had copi-
ed others, and had communicated them to feve-^
ral men of letters. They were judged to be nei-
ther Jewifh nor Arabic, from the appearance of
fome coarfe pieces of fculpture that accompa-
nied them. Some confidered them as a mixture
of Coptic and Arabic characters. At laft, a
perfon, who was very well verfed in Oriental
literature, conjeclured that they might be Phoe-
nician : an opinion w^hich is the more probable,»
as the Phoenicians had, at a very remote period,
fettlements upon the eaiiern coaft of the Arabic
Gulf.

As little were the learned agreed concerning
the purport of thofe infcriptions, and the infor-
mation which they might afford. Thofe who
examined them the moil accurately, concluded^
from their polition, and the manner in which
they were engraven, that they related nothing
more than the names of travellers, and the
dates of their journies. In the fan\e place are
iliil to be feen a vaft number of ill-engraven in-
fcriptions, in Greek and Arabic, of the names of
perfons who have fought, by this means, to tranL
mit the memory of their exiflence to future times»

That I might be enabled to guefs for myfelf,
I copied a good number of thofe infcriptions in
unknown charaders, which we found engraven

Vol. I. C upoa

202

I

niebuhr's travels

upon the rocks on the way to Mount Sinai, and
fome of them upon the mountain. I have in
my pofleflion a copy of another infcription, the
characters of which differ from thofe which I
copied myfelf. It was copied by Mr Donati, a
learned traveller, whofe papers will be loft, as
he himfelf has not returned to Europe. The
place where thefe infcriptions are moft numerous,
is in the narrow pafs of Om-er-rid/Iein, which
I have already mentioned. The pretended Jib-
hel-el-Mokatteb may poffibly be in its neighbour-
hood.

After examining the lituations and the engra-
ving of thefe infcriptions, I incline to the opi-
nion of thofe who think them of little import-
ance. They feem to have bee^ executed at idle
hours by travellers, who were fatisfied with cut-
ting the unpolifhed rock with any pointed in-
ftrument ; adding to their names, and the date
of their journies, fome rude figures, which be-
fpeak the hand of a people but little Ikilled in
the arts. When fuch infcriptions are executed
wdth the defign of tranfmitting to pofterity the
memory of fuch events as might afford inftruc-
tive leffons, greater care is generally taken in
the preparation of the ftones, and the infcrip-
tions are engraven with more regularity, as I
lhali have oecafion to obferre, when I come to
fpeak of the ruins of Perfepolis.

Akhougli

IN ARABIA, ^C.

203

Although convinced that the wonderful part
of the ftory of that mountain was perfedly ima-
ginary, we took pains at Cairo to inform our-
felves particularly concerning its lituation ; and,
as I have before mentioned, we found a Schiech
of the tribe of Leghat^ who pretended to know
the famous Jibbel-el-Mokatteb, and promifed to
condud: us thither. We had been directed to
examine thofe curiofities ; and vv^e were eager to
fee them, even for our own gratification.

Arriving, on the evening of the loth of Sep-
tember, at our Schiech's dwelling, he conduct-
ed us next day, with our other Ghaiirs, to that
hill, which, he had told us, lay in his neigh-
bourhood. We climbed up it by a fleep and
rugged path, and, inftead of infcriptions, were
furprifed to find on the fummit an Egyptian ce«
metery. We gave this name to the place, al-
though we had feen nothing of the fame kind in
Egyptj'^^here all fuch monuments are novv^ funk
in the fand. But a flight acquaintance with the
Egy^ian architecture and hieroglyphics, and
witl^ the antiquities difcovered by Norden in
Upper Egypt, may enable any perfon to fee
that the ruins on the top of Jibbel-el-Mokatteb
can be no other than Egyptian.

It is covered with ftones of from five to feven
feet in length, infcribed with hieroglyphics, and
C c 2 foma

^04 niebuhr's travels

fome of them ftanding on end, while others -am
lying flat. The more carefully they are exa~
mined, fo much the more certainly do they ap-
pear to be fepulchral ftones, having epitaphs in-
fcribed upon them. In the middle of thefe
ilones is a building, of which only the walls
now remain ; and within it are like wife a great
many of the fepulchral ftones. At one end of
the building feems to have been a fmall cham-
ber, of which the roof ftill remains* It is fup-
ported upon fquare pillars ; and thefe, as well
as the walls of the chamber, are covered over
with 'hieroglyphic infcriptions. Through the
whole building are various bufts, executed in
the manner of the ancient Egyptians. The fe-
pulchral ftones, and the bufts, are of hard and
fine-grained fand-ftone. The Egyptians are
known to have ufed granite, or fome fimilar
fpecies of ftone, in all their works of fculpture
or architecture.

The Arabs fuffered us to examine thofe curi-
oiities at oi|r leifure, and to note down upon the
fpot, fome particulars relative to them. But,
when I began to copy fome of the hieroglyphics,
they gathered all about me, and told me, that
the Schiech of the mountain would not permit
this to be done. That pretended Schiech was an
Arab of their acquaintance, whom they had a-
greed to honour with the title, and inveft with

the

IN ARABIA, Wc,

tlie power, of purpofe to draw money from 115,
The lord of Jibbel-el-Mokatteb, who had w^ait-
ed our approach upon the top of the hill, came
up upon this, and told us, that he ^vould not for
an hundred crowns,. fufFer us to copy the leaft
thing, or permit Chriflians to carry "away any
treafures that w^ere hidden in his territories. The
Arabs believe, or pretend at leaf!: to believe, that
the Europeans are in poffeffionof fecrets by which
they can make any hidden treafure arife out of
the earth, and can convey it away through the
air, if they are only permitted to copy any in-
fcription indicating its fituation. Upon this fan-
cy, they raifed a claim of either iharing with
us in the treafures which might be found, or re-
ceiving an hundred crowns for their permiinoii
to us to fearch for themi,

Defpairing of being able tobring thofe felfißi
mortals to reafon : I fecretly promifed four
crowns to one of our Ghafirs, w^ho had always
fhewn himfelf honed and obliging, if he w^ould
accompany me, by ourfelves, to that place, upon
my return from Mount Sinai, and give me time
to copy what I pleafed. I have already obferv-
ed, that this Arab kept his word, and I eiTeded
my purpofe. The hieroglyphics v/hich I copi^
ed, were as w^ell executed as any I had feen in
Egypt. One thing in which they differ, is in
exhibiting the goat, an animal common through

to6 niebuhr^s travels

this country : Whereas, in Egypt, the goat ne^
ver appears as an hieroglyphic fymbol ; but the
cow frequently. Thefe monuments may there-
fore may be fuppofed to be the work, not of per-
fons adually inhabiting Egypt, but of an Egyp-
tian colony, or of fome people who had adopted
the arts and manners of Egypt. The Arabs,
who had, in thofe early ages, conquered Egyptj
under their fhepherd kings, might bring with
them, when expelled from the fcene of their
canquefls, the arts and manners which they had
learned from the conquered people.

Whether this conjedure be rejected or admit-
ted, it Hill remains a difficulty how to account
for the fituation of this cemetery, which mull
have belonged to an opulent city, where the arts
were flourifhing, at fuch a diilance from the.
fcenes of cultivation, in the mi ddle of a defart,
and on the fumrait of a precipitous mountain.
This country is indeed more populous than it
feems at firft to be, for the, Arabs ftudioufly con-
duct travellers by roads paffing at a diftance
from their dwellings. But, it is impoflible to
conceive, how a populous and opulent city could
fpring up in the midll of fuch a defart. It is
more probable, that the inhabitants of fome ma-
ritime city upon the coaft of the Arabic gulph,
have been induced by a veneration for the moun-
tain, founded upon fome fuperftitious fentiments,

to

IN ARABIA, . -20^

to convey their dead to this diflance, that thej
might be interred in facred ground (z). ^

Chap. IX,

Of fome Cußoms of the Arahs in the Defart,

The Arabs^ as is v/ell known, are divided into
tribes. Speaking of thefe, they fay Beiii, which
fignifies the fons of fome perfon ; thus Beni Leg--
bat means the tribe of Leghat. Thefe fmall
tribes have each its Schiech, who is commonly
dependent on the Grand Schiech of fome more
potent tribe,

In our way to Mount Sinai, we paiTed through
the territories of Beni Ljeghat, Beni Saualha, and
Eeni Said. Thefe three tribes are particularly
conneäied with the convent of St (^atharine^
pretending to be its protedors, although in rea-.
lity its opprefibrs. The tribe of Beni Said, who
are the more immediate neighbours of the con-
vent, have a very bad charader. They are ori-^
ginaliy from Upper Egypt.

Thefe Arabs, although fcattered in feparate
families over the country, feem to be fond of fo-^
ciety^ and vifit one another frequently. A fort

of

i^IEBUHR's TRAVELS

of politenefsj too, prevails among them, but it ig
too ceremonious. We witnelTed the etiquette
öf their vilits, at the dwelling of our Sehiech of
the tribe of Leghat. His friends having had no-
tice of his return, came to pay their compliments
to him, upon the occafion. We had likewife
our fhare in their polite attentions ; for they
congratulated us, upon our travelling through
the defart, without meeting with any ünfortu«
;itiate accident. When they falute, they join
hands, embrace, and aik one another, in a tone
of tendernefs, " How art thou? Is all v/ell?"
When a Sehiech enters a company, all rife, and
the Sehiech goes round to embrace every one in
ills turni

Some travellers have fancied, that a part of
their politenefs, upon fuch occafions, conlifts in
mutual enquiries after the health of their camels
and other domeftic animals. But fuch enquiries
are rather taken ill. Although, as it is natural
for two men of the fame profeflion, when they
meet, to converfe concerning their affairs ; fa
two Bedouins, whofe fole employment is to ma-
nage their cattle, will naturally queftion one a-
notlier upon that head ; juft as our peafants talk
of their fields and meadows.

Their way of living is nearly the fame as
that of the other wandering Arabs of the Kar-
das, and of the Turcomanns, They lodge in

tents

il4 ARABIA,

tents made of coarfe ItufF, either black, ot flrip^
ed black and white ; which is manufadured bj
the women, of goat's hair. The tent confifts of
three apartments ; of which one is for the men,
another for the women, and the third for the
cattle. Thofe who are too poor to have ä
tent, contrive, however, to ih elter themfelves
from the inclemencies of the weather, either with
a piece of cloth ftretched Upon poles, or by re-
tiring to the cavities of the rocks. As the lhade
of trees is exceedingly agreeable in fuch torrid
regions, the Bedouins are at great pains in feek-
ing out fhaded lituations to encamp in.

The furniture correfponds to the fimplicity of
the dwelling ; the chief article is a large ftraw
mat, which ferves equally for a feat, a table, and
a bed ; the kitchen utenfils are merely a few
pots, a few plates, and a few cups of tinned cop-
per. Their clothes, with all their valuable
moveables, are put up in leather bags, which are
hung within the tent. Their butter is put in»
to a leathern bag ; and the water which they
ufe, is preferved in goat fkins. The hearth for
the kitchen fire, is placed any where, and with->
out much trouble : it confifts of a hole made in
the ground, and laid with ftones. Inftead of an
oven, they ufe an iron plate, in preparing their
bread, which is made into (mall cakes. They

Vol I, D d know

210

niebuhr's travels

know no mills but fuch as are moved with the
hands.

Their food is equally fimple. They are fond
of newly baken bread ; and in their excurfions
through the defart, they are particularly careful
to carry with them fufficient fupplies of mcaL
The only other vidluals which they ufe, are
dates, milk, eheefe, and honey. On occalions of
feftivals, indeed, a goat is killed and roafted.
Although poor, and much inclined to live at the
expence of ftrangers, they are, however^ hofpita-
ble among themfelves, and often invite one ano-
ther to fhare their meals. Our Schiechs never
accepted a treat from any of their friends, with-
out flriving to repay it. '

The Arabs of the defart are drefled much like
their brethren in Egypt. The only difference,
is, that the former wear flioes of undreifed lea-
ther, and of a peculiar lhape. Many of them,
however, walk with bare feet upon the fcorch-
ing fand, which renders their fKin, at length, in-
fenfible. They arm themfelves, too, like the
Egyptian Arabs ; riding upon camels, as thofe
upon horfes, and bearing a lance, a fabre, and
f jmetimes a gun.

The drefs of the females in the defart, al-
though Ampler than that worn by the ordinary
women in Egypt, is in reality, however, the ve-
ry fame. The wife of one of our Schiechs, wore

an

£N ARABIA,

an uncommon piece of drefs ; brafs rings of an
enormous fize, in her ears. Thefe women, liv-
ing remote from the world, and being wholly
occupied in the management of their domeftic
alTairs, appear to be, from thefe circumftances,
lefs fhy and fcrupulous than the other women
of the Eaft. They make lefs difficulty of con.
verfing with a ftraiiger, or expofing their face
unveiled before him.

It is commonly known, that the Mahometans
are permitted to have four wives. The Bedou-
ins, who are poor, and cannot eafily find the
means of fubfiftence, content themfelves with
one, for the moil part. Thofe who are in the
eafieft circumftances, and who have two wive.i»
feem to have married fo many, chiefly that they
might fuperintend their concerns in two differ-
ent places. The condud: of our Schiech of Be-
ni Said, as well as his converfation, led us to
make this reflexion. The difagreement that
fubfifted between his two wives, afforded an in-
ftance of fome of the inconveniences that attend
polygamy.

D d 2 SECTION

SECTION VIL

YGYAGE FROM SUEZ Tp JIDDA AND LOHEIA,

Chap L

Departure from Sue%.

During our ab fence, feveral fmail caravans
had fucceflively arrived at Suez ; and the arrival
of the great caravan from Cairo, followed foon
after our return from Mount Sinai. Although
from pirates properly fo called, there is little to
be feared in the Arabic gulph, yet, fo unfkil-^
ful are the mariners in thefe latitudes, that they
dare not venture to any diflance from the coalls.
This timorous mode of failing might expofe a
iingle vefiel to the robbery of the Arabs ; to a-
void which^ thefe iliip^ fail in little fleets ; four

always

IN ARABIA,

'213

always fetting out together, that they may join-
to defend themfelves.

After the arrival of the caravans, Suez feem<=
ed more populous than Cairo ; and as fuch a
multitude could not long find fubfiilence there,
all were eager to fet out without delay. We
were recommended to the mailers of two fliips
that were to make the voyage. Although now
accufccmed to live with the Mahometans, yet,
m cur pa ßage to Jidda, we fullered a degree of
uneaiinefs^ which we had not felt upon occaiicns
of greater danger. Some Greeks had hinted to
us, that the MuiTulmans thought Chriilians un»
worthy of makuig this voyage in the company
of the pilgrims who were journeying to the ho-
ly city ; and that upon this account we fliould
not go aboard with fiioes upon our feet. Some
of the pilgrims, indeed, feemed to look upon us
little lefs unfavourably than a Capuchin going
to Jerufalem would regard a Proteilant, But^
to be obliged to walk without flioes upon the
deck, was not an humiliating diftinclion, con-
fined to Chriilians : it was a rellraint to which
all on board were fabjecled. Nobody in thofe
vefTels but mud walk upon deck without llioes.

To avoid the company of the Mahometans,
we had hired an apartmient which we thought
the bell. In a chamber oppofite to ours, lodged
a rich black eunuch, who was going to Mecca ;

and^

114

NiEBUHR^S TRAVELS

and, ufelefs as it could not but be to him^ was
accompanied with his feraglio, like a Turkiili
lord. In a large apartment under ours, were
forty women and flaves, v/ith their children,
whofe crying and noife gave us no little diflurb-
ance. Every one of the other pafiengers had
hired a place upon the deck, where he remain-
ed with his bales and parcels around him, hav-
ing only a fmall fpace vacant in the middle,
where he might drefs his vicluals, fit, and fleep.
Our Greek failors, v/ho were very unlkilful,
were perplexed by thefe incumbrances, and
could not go about to manage the veffel, without
trampling upon the goods of the merchants,
which produced endlefs difputes.

Our velFel, although large enough to have
carried at leail forty guns^ was very deeply la-
den, Befides her own freight, llie towed after
her three large fhallops, and one fmall ; the three
larger filled with pafiengers, horfes, flieep, and
even v/onien of pleafure.

The mailer, an honeft merchant from Cairo?
w^hofe name was Scho 'reibe^ would not have been
diftinguiüied among the feamen of Europe. He
took upon himfelf the talk of pilot to the vefiel ;
but was indeed a very unflcilful pilot. Between
the two compafles, where European navigators
fet a light, he had placed a large magnet, to re-
iiore, imperceptibly, as he faid^ their magnetic

virtue

11^ Arabia, csV.

Vntue to the needles. It was with difficulty
that I perfuaded him to remove it.

With fach feamen, however, we were ob--
liged to fail ; although they dürft not venture
out into the open fea, but coafted round the
ßiores, at the rifk of being daflied in pieces upon
jutting rocks, or fcranded upon banks of coraL
We had paid the mafter for dur paffage, imme-
diately after agreeing for it. But, according
to the cuftom of the country, we were obliged
to give an achiowledgement to the failors be-
fore going on board, which, in other places, is
not expected till paßengers be leaving the vef-
fel.

To avoid any difagreeable rencounters with
the other paffengers, we had taken care to go
firft on board. We had yet feveral days to
wait, till the Governor fhould infpedl the fhipf^
to fee whether they were not overladen. This
duty he never fails to perform ; for a fam of
money is payable to him from each velFel, upcn^
the occaiion, Vi^hich conftitutes a part of his re-
venue.

At length, after all thefe delays, the four
üiips weighed anchor about midnight, on the
icth of Odober. The iide upon which we paf-
led would have been dangerous, if the wind
had not been favourable ; for it is - covered
all over Vv'ith coral rocks. The fhips caft an--

cho!<

niebuhr's travels

ehor every night ; and we had then liberty to
go on fliore, if we chofe to run the hazard, in
order to fee any objed of curiofity.

Chap. IL

Of the Harbour of Tor,

HE harbour, in which we happened to caft
anchor, was once a place of fome coniideration :
but the fmall fort of Kalla and Tor is now ruin-
ous,, and without a garrifon. In its neighbour-
hood, however, are fome remarkable villages,
the inhabitants of which, as of all this barren
Goaft, live by fiüiing.

The inhabitants of Beled-efi-NaJfara are Greek
Chriftians. In the neighbourhood is a convents
but only a lingle eccleiiaftic in it. At Bir is a
well, the v/ater of which is better than that at
Naha^ but not equal to what the Arabs briiig
upon camels from the hills. All the pilots who
fail between Suez and Jidda live in the village
of JebiL Each of thefe pilots receives five
hundred crovv^ns for the voyage; and gains
fomething, beüdes, in thecourfe of it, by inftrud-
ing young perfons who accompany him, to
learn his art, which confifts merely in diftin-

guifhing

IN ARABIA, Eir,

117

guifliing where the fand-banks and beds of co-

Mr Forflcal went on fliore to vifit the pre-
tended Valley of Elim, The ecclefiailic belongs
ing to the Greek convent, fent a guide to con--
dud him thitheio He found it overgrown with
date trees. As he did not immediately return,
a report arofe in the velTel that he had been de-
tained by the Arabs, for attempting to take
draughts of their hills. Some merchants, who
were alfo jäniffaries, fet irlftantly out, to xt-
lieve and bring him back. Happily, the report
turned out to have been falfe ; and Mr Forlkal
returned, without having met with any uhplea-
fallt accident.

In this place, we had an opportunity of
feeing that whole range of mountains which
terminates with Jibbel Miifa, and forms ä
mafs of which the mountain of St Catharine's
is the higheft: peak. One of thofe moun-
tains rifes near Tor. We had a diflind view
of St Catharine's, and perceived how high it
towers above Sinai, This vail pile of moun-
tains fills the whole tradl between the two arms
of the Arabic gulf. Near the fhore, thofe
mountains fink into fmall hills, which flope in-
to fandy plains.

niebukr's f^AViti

Chap. III.

Vopge fvom Tor to Jidda.

W^E continued, till we had failed as far as Raf
Mahommed, to call anchor every night. But,
between that cape and the coail of Arabia, we
had to crofs the Red Sea at its full breadth.
The Europeans think this the fafeft route, as
there is not, through the whole, one rock on
which a Ihip can be wrecked. But, the Turks
think themfelves undone, whenever thej lofe.
fight of land.

So many misfortunes happen, indeed, froiü
the ignorance of their feamen, that they hav©
reafon for their fears. Out of four velTels that
had fet out rather too late, in the foregoing year,
two had perifhed in thefe latitudes. Some per>*
fons, who had made the voyage in thofe veflels,
narrated to us the particulars of that event,
which afforded no bad fpecimen of the nautical
Ikill of the Turks. When the ftorm arofe, alj
the failors and palTengers leaped into the boats,
and betook themfelves to the fhore. The two
Ihips being thus abandoned to the ilorm, one
was daßied againft a r-ock, and the other fank*

The

IN ARABIA, ISc^

219

The mafter of the third cut away the cords of
his boats, for which the paflengers threatened
to cut him in pieces. But, by explaining ta
them their danger, and promifing to extricate
them, if they fhould not perplex and impede
him, he prevailed upon them to affift him in
faving the Ihip.

In our pafiage, we found ourfelves in danger
of a worfe misfortune than fhipwreck. The fe-
males, who were lodged under us, more than
once fuffered linen, which they were drying,
to catch fire, in confequence of which the veffel
mull have been burnt, if we had not been alarm-
ed by their fcreams, and haftened to their aflift-
ance. The fecond time when this happened^,
our captain was enraged, and fent down an in-
ferior officer into the feraglio, to beat the wo-
men for their careleiTnefs. The inflidion of
this puniihment produced, at firft, no fmali
noife among them ; but it was followed by four
and twenty hours of a. fweet ßlence. Thofe wo-
men were indeed extremely troublefome and in-
difcreet. Hearing their voices fo Very near us,
I was tempted to look through a chink, and faw
three or four of them naked and bathing.

Nothing remarkable appeared upon the track
by which we failed, unlefs a few fmall and defart
iflands, and the fummits of fome diftant hills.
The laft objects that remained within our view,

E e 2 upon

■220

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

upon the coaft of Egypt, were the famous moun-
tains of emeralds, called by the Arabs Jihhel
Sumrud,

On the 17th of Odober, an eclipfe of the fun
happened, which had been foretold to our Cap-
tain by Mr Forlkal. I Ihewed this phenome-
non through glalTes to the Captain and the prin-
cipal merchants, with which they were much
pleafed ; for, among the Mahometans, a perfon
who can predid: an eclipfe, paffes for an univer-
fai fchoiar, and efpecially for a very fkilful phy-
lician. Mr Forfical was confuited by feveral of
the paffengers, who fancied themfelves lick up-
on a fudden. He mentioned fome harmlefs me-
dicines to them, and recommended exercife and
a peculiar regimen. At length, one of the pil-
grims complaining that he could not fee by
night, my friend advifed him to light a candle*
This humourous prefcription did him better fer-
vice than the moil profound fi^ill in medicine
could have done : Thofe Muflulmans were pleaf-
ed to find him thus accommodate himfelf to
their manners, and became very fond of him.

When we came near to the fmall iile of Kajfa^
ni, the Turks began to exprefs their joy at hav-
ing efcaped the dangers of fuch a palTage, and
liaving fo nearly reached the coafi: of Arabia*
Cannons and mufkets were fired 3 the fliip and

tha

IN ARABIA, Uc, '221

the boats were illuminated with lamps, and Ian-
thorns ; and all was exultation and jollity. The
failors went round with a box, aflcing a dole
from the paffengers ; every one gave fome trifle ■
and they then threw into the fea,— -not the mo-
ney,—but die box in which they had coilecled
it.

Continuing our courfe, v/e incurred coniider-
able danger, in doubling a cape furrounded with
banks of coral, becaufe our pilot : as drunk. He
had frequently afKied us for brandy, on pretence
that he could not fee the hills, or the outline of
the coaft, unlefs his light were cleared by the
drinking of a little ilrong liquor. Wc had re-=
fufed him, for fear of giving offence to the other
MuiTulmans ; but we foon faw that they are
not fo fcrupulous, for the Captain fent to us
very morning for a quarter of a bottle of brandy
to his pilot. The Greek merchants might per-
haps have made him drunk, by adding to the
dofe which he received daily from us.

We arrived foon after at Jamho^ a walled
town near the fea, and having a fafe harbour.
Not having feen a fmgle houfe, fmce we had left
Tor, we felt no fmall pleafure at the fight of
Jambo.

Such as meant to take Medina, on their v/ay
to Mecca, went on fhorc here. Three of our
party alfo landed, and took their fabres in their

liands^

33-2 KI^:EUHR's trav:els

hands, like the other paflengers. An inhabitant of
Jambo, fuppofingthem Turks, gave them the fa^
iutation of peace, SalamAlicum, and entered fami-
liarly into converfation with them. But learn- v
ing that they were Franks, he became vexed at
having profaned his form of falntation, by ad-
dreffing it to ChriftianSj and paffionately railed
at the infolent audacity of thefe infidels, who,
dared to wear arms in Arabia. But the other
Arabs not feconding his complaint, my fellow-
travellers came on board, without meeting with,
any other unpleafant accident.

After flopping for one day in this harbour, we
proceeded upon our voyage, retiring by degrees,
from the coaft, near which many beds of coral;
rocks were fcatteredo We had an opportunity
of feeing the town of Maßura, which Hands at
the foot of a hill of the fame nam^e. We doubled
C2i^Q War dan ; and anchored near Rabogh, a per-
manent habitation of a body of Arabs, who live
there in tents. We purchased from them a,
plentiful ftock of provifions.

Pilgrims, in their iirft journey to Mecca, are
obliged to alTume the Ihhram immediately aftei:
palling Cape Wardan, if the ftate of their health
permit. This is a piece of linen, which is wrap-
ped round the loins. The reft of the body is
naked ; and in this ftate, they proceed through
the reft of the pilgrimage, till they have vifited

tlip

I

IN ARABIA, l^C.

the Kaaha. The only other garment they are
fufFered to wear, is a linen cloth upon the Ihoul*
ders, which hangs down in the fafhion of a fcarf^
But many, under pretext of indifpofition, retain-
ed their ordinary drefs. Others, more devout,
afllimed the Ihhram, although they had been
formerly at Mecca ; fo that by the evening, we
faw moft of thofe MufTulmans drdGed in a garb
different from what they had worn in the morn-
ing.

It may feem flrange, that Mahomet ihoiild
have enjoined the obfervance offtripping, which
is fo injurious to the health of the pilgrims. But
this law was inftituted at a time, when his fol-
lowers were all Arabs, and there was little pro^-
bability, that his religion would be propagated
in more northern regions. His defign was to
make the pilgrims appear with due humility,
and in the common drefs of the Arabs, Thofe
linens are ftiil the only drefs worn by the inha-
bitants of this province. But the Turks , who
are accuftomed to wear warm clothes, and even
furred cloaks, find it extremely uncomfortable
to change thefe for the Ihhram. Superilitioii
maintains local cufloms and inftitutions, even af-
ter circumilances have fo changed, as to make
them counteradl the purpofes for which thej
%vere originally intended. The members of fe-
deral religious Orders retain^ in cold countries,

the

nieSühr's travels

the common drefs of the warm countries in whicli
their Orders were inftituted. In a chilling cli<»
mate, we fee them repair, in the middle of win-
ter, to damp, icy churches, becaufe the primitive
Chriftians, in the mild climate of Afia, aflembled
through the whole year, in fuch buildings, which
were there agreeable by their coolnefs.

At length, %n the 29th of Odober, we arrived
m the harbour of Jidda. The fame reafon which
had induced us to enter thefhip before the other
paiTengers, difpofed us to remain in it till they
had all gone on iliore. Every one was eager to
get away with his goods aifoon as poffible, and
to conceal them as much as he could from the
officers of the cuiloms. They were particularly
at pains to conceal their ready money, which
pays two and a hdlfper ce?it, of duty. One of
the paiTengers failed in the attempt to fecrete his
money ; for his purfe burft as he entered the
boat, and his crowns fell into the fea. Thofe
who defraud the cuftoms, fufier no confifcation
of their goods upon detedlion ; they are only
laughed at. In feveral places in Turkey, thofe
deteded in thefe pradices are compelled to pay
the duties double,

All who had been this way in the former ^
year, and were now returning from the city^ '
complained bitterly of the harfhnefs with which
they had been treated by the cu^omhoufe offi-
cers,-

IN ARABIA, Uc»

cers. We were therefore perplexed about our
ready money, not that we were unwilling to pay
the duties, but we were afraid of being plunder-
ed by the Arabs. As the Mahometans are un-
acquainted with the ufe of letters of exchange,
we had been obliged to carry with us in Vene-
tian fequins, the whole fum that we intended to
expend on. our journey. After various thoughts,
Vr-e refolved to put our money in the bottom of
our medicine-cheft, referving only two hundred
fequins, where we expedled the officers of the
cuftoms to fearch. Our ftratagem fucceeded ;
and no perfon offered to move our medicines.

The other three veffels which had fet out with
lis from Suez, did not reach Jidda till a conhder-
able time after our arrival. One of them, by
the ignorance of the failors, had been in great
danger in the courfe of the paffage. She was
even overturned in the road, the failors having^
in order to gratify the impatience of the merch»
ants, in difcharging the cargoe, placed toa great
a weight of goods upon the ftem of the fhip.
She was again raifed upon her keel, but a great
part of the goods had fallen into the fea, and
were much damaged, a new indance this, of the
unikilfulnefs of the Turkifli feamen..

Vol I.

Ff

Chap.

KIEBUHr's TRAVELS'

Chap. IV.

Of Jidda and its Vicinity »

We entered this city under ftrong apprehen«
Hons of ill-treatment from its inhabitants, Re^
colle6ling with what contempt Chriftians are re„
garded at Cairo, and how our companions had
been infuited by the Arab at Jambo ; we fear-
ed, that we might experience ftill more of the
inhofpitable infolence of the Muffdlmans, as we
approached nearer to their holy cities. But we
found ourfelves agreeably difappointed. The
inhabitants of Jidda, who are much accuftomed
to Chfiftian merchants in the European drefs,
were not ftruck with any thing ftrange in our
appearance, and did not feem to take much no-
tice of us. We went freely to the coffee-houfes
and markets, without fuffering any infults. But
we underftood, that none except Muifulmans,
are permitted to pafs through the gate that opens
towards Mecca, or even to approach it ; and
kept therefore carefully at a diftance from that
gate, leaft we might be difcovered.

Our letters of recommendation were of great
ufe to ui. Mr Gc^hler had been perfonally ac-
quainted

IN ARABIA, l^C, - 127

quairited with the Pacha of Jidda, at Conftanti-
nople, and had accordingly recommended us to
him. We had letters from two confiderable
merchants at Cairo, to two of the principal mer-
chants in Jidda. A poor Schech had given us
one to the Kiaja, the Pacha^s lieutenant : a re-
commendation from which we had not expected
much, but which was, neverthelefs, of more fer-
vice to us than all the reft.

That Schech was fecretary to one of the prin-
cipal members of the academy of Jamea-el-A-
ßfar, at Cairo. He had been born in European
Turkey, and having often heard of the fuperio-
rity of the European Chriftians in matters of fci-
ence, he came frequently to fee us, and was eag-
er to receive .information from us. He was a
truly worthy man, perfedly free from fuperfti-
tion, and a friend to the whole human race*
Mr Forfkal and I inftrudled him in the elements
of botany and aftronomy. He, for his part, was
very ufeful to us, exercifmg us in the Arabic
language, and explaining to us many things of
which we muft otherwife have remained igno-
rant. In his youth, he had given the Kiaja
fome leffons. He had written, without our
kno\^iedge, by the laft caravan, to prepolTefs his
old friend in our favour : and gave us, befides^
this letter to him. -

Ff2 As

228 niebuhr's tp.avels

As we had not time to deliver all our letters
with our owQ hands, we fent thofe to the two
merchants by our fervant, in hopes that they
might find us lodgings. But when they under-
ftood that we were fo many, they excufed them-
felves, alleging that it was not poffible to find a
houfe large enough. Had we been fewer, we
might have taken chambers in the public Kan.
Our Greek fervant, when we were thus at a iofs
for lodgings, applied to one of his countrymen,
who was goldfmith to the iheriffe of Mecca, and
in great credit with the principal men in the ci-
ty. This goldfmith informed him, that the Ki-
aja, having had previous intimation of our com-
ing, had given him orders to do us any fervice in
his power. He even offered us the ufe of his
own houfe for a night, and promifed us a whole
houfe to ourfelves, by next day.

Upon receiving this notice, we went inilantly
to deliver the Schech's letter to the Kiaja ; who
received us with great politenefs. We went af-
terwards frequently to fee him ; and in cur an-
fwers to his queflions concerning the cufioms
and manners of Europe, we communicated to
him and his friends, more juft and favourable i-
deas of the Europeans, than they fi^emed to have
before entertained. The Arabs confider us in
the fame light in which we regard the Chinefe»
They efteem themfelves the more enlightened

and

IN ARAßiA, i^Co

229

and ingenious people ; and think tliey do us great
honour, when they rank us in the fecond place*
The Kiaja was fond of converling about aitrono-
my. Mr Forßial, who often viiited him, per-
fiiaded him to form a garden for plants near his
boufe, and to bring from the interior parts of
the country^ the fnrub vv^hich produces the balm
in Mecca. The Arabs looked upon this as a hap-
py thought ; and the more fo, becaufe the balm
is not to be obtained pure at Jidda, but is com-
monly corrupted with an intermixture of extra^
neous fubilances, before it comes there.

After a few days, we delivered our letter of ^
recommendation to the Facha. He had alfo
fome knowledge of aftronomy, and^ wiüied to
fee our inftruments. He thought them better
than thofe ufed in the Eaft, and fnewed them
to a Scbech, a learned Turk, whom he had with
him. The Pacha and the Schech fpoke no lan^
guage but the Turkißi, to which 1 was a fcran-
ger. But we had enough of interpreters; andj»
among others, three French and Italian rene"
gadoes in the fervice of the Pacha. Yet they
knew not the terms of fcience, eith^^r in their
native language, or in the Turkiflil I could
not, of confequence, make rayfelf well under^
flood by the Pacha ; and our converfttion upon
thefe fubjeds was not long nor profound. With
^he Kiaja I was obliged to fpeak Arabic, which

I found

NiEBUHR^S TRAVELS

I found not a little difficult, being ftill ignorant
of the term s of fcience in that language.

On the I ft of November, after hiring a houfe,
we made our elFeds be carried to the cuftom-
houfe, bef<;jre we Ihould remove them into the
city, and had the pleafure ro obferve, that we
v/ere not the lefs kindly dealt with for being
known to the Kiaja. That officer fat, in an e-
leyated fit^aation, with his clerks around him,
and dire6l;ed the goods of the merchants to be
examined, piece by piece ; but he was fatisfied
with openiing our trunks, and did not make them
be emptied* The officers of the cuftoms exped
a gratuity when they behave with difcretion.
The SherrlfFe's goldfmith, who had taken upon
himfelf th:i diredion of our expence, gave them
a trifle in our name publicly.

The news of the arrival of a party of Euro-
peans, am.ong whom was an aftronomer, foon
reached Mecca. The brother of the reigning
Sherriffe w^as at that time advancing with an
army, to attack the city. With the Matiome-
tans, an aftronomer is always deemed an aftro-
loger. The SherifFe, therefore, direded his
Greek goMfmith to enquire of me, Whether he
fhould remain in pofTeffion of the fovereign
power, or be compelled to give place to his
brother ? I excufed myfelf from returning an
anfwer, m being ignorant of future events, and

IN ARABIA, Uc,

and as cultivating aftronomv only to improve
the art of navigation. But Mr Von Haven re-
plied, that, of the two brothers, he who bore the
greateft refemblance to Haflan, the founder of
the family, Ihould remain victorious. This re-
fpcnfe turned out the more happi ly, that the
reigning Sherifie was enabled to maintain him-
felf upon the throne. ||^

A nobleman in Jidda ailvea me to difcover to
•him the thief who had ftolen two hundred fe-
quins which he had loft. I alleged the fame
excufe as in the formier cafe. then applied

to a famous Schech, who was a better ajh olo-
ger than 1. The Schech gathered all his fer-
vants, ranged them in a line, and, after a long
prayer, made each of them take into his mouth
a bit of folded paper, telling them, that
they who were innocent might fwallow it with
fafety, but that the guilty perfon would be
choaked by it. They all fwallowed the paper,
fave one, who, being thus furprifed, and em-
barrafled, confefled the theft, and made refti-
tiition.

He is faid to have been Sultan £/ Guri, fove-
reign of Egypt, who, in the year 15 14, fur-
rounded Jidda with walls, to protect it from
the Portuguefe, then beginning to become for-
midable on the Red Sea. Thofe walls are ftili
Handing, but are now^ fo ruinous, that a perfon

may

^- 232 niebuhr's travels

may, in many places, enter over them on horfe-
back. The bridge is in an equally defencelefs
date ; a ruinous battery, with one difmounted
^ cannon, is all that remains to ihelter it. Some
cannons befor^ the palace of the Pacha, are
good for nothing but to return the falute of
ihips which enter the harbour. This palaqe
IS but an indiife|ppt building, like the houfes
of the other Pachas through the Ottoman em-
pire. In the.^.city, however, are feveral fine
buildings of coral flone. But the other houfes
are flight wooden fabrics, like the ordinary
dwellmgs of the Arabs through the country.

The city is entirely deftitute of water. The
inhabitants have none to drink, but what is col-
ledled by the Arabs, in refervoirs among the
hills, and brought by them from thence upon
camels.

People of diftindion in this place drefs near-
ly as the Turks in Cairo. But, the poorer fort
wear only a fhirt Viäthout breeches. The Be-
douins in the neighbourhood wear only the
Ihhram upon their loins. Ti^e drefs of the wo-
men among the lower ranks is the feme which
is worn by the Arabian females in general ;
large drawers, a flowing Ihirt, and a veil. Ma-
ny of the poorer people are employed in fifhing,
by which they feera to earn but a fcanty iiv-

The

In ARABIA, iSc, 233

The country lying immediately around this
city, is fandy and barren. If we may believe
tradition, thefe regions have undergone no change
fince the creation ; for the tomb of Eve is ftill
fhewn in a fpot at no great diftance from the
fea. But, 1 have remarked fome fure indica-
tions of the fea having receded from the furface
of the land here as well as in other places. At
a certain diftance from the fhore, are hills en-
tirely compofed of coral-rock, and having a per-
fect refemblance to the banks of coral lying a-
long the coaft.

As I was walking by the harbour, 1 had an
opportunity of obferving a lingular pradlice,
which the Arabs ufe for taking up wild ducks.
The perfon, who is in fearch of the game, ftrips^
puts fea-weeds upon his head, and approaches
the bird. The duck, not being alarmed at the
light of the fea-weeds, ftirs not till the Arab
feizes it by the feet.

Pococke, and fome other travellers, were not
credited, when they fpoke of this mode of tak-
ing wild-fowls as pradlifed in China. But no
Fa 61 can be more certain (aa).

Vol. L

Chap.

^34

niebuhr's travels

Chap. V.

^he Government and Trade of Jidda»

Jidda has been always a part of the dominions
of the Sherriffe of Mecca. The Turkifh Suhan
fends^ indeed, a Pacha to this city ; but he is not
abfoliite fovereign of it. The fupreme authority
is iliared between the SherrifFe and the Turkifli
governor. The latter is changed every year ;
and accordingly refufes fometimes to obey the
Pacha ; as did the prefent Kiaja, in one inftance^
dilring our flay at Jidda.

The Sherriffe keeps an officer, who is called
his Yiiier, to reprefent him in this city ; and on
this Vifier, folely, do all ftich of the inhabi-
tants of Jidda, as are the SheriiFe's fubjeds,
depend. This officer is always chofen out
of the family of the SherrifFe, from among thofe
who afpire to the fovereign power. A defcend-
ent of a noble Arab family would not deign to
compear before a judge of a meaner birth.

The revenue arifing from the cuftoms isiliar^
ed between the Sultan and the SherrifFe ; upon
which account the Kiaja and the Vifier always
attend together, when goods are examined.

The

IN ARABIxV, <^C,

The dues of cuftom are fixed at 10 per cent, up-^
on the value of the goods, eftimated arbitrarily
by the cuftom-houfe officers ; fo that they may
be confidered as equal, in reality, to 12 or 15
per cent. The Engliih, however, are particular-
ly favoured, even more than the fubjedls of the
Sultan : They pay only 8 per cent, and are fuf-
fered to difcharge this in goods ; whereas all 0-
thers muft produce money.

Although the trade of Jidda is fo coniiderable,
yet this city is no more than a mart between E-
gypt and India. The Ihips from Suez feldom pro-
ceed farther than this port; and thofe from India
are not fufFered to advance to Suez. The m af-
ter of a veffel from Surat, being driven one year
too far north to enter the harbour of Jidda, pro-
ceeded to Su,ez, and there difcharged his cargo.
But he was put into prifon, next year, at Jidda,
and obliged to pay the full dues that would
have been charged at Jidda, upon the goods
which he had difpofed of at Suez.

Were it not for this advantage, the trade of
Suez would be very triöing. The circumjacent
country affords nothing but Tl^//' almonds for an
objeds of traffic ; of thefe, indeed, the Engliüi
carry five hundred thoufand weight a-year to
India. Balm of" Mecca is alfo brought hither
from the neighbourhood of Medina, as an article
for exportation.

■ ■ Th3

236

NIEBüHR's TRAVELS

The imports are greater, becaufc both Mecca
and Medina are to be fapplied from this mar-,
ket. Large quantities of corn, rice, lentiles, fu-^
gar, oil, &c. are imported fr©m Egypt, without
which this part of Arabia could not poffibly be
inhabited. All gooda from Europe come alfo
by the way of Egypt ; and, on the other hand,
thofe which are brought hithei: from India pafs
generally into Egypt.

Maiilet, w^ho reßded long in Cairo, imagined
that it might be of advantage to the nations of
Europe, to condud their trade to India by the
way of the Reü Sea. But it is doubtful, whe-
ther (hips would be allowed to pafs the harbour
of Jidda. Tney would undoubtedly meet with
much fraud and chicanery at Suez ; for the
proprietors of the veffels which trade at prefent
between the two harbours, are the moll refpec-
table merchants in Cairo. Befidcs, the exor-
bitant duties, which would be exad:ed, would
greatly curtail their profits. But European mer-
chants would hardly be hindered to fettle at
Jidda : One Englifliman has lived feveral years
here.

A circumftance, which muft always have an
unfavourable influence upon the flate of this
trade, is, the low Hate of the finances of the
Government which prefides here. Continually
in want of mojiev, they often require the pier-

chanX^

IN ARABIA, Uc. 23^7

jchants to advance fome part of the duties for
the next year, and promife to difcount what is
thus advanced, when it falls due. But thefe
advances, when once obtained, are left to ac-
cumulate, year after year, and will never be
repaid. The Englilh have not yet fubmitted
to thefe impolitions : but their firm refufal con-
tinually embroils them with the officers of {^o-
vernment.

No money is coined in. this province ; the
fpecie current here is all foreign, and the fame
as at Conftantinople and Cairo. Eut the larger
coins pafs at a higher rate here than in Cairo,
becaufe fmall money is more plentiful here^ than
even where it is coined. Pilgrims bring this a-
bundance of fmall money into the country, to
defray their travelling expences, and the alms
which they are obliged to beflow on their jour-
ney, and in the Holy City. That fmall money
is never carried out of the country ; and the
province is, by confequenA^e, abfolutely overflow-
ed with it.

I have had occaüon to fpeak of the trading
janilfaries. Thofe are properly merchants, who
have inroiled themfelves among the janifiaries,
that they m.ight be proteded by the privileges
of that body, from the impofitions to which they
would otherwife be expofed in conducing their
trufiic y but they perform no military duty, and

r^ceiv^

238 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

receive no pay. Such a janißary is independent
of the civil magiftrate : and amenable to no jud-
ges, but , the officers of the military body to which
he belongs. He enjoys alfo an exemption from
the payment of cuftom-houfe dues, for a trunk
and two baikets, which are allowed them for the
conveyance of their baggage and provifions. ^
But, inftead of baggage or provifions, the trading
janiffaries take care to fill the trunk and bafket^
with their moll precious goods. I have feen,
likewife, fome Ihip- captains and pilots who had
inrolled themfelves among the janilTaries, folely
to acquire importance^ and to fecure the protec-
tion of this powerful body, who are always ready
to fupport and defend a brother janifl^ary ; for
fuch janiflaries did not lhare the privileges of
their Turkiih brethren.

While we were in Jidda, the janiffary traders*
refenting the ftriclnefs with which their goods
were infpe6i:ed, threatened to defend themfelves
with the help of their fellows, from what they
called injuftice. The Kiaja and Vizier ordered
llrong detachments from the troops of the Pacha
and the Sultan, to attend them to the cuftom-
houfe ; and the mutineers were thus reprefted.
But after our departure, the janiffaries affembled
in arms : upon which the Pacha direded fome
cannons to be pointed againft the houfe in which

the

IN ARABIA, i^C. 239

Ae ringleaders were affembled, and all became
quiet (bb).

Chap VI.
Voyage from Jidda to JLohem.

Our orders were, to proceed as directly as pol-
fible to Temen; and nothing detained us at Jidda,
but the prevalence of the north wind, which
kept back the arrival of the fliips going thither
for coffee ; for there were none elfe with which
we could continue our voyage to the fouth of
the Arabic gulph. At laft, fome of thofe veifels
arrived in the beginning of December ; and we
Vv^ere advifed to take our palTage in a fliip from
Mafiate, bound to Flodeida, for a cargoe of cof-
fee.

We went in halle to fee this vefTel, but were
not a little furprifed to find it more like a hogf-
head than a fhip. It was only feven fathoms
Jong, by three in breadth. It had no deck ; its
planks were extremely thin, and feemed to be
only nailed together, but not pitched. The
Captain wore nothing but a linen cloth upon his
loins; and his failors, who were nine in num-
ber, and all black Haves from Africa or Malabar^
had nothing to cover their nakednefs^ but about

Kiebuhr's travel^

an hand-breadth of linen, bound upon then' haun»
ches with a cord. Our friends perfuaded us not
to ftickle at appearances, as the Arabs of Maf-
kate are eileemed good failors, and manage their
fails like European mariners ; whereas the fub-
jeds of the Imam are very unikilful navigators^
and ufe mats for fails, which it is very difficult
to manage. We took their advice, and agreed
with the mailer, for our pallage to Hodeida.
. Our hril intention had been, to go ftraight by
fea to Mokha, as w^e hoped that fome Englilh
veflels might be found there. But we were toldj
that this palTage would be extremely tedious,
and that we might travel more agreeably by
land, and could meet with no moieftation in
the dominions of the Imam. However, the dan-
ger of living among Arabs, w^hom we reprefent-
d to ourfelves fuch as thofe whom we had feen
in the defart, ilill dwelt upon our imagination.
But our friends again a{rured us, that our fears
were groundlefs ; and we accordingly determin-
ed to land at Loheia, or rather at Hodeida, as we
ihould thus begin the fooner to traverfe . Arabia
the happy. The Kiaja gave us letters to the
Dolors, or governors of Loheia and Hodeida :
and the merchants to whom we had been recom-
mended, gave us others to fome of the principal
merchants in thofe two cities. The Pacha gave

orders^

IN ARABIA, i^C.

241

orders, tliat our baggage fhould pafs unexamin-
ed.

We had freighted the veiTel for ourfelve^ a-
lone ; hut yet we found it laden with goods.
The mafler excufed this by telling us, that thefe
were abfolutely necelTary for ballaft. A fmall
fpace was however allotted to each of us, which
we found fpread with a ftraw mat, intended e-
qually for a feat and a bed upon which we might
fleep if we could. Bales of goods occupied eve-
ry place elfe, except one fmall corner, which
ferved as a kitchen. It w^as impoffible therefore,
to walk or take the ieaft exercife. Mr Cramer
loft his watch the firft night between the boards
and a mat of branches of trees, which was fpread
all over the bottom of the velTel, to keep the
goods dry. It was found undamaged, when we
reached Loheia ; a circumilance which proves
that the timber of thofe velTels is more clofely
joined than one vv^ould at firft imagine.

We fet out from Jidda on the 13th of Decem-
ber, and our Captain followed the pradice of
cafting anchor every night ; although the banks
of coral are lefs numerous in the fouthern, than
in the northern part of the Arabic gulph. If
w^e had feen few towns or villages.between Suez
and Jidda, we faw not more between Jidda a,nd
Loheia.

Vol, L H h Our

niebuhr's travels

Our voyage was uniformly fafe and pleafant.
We obferved fome flying fiflies^ which the Arabs
cali fea locuils. On the fixth day of our voyagCj,
we overtook a veflel belonging to Hodeida, which
had failed from Jidda three days before us.
This was an inflance of the flow-failing of the
fhips of Temen^ whofe mat-fails receive fo little
wind, that often the Arabs can fcarce get out of
the harbour. We faw alfo feveral fmall veflels,
which proceeded in fuch a manner, as to ihew
l^hemfelves to be managed by men of much more
fpirit than the Turkifli failors. '

After feven days failing, we anchored near
Ghunfude, a confiderable city, but confifl:ing
merely of huts. It belongs to the Sherriffe of
Blecca, and is governed by one of his officers^
who lives in a fmall ifle, at fome diftance from
the city. He is obliged to pafs daily between
the ifle and the town, in order to attend the re-
ceipt of the cufloms. All the fhips which are
employed in carrying coffee to Jidda, are oblig-
ed to anchor here, and pay a duty to the Sher-
riffe. They are under no neceflity of fl:opping
on their return ; if the crew, however^ wifli to
go on fhore, they may obtain a general permif-
lion for the payment of two crowns.

Next day after our departure from Ghunfude,
where we fliayed only one day, we pafled within
fi^ht of Hali, where the Sherriffe of Mecca keeps

lir ARABIA, Uc.

H3

a garrifon. This city is upon the confines of his
dominions, and upon the border of the province
of Hedjas. The neighbouring Arabs belong to
^ Yemen.

As our captain needed provifiotis, we had an
early opportunity of forming acquaintance with
thofe independent Arabs who live between the
dominions of the two SherrifFes of Mecca and
hu-Arifch, They are governed by Schiechs of
their own, and profefs a religion which feems to
have been that of their anceftors before Mahomet
arofe. We had heard it mentioned, that thofe
people have a ftrong inclination to appropriate
the clothes of travellers: in imitation of our fliip»
captain, therefore, we drefTed ourfelves modeftly
and fimply, in indifferent fhirts, and in this guifc
went on fhore unarmed, Some men imm^ediate-
ly advanced to meet us ; inilead of a turban?
they wore only a firing upon the head, to con-
fine the hair ; and a cloth upon the loins v/as
all the reft of their drefs. Conceiving our beha-
viour to be expreffive of fufpicion and diftriift*
they threw down their lances, and told us that
Vve had nothing to fear.

As we wifhed to purchafe provifions, they led
us to their tents. As we approached, two
women came out to meet us, and refpe£lfully
kiffed the arms of the Schiechs, who Idffed
their heads in return. They wore no veils
H h 3 upon

244 niebuhr's travels

upon their faces ; their eyes were blackened
with lead ore ; and they had black fpots impref-
fed, as ornaments upon ihtir bro-w, cheeks, and
chin. Thofe beauties, whofe complexion was a
yellowiih brown, and who were ahiioft naked,
immediately alked us for Kochhel, to blacken
their eyes, and for Elheune, to dye their nails yel-
low. We were not a little mortified, that we
had forgotten to provide oürfelves in thofe arti-
cles, by which we might have been enabled to
gratify the eagernefs of thofe fair ones for drefs,
and to fupply them with powerful aids to their
charms. They regaled us with milk and butter,
which had been kept in goat Ikins, and gave us
bad bread to eat with thefe dainties. They
were not difpleafed at our paying them before-
hand. Although wanderers in the defart, they
feemed to us more civilized than molt of the o^
ther Bedouin tribes.

Next day, after this interview, we halted near
a mountain called Konemhel^ fituate in the mid-
dle of the fea, and faid by the Arabs to have
been originally a volcano. It may polfibly be
the remains of that burning iiland which is plac-
ed by Arrian and Ptolemy in thefe latitudes.
We faw, likewife, not far off, the city of Gefan,
fituate japon a tongue of land, on the coaft ; but
we did not venture to approach it ; for the Sher-

riffe

IN ARABIA, Uc,

M5

riffe to whom it belongs bears the chatader of
being inhofpitable to ftrangers.

On the 29th of December, we arrived in the
harbour of Loheia, and caft anchor within a
league of the town.

SECTION

246

Ki£BUHR*S TRAVELS

SECTION VIIL

ROUTE FROM LOHEIA TO BEIT EL FAKIH„

Chap. I«

Of ourßay at Lo/ma, ^

Between Suez and Loheia, we had heard much
of the independent Schiechs, who are unwil-
ling to fufFer ftraihgers to enter their dominions.
From this circumftanee, we could not readily
credit what was told us concerning the eafe and
fecurity with which we might travel through
the territories of the Imam of Sana. It was for
this reafon, that we had wiflied to go ftraight by
fea to Mokha ; although we bad been often e-
nough oppofed by contrary winds, to make us
weary of this mode of travelling. Two mer-
chants of Mokha, who had fet out with us, deter„
mined, hov^ever, to continue their journey by
land. We thought it might be proper to accom-
pany

IN ARABIA, b^".

pany them into the city, where we might learn
from the governor, whether we could be fafe
to travel by land between Loheia and Mokha,

Dola, or Emir, is the title which the Arabs
^ive to the governors of cities. He of Loheia
was an Emir, and his name was Farhan, He
was a native of Africa, and entirely black ; but
had been brought into Arabia in his youth, and
fold to a man of rank, who was lince dead, after
having occupied one of the firft offices in the fervice
of the Imam. He had given young Farhan a good
education, and had obtained for him afmall of-
fice, in which he gave fo much fatisfadlion, that
his merit foon raifed him to be Dola of a confi-
derable city. We found him to poiWs the dig-
nified politenefs of a nobleman, the fliridefi: in-
tegrity, and the candid benevolence of a truq
friend to mankind.

We explained to him our fituation ; and told
him that v/e were Europeans, and wiflied to
go by Hodeida to Mokha, where we hoped to
find fome Englifli fhips, in whic h we might
take our paiTage to India ; but, being Grangers
to the country through which we were to tra-
vel, had brought a letter to him from the Kiaja
of Jidda, and another from one of the princi-
pal merchants in Jidda to Machfen-el-Makka-
wifch, the chief merchant in Loheia. The E-
nur had known a good many Europeans, or

Eranks

NiEBUHR's TRAVELS

Franks, at Mokha, but had never before feea
any arrayed in the garb of the Eaft, which is,
however, univerfally worn by the Oriental Chri-
llians. We knew, that the Muffulmans regard
Chriftians with greater efteem than thofe of any
other religious community except their own.
When we were aiked, therefore, by Emir Far-
ban, whether we were Franks or Nazarites, we
replied that we were both ; fearing that he
might perhaps take the Europeans for Pagans^
Mdschfen, the merchant, was then fick ; but the
Emir fent for his clerk, to receive the letter in
our hands, addrelTed to him.

Hitherto, this governor had known no Euro«
peans but India merchants. He was furprifed,
when he under ftood, from the letters, that one
of us was a phyfician ; another in fearch of
plants ; and a third, an obferver of ftars. Struck
with this iingularity, and fuppoßng that we
might notbe in very great hafte, he propofedtcus
to flay fome time at Loheia, offering to fend us
to Mokha upon his own camels. Mcefchen, the
merchant, who needed a phyfician, earneftly in«
vited us, at the fame time, to take up our lod-
gings in one of his houfes.

We were delighted thus to find the Arabs
more civilized the farther v^^'e proceeded from
Egypt, and to meet with fo polite a reception
among the people who were the obje6ls of our

enquiries.

I N ARABIA,, is'c.

enquiries. We were ftill more delighted to find
that people themfelves contributing to afford us
opportunities of tranfyerfing their country unfuf-
peded. To hide our joy at the propofal, we ex-
prelTed our fears of danger in travelling fo near the
feat of the war between the the Schiech of Mek-
krami and the Sherriffe oi Abu Arifch. But the
£mir alFured us, that we lliould be fafeJiDm
all danger at Loheia, and might travel in full
fecurity through the whole territories of his maf-
ter the Imam..

We no longer heütated to quit the vefleL
The captain, not having taken the precaution
to exad: payment for our pafiage, when we came-
firfl on board, now applied to the governor, beg-
ging him to compel us to pay in full for our paU
fage to Hodeida. The Emir generoufly replied,
that he would pay his demand from his own
purfe, ifwerefufed; and the merchant Mcsch-
fen made the. fame, promife. We did not put
the generofity of our Arabian friends to . the
trial ; but felt ourfelves deeply indebted, to them
for their offers and fervices,.

When we fpoke of the conveyance of our bag-
gage to the fliore, . the Emir fent his own boat
for it ; and, to fpare us all trouble, direded the
merchant's clerk to fatisfy the officers of the
cuiloms. In the evenmi^', he fent us an excel-
lent fheep, as a prefent of welcome, and accom-

VoL. I. I i panied

KIEBUHR^'S TRAVSia

panied it with a letter, in whicli he called ms
his giiefts, and affured ua of his friendfliip. His
boat having only mat-fails, moved fo fiowly, that
we could not bring all our efFecls on fhore in
one day, which gave us fome concern, left we
might lofe what remained behind, or be robbed
of what lay on the ihore. The Emir, under-
ftanding that we were uneafy upon this head^
immediately fent fome foldiers to guard our bagn
gage.

V/e paifed the night on the fliore, whithei:
our good friend Maechfen, who very naturally
fuppofed that our cooking utenfils rauft be yet in
confufion, fent us an excellent fupper. Nothing
was wanting but wine ; and our ftock of bad bran-
dy, which we had brought from Jidda, was by
this time finiftied. We might have^fupplied our-=.
felves with wine, and other liquors, from the
Jews of Sana, who manufadure large quanti-
ties of thofe articles : but we ihould have been,
obliged to carry tliem in copper veftels, which
would have rendered them noxious to the
health. They offered us a fort of bowza, which
we found naufeous. We were therefore obliged
to content ourfelves with the profpecl of living
without ftrong liquors of any kind for fome
months.

Our trunks were carried next day to the cuA
tom-houfe : they were opened ; and we v»7ere

¥ik Arabia, &Co i^t

afraid that Ihey might be ftriclly examinedo
But the cuftom-houfe officers behaved with great
civility. We had remarked, that the Emir's at-
tention was fixed upon our inftruments folely, and
that he feemed anxious tö underftand the ufes
of them : We therefore explained to him what-
ever he wifhed to know« Mr For&al üiewed
him fome fmall objedls through a microfcope ;
and he was moil agreeably furprifed to fee mi-
nute infed:s magnified to fo large a iize.

The houfe ai!igne4 us for a lodging was
built in the Eafteni famion^ with a fquare court
in the middle. There was not one well-fur-
nifhed room in it ; yet it conßfted of feverai
diilinä: apartments, into which the entrance was
through an open gallery, which extended all
^ around it. This lodging was far from being ele-
gant, in comparifon with the fplendid inns in
Europe ; but in Arabia, it was both elegant and
commodious. At firft, our court v/as conftant-
ty filled with crowds of people, curious to fee
us. This we found troublefome ; and therefore
hired: a portei", who fuffered none to enter, but
perfons who had bufinefs to tranfad with u.s»

I 12

Ghap»

iiiE buhr's travels

Chap. It

Of the City of Loheia,

The city of Loheia has flood only for theifc
three centuries. Its founder and patron was a
Mahometan faint, called Schiech Schlei, who
feuilt a hut on the fliore where Loheia now
Hands, and fpent there the reft of his days as a
hermit. After his deaths a Kabbet, or houfe of
prayer, was raifed over his tomb ; and it was
afterwards by degrees embelliihed and endowed.,
Some devout perfons, imagining that it would
be a great happinefs to them to live near the re-
mains of fo holy a perfon, built huts for them-
felves about his tomb. Nearly at the fame time,
the harbour of Marabea, a neighbouring city*
in which a governor refidcd, was fdled up. The
inhabitants, upon this, deferted their city, and
fettled at Loheia, whither the feat of Govern-
ment was alfo transferred.

I remarked, upon this occafion, that the Sun-
nites^ the prevalent fed in this province, al-
though forbidden by the Koran to pay any ads
of worfhip to created beings, yet regard their

faints

faints with very lingular veneration. In this
part of Arabia, the pofterity of the faints are
■ treated with as much refped as is fhewn to the
pofterity of Mahomet at Mecca. Every per-
fon w^ho can number a reputed faint among his
anceftors, is dignified with the title of Schiech,
and coniidered as an ecclefiaftic by birth. Fa-
milies thus find it their intereft to eftabiifh,^ by
every poffible means, the fandlity of the perfon
to whom they owe their origin, and to main-
tain the authenticity of the miracles afcribed to
him. In this manner is fuperftition daily ex-
tending its influence among the Mahometans,
and feigned miracles are conilantly multiplying.
The territory of Loheia is arid and barren.
The harbour is fo indifferent, that even the
fmalleft veffels are obliged to anchor at a great
diftance from the city ; and, when the tide is
at ebb, laden boats cannot approach near it.
Notwithftanding this difadvantage, a coniidera«
ble trade in coffee is carried on from Loheia ;
the coffee is brought from the neighbouring hills,
and expofed in one large heap for fale. This
coffee is not reputed to be fo good as that which
comes from Beit el Fakih, and is fliipped at Mok»
ha and Hodeida. But coffee is to be purchafed
here upon more reafonable terms ; and the car-
riage to Jidda cofts lefs. On this account, fe-
veral merchants from Cairo live at Loheia, and

others

klEBÖHU^S XkAtEIS'

Others come annually hitherto make purcliafes of
coffee. In this city, are alfo forty poor Banians^^
employed in different trades.

Loheia, although without walls, is not entlre«
ly defencelefs. Twelve towers, guarded by foi-
diers, Hand at equal diftances round it. Thefe
towers refemble thofe in fome of the imperial ci-
tdesof Germany ; the height of its gates renders
it neceffary to climb up to them upon ladders-.
In Turkey, and even in Europe, it would have
"been dangerous to approach near fuch fortifica-
tions^ in order to examine them. But the Arab
guards fat fmoking their pipes, and drinking-
Kijcher\ and gave me no interruption in my walks
^bout them. Some of the officers even invited
me to lit dov/n and partake of their refrefhmentSi
They put many queflions to me concerning the
military (kill of the Europeans^ and feemed to
be furprifed at what I told them. I fhewed them
mr invention for vv^iting without ink, and in
their prefence^ drew with a pencil, the lines and
angles neceffary for laying down the plan of the
-city, while they had no fufpicion of my purpofe^
but called on their comrades from the neighbour-
ing towers to fee my exhibitione

Only one of thofe towers, and that newly
built by Emir Farhan, is fuch as to admit of be->
ing defended by cannons. The reff are fo ill
built, that the Arabs of Hajchld, fome time fmce,

mada

IN ARABIA, Uc,

made tlieir way through them, and "Bre to
the city. The inhabitants are feolible af the
weaknefs qf their fortifications. After our d€par-,
ture, upon forne hundreds of thofe Arabs advanc-
ing through the province, towards the fhore^
many of the inhabitants left Loheia, and tooi
refuge in a fmali ifland, carrying with them their
mofl- precious efFecla. But their terror proved
to have been premature ; for Emir Farhan no
fooner put his troops in motion, than thofe con-
temptible enemies retreated.

Several of the houfes in Lobeia are built of
ftone ; but the greater part are huts conilrudeii
in that fafaion which is common among the A-
rabs. The walls are of mud mixed with dung ;
and the roof is thatched with a fort of grafs w^iich
Is very common here. Around the walls, vv'ith-
in, are a range of beds made of ilraw, on which^
notwithftanding their fimpucity, aperfon may ei-
ther fit or ly commodioufly enough. Such a houfe
is not large enough to be divided into feparate a-
partments ; it has f^ldom window^s, and its door
is only a ftraw mat. When an Arab has a fami-
ly and cattle, hebuilds^ for their accommodation^
feveral fuch huts, and indoles the whole with a
Urong wooden fence. The population of the ci-
ties of Arabia, therefore^ cannot be proportionate
to their extent.

Lime.

NIEEUHR's TRAVEJ.S

Lime is prepared in the neighbourhood of thi%
city, by the calcination of coral from the fea, ir^
the open air, and without a furnace. In the lar-.
ger maifes, when they were broken, we often fawr
qblong fliells, with the animal flill alive withia
them. Thefe feas abound in beautiful fhella
and uncommon fifhes.

The water at Loheia is very bad, and is brought^
from a diflance. The common people drink,
from a well^ which is a league from the city,.
The belt water, which, however, cannot bepraif-^
ed as good, comes from two leagues and a half's
diftance. As wheeled carriages are unknown
here, this water is carried upon camels or afles ;
Mot in llvins, as in Egypt and Turkey, but in
earthen jars, a number of which hang upon eacL
iide of a camel. "Within two leagues of the ci=..
ty is a fmall hill which affords confiderable quan«
titles of mineral fait..

■ Ghap. lit.

Of the Inhahitants of Lohiia^

From all that we faw, and from all that befel;
us in this city, we judged the inhabitants to be-
curious, intelligent, and poliüied in their man-
ners*

IN ARABIA, l^C.

ds7

Rers. All were eager to fee the Europeans, and
the wonders which they performed. After we
had employed a porter, thofe who had no other
pretext upon which they might obtain admiffion
to us, pretended to confult our phyßcian. One
alked him to feel his pulfe, and to tell him what
medicines or regimen he flood in need of; while
another enquired^ how it came that he could not
lleep ?

We had one opportunity of learning their i-
deas of the benefits to be derived from medicine»
Mr Cramer had given a fcribe a vomit, which o-
perated with extreme violence. The Arabs be-
ing llruck at its wonderful effedis, refolved
all to take the fame excellent remedy ; and
the reputation of our friend's ikill thus became
very high among them. The Emir Bahr, or in-
fpeclor of the port, fent oüe day for him ; and
as he did not go inimediately, the Emir foon af-
ter, fent a faddled horfe to our gate. Mr Cra-
mer, fuppoling that this horfe was intended to
bear him to the Emir, was going to mount him,
when he was told, that this was the patient he
was to cure. We luckily found out another
phyfician in our party. Our Swedifli fervant
had ferved among the hulTar troops in his native
country, and in that fervice, had learned feme
knowledge of the difeafes ofhorfes. He offer-
ed to cure the Emir's horfe, and fucceededo

Vol L K k The

258 NIEBUItR's TRAVELS

The cure rendered him famous : and lie was of-
ten fent for afterwards, to human patients. The
Arabian phyficians extend their care equally to
men and4iorfes, and even to all other creatures.

When we fliewed our microfspopes to Emir
Farhan at the cuftomhoufe, the other Arabs were
all afloniftied as well as he, to fee the fize of the
infecls fo much magnified, A förvant, who faw
one of thofe .magnified infeds^ faid that they
were the growth of Europe, and that thofe of
rabia, were, in comparifon, exceedingly diminu-
tive. But, nothing furprifed the people of dif-
tinöion more, than when they faw through a
telefcope, a woman walking: they could not
conceive how it happened, that although fhc ap-
peared topfy-turvy, yet her under garments did
not turn about her ears, and exclaimed repeat-
edly, Allah Akbar, God is Great.

The children, obferving that we gathered in-
feds, brought great numbers, which they afked
us to buy. Thofe who v/ere grown up, fhewed
alfo many indications of a turn for induftry, which
if properly direded and encouraged, might ren-
der this people a commercial nation.

Two Arabs came, one day, to fee us eat. The
one was a young nobleman of Sana, who had re-
ceived a good education ; the other a man of fome
confequence, from the province of Hachtan^
where itw ilrangers are ever feen, and the great--

eft

IN ARABIA, yc<,

259

eit limplicity of manners ftill prevails. When
we invited them to dine with us, the latter ear-
neftly replied, " God preferve me from eating

with inndels who believe not in God."
When I ailved him fome particulars concerning
his country, he replied, What is my country

to you ? Do you ^vant to conquer it?" He
was aftoniihed at every thing he faw, our fpoons,
our plates, our forks. He afked fome fihiple
queilions which excited laughter. He then went
out in a paffion, and his companion from Sana
had fome difficulty to perfuade him back.
When he came back, he faw whole fowls bef©re
us, which furprifed that fober Arab not a little,
as he imagined that we had eaten too much be-
fore. When, at laft, he faw Mr Von Haven a-
bout to carve one of thefe fowls, he ftepped for-
ward, and feized him by the arm, faying, with
a peevilh tone, What I wilt thou eat ftill ?"
He then went out in aa^age, and would not re-
turn. The young man from Sana apologized
for him, and begged us to excufe the fimplicity
of his countryman.

Mr Bdureniiend and I fometimes diverted our-
feives with playing on the violin, which led
fuch as happened to overhear us, to think us mu-
licians. A rich merchant fent for us to come
with our inilruments to his hoiife. We refufed,
becaufe the Arabs look with contempt upon mu-
K k 2 licians

a6q -^ni:ebuhr's travels

ficians by profeffion. The merchant, being old,
and not able to walk fo far, mounted an
afs, and came with two fervants fupporting him,
to onr houfe, in order to gratify his curiofity, by
feeing and hearing us. He was very polite, and
alTured us, that he had no averfion to Chriftians ;
for, that a diverfity of religions was tolerated by
God, the Creator of all. After fome converfa-
tion, he expreifed a wifh to fee our violins, and
hear us play upon them. W e played fome fo-
lemn tunes, which are more to the tafte of the
Orientals, than our gayer mufici He feemed to
be pleafed, and offered each of us half a crown
^t parting. The Arabs refufe no prefents, how-
ever fmall, and he was not a little furprifed when
we declined accepting his money ; efpecially as
he could not conceive what inducements any
perfon could have to learn mufic, if not to gain
by it.

This mercbant^vvas one of thofe few who wear
their beards dyed red ; a cuftom which feems to
be difappro\^ed by the more judicious Arabs. His
reafon to us was, that a red beard was handfom-
er than a white one ; but others told us^ that he
bad the weaknefs to think to conceal his age by
this filly difguife. He told us, that he was a-
bove fe^^enty years of age ; but his acquaintance
affirmed that he v/as not under ninety. We had
obferved of the MulTulmans in general, hov/ever,

that

IN ARABIA, i$C,

261

that they feldom know their own age exaäily.
They reckon by the moft remarkable incidents in
their lives, and fay, I v/as a child when fuch an
event happened, orv/heniucha one was governor
of the province or city.

This merchant often afterwards invited us to
his houfe, and became at length fo familiar, as,
to entertain us with a detail of his adventures^
If we might believe his ftory, he had enjoyed,
one after another, near an hundred young and
beautiful female flaves, all of whom he had fold,
given 'in marriage, or reilored to liberty, after
keeping them for fome time. He had ftill two
of thefe ; and he would die content, he faid, if
he could only forget the frailty of old age now
and then in their coanpany ° he offered to make
our phyßcian a coniiderable prefent, if he cpuld
reftore him fo much of the vigour of youth, as
might qualify him for this enjoyment. Another
m.erchant, who was fifty years of age, had pro-
mifed our phyücian an hundred crov^ns, if he
vv^ould give him fome remedies to fit him for the
enjoyment of fome young and beautiful female
flaves, whom he had in a houfe at Mecca. Buj^
he was fo exhaufted by exceiTive indulgence, that
neither Mr Cramer's prefcription, not yet thofe
of the furgeons of fome Englifli Ihips, whom he
had before confulted, could reftore his genial
vigour.

The

202 NIEBUHR's TRAVELS.

The women of Loheia wear large veils in the
fireet, which cover their countenances fo en-
tirely, that only one of their eyes can be difco-
vered, and that but imperfedly. Yet they make
no difficulty • of unveiling before ftrangers, as
they pafs, efpecially if they happen to think
tliemfelves pretty, and are fure that they are
not obferved by any of their countrymen. Mr
Eaurenfeind made a drawing of one of thofe fe-
males. Her brow, cheeks, and chin, were or»
nam^ented with black fpots, imprelTed into the
fliin, and fiie had alfo. her eyes artificially black-
ened.

^ ^ ChafI¥.

Departure from Loheia*

After examining all that feemed worthy of.
fiotice in this city, and its neighbourhood^ we
became deiirous to proceed on our journey, and
to^ vifit the other parts of Yemen. It was requi-
iite, however, that v/e fhould affign a reafon to
our friend Farhan for our earneftnefs to depart*
By good fortune we learned that an Englifli vef-
fel was arrived at Mokha : but this velTel, the
Emir well knew, was not to fail from that har»~
bour till June. We told him, therefore, that we

had

IN ARABIA, ISc,

had fome immediate buiinefs to tranfaSl witli
our countrymen that were newly arrived ; upon,
which account we meant to fet out for Beit el
Fakih, and after refting there a fnort time, to con->
tinue our journey to Moldia. He anfitered, that
we ,were furely dilTatisfied with our entertain-
ment at Loheia, otherwife we would not think
of quitting it fo foon ; and yet no governor could
take m.ore concern to ferve us than he. After
convincing him that we were adually under a
neceffity of fetting out for Mokha, we prepared
for our departure.

We had made a large coUeöion of natural cii-
riofities, the carriage of which by land v/ouM
have coft a great expence. We refolved, there-
fore, to fend by fea our trunks, and all the bag-
gage that we were not likely to need at Beit el
Fakih. The governor did us the kindnefs , of
fending, by the fame conveyance, a letter to the
Bola of Mokha, in which he ailced him to fufFer
our effedis to remaiu untouched at the cuftoro.-
houfe, till we ourfelves fiiould arrive.

When we fent to take leave of our friend Yjn'it
Farhan, he was indifpofed,. and we could not fee
him. But when he heard, that we had deter-
mined to fet out, he defired that we would come,
to him very late in the evening. We found
him in company with feveral Arabs ; before hiiu
lay an Englifli telefcope which I had lent him^

264 NiEBUHn's TRAVELS

a piece of filk flulF, and a parcel of crowns. Hö
would return me my telefcope, tut I infilled that
he fhould keep it ; which, after long refufal, he
atlaft, with vifible fatisfadion, confented to do.
The piece of iilk, with twenty crowns, were a
prefent intended for our phyfician ; and the reft
of the crow^ns he prelled us to accept, in order
to pay the hire for our alTes and camels. He and
his company teftified the ftrongeft furprize, when
they faw us refufe the money thus offered us ;
for inftead of refußng, Turkiüi travellers are
ready to demand fuch gratuities.

We were unwilling to be burthenfome to the
Arabs, and w^ould therefore accept of nothing
from them, without making a recompenfe. We
made the Emir a prefent of a watch, which, hav-
ing never before had one of his own, he knew
not how to managCi A merchant from Cairo^
who was fettled at Loheia, promifed to wind it
up every day. We parted v»^ith fincere regret
from this good governor.

We hired camels for our baggage, and horfes
for ourfelves. In Arabia, Chriftians are not pro-
hibited the ufe of horfes ; but thefe can rarely be
had for hire. The ufual mode of travelling here,
£5 upon alTes ; w^hich in- this province are large,
ftrong, fpirited, and w^alk with, a pace, not the
tnoft pleafant to the rider.

Travelling

IN ARABIA, '(Je,

Travelling being as little expofed to danger
in Yemen, as in any other country in the world,
we did not need to wait for the fetting out of a-
ny caravan. We therefore left Loheia alone, on
the 20th of February, fending the camels before,
and following them ourfelves, within a few hours?
upon our afles.

Chap. V.

Route by Tehama,

The territory of Yemen is naturally divided
into two diilind provinces. That part which
borders on the Arabic gulpli is a fandy plain,
which, as it fpreads backward, rifes by a gradual
afcent, into hills, and terminates in a lofty range
of mountains. The plain is called Tehama,
We had to crofs it on our way to Beit el Fakih.

In the firft day of our journey, we travelled
through a parched and barren tracffc of country, a-
long an arm of the fea, which penetrates a conß-
derable way into the land. We reded in a coffee-
houfe fituate near a village. Mokeya is the name
given by the Arabs to fuch coffee- houfes \vhich
ftand in the open country, and are intended, like
our inns, for the accommodation of travellers.

Vol. L LI They

a66 niebuhr's travels

They are mere huts, and are fcarcely furniflied
with a Serir, or long feat of ftraw ropes ; nor do
they afford any refrefhment but Kifcher, 2l hot
infufion of coffee-beans. This drink is ferved
out in coarfe earthen cups ; but perfons of dif-
tin6lion carry always porcelain cups in their bag-
gage. Frefh water is diilributed gratis. The
mafler of the coffee-houfe lives commonly in
fome neighbouring vijiage, whence he comes e-
very day to wait for pafTengers.

After a journey of fix German miles, we arriv-
ed by midnight, at a large city in which a Sub-
J)o/ß refides, with a few foldiers. Eniir Farhari
had given us a letter to the deputy-governor^
wuth an order to the inhabitants to fupply us with
a fheep, v/hich, however, we did not chufe to
accept. But we came afterwards to underfland,
that the inhabitants had been obliged to pay a
fum of money equivalent to the value of the
fheep, which had been fhared between the Sub-
Dola and a fervant of the Emir's who accompa-
nied us, upon bufinefs of his own. In the other
villages through which we paffed, therefore, we
made no difficulty of accepting the fneep which
the Emir had ordered us. ^

Through the whole country, we found water
fcarce and bad. But we met with many large
villages, lefs diflant from one another than we
fliould have expeded in fo barren a plain. Me"

negre

IN ARABIA, y^"o

267

igre is one of thofe villages, of which we were
led to take particular notice, by finding in it the
firft Man/ale that we faw. A Manfale is a houfe
in which travellers are received and entertained
gratis, if they will be content with fuch treat-
ment as is ufual in the country j they are all lod-
ged in one common apartment, which is furnifli-
ed with a Serir, and are ferved with Kifcber^
hot millet bread, camels milk and butter. When
the mafter of this Manfale underllood that fome
European guefts were arrived, he came to fee
whether his fervants treated us properly ; and
was going to kill a llieep for our entertainment,
if we had flayed longer. He caufed wheat bread
to be baked for us, which is in this province ve-
ry rare ; and made them bring cow-milk, when
he faw us naufeate the vifcidity of the camel's
milk. Our Arabian fervant let us know, that he
might be difobliged, if we fhould offer any com-
penfation for his kind hofpitality ; but the atten-
dant who ferved us with thofe things, took an op-
portunity, in a place where he could not be feeii
by his mafter, to alk a fmall gratuity.

At Dahhi, a large village, where is a mofque,
the tomb of a faint, and feveral houfes built of
ftone, we ftayed a whole day. Near this, we
faw a tannery, and a manufacture of earthen
ware, v^^hich is prepared in the open air, and
without a furnace. We faw, like wife; indigo
L 1 2 manufa<5lured

268

i^iebüiir's travels

manu fadu red here ; it is fold at a cheap rate,
but is of a bad quality. Much of this dying fluflf
is ufed here ; for the women, among the com-
monalty, wear blue fhirts and drawers.

From this village, there is a direä: road lead-
ing to Beit el Fakih. But the trad of country
through which it paffes, is extremely arid, and
almoft uninhabited, and affords fcarcely any wa-
ter. We therefore preferred a longer road, near-
er the mountains, and found reafon to be pleafed
with our choice ; for we met with feveral fmall
woods, a number of villages fkirted with bufhcFj,
and many wells, which were from an hundred
and fixty, to an hundred and feventy feet deep .
but happily for both men and beafts, dug in flop-
ping ground ; for, as the water is to be raifed
by a cord dragging a leathern bucket, this is
more eaiily accompliflied in a going down hill
than if the ground were barely level, or an afcent
were to be climbed.

We paffed two large villages, under the jurif«
didion of the governor of Beit el Fakih ; but in
neither of thefe did any thing remarkable offer
itfelf to our obfervation. But in two places up-
on this journey, we faw fpots fcattered with
fmall villages, bearing all the fame name ; from
which we were led to think, that fomc fmall
detached tribes might have fettled, each in a par-
ticular diftrid of this province. We paffed alfo

tWG

IN ARABIA, y^r. 269

two of thofe vallies fo common in Arabia, which,
when heavy rains fall, are filled with water, and
are then called wadi, or rivers, although perfed-
Ij dry at other times of the year.

After refting a night in one of thofe wretched
coffee- houfes, we arrived, in the morning of the
25th of February at Beit el Fakih, and had our
trunks fent immediately to the cuftom-houfe ;
but they were not infpecl:ed till noon, and then
in the prefence of the Dola. We^ in the mean
time, delivered letters ofj recommendation from
Maechfen of Loheia to Amhar Seif, one of the
principal merchants in Beit el Fakih. This
worthy man received us in a very obliging^man-
ner, hired us a houfe, faw our efFe6ls carried
thither, and iilvited us to dine with him, till
we could have matters put into order in our ows
habitation*

Cha?. VL

Of the C'lt^ of Belt el Fahh

This city is fituated on a plain, which, at
though far from being naturally fertile, is, how-
ever, carefully cultivated. The houfes join not

one

27Ö NIEBtTHR'S TRAVELS

one to another, but are built feparate. Many
are of ftone; and the mode of building is every
day. improving : many, however, are ftill irl
that ftyie of architeäiure which I had occafion
to remark when fpeaking of Loheia. In the ci-
ty of Beit el Fakih is a citadel, which is thought
of the utmoll: importance in a country where
armies are without artillery.

The houfe v/hich we occupied was a build-
ing of flone ; but the proprietor had been dif-
lodged by a fpecies of ants, named, by the A-
rabs, Ard, Thefe ants, which are well known
to naturaliils, form covert ways, through which
they introduce themfelves into houfes, where
they deftroy equally cloths and provißons of all
kinds. They are not lefs troublefome in gar-
dens, where they alfo form their covert ways,
between the root and the top of trees, wafting
the fap, and devouring the buds and the extre-
mities of the branches. Our chambers were
full of them : We took the meafures which are
ordinarily employed, to quit ourfelves of them ;
deftroying their cells and palTages feveral times
focceffiveiy. Tlie infed indeed reftores thefe
With, amazing rapidity, efpecially in the dark j
but it at length yields. On our way hither,
we had obferved a number of buihes covered
with earth, in which were a vaft quantity of
galleries form.ed by thofe little animals. The

Ihrub

IN ARABIA, ' 271;

fhrub which they had attacked in this manner
was always withered.

The city of Beit el Fakih is not of ancient
origin. It has exifted only for fome centuries;
and, like Loheia, owes its rife to a faint, called
Achmed iba Mufa, from whom it has derived its
name ; Beit el Fakih meaning the houje or dwel-
ling of the Jage. The tomb of that faint is
ihewn without the city, upon a fandy hili,
where a fine mofque has been reared. At firft,
fome devout perfons built themfeives cottages,
round the tomb. The harbour of Ghalejka was
about the fame time choaked up ; and the in-
habitants of that city, for the convenience of
trade, then removed all their eitecls to the vi-
cinity of this tomb, and fettled about it. When
it had thus become a confidcrable city, the
Lord of the territory built a citadel for its de-
fence, in a place where water had been found.
The city is now nearer the tomb ; and the vi-
cinity of the tomb is almoil deferted.

That faint w^s a great worker of miracles.
The following is the rnoft wonderful which he
performed. A Turkilh Pacha, who had been
for twenty years a captive in Spain, where he
was bound with maffy and ponderous chains to
two large Hones, had long invoked, in vain, the
aid of feveral different faints^ At laft, he be-
thought him of the great Achmed, and invoked

hini

17- KirBUHR's TRAVELS

, flim alfo in his turn. The faint ftretched out
his hand from his tomb ; and, at that very in-
ftant, the Pacha arrived from Spain, bearing
with him his ftones and chains. The miracle
took place on the evening of the anniverfary
feftival of the faint, in the prefence of many
witneffes. Such a miracle, of fo late a date, and
performed fo publicly, they conüder as proved
by the moll unexceptionable evidence.

So modern a city cannot contain many an-
tiquities of an interefting nature. Yet I copied
l^ere an ancient Kufic infcription, in the prefence
of many fpedators, none of whom fufpeded mcj
as the Egyptians had done, of any intention to
feek out and pilfer their treafures. Thpy were
all very obliging, and efpecially the Schechs,
or learned Arabs, who feemed pleafed that ftran-
gers fhould iliew a defire to acquire their lan-
guage. In this city, as well as in Loheia, I ob-
tained much information from a clafs of Arab
literati, who came much about us. Thefe are
denominated Fakih, and no where through Ara-
bia GO their circumftances appear to correfpond
to their merit.

The city of Beit el Fakih is in a favourable
fituation for trade ; being only half a day's jour-
iiey from the hills in which the coffee grows,
and but a few days journies from the harbours
Qf Loheia, Hodeida, and Mokha, from which

this

IN ARABIA, Ü'tV

this commodity is exported , it naturally be-
comes the moil confiderable mart for it. This
trade brings hither merchants from Egypt, Sy-
ria, Barbary, Perlia, Habbefch, India, and of-
ten from Europe. Here are alfoj as in all the
other great towns ia Arabia, a number of Ba-
nians, all of them natives of Diu, who are al-
lowed the free exercife of their religion. Yet
they dare not bring their women hither, nor
burn their dead : and thefe prohibitions induce
them to return to their native country, alfooii;
as they have accummulated a little fortune.

Beit el Fakih is the relidence of a Dola, whofe
jurifdi6lion extends over a large diiiricl. This
Dola feemed to take little concern about us
and his indifference left us more at liberty than
we had been at Loheia. Emir Farhan, having
underffood that Mr Forikal rambled out through
the neighbourhood by himfelf, thought that he-
might fall into fome mifhap, by expofing himfelf
ip carelefsly, and therefore would not fufFer us to
go out of Loheia, without having one of his fol-
diers to accompany us. This kind oi affiduity
proved trouble fome to us ; as we did not wifli
to have a witnefs to. overhear all our enquiries,
and fpy all our operations. Beiides, we found
the inhabitants of Yemen in fuch a Hate of civi--
lazation, that we could travel among them with

¥oL. L Mm. th&

I

2,74 kiebuhr's travels

the fame fafety as in Europe. The Dola of Be-*,
it el Fakih did us a real favour by negleding uS;,
and fuffering us to travel about the countryj un-
incumbered with attendants^

SECTION

In ARABlAj i^dh

^75

SECTION IX.

EXGÜRSIÖNS THROUGH' THE COUNTRY ] A50ÜX
BEIT EL FAKIH-.

Ceap L

journey to Ghaleßa.

In order that we might avail ourfelves of the
liberty which we enjoyed at Beit el Fakih, Ij.
for my part, purpofed to vifit fome places which
are now ruinous, but were once famous, and
are mentioned by Abalfeda« I hoped that I
might difcover fome infcriptions, tending to ex-
plain what changes the manners and language
of this province had undergone : I accomplifli-
ed, at lead in part, what I deßred.

As I was convinced that I might travel in
fafety through all Tehama, I refolved to go by
Ohalefka, and to perform this expedition in as
iimple a guife as pofiible, and without any ap-
M m 2 pearance

276

KIEBÜHr's TRAVEIS

pearance of fplendour or opulence that miglit
prove a temptation to robbers. I hired an afs
and its owner agreed to follow me as my fer-
vant, on foot. A turban, a great coat wanting
the fleeves, a fhirt, linen drawers, and a pair
of flippers, w^ere all the drefs that I wore. It
being the fafhion of the countrj to wear arnis
in travelling, I carried a fabre, and two piftols
hung by my girdle. A piece of an old carpet
was my faddle, and ferved me likewife for a
feat, a table and various other purpofes. To
cover me at night, I had the linen cloak which
tlie Arabs wrap about their ftioulders, to fhelter
them from the fun and rain. A bucket of wa-
ter, an article of indifpenlible necefiity to a tra-
veller in thefe arid regions, hung by my faddle,
I had for fome time endeavoured to fuit myfelf
to the Arabian manner of living, and now could
fpare many conveniences to which I had been
accuilomed. in Europe, and could content my-
felf wdth bad bread, the only article to be ob^
tained in mod of the inns.

On the 7th of March, I fet out from Beit el
Fakih ; and, before I had travelled a mile, faw
feveral villages ; but, upon all the reft of the
way to Ghalef ka, which is four miles and a
half, I faw not a fingle dwelling, nor any mark
of human induftry, but a few wells. For the
J two laft miles, the way lies through fo fandy

a tradl.

m ARABIA, Oc. ' ÜJf

^ tra<5l, that my guide often loft himfelf ; fuck
are the continual changes which the wind pro-
duces on the fcenery, by demolifhing the hil-
locks, carrying the fand about, and forming o-
thers. We were even obliged to turn feveral
times out of what w^e knew to be the true di--
redion, in order to avoid being buried in fome
•of thofe hillocks which w^ere then forming.
^ Ghalef ka is at the fame diftance from Zehid as
from Beit el Fakih*

Ghalefka was once a famous city ; and the
fea-port town of Zebid was then in an equally
flourifhing condition. That harbour is now
üiled up, fo that no fhip, of however fmall bur-
den, can enter it : Not only has the fea reced-
ed, while the banks of coral have been augmen-
ted, but a quantity of fand has been here ac-
cumulated by the winds, which aciually rifes
into a hill of coniiderable height. The rains
of a mofque are ftili to be feen here, vv^hich was
dedicated to a faint, who, by his prayers, ob-
tained from Heaven an excellent fpring of wa-
ter, for which, the inhabitants believe, that
they ought ftill to be grateful to him. About a
fcore of cottages now hold all the inhabitants
of this once ßourifliing city ; and dates, w^ith
the milk and fleüi of a few fneep, are all the
provifions they have.

The

The fea affords them no fiih, nor any thing
^Ife, but fait ; of which every perfon may have
as much as he pleafes, upon paying a fmall fee
to the Dola of Beit el Fakih's fecretary.

In a burying place near this poor village,' I
found two ftones bearing Kußc infciiptions ; one
of them w^as large, and flood on end ; the other
lay fiat upon a tomb, and was but fmall. The
inhabitants could not comprehend for what rea-
ion I was fo eager to copy the infcriptions from
the larger ftone ; but when I returned next day
to do the fame for that upon the fm aller flone, I
found it to have been carried away in the nighty
I applied to the Hakim ar judge of the village,
snd offered him a trifle if he could procure me
another fight of it* He led me through many
turnings and windings to a poor hutj in w^hich
V7as the tomb of another faint ; and we there
found the fl:one that I was in fearch of ; by his
Eccount of the matter, it had not been hidden by
the inhabitants, but the faint had brought it hi»
ther himfelf. Notwithftanding the faint's care of
it, the Hakim oöered me this ftone with me to
Beit el Fakih, if I would be at the expence of
Bavin^ it conveyed^

Chaf«

ARABIA, ^.Co., 1']%

Chap. IL

Return to Belt, el Fakih by the %uay of Hodelda,^^

T SET out next day from Ghalefka, with my afs
and ^ owner. The road lies, for thp greater
part of it, along the üiore, through a fandy and
"barren country. The only vegetables by whick
it is enlivened, are a few date trees. A number
of coffee-houfes, hov/ever^ and one village occur
here to the traveller. At fome diilance from the
village, are a few houfes fcattered among groves
of date-trees, but which are inhabited only in
the feafon when the dates are gathered. I arriv-
ed the fame evening at Hodeida, which is about
five German miles diftant from Ghalef ka.

The harbour of Hodeida is fome what better
than that of Loheia. Yet large velTals cannot
enter it. The Dola of Hodeida is accountable
only to the Imam. But his jurifdidion is con-
lined to this city. His revenues coniift in part
of the duties upon coffee exported. The man-
iion of the Dola, the cuilom-houfe, and the houf-
es of the principal merchants are Hone buildings.
The reft of the town confifts of huts built in the
ordinary llile. Near the fea, ftands a fmall cita-
del.

NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

äd, which could not prove a very ilrong defenee.
This city has alio its patron faint, Shech Sddik^^
who is honoured with due veneration.

At Hodeidaj I found my friends Von. Havea,
and Cramer, who had come hither to deiiver two
letters of recommendation, from our friends m
Jidda to tli€ Dola, and an eminent merchant in
this place. They had been received, lodg^ and
treated in the kindeft mamer. But I, not being
difpofed to iofe my time in vifits, returned on the
next day, which, was the 9th of March, to Beit
d Fakih._

In this feafon of the year, night is always pre-
ferred for travelling through Tehama. I ihould
not have had it in my power, therefore, to diftin*
guifli fuch obje& as deferved notice, if I had not
chofen to depart from the prevalent cuflom, and
to expofe myfelf to the torrid heat of the day.

On the road, are a number of cofFee -huts, but
TCry few villages. A mile and a half from Hol
deida, there is a w^ell of excellent water, which
is carried to that city for the ufe of the inhabi-
tants ; the water which they have nearer, being
Tery bad. As I approached Beit el Fakih, I paf-
fed through fome paultry villages ; and arrived
at my place of deftination, on the fame day up-
on which I had fet out. The diftance between
Beit el Fakih and Hodeida, is, by my eftimatlon«,
feYen German miles j and this journey I perfor-
, . - . ~ _med,.

IN ARABIA, 281'

med in one day, under the moft fcorching heat
and upon a hired afs.

Chap. III.

Journey to Zebid.

H AVING found the Arabs very civil, and having
met with no difagreeable accident in my firft ex-
curfion, I was impatient to fet out again. I ac"^
cordingly departed for Zebid on the iith of
March, to fee the remains of that famous city,
which was once the capital of Tehama ; and to
invefliigate fome ancient infcriptions which were
faid to be concealed at Tahcete, a fmall town in
that neighbourhood. An Arab who was learned,
but poor, accompanied me in this expedition,
and was glad of the opportunity of viliting an
old friend at Zebid, without expence. I was no
lefs pleafed to have him for the companion of
my journey, as his converfation was very enter-
taining.

After palling by feveral coffee-houfes, and
through fome fmall hamlets, we came to a large
village called El Mahad, Handing in a beautiful
valley which receives the waters that fall from
Mount Rema, In the rainy feafon, thefe waters
form a river v/hich fpreads into feveral branches,

Vol. I. N n ani

nieeuhr's travels

and fertilizes the adjacent lands. A large quan-
tity of indigo grows in this valley. In this neigh-
bourhood, too, there flood anciently a confidera-
ble city, called alfo El Mahad ^ but of it no vef-
tige now remains.

Near Zebid are fome heaps of ftones, which
are faid to be a part of the ruins of another
large and ancient city that was called El Hand,
I arrived early in the morning at Zebid ; hav-
ing travelled in a Ihort time five German miles,
which is the computed diilance betv»reen this
town and Beit el Fakih.

Zebid is fituate near the largeft and mofl fer-
tile valley in all Tehama. It was dry when I
vifited it ; but, in the rainy feafon, a large river
runs through it, and being, like the Nile, conduct-
ed by canals through the neighbouring fields^
communicates to them an high degree of ferti-
lity.

Zebid was once the place of a fovereign's refi-
dence, and the moft commercial city in all Te-
hama. But, fince the harbour of Ghalefka was
choaked up, its trade has been transferred to Beit
el Fakih and Mokha ; and this city now retains
nothing but the ihadow of its former fpiendour.
Viewed from a diftance, it appears to fome ad-
vantage, by means of the mofques and Kubbets,
of which it is full. Several of thofe mofques
were ere€led by different Pachas who refided

here,

m ARABIA, i^C,

283

here, during the fliort period while this part of
Arabia was inthepofleffionof the Ottoman Porte»
But Zebid pays dear for its exterior magni-
ficence ; its inhabitants are impoveriflied by the
numerous clergy belonging to thofe pious foun-
dations, by whom the wealth of this place is al-
moft wholly engroiTed. I was told, as a matter of
certainty, that if the whole revenue of the ter-
ritory be confidered as divided into five parts,
the clergy receive three of thefe, the Imam one
for the taxes, and the inhabitants have only one-
fifth remaining for their maintenance.

The Turks have left here one ufeful monument
of their power ; an aqueduft, which conveyed
water from the hills into the city. But this
work has been fo negleded, that only its ruins
now remain, and the inhabitants are obliged to
content themfelves with water from their draw-
wells ; which is fortunately not bad, and in fuch
plenty as to w^ater many fine gardens that are
to be feen in the neighbourhood of the city.

Abulfeda afcribes eight gates to Zebid ; but
of thefe, only five are now Handing, and the ri-
ver is gradually breaking down a part of them.
The walls of the Old City are demolifhed, and
the very ruins are fold by poor people who ga-
ther out the ft ones, and fell them for building new
N n 2 houfes-

284 niebuhr's travels

houfes. The prefent buildings occupy about
one half of the ancient extent of the city.

Zebid is ftill diilinguifhed for an academy, in
which the youth of Tehama, and of a part of
Yemen, lludy fuch fciences as are cultivated a-
mong the MulTulmans. This is, befides, the fea^
ofaDola, a Mufti, and a Cadi, of the fed of Scha-
fey ; and of two other Cadis of the fed of Tjeid'u
to which the Imam and the greater part of his
fubjeds profefs to belong.

In the inn, I met with the vaineft and mod
foolifhly loquacious man I had yet feen among
the Arabs. He was a Sherriffe, or nobleman of
the firftrank, but, being poor and beggarly, tra-
velled about the country, living at the expence
of the more opulent profelTors of his religion.
Having been in Egypt, Syria, and even Abyfli-
nia, he boafted, that he could fpeak feveral fo-
reign languages, although all that he knew of
thefe, was, a few proverbs. I wiihed to obtain
fome information from him concerning the coun-
tries through which he had travelled ; but he
could tell nothing but the names of a vaft num-
ber of Schiechs, Pachas, and Dolas, by all of
whom he pretended to have been received with
the honours due to a defcendent öf Mahomet.
He difgufted and fickened me with everlafting
babbling about his genealogy and high birth.
He looked with difdain upon the Turkifh Scher -

rips,

IN ARABIA, Uc, 285

rifes, and the Arabian Seids, becaufe they con-
neded themfelves in marriage with ftrange wo-
men. No perfon, in his family, he faid, had e-
ver married a vulgar wench. He gave the name
of Sberriffa, to a poor woman v^ho made coffee
for us, this being the title by which ladies of the
higheft quality are here diftinguifhed ; and ha-
rangued long upon her pure and illuilrious ge-
nealogy. His fon, a boy often years, who ad:-
ed as his fervant, never received another name
from him than Sherriffe Achmet. The father
had hired only one Serir for his fon and himfelf
together : whereas every other traveller who i^
not abfolutely mendicant, hires here a feparate
couch, juil as feparate rooms are occupied by
different travellers in the inns of Europe. With
all thofe airs of greatnefs, he often abufcd his
fon, and called him Koilh ihn Kcdlh^ dog fon of a
dog.

When I had finiflied my refearches at Zebid
we fet out on the 12th of March, and, after a ride
of two German miles, reached Taha:te, wnicii
was once a town of fome magnitude, but has
now dwindled to a fmall village. The road
leads ftill through J¥adi Zebid, the vale or the
bed of the river ; in which the fields had a
beautiful and rich appearance, wherever they
had not been encroached upon and ravaged by
the torrents. Much indigo is raifed here ; I

counted

KIEBÜHR's TRAVELS

286

counted more than fix hundred large veffels, in
which this colouring matter is prepared for fale.

In this village are alfo feveral mofques and
houfes of prayer, reared over the tombs of faints
or opulent perfons. Ibn Haffan is the chief of
the faints. His tomb is always illuminated by
night with lamps ; and one of his defcendarits
keeps a Manfale, or houfe of hofpitable entertain-
ment, in the village. I lodged in a common inn :
but the mailer of the Manfale came to invite me
to his houfe, and, when he found me unwilling
to remove, fent me a good fupper. I had been
told, that the mafters of Manfales accept no mo.
mey ; But he of Tahwte did not refufe a fmall
gratuity.

Finding nothing remarkable in this village?
wefetout upon the 13th of March, for Beit el
Fakih. I faw no houfes by the way except the
populous village of Murra, fituate in the beauti-
ful vale el Mahad, In this village are many
Kuhhets, and a large Manfale, in which thirty or
forty people are daily entertained (cc).

Chap.

>

tN ARABIA,

2S7

Chap. IV.

'Jotirney to Kahhme.

Being now ftill more fatisfied by experieiice
of the eafe and fecurity with which a perfoo
might travel through Yemen ; I immediately
prepared for another excurfion. The approach
of Ramadan^ which was this year to begin on
the 16th of March, gave me fome concern.

I was afraid, that the Muflulmans, who lived
fo near the Holy Cityj, might be ftill more rigid
obfervers of this faft, than their brethren who
were placed at a greater diftance. The Egyp-
tian Arabs, who had been in company with us in
the preceding Ramadan, kept the faft as reli-
gioully, while we were travelling, as they
could have done at home. Through the
whole day they would eat or drink nothing ;
and they were difpleafed to fee us take the fmalL
eft refrefhment. I fhould not have liked to fuf-
fer the fame inconveniences here. Eut I was
not a little furprized to find, that the Arabs of
Yemen were lefs fcrupulous, and, upon a journeyp
continued to take the ufual refrefliments, with-
out mortifying themfelves with abftinence ; but
intending, as they faid, to keep Lent for as many
days next month. But it is probable, that they

would

niebuhr's travels

would not always recoiled: the number of days
very accurately (dd).

After being thus fatisfied, that, although it
was Ramadan, I might ftill eat as ufual, I fet
out upon the 19th, accompanied only by the
owner of the afs upon which I rode, for Kahhme?
where I expelled to find fome remains of anti-
quity in the ruins of the city Lelue. I palTed by
fome villages ; and, nearer the mountains, vil-
lages are indeed more numerous. The moil
confiderable of thofe which I pafTed was el Ach-
fa, famous for the tomb of a faint, named Scbiecb
el Achfa, fon to the holy Achmet ihn Mufa,
whom I have before mentioned as the patron of
Beit el Fakih. I alfo croffed a vale, through
which runs a river which joins the river of Re-
ma. In the rainy feafon, the latter holds its
courfe to the fea, and enters it near Schurenu

I went, immediately after my arrival at Kahh-
me, to fearch for the antiquities of Lelue, But
I found only a large burying place, filled v/itb
pentagonal ftones, each eight inches in diame-
ter, and four or five feet long. When I faw
thofe fiiones, fo uniformly of this regular figure,
I was at firft inclined to think, that they might
have received it from the hand of art. But I
foon perceived a hill in the neighbourhood whol-
ly compofed of pentagonal ftones, where thofe
people had found the feemingly artificial orna-
ments

IN ARABIA, l^C»

nieilts of their burying place. The rocks of
that hill are a pile of vertical columns, of the fi-
gure and thicknefs above mentioned, rifing one
over another, as well as fpreading for fome ex-
tent, in a parallel body, and feemingly joined
by a fort of flight cement. I faw fome other piles
of rocks of the fame fort, in other places through
Arabia. After my return to Europe, I found,
in a mailufcript written by Mr Kcenig, that this
learned Dane had difcovered in Iceland, moun-
tains confining of fimilar pantagonal columns,;
arranged in a vertical pofition, each column
three ells in height, and half an ell thick. Thefe
Hones are called by naturalills, Bafaltes (ee).

After examining the few curiofities which
Kahhme afforded, I returned to Beit el Fakih^
purpofing foon to fet out on fome new excuE-»
fions.

Chap. V.

Journey to Coffee-Mountains,

Düring my abfence, Mr Forllall had wot
been idle upon the hills where the coffee is pro^
duced, whither he had gone to profecute his bota-
nical refearches, His defcription of that part of
YoL. I.' O Ö th^e-

290 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

country had already induced MeiTrs Cramer and
Baurenfeind to follow him : I alfo refolved to
join my comrades, that I might breathe cooler
air, and drink better water. The fpace I had
to travel v/as only half a day's journey ; and,
in the courfe of this, I met with nothing re-
markable.

I foon came within light of the fmall tovm
of Hadie, iituate upon one of the foremoil emi-
nences. The roads are very bad : A caufeway
was indeed formed by the Turks ; but it has
been fuffered to fall away, without receiving
any repairs. My friends, whom I had expect-
ed to find in this town, were in the gardens up-
on the hill. I came up with then), after travel-
ling two hours longer, near BuJgofa, one of thofe
villages whofe inhabitants fubfift upon the pro-
fits which their crops of coifed afford. Neither
afles nor mules can be ufed here : the hills are
to be climbed by narrow and fteep paths : Yet^
in comparifon with the parched plains of Teha-
ma, the fcenery feemed to me charming ; as it
was covered with gardens and plantations of cof-.
fee-trees.

In the neighbourhood of Kahhme, I had feen
only one fmall bafaltic hill ; but here, whole
mountains were compofed chiefly of thofe co-
lumns. Such detached rocks formed grand ob-
jeds in the landfcape, efpecially where cafcades

of

IN ARABIA,

igt

of water v/ere feen to rufh from their fumniits.
The cafcades, in fuch inftances, had the appear^
ance of being fupported by rows of artificial pil-
lars. Thefe bafaltes are of great utility to the
inhabitants : the columns, which are eafily fe-
parated, ferve as fteps where the afcent is molt
difficult ; and as materials for walls to fup-
port the plantations of coffee-trees, upon the
fleep declivities of the mountains.

The tree which affords the coffee is well
known in Europe ; fo that I need not here de-
^:ribe it particularly. The coffee- trees were all
in flower at Bulgofa^ and exhaled an exquifitely
agreeable perfume. They are planted upon ter-
races, in the form of an amphitheatre. Moil
of them are only watered by the rains that fall ;
but fome, indeed, from large refervoirs upon
the heights ; in which fpring water is colleded,
in order to be fprhikled upon the terraces; where
the trees grow fo thick together, that the rays
of the fun can hardly enter among their branch-
es. We were told, that thofe trees, thus arti-
ficially watered, yielded ripe fruit twice in the
year : but the fruit becomes not fully ripe the
fecond time : And the coffee of the fecond crop
is always inferior in quality to that of the firil.

Stones being more common in this part of the
country, than at Tehama, the houfes, as well
®f the villages, as thofe which are fcattered fo-
Oo2 jjur

KIEBUHR^S TRAVEL^

litarily over the hills, are built of this material,
Although not to be compared with the houfes
in Europe, for commodioufnefs or elegance, yet
they have a good appearance ; efpecially fuch of
them as ftand upon the heights, with beautiful
gardens, and trees, arranged in the form of an
amphitheatre, around them.

Even at Bulgofa, we were greatly above the
level of the plain from which we had afcended :
Jet, fcarcely had we climbed half the the afcent
to Kiifmay where the Dola of this diitrid dwells,
upon the loftiell peak of this range of mountains. ,
Enchanting Jandfcapes there rneet the eye upon
all fides. ,

We paffed the night at Bulgofa. Several of
the men of the village came to fee us ; and, af-
ter they retired, we had a vifit from our hoft-
efs, with for^e young' women accompanying her,
who were all very defirpus to fee the Europeans?
They feemed lefs fny than the women in the ci^
ties : their faces were unveiled ; and they talked
freely with us : As the air is frelher and cooler
upon thefe hills, the women have here a finer _
and fairer complexion than in the plain. Mr
Baurenfeind drew a portrait of a young girl who
was going to draw water, and was drelTed in a
fhirt of linen, chequered blue and white. The
top and the middle of the fhirt^ as well as the

low'e?

IN ARABIA, l^C.

lower part of her drawers, were embroidered
with needle-work of different colours.

On the loth of March, we returned down-
wards as far as Hadie ; a place well known to
the Europeans ; who come hither from Beit el
Fakih, to pafs fome time occafionally in this lit-
tie town, where the air is cool, and the water
frelh and pure. It is, however, but ill-buiit, and
has nothing elfe of confequence, except its trade
in coffee, which the inhabitants of the hills bring
down upon certain days in the week. After the
duties are paid to the Dola, the coffee is packed
up and conveyed upon camels, either to Beit el
Fakih or diredly to Hodeida. '

We enjoyed a Angular and beautiful profpeö
from the houfe of the Sub-Dola at Hadie, and
returned in the evening to Beit el Fakih, by the
fame way by which we had gone, in our joprney
up the mountains.

SECTION

niebuhr's TRäVELS^

SECTION X,

JOURNEY THROUGH THE MOUNTAINOUS PART
OF YEMENo

Chap L

f)eparture from Beti el FaMh.

W E met with lefs difficulty in the profecntion
©f ourrefearches at Beit el Fakih, than any where
eife through Yemen. The inhabitants of that
city were no ßrangers to European manners, and
Jcnew that we could not, like them, reft conftant-
ly ill one place, They wert therefore nowife
furprized at our excurfions, but were fully fatisfi-
ed when we told them^ that the exercife was ne-
ceffary for our health.

Oar

IN ARABIA, i^C,

^9S

Our Friends, whom Mr Forikal and I confuked
upon the fubjedofour expeditions, could not com-
prehend why we chofe to travelabout in the feafoii
when the heats were moil intenfe; while they who
were accuftomed to the climate, never went with-
out doors when they could avoid it. Believing^
that we had come into Arabia, only to find an
opportunity of a palTage to India, they advifed
us to take no fatigue, but to attend to our health.
At length, when they faw us perfifh in negleding
their advice, and obfe-rved, that we lived at a
coniiderabie expence, without feeking to gain
by trade ; they began to imagine, that v.^e had
the art of making gold, and that Mr ForfKal, in
his excurfions upon the mountains, was feeking
plants which might be neceflary in this great
work. My aftronomical obfervations, agaiii^
acquired me the reputation of a magician.

Happily for us, thefe üirewd conjectures were
confined to the fmall circle of our acquaintance^
The Dola feemed to have abfolutely forgotten us?
and had as yet made no enquiry concerning our
purpofej in vifiting his dominion. I v/as defirous,
therefore, to avail myfeif of this fliort period of
liberL3', and to penetrate into the interior parts
of Yemen, after rambling through the environs
of Beit el Fakih, in Tehama. The fouthern part
of the mountains I expecied to fee, in a journey
which we purpofed to make from Mokha to Sa^

na ;

296 NIEBÜHr'S TRA'V'jEt^

na ; at prefent, therefore, I determined to vifif
Udden and Ta^es, But I found that the fituation-
of thefe towns had been reprefented to me, as
more northern than it really was.

Through all Tehama, travelling is equally
fafe by night a^ by day. Still, however, I fear-
ed that it might be dangerous to travel alone in
a mountainous country, in folitary roads, where
difagreeable accidents might befal one by day
not lefs than by night. Belides, I could not
fpeak the language of the Highlanders, w^iich
differs coniiderably from that of the inhabitants
of the plain. For all thefe reafons, I was indu-
ced to beg Mr Forfkalj who had learned fome-
thing of the language of the Highlands, upon the
eolFee-mountains, to accompany mein my intend-
ed expedition. My friend agreed, in the hope
of finding new matter for his botanical refearch-
es.

The preparations for our journey were ealiJy
made. We hired two alTes, and the owner at-
tended us on foot, as our guide, our fervant, and
öccalionally our interpreter. We had already
large beards in the Arab fafliion ; and thefe^
with our long robes, gave us a very orient ap-
pearance. To difguife ourfelves ftill more, each
of us alTumed an Arabic name ; and, under thefe
pretenlions, our real condition w^as fo perfedly
concealed, that even the owner of afles thought

tl3

SN ARABIA, Wc,

297

iis Chriftians of the Ealt ; and had no fufpicion
that we were Europeans. In this garb, and at''
tended hy the afs- hirer, we fet out on the 26th
©f Marchj from Beit el Fakih,
a a

Chap. IL

Route by Udden:

"We pafled through feveral villages in croffing
the plain, and, after a journey of five German
miles and a half, reached Roho^ where is a week-
ly Suk or market. Here we lay the firil night«

Next day,, after advancing a mile farther, we
entered upon the mountains. Near the firft vil-
lage, we obferved a running ftream, the firft wt
faw in Arabia. Till it enters Tehama, this river
is called Wadi Zehid, Its channel is very broad ^
but as no rain had for a long time fallen, the
{tream covered the breadth of twenty, or four
and twenty feet. In this place it runs with a
confiderable current ; but in Tehama it fpreads
into a fhallow lake, and is lofl among the fands.

The fame day, we paßed near Mount SuUam^
where, from the account given by an Arab who
lived in the country, I had been led to expctl
that I ßiould find hieroglyphics or infcriptions.

Vol, IV F p cut

298

niebuhr's travels

cut upon the rock. But, I found only fome fi«
gures which had been impreffed at an idle hour
by fome Ihepherd, and were as coarfely executed
as thofe upon Mount Sinai, ^V^^lay at Mcichfa^

The road by which we trave} . I i* not much
frequented by travellers. The ways are very
bad and unfafe, and fcarce a houfe appears upon
any hand. Within thefe few years, however,
they have become lefs dangerous than they were
before. The lord of Udden has placed fome fol-
diers with a Sub-Dola, at Machfa, who is re-
fponiible for the thefts or robberies that happen
in his diftrid. This regulation of the police has
difperfed the robbers,

Machfa is one of the villages in which weekly
fairs are held. The houfes are ftill more wretch-
ed here than in Tehama. They have no walls,
and confift merely of a few poles laid together*
and covered with reeds. Wc could fcarcely
lodge in one of thofe huts; fo fmall were they, that
a perfon could not ftand ftraight in the middle ;
and two perfons lying together upon the floor,
occupied the whole area of the houfe. It would
not have held a fingle Serir. The inhabitants
lit and fleep upon the bare ground. The air
being colder in this part of the country, than in
Tehama ; the people here put on a bag upon their
bodies when they go to fleep, and are warmed
by their natural perfpiration. In none of the

inns^

IN ARABIA, ISc.

2Q9

inns, could we find any other fort of food but
hoarfe Durra bread, made of millet with camel's
milk ; but the water is every where delicious.

On the 28th of March, we paiTed, by winding
roads, through a diftrid in which the lands be-
gan to appear more fertile and better cultivated.
The houfes are here much more commodious,
being built of ftone, and flat-roofed. Yet, the
houfes of the peafants are, here too, without walls,
unlefs we give the name to dry ftones, piled one
upon another, and having no mortar to cement
them. The roofs are covered with earth.

We pafled through a village in which was a
fair ; a circumftance which made us hallen for-
ward, as we were defirous to avoid the crowd.
Near this place, at the foot of a high hill, w^e
obferved a fort of gliftering, micaceous fand.
The people of the country have been led, from
the appearance of this fand, to fancy that the hill
affords gold. On the heights, we faw the tombs
of feveral faints too ; and near one of thofe tombs
a wooden trough, into which fome devout per-
fons are conllantly pouring water for the ufe of
the cattle which pafs. We lay in a coffee- hut,
near a village which is inhabited only for one
day in the week, namely the market-day ; fo
that we found no inhabitant there, when we'paf-
fed, except our landlord.

P p 3 The

300 NIEBÜHR'S TRAVELS

The inhabitants of thofe parts had been long
looking impatiently for rain. In order that they
might make the moft of it, when it fhould fall^
the peafants had raifed dykes along the heights, to
dired the courfe of the waters upon their fields^
The fields lay favourably for receiving it, being
formed into terraces, and thefe fupported by
walls, with ditches to preferve what water may
be necelFary to fupport vegetation. If this prac-
tice merit approbation, yet we cannot avoid
condemning the anlkilful expedient which thofe
Highlanders employ for felling trees : they fet
fire to the root, and keep it burning till the tree
fall of itfelfi

Next day, we came to a fmall river which
runs into the Zebid, and croifed alfo feveral ri-
vulets, which feem to be numerous in this part
of the country. Here, for the firfl time fince
our departure from Beit el Fakih, we faw plan-
tations of coffee-trees, along the fides of the road.
We now drew nearer to the river Zebid, of
"which a branch at this time was dry, and having
its channel filled with reeds growing to the height
of twenty feet, ferved as a line of road, which
was agreeably lhaded by the reeds. In the eve-
ning we arrived at Udden.

The town of Udden is fmall and unproteded.
It contains three hundred houfes, all of ftone.
The Imam keeps no Dola here. An hereditary

Schiechj

IN ARABIA, Uc,

30i

Sdiiech, who is a vaflal of the Imanvs, is the go-
vernor. The Schiech refides in a palace, Hand-
ing upon a high hili without thp city.

Except the immediate neighbourhood of Ud-
den, the whole tracl of country through which
we travelled in this excurhon is thinly peopled.
But the territory of the town is fo much the
more populous, on account of the abundant pro-
duce of its coffee- trees, which is efteemed theve^
4'7 bed co^ee in all Arabia.

Chap. IIL

From Udden to Dsjohia,

Leaving Udden on the 30th of March, we pro-
ceeded through a country which we found every
where more populous. Near avillage we faw a
plain planted with very indifferent fugar-canes.

Half the way lay over a very fteep Mountain ;
and had been formerly paved ; but had now
been long left without repairs. On this moun-
tain, I faw a new inftance of the care with which
the Arabians provide for the accommodation of
travellers. Here, for the iirft time, we found a
Madgil, or refervoir of excellent frefh-v/ater for
the ufe of paflengers. Such refervoirs are of ma-

302 niebuhr's travels

foil- work, of a conical figure, and befide a refer-
voir, a vafe always ftands for drawing the water.
The traveller will do well, however, to carry
with him a cup of his own ; and ftill better, if,
with the cup, he have alfo a bucket. Through
all the fertile parts of Yemen, we found many of
thofe Madgils^ by the fides of the highways.

As ftorms are pretty frequent among thefe
mountains, fome fmall vaulted houfes have been
built upon that over which we palTed, to flielter
travellers when furprized by any fudden blaft.

The thermometer which we had with us,
compared with that which Mr Baurenfeind at
the fame time ufed in Beit el Fakih, fhewed the
great difference between the temperature of the
air upon the hills, and that of the plain. The
drefs of the inhabitants affords the fame indica^
ticn, in a Ampler and more natural manner :
¥/hile the inhabitants of Tehama went almoft
naked, thofe of the mountains wore warm fheep-
fkins.

As we advanced on our journey, we faw feve-
ral villages fituate in a cultivated trad. The
fides of the hills were covered with rye, and had
an agreeable afped:. This part of the country,
although in other refpeds very fertile, produces
no coffee.

The Arabs of Yemen, and efpecially the High«
landers, often flop fi:rangersj to aflc whence they

come,

IN AkÄBIAj WCi

3^3

and whether they are going. Thefe queftions
are fuggefted merely by curiofity ; and it would
be indifcreet therefore to refufe to anfwer. We
told them commonly, that we came from Efcbam^
the north y which led them to imagine, that we
were Turks from Syria. When af^ed whether
we were Turks, we replied that we were Najfa^
ra ; and they then fuppofed us Greeks or Arme-
nians. We concealed our country, left we
fhould have expofed ourfelves ftill more to the
impertinence of their curiofity. The miftrefs of
the coffeehoufe fuppofed us to be Turkifh cler-'
gymgn, and recommended herfelf to our prayers.
At Bsjohla a man faluted me by the name of
Hadsji Achmed ; taking me for an old acquain-
tance.

Through the whole of this journey, w^e were
not once teized for palTports, or required to pajr
duties of any fort^ nor fubjeded to any of thofö
difficulties, which, even in Europe, are fo gener-
ally^troublefome to travellers. Although it was in
Ramadan, we ftill found our ordinary food, even
in the moft folitary cofFee-houfes ; and, in the
towns, gave no offence, when we purchafed
thofe articles which we preferred, in open day.

The town of Dsjobla is the capital of a diC
trid, and the feat of a Dola. It ftands upon the
brink of a fteep precipice, and feems to coniain
about fix hundred houfes, of a confiderable height

and'

3^4

NIEBUHR^S TRAVEL^

and a good appearance. Its ftreets are paved ;
a cafe uncommon in Arabia. The Jews dwell
here, and through all Yemen, in a feparate quar-
ter, without the city.

This place has been celebrated for ages ; and
yet I could difcover no remarkable infcription
about it. I was ftiewn the ruins of fome mof-
ques ; but thefe did not appear to me very an-
cient. The town has neither a caftle, nor walls.
At fome diftance is a place inclofed with v»^alls,
where a Turkifh Pacha has been interred : and
this proves that the conquefts of the Ottoman
Porte have been extended even over thefe moun-
tanous regions.

Chap. IV.

^oute from Dsjobla by Ties to Has.

On the 31ft of March, we continued our jour=.
ney, by winding paths^, over a trad; of country
diverfified by many inequalities of furface. We
lay in a v^ry large Sim/era^ (the Arabic name
for Kan or Karavanferai,) fituate on the fide of
a lofty hill.

From, this Kan we took a guide, to conduct
ns over a contiguous mountain^ which was much

higher

IN ARABIA,

fligber, and on which, we had been told, that
we fhould fee an old Arabic caille. On the
fummit of this mountain we accordingly found
the ruins of a confiderable building of hewn
ftone, the walls of which were flanked with
towers. Here are ftill two refervoirs, of folid
mafon-work. The whole ftru61ure appears to
be of great antiquity : the Arabs afcribe it to
one AJfune jfcehheli. The word Jcehheli figni-
fies an unlettered perfon ; and by this appella-
tion the Arabs diftinguifh their own Pagan an-
ceftors from other idolaters, whom they call
Kafr, or infidels. I found no infcription about
this caftle. From this eminence, a noble prof-
pedl openSj of towns and villages fpreading over
the countryj to a conßderable diftance.

From the Sim/era, where we had flept, we pro-
ceeded down the hiliby the highway, which paff-
es between Mokha and Sana, This road is paved,
and not at all incommodious to the traveller,
although it winds around thefteep declivity of a
hill. We then croffed a pretty large plain, and
paffed near by a great number of villages, coffee-
huts and Madsjils,

We lay in one of the huts, which wasfo ill-pro-
vided in vidluals, that we could procure nothing
for fupper,buta fmall portion of bad bread. The
landlord had even difficulty in gathering fome fo-
rage to feed our affes. Early next day, we came

Vol. L Q q withi

306 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS

within fight of the citadel of Toes, but it Was
noon before we reached or faw the city.

Not wifiiing to be known, and intending to
fee Toes again on our journey to Sana, we did
not enter the city, but continued our progrefs to-
wrads Tehama. We foon left the great road
from Mokha, and turning weilward, travelled a-
long ilony and irregular paths^ without feeing a-
)iy thing remarkable.

Next day, the third of April, we continued
cur journey through a thinly inhabited and un-
fertile region. V\^e were furprifed at the quan-»
titles of ilones which lay over the arable lands^
Some of the inhabitants think them necelTary, to
prevent the lands from being parched by the fun,»
but they rather mark negligence in the hufband-
liien : And, indeed, to fuch a degree is every ex-
ertion of induftry that might contribute to fur-
iiifh the necelTaries of life^ relaxed here, that we
fhould fcarcely have found food in this diftri(fl,
if we had not taken the precaution to bring with
us eggs and bread*

We then croifed a plain covered with date-
trees ; but foon after, regaining the mountains,
entered the territory of Ihn AklaUy where th^
finds, though lefs ftony, appeared to be equally
ill-cqltivated. The terrace walls were general-
ly in a burfting, broken condition. This defola-
tion is the confequeQ.ce of a war between the I-

IN AH AB I A, i^C.

mam of Sana, and the independent Schiech of the
family of Aklan, to whom this diftrid: appertains«
But, in the iflue of the war, the Schiech was o-
bliged to acknowledge the fovereign authori-
ty of the In^am^ and now no longer maintains
troops.

Proceeding on our way to Tehama, we few fe-
veral villages, and croffed fome fmall rivers. We
pafled the night in a detached coffee-hut : and
even the mafier of it left us by night, and retir-
ed to a neighbouring village. When alone, we
could not help congratulating one another, oa
being thus far returned in fafety from a journey
among thofe Arabian mountains, which Vv^ould
not have been without danger,, even in the beft
regulated flates in Europe,

On the 4th of April, we travelled along bad
roads, among hills, and croffed feveral times over
the Wadi Suradsji, a confiderably large and ra-
pid river, even at that time, although no rain had
fallen for ^ long while. We faw no village nea^-^
but feveral coffee-huts.

In this defart traäi, upon the confines of the
Tehama, Mr Forfkal was much rejoiced to dif-
cover the tree which affords the balm of Mecca,
The plant which he found was pretty large, arid
in flower. Here was nothing to hinder my friend
from examining, and making'a defcription of it^
This tree grows in many places through Yemen*
05 2 Bu

^0%. niebuhr's travels

But the inhabitants, who call it u!^bu Scham, the
fweet fniqlling tree, know no other ufe for it
but to perfume their apartments, by burning the
wood. Many branches of the fpecimen which
Vv^e found, had been torn off for this purpofe.

Continuing our journey, we palTed through
feveral fmall rivers, which appeared all to empty
themfelves into one large river. To the fouth^
we had a view of a large chain of mountains ;
but the only habitations that we faw in this hil-
ly region, were a few inns. We came at length
to a large village, containing many Kuhbets, and
at no great diftance from ifej, where v/e arrived
this evening.

The city of Hws, twelve miles diilant from
Tees, and fituate in the Tehama, is fmall and ill-
built. However, it is the capital of the diftrid^
and the feat of a Dola, who occupies a fmali
fortrefs. A confic^erable quantity of earthen-
ware is manufactured here, efpecially coarfe drink-
ing cups. This diilrid is but of narrow extent^
being bounded on one fide by Zebid, and on the
other, by the territories of the Schiech of Ibn
Aldan.

Chab.,

SN ARABIA, l^C.

3®9

Chap. V.

Return to Beit el Fakih

We left Hoes on the 5th of April, and, after
pafling feveral villages and cofFee-huts, arrive4
on the fame evening at Zebid. We paffed with-
out wetting our feet, over the river Suradsji^
which we had lately feen fo large among the
hills. But as we proceeded through the beauti-
ful and cultivated plains which it watered, we
perceived both the caufe of its diminution, ^nd
the effeds which it produced.

Our way from Zebid to Beit el Fakih was the
fame that I have already defcribed. We arrived
at the latter city on the 6th of April.

Upon leaving the mountains, we felt the heat
cxcefiive. We halted to reft ourfelves at an inn
in a village between Hoes and Zebid. Ther^
we were refrefhed by an agreeable breeze, al-
though all was calm and torrid without, for the
walls were built ofloofe ftones, the many chinks,
among which, naturally admitted a current of
air. We found this coolnefs a great refrefhment
amidft the burning heat which pa*evailed all a-
round. I was fo imprudent as to fit down on
the ground, without wrapping myfelf in my large

clgaks

310 NipBUHR's TRAVJEMS

cloak,and being faint, from the heat and the fatigue^
of my journey, I feil afleep. My imprudence
coft me dear ; I was in a violent fever before we
reached Zebid, which continuing after my re-
turn to Beit el Fakih, rendered me unable to take
any fatigue.

On our arrival in this city, upoo the 6th of
April, we found Mr Von Haven likewife indif-
pofed. He had been attacked with a fcurvy, and
was weary of the mode of life to which we wer^
here confined. We had long wanted wine and
brandy ^ we were diffuaded from coffee, as being,
of a heating quality. Kifcher, although eileem-
ed wholefome, is but an infipid drink; and
through all Tehama^ the water is very bad. Our
cook could prepare us no fach iimple difhes of
food as thofe ufed by the Arabs, a nation diftin-
guiihed fjr temperance. Upon this account,
w^e daily ate'animal food, although our friends,
who knew the climate better, had advifed us to
abfiain from it. Our perfifting in this, doubtlefs^
greatly injured our health, and was, in a particu-
lar manner hurtful to Mr Von Haven, who, ex-
cept to lit down at table, never rofe from his fo-
pha.

The firft day of Bairam happened this year to

be the 14th of April. On this day the Dola

proceeded out of the city with a multitude of at-

tcndantfj.

IN ARABIA^ l^C, qii

tendants, to perform prayers in a large inclofecl
fquare area, in the open air. This feftival lafts
three days, during which the Arabs indulge in
feftive amufements, and begin no piece of work^
nor enter upon any journey.

On the 17th of April, we faw an inflance at
Beit el Fakih, of the coolnefs of temper, and
firmnefs of mind, by which the Arab charader
is diftinguiihed. The fouthern end of a houf^
caught fire ; and, as the wind blew ftrong from
the fouth, a great part of the city was foon burnt
down. The inhabitants, however, retained their
ufual tranquillity, No cries nor complaints were
heard in the ftreets^ and when addrelTed with ex-
preffionsofcondolence,upon their misfortune, they
w^ould caimy reply ; " It is the will of God,''
We occupied a houfe with ftone walls, in that
part of the town which was fpared by the
flames ; we went upon the roof, and faw the
roofs of the other houfes crowded with people,
who were beholding the conflagration with the
utmoft indiflerence. A poor fcholar, who ufed
often to viflt us, came, after removing his eifed:^
to a place of fecurity, to fee us, and^ with an air
of indiflerence, marked the inftant when the
flames reached his own houfe. When fuch an
accident happens, indeed, an Arab does not lofe
much ; as the fire approaches, he removes his

goods,

31^ Nieeuhr's travels

goods, and takes refuge, either in a different
quarter of the city, or in the open country. He
thus lofes nothing but his paltry hut, which is
rebuilt eafily, and at a fmall expence.

SECTION

IN ARABIA, UC6

3^3

SECTION XL

JOURNEY FROM BEIT EL FAKIH TO MOKHA*

Chap L

Route to Mokhd^

A SSO ON as Mr Von Haven and I were faffi=
clently recovered to bear the fatigues of travellings
it was refolved, that our whole party Ihould
leave Beit el Fakih* We fet out, therefore, on
the 2oth of April, and took the road to Zebid?
where I had already been*

In Tehama, it has been obferved, people ge-
nerally travel by night, rather than in the day^
But if we had regulated our joUrnies in this
manner, Mr Forfkal could not have continued
to examine and colled plants, nor could I have
furveyed the face of the country. He and

Vol. L R r theref ores'

314 niebuhr's travels

therefore, refolved to proceed forward by day^
taking the owner of our alTes to attend us, and to
lea\"e the reß: of our party, with the fervants and
the baggage, to come up by rhghc.

In confeqiience of this arrangement, we fet out
alone next morning, and paßed through the
plains contiguous to the river 7.ebid, and by th^
canals which are fupplied from it. This beauti-
ful tracl of country is about two miles in breadth,
I'he peafants were bufy cultivating the fields,
and railing earthen dykes about them, to retain
the w^ater for a certain time, after which it would
be conveyed into other fields, to water and ferti-
lize them in like manner. From thefe fields, to
Mokha, hardly any villages are to be feen. I'he
v^hole intervening country is dry, fandy, ani
covered with that coarfe fpecies of grafs witli
v^hich the houfes are thatched here. On thefe
fandy plains, the heat is exceilive : We were o-
vexjoyed whenever we could fhelter ourfelves for
a little, in any paltry coffee-hut..

On the fecond and third days of our journey^
we fäw nothing hut coffee-huts, till v/e, at lad,
arrived in the large village of Maufihid, We
were there alarmed v/ith an account of a ikir-
niiilninc? war betv/een two famjiies, in which a
man bad been killed on the day preceding. But
they allured us, that fuch private quarrels never
interrupt the public tranquillity. When an A-

rab

IN ARABIA, UcJ 315

rdh happens to be killed, his fcimily may com.,
promiie with the murderer for a fum of money?
or may demand of the magiftrate to put him to
death, or, if unwilling to receive fatisfa^Lion in
either of this ways, may declare a refolution cf
taking vengeance themfelves upon the perfon of
the affailins, or upon his relations. A peafant cf
Maulchid had been flain fome years before, by
a man belonging to another village ; and the fa-
mily of the deceafed had determined to intlid
perfonal vengeance. Unfortunately, the man
who had been nevvly Hain in the contell was of
the fame family with him w^hofe death had giv-
en rife to it, fo that there w^ere now tvvo deaths
to revenge in a fet combat. Next day \\t met
in. a coiFee-hut, a maa belonging to the viclori-
ous party, w^ho was armed with a large club, and
told us, that he was eager to fight, as it was an
aPfair of honour. The only thing that he re-
gretted, was, that his family was to fuffer for the
death of tv.'o perfons in whofe life they had no,
fort of intereil. f ff).

In that fame village, a Sub-Dola rendes, with
a few foldiers from the troops, of the Dola of
Hoes. Here, as at Zebid, a tax was demanded
for each cf our camels, from v. hicii I prefume,
that thefe duties are to be paid upon entering
the territöri^ under the jurifdiclion of each fe-
parate Dcia, By our agreement with thecame!-

3x6 niibuhr's travels

driver, he was obliged to difcharge all demands
of this nature. But he contrived to fhift this
payment, by entering into a fecret underftanding
with the officers who were to receive it. They
told us, that we mull either pay it ourfelves, or
fufFer them to open and infped our baggage.
However, on our threatening to complain to the
judge of the place, they deßfted from their in-
folent pretenfions. Thus the eftablifhment of
cuftoms, and cuftom-houfe officers, is every where
a fource of endlefs villanies and vexations.

We paffed through two other villages, and fe-
veral more coffee-huts. We faw, near the road,
a falt-w^ork, from which fait is carried to the
mountains, upon camels. The whole of this way
is over fands, ^ •

Chap. IL .

Arrival at Mokhsi,

After a difagreeable enough journey from Beit
el Fakih, we entered this city, on the 23d of A-
pril. All who travel by land to Mokha, are o-
bliged to enter by the fame gate ; and Europeans
are under the humiliating neceffity of alighting
from their affes, and proceeding to their lodgings

IN ARABIA, Wc.

3^7

•n foot. We therefore alighted, while our bag-
gage was infpeded. Thofe who examined that,
afked neither ©ur names nor our paflports, but
direded us to a Kan, where Turks lodge, and
where, as they fuppofed, we might poiTibly find
fome of our countrymen.

At the time of our arrival, there was an Eng-
lilh merchant from Bombay, in the city. We
were unwilling to addrefs ourfeives to him, led
he might think us vagrants of fufpicious charac-
ter. Befides, we had letters of recommendation
from our friends at Jidda, Loheia, and Beit el
Fakih, to the Dola, to the Engliih interpreter, a
Banian in great credit, and to a merchant of the
city, whofe name was Seid Salek. Having ob-
feved, that the Muffulmans treated thofe Pagans
from India, commonly in a very contemptuous
manner, we were in no hafte to begin an acquain-
tance with the Banian, whom we found after-
wards to be a very worthy man. We were al-
ready acquainted with Seid Salek' s fon Ifmaei,
who had been our companion in the pafiage from
Jidda to Loheia, and had made advances to ob-
tain our friendfhip. This Ifmael, beßdes, had
early prepoffelTed us in his favour, by fpealdng
Dutch tolerably well. We unluckily, there^
fore, addrelTed ourfeives to him in preference to
every other perfon.

Theft

31^ ' NIEBÜHR.'S TP.AVELa

Tlieie two, the father and fon, were-accuftom-.
ed to attach themfelves to ftrangers with dif-
honefc views ; and the fon had iludied fome of
the languages ef Europe, in order that he might
be the better able to accomplifh his fcnavifli pur-
pofes. They had enticed a Dutch veflel from
Batavia to Mokha, the mafcer of which falling
without refource, into their hands, was cruelly
duped and plundered. By their intrigues, they
had kept every other merchant at a diftance ,
fo that,- vvith refped to the fale of the cargo, he
was abfolutely at their mercy. They had hop*,
ei to make their gain of us, in the fame man-
ner ; and, when they faw their hopes of this
friiilrated, laboured, out of fpite, to do us every
ill office in their power.

We paid our firil vifit to Ifmael, He receiv-
ed us feemingly with great kindnefs, treated us
with punch, and invited a renegado from India^
who was fettled, as a merchant, at Mokha, to
keep us company. This renegado v/as a deep
drinker, and endeavoured, but without faccefs?
to make us drunk. Ifmael advifed us to refume
our European drefs, and not to difcover our
knowledge of Arabic, left we üiould be taken
for renegadoes. He endeavoured to diiTuade us
from our intended journey to Sana ; telling us^
that thofe highlanders were a favage, inhofpi,
tMbh race, and the Imam treated all ilrangers

IK AP.ABIA, b^C.

Vvho had the misfortune not to be Mufulmans,
in the moil abufive manner. He was ab'b care-
ful to prepoiTefs us againft the people of Mokha,
who, by his account^ entertained inveterate ha-
tred againfl: Europeans ; but encouraged us, bv
offering the powerful prote6Lion of his father,
to ward off every danger or mortification, that
we might have to fear. In fliort, his whole
converfation was of fuch a nature, that I could
not help perceiving from it, that travellers muff
be grofsly impofed upon, whenever they trud
credulouily to the relations they receive from,
the inhabitants of the country through which
they travel. Had we not known Arabic, we
might have returned into Europe with very
falfe impreilions of every thing in Arabia.

The only piece of fervice that this man did
us, was, in immediately hiring for us a houie
that vvas large enough to lodge us all.

Chap. III.

^ . Difagreeahle incidents at Mehla.

-i^ioM what happened tons fird, after our ar^
rival in this city, v/e found reafon to fufpcc^
that Ifmael had fecretly inftigated the under-
ofHcerG of the culloms to harrafs and opprefs us,

in

3^0 niebühr's travels

in order that we might thus be forced to thröW
ourfelves into a blind and implicit dependence
upon him. Our baggage was carried ftraight
to the cuftom-houfe, where was the Dola in
perfon. We begged, that thofe articles, which
we needed for immediate ufe, might firft be in-
fpedled : but the officers would begin with ex-
amining our chefts of natural curiofities, which
we had fent by fea from Loheya, and which had
been kept here unopened, ever fince the arrival
of the veffel by which they had been brought.
In one of the chefts v/ere fifhes from the Arabic
gulph, preferved in fpirit of wine, and inclofed
in a fmall barrel. We begged the officers of
the cuftoms not to open the barrel ; for that the
iidies fmelled difagreeably. They, however,
not only opened it, but fearched it with a point-
ed inftrument of iron, and at length emptied it
entirely of the contents. The Arabs, who have
a violent averfion to ftrong liquors, were much
prepoffelTed againft us, when they felt the fmell
of the fpirituous liquor ; and were no lefs dif-
pleafed to find the fcetor of the dead fifhes fpread
through the whole cuftom-houfe.

We infilled that they fiiould, at leafi, let us
have our beds. But, without liftening to our re-,
queft, they continued to tofs over and examine
our chefts, which contained fpecimens of ftiells,
at the rifk of breaking them. The Arabs could

not

IN ARABIA, bV,

/ 321

not comprehend, how a man of fenfe could col-
ie6l füch trifles, without fome intereiled views-
and they accordingly accufed us of intending to
abufe the Dola, by producing only articles of
trifling value, to amufe his people, while we con-
cealed our more precious eiFecls.

At laß:, appeared a veifel in which Mr Forikal
had preferved fome ferpents in fpirit of wine.
At light of this, the Arabs were terrified. A
perfon, who was fervant to the Dola, obferved,
that thofe Franks had come hither to poifon the
Mufulmans, and that it was in order to their
fuccefs in this, that one of them pretended to
be a phyfician. The Dola, who was a mild
old man, and till now did not feem to have con-
ceiyed any prejudice agaioft us,, became fiidden-
iy in a pafiion when this idea was fuggeiled, and
fwore, by God, that we fnouki not remain a
lingle night in the city. Tl^ie reader will readi-
ly conceive, how the infolence of the people of
the cufloin-houle, and of the attending mob,
would naturally rife upon this. The cuilom-
houfe .was abruptly fhut, and we couid obtaui
none our goods from it.

While we were in the cuftorn-houfe, a fer-
vant came to tell us, that our books and other
hings had been all thrown oat of the windows
of the houfe which we had hired, and the door
Vol. I. . Sf ' iliii?

322

niebuhr's travels

fliut againfl us. We went to fee what might
be the reafon of that outrage, but could find
neither Ifmael nor his father. One of the citi-
zens, who was a friend of Ifmael's, attacked us
with abulive language. No perfön would afford
us lodgings ; but every one looked upon us as
V igrants who would inftantly be driven out of
the city in difgrace. At length, one of the citi-
zens exprelTed himfelf willing to receive us into
his houfe, if he were fure, that government
would not puniÜi him for it. We led him to
the Cadi, who alTured him, that he Ihould rilk
nothing by lodging us. In Turkey, the Cadies
are reputed very corrupt and felfifh : but in
Yemen, we found them perfons of great worth
and integrity, earneft to do prompt and candid
juftice. The Englifh m.erchant whom I men-
tioned above was Mr Francis Scott, He had
heard of our difficulties and perplexity ; and,
although we had not yet vifited him, gave us an
invitation to dinner^ which v/e accepted with
the greateft pleafure. He exprefied a warm de-
iire to ferve us ; and we now perceived, how
foolifirily we had adled in not applying, at firft^
to him and his Banian interpreter. However^
we dürft not break off abruptly, with Ifmael
and his father.

When we could not obtain any of our things
from the cuitpm-houfe, Ifmael advifed us to of-
fer

IN ARABIA, ^r.

3^3

fer the Dola a prefent of fifty ducats ; and hint-
ed that he fhould be the bearer of the prefent,
for that the Dola would not condefcend to fpeak
with Chriftians. We had no intention of mak-
ing fo large a prefent, ftill lefs of intruftirig him
with it. But, after various reflexions, we at
lafl: refolved to facrifice thofe fifty ducats upon
the occafion ; and it was agreed, that I fiiould
wait upon the Dola w^ith this prefent, next day.
On my way, however, I learned, that the Dola
having been exercifing his troops, had received
a wound in the foot. Upon receiving this in-
formation, I returned home ; hoping that our
,phyfician would be fent for, and that we might
thus avoid the expence of the prefent.

But, Mr Cramer was not called by the
Dola, and our effeds ftill remained at the cuf-
tom-houfe, we underftood, that a confiderable
prefent was expected from us. Mr Forlkal had
hitherto been always refufed admiflion by the
fervants of t\m Dola, upon pretence, that their
mafler would not treat with us otherwife, than
through the medium of Ifmael and his father ;
yet, he now undertook to make a new attempt
to obtain an audience. When he had explained
the purpofe of his vifit, he was admitted, and fo
gracioufly received, that the Dola kindly chid
him for not applying diredlly to himfelf at the
firft. Next day, he, irr his turn, fent us a pre-
S f 2 k nt-

niebuhr's travels

fent of four lambs, and two fmall bags of rice ;
and at the fame time gave orders, that our efFeds
fliould be delivered to us,, without being more-
particularly examined.

Crap. 1¥.

Qur ßay at Mokha continued aud the death of Mr Vö,%
Haven,

The Dola, when he received his wound, had
been advifed by the principal perfons about
him, to fend for the European phyfician. But
he was afraid, that Mr Cramer might, in re-
venge for the ill treatment which we had fufFer-
ed, adminifter to him improper medicines, or
might apply heating drugs, which the Arabs
think very dangerous. But the Cadi reprefent-
ed to him, that no perfon had yet complained of
us ; and that it M^as nowife Itrange, that a phy-
lician fhould have dead ferpents in his polTeßion,
thefe being ufed as ingredients in fome medical
compofitions. The Europeans, he farther told
him, ought not to be defpifed or flighted for col-
leäiing iheils or infedis of v;hich the Arabs- knew^
not the ufe.

Thefe reprefentations, and the alarming ftate
of the wound, which was becoming worfe, in-

the

IN ARABIA, l^C*

3^5

tlie hands of four or five empirics, induced the
Dola to fend, on the 4th of May, to enquire
whether we were ftill angry with him, or if our
phyfician would undertake to cure him. We
were all overjoyed to hear that the prejudices
which the governor had conceived againft us
were fo perfedly removed ; and Mr Cramer
gladly offered his fervices. No fooner had ou^-'
anfwer heen carried to the Dola, than he fent
one of his fervants with a mule for Mr Gramer«
Europeans, when they pafs before the Dola's
palace, are ufaally obliged to alight and walk,
if they happen to be mounted : but, to evince to
the people the entire reconciliation that had ta-
ken place between the Dola and us, Mr Cramer
was permitted to pafs through this forbidden
ground, and even to enter the court of the palace
without difmounting.

We had, after this, frequent opportunities of
feeing the Bola, and teftifying our friendiliip to
him. Mr Fornial one day related to him, how
we had been infiilted and turned out by the
owner of oar firft lodging. The Dola promifed
him fatisfaclion, and made the perfon of whom
he complained, be caft, that very night, into
prifon. Ifmael, enraged to fee his friend punifh-
ed for an acl of infolence v/hich he himfelf had
prompted, threatened us with a mob, by whicli
we might be torn in pieces, Mr I'brtkal, al-
though

326 niebuhr's travels

though regardlefs of his threats, waited oil the
Dola, and entreated him to liberate the prifoner,
and only recommend to him, to be more civi
to ftrangers in future.

This change in our fituation, rendered Mok-
ha much lefs unpleafant to us than it had been
at firft. But difeafe began now to fall feverelj
upon us ; I had been attacked, foon after our ar-
rival here, with a violent dyfentery, from which,
however, I recovered, after fifteen days ilL
nefs. Mr Von Haven, who had been ill at Beit
el Fakih, became much worfe here. After walk-
ing out in the cool of the evening, he was tole-
rably w^ell through the night ; but the heats of
the day he was quite unable to bear. At laft, -
he ventured to ly for feveral nights fucceflively,
upon the roof of the houfe, in the open air, and
■with his face uncovered. On the night of the
24th of May, he caught cold, and was fo ill in
the morning, that it was necelTary for two ler-
vants to carry him down into his apartment.
His fever was become doubly violent, and he
was delirious by the evening. He then
funk into a deep letliargy, and expired in the
night.

He had paid more attention than any other of
us, to oriental literature. The public have loH,
by his death, fome- very interefting difcoveries,

and

I

IN ARABIA, 327

and lome curious colledions of this fort, which
he had made.

The cuftom of interring the dead in a coffin, is
unknown in Arabia* We had one made, however,
for our deceafed friend, in order to preferve his
remains from any accident. The Captain of an
Englifli fhip lent us fix of his failors to bear the
body to the European burying place. All the
Englifh in Mokha attended at the funeral ; and
the obfequies were performed with more decen-
cy, and with lefs interruption, than thofe of a
Conful at Cairo, which were difturbed by the
crowding of the people to witnefs the folemni-
ty, and by the robbery of the audacious Bedouins,
On this occafion, the Arabs of Yemen fhewed
themfelves reafonable and humane.

Chap. V-

We leave Mokha.

Aft£R the death of Mr Von Haven, we began

to think ferioufly of leaving Mokha, and making

a tour into the interior parts of Yemen. We

were divided in opinion, with regard to the plaa

upoi?

niebuhr's teavrls

upon which we ought to regulate our fubfequent
proceedings ; fome being difpofed to remain a-
nother year in Arabia, while the reft v»^ere deii-
rous of returning immediately to Europe. But
we all agreed to fet out without farther delay^
upon our journey to Sana.

Mr Forfival and I had made feveral excurfions
in a very ßoiple guife, and almoft without atten-
dants. But as our whole party were now to tra-
vel all together, v/e could not well go without a
certain train to accompany us. We could not
however^ travel in this ftyle without permiffion
from the Dola, which v/ould not be eaiily obtain-
ed ; as it could not be thought, that he would
willingly fuffer his phyücian to leave him before
his vround were healed. We, neverthelefs, ven-
tured to make the requeft : but the Doja refufed
lis upon a fair pretext. He told us, that he muft
firft write to Sana, to know whether the Imam
would receive us, and that we could not leave
Mokha till the Imam had returned an anfwer.

'When thus refuied permiülon to proceed to
Sana, we begged that vv^e might, at leaft, be ai-
pwed to remove to Taoes, in the mean time, for
the lake of our health. Even this v/as refufed us.
We then propofcd to the Dola, to leave our phy-
fician behind. But the Arabs feared, that the
pain of fepaiation from bis friends, migbt fecret-

m ARABIA, Uc,

ly diftrefs Mr Cramer, fo as to render him more
negligent of his patient's cure.

When we complained of tliefe refcraints to
the principal men of the city, they obferved, that
it was hard to conceive what rendered us fo im-
patient to depart ; for that by going to the High-
lands, we fliould only endanger our health more,
as thofe who went thither from the burning fands
of Tehama, were commonly attacked with a vio-
lent fever, immediately upon their arrival.

At length, when we were much at a lofs how
to proceed, a furgical empiric luckily came in,
to free us from our perplexity. He proniifed to
cure the Dola's wound within eight days ; and
our phyfician was immediately difmifled. We,
at the fame time, obtained permilfion to fet out
for Taoes, and were favoured with a letter of re-
commendation to the Dola of that city. Mr
Cramer received for his fee, a mule with a fad-
die and bridle, and India fcuff for a fuit of clothes
in the Arab falhion. As an additiqnal proof of
his friendßiip, the Dola fent one of his fervants
to attend us. We fnould have been well pleaf-
ed to excufe this inftance of his attention ; for
his fervant v,^as- only a fpy, under a more honour-
able name, to watch over our conduct, and hin-
der us from going farther tnan Taoes.

Not wifning to run any rifk of loiing our rea-
dy money, we put it all into the hands of the

Vol. L T t Engliüi

33© niebuhr's travels

Engliüi interpreter, who gave us bills upon his
countrymen,, the Banians at TacEs and Sana.
This was the firll time we could get bills of ex-
change in the Eaft.

SECTION

IN ARABIA, Uc.

39®

SECTION XIL

JOURNEY FROM MOKHA TO TAOESe

Chap, I.

Our Progrefs to Ta^s. j

Leaving Mokha with pleafure, as our ftay in
it had been not a little difagreeable, we proceed-
ed, on the 9th of June, through a dry and defart
country, and, after advancing four miles, reached
Mufuy a village fituate juft upon the confines of
the Highlands. This village is known to the
Europeans, who fometimes come hither in par-^
ties for pleafure. But the buildings are wretch-
ed, and the heat is as oppreffive here as at Mok-
ha. The water, is, however, good, and the rich-
er inhabitants of Mokha fend hither for it ; as
that in the wells immediately around the city is
very bad.

T t 2 Next

33^

niebuhr's travels

Next day we travelled along the channel of a
large river, which, in the rainy feafon, difem-
bogues itfelf into the fea, near Mokha ; but is
commonly loft, at no great diftance from its head^
in the fands of Tehama. We palTed through fe-
veral villages ; and near the laft ofthefe, remark-
ed a fmall houfe, at which duties are paid for all
goods fent to the independent country of Jafa :
goods paffing into the ftates of the Imam pay no
fuch duties.

I ihali hereafter have occafton to fpeak of
Schiech ScbcBdeli, the famous faint of Mokha.
We happened to meet with one of his defcend-
ents, a good-natured ideot. Some young perfons
in our party addreßed him, and bandied jokes
aid raillery with him. They did not, indeed,
abufe him, but as little did they fliew him re-
fped'. They called him Schiech, in regard to his
' birth, but paid him no other honour. In this
inftance, the Arabs difcover more good fenfe than
the Turks, and efpecially than the Egyptians,
who treat all ideots as Schiechs, honour them
through life, and regard them as faints after their
death.

In the hilly country, the roads are too bad for
travelling by night. We faw, as we proceeded^
a large village, and near it, the fertile hills of
Hammara, which belong to Schiech Ibn Aklan ;
but the inhabitants of the village are not fubjed

to

IN ARABIA, er

to his authority. They had lately flaia two men,
and when the Schiech fent troops to chaftife
them, they retreated to the fummits of the hills.
We happened, fortunately, to enter one of the
large inns called by the Arabians, Mattrach ;
for, early in the afternoon, a violent ftorm arofe^
and fuch a quantity of rain fell, that all the high-
ways were flooded, and it became impoilible for
us to continue our journey.

On the 1 2th of June, after pafling through fe-
veral villages, and croffing fome fertile fields, we
arrived at Borebat, a town ten miles diftant from
Mokha. It is the capital of the territories of
Schiech Ibn Aldan, who refides here. Its iitu-
ation on the fummit of a hill, renders it natural-
ly ftrong. At the foot of the hill Hands a town,
the public prifon in which is faid to be the moii
difmal in Yemen. Before the door of the pri--
fon in Dorebat, we faw^ perfons who had been
guilly only of very trivial faults, confined, a num-
ber of them together, by one chain, in the open
air. Near them Hood a guard of foldiers of the
Imam's, whom the Schiech is obliged to main-
tain.

Continuing our journey from Dorebat, we found
on our way, a number of fine villages, and many
coffee huts, and Madsjils, or refervoirs for water,
in a columnar form. A violent fi:orm again com--
pelled us to halt. Next day we faw from a hill,

the

334

niebuhr's travels

the caftle of Taoes, ftill at a diftance. Early oft
the 13th we reached the city.

Immediately after oar arrival, we fent out let"
ter from the Dola at Mokha, to the Dola of Taoes,
who ftraightway required us to wait upon him
at his houfe. He feemed to be in a very good
humour, and made us an offer of Kifcher^ pipes,
and Kaad, (the buds of a certain tree which the
Arabs chew, as the Indians do Betel;) but we
did not reliih this drug. He related to us, how
that a report had been fpread at Taces, of our
having brought feveral chefls full of ferpents to
Mokha. He made us be conduced into a houfe
the proprietor of which he had lately imprifon-
ed ; and fent us, in a prefent, two lambs, with a
fmali quantity of meal. We, in our turn, offer-
ed him a piece cf India fluff.

Next day, we delivered our other letters of
recommendation from our friends at Mokha : of
thofe, one was addreffed to Bafaateh, the iiril fe-
cretary ; another to the fteward of the houfehold,-
Achmed ; a third to one Sejicl, a man of diflinc-
lion ; and a fourth to a Eanian. We were well
received, every where. The Dola of Mokha^s
ferva!\t had the prefumption to attend us on all
?)ur vißts, and impofed his company upon us, in
like manner, v/hen we received the vifits of
others. We could not imagine whether this

were

IN ARABIA, Uc.

were done out of vanity, or in order to keep a
llri6l eye on all our motions.

We found the temperature of this country to
agree entirely with our conftitutions. Inllead
of the oppreffive heats under which w^e had faint-
ed at Mokha, we had here, almoft every even-
iag, refrelhing rains.

Chap. II.

0/ the City of Taoss.

This city (lands at the foot of the fertile hill
of Sabber. It is encompaffed with a wall, be-
tween fixteen and thirty feet thick, and flanked
with feveral towers. The fortrefs of Kahhre
flands in the circuit of the wall : its walls are
faced with burnt bricks, but, within, confift of
bricks, which, inilcad of being burnt, have been
only dried in the fun.

This city has only two gates ; and each of
thefe is after the Arabic faüiion, fortified with
three towers. Only two of them are in a condi-
tion to bear cannons. The garrifon ccnßfted at
this time of fix hundred men. Thefe works ]y
fo under the command of the neighbouring
heights, that they would afford no defence againfl

any

3SÖ

NIEBUHPv's TPvAVELS

I

any but an army of Arabs v^ho are ftrangers^
in a manner, to the life of artillery.

The faint who has been alTumed as the patron
of the city of Ta^es, is the famous Ifmael Mulh
who, according to tradition, was once king of
this country. His remains are buried in
niofque which bears his name. But none have
been permitted to approach his tomb, fince once
that the faint thought proper to perform a
miracle v/hich gave diifatisfa^lion to the rulers.
This marvellous event was related to us witli
the following circomftances : Two beggars had
afl^ed charity from the Do! a of Taoes ; but on-
ly one of thefe had tailed of his bounty. The
other went, upon this, to the tomb of Ifmael
Mullc, to im.plore his aid. Ifmael, who, when
alive, had been very charitable, ftretched his
hand out of the tomb , and gave the beggar a
letter, containing an order on the Dola to pay
the beggar an hundred crowns. Upon examin-
ing this order, with the greateft care, it was
found that Ifmael Mulk had written it with his
own hand, and fealed it with his feal. The go-^
vernor could not refufe payment ; but, to avoid
all fubfequent trouble from fuch bills of ex-
change, he had a wall built, inclofing the tomb.

Near the mofque of Ifmael Mulk is a garden^
which was poiTelfed by Ifchia his foUo In it there
was fhewn to me a large bafon, and a hydraulic

machine?

IN ARABIA, i^C,

337

Hiachine, which in its time mutt have been an
ornament of no fmall confequence ; but all is
now in a ftate of decay, and almoft ruinous.

In the fame city^ and in its neighbourhood,
are many deferted and ruinous mofques ; one of
them, in a ftyle of architedure unufual in this
country, fhould feera to have been built by lorae
Turkifh Pacha. The devout founders of thefc
niofques, if they intended thereby to tranfmit
their memory to pofterity, have failed of their
purpofe. Their names have been forgotten, as
the mofques have funk into ruins.

The laft Lords of Taoes have made a more
judicious choice of buildings to diftinguifh them„
felves by. They have ereded noble palaces
for themfelves and their poflerity, and were con-
tent with a fmRll Kubbet for their oratory and
burial-place : Thus have they fpared the lands
which muft otherwife have been appropriated to
the maintenance of the clergy of an ufelefs mofque :
Their palaces are ft ill ftanding, and are the
ornaments of the city, which indeed does not
pofiefs many other fine buildings. Since the laft
war, many of the houfes have remained ruinous,
and fome of the fquares have even been convert-
ed into fields and meadows.

The ruins of two ancient cities, are ftUl to be
feen in th^ neighbourhood of Taoes. One of
them is Thobad, which is fituate near Mount

Vol. I. U u Sabber

338

niebuhr's travels

Sabber. Some parts of its walls, with a large
mofque belonging to it, are ftill Handing. The
other is Oddena, which {lands at no great dif-
tance from Thobad, upon the fummit of Mount
Sabber, over againft Kahhre. The latter was
the place of the reiidence of the kings of this
country ; its only remains are the ruins of fomc
mofques. Ifmael Mulk, having built his tomb
at the foot of the rock of Kahhre, fome of his
devout fubjeds chofe to live near their faint ;
others following their example, Oddena was
thus abandoned, and Taoes built. So, this city^
like Loheia, Beit el Fakih, and Mokha, owes its
rife to a faint.

Chap. IIL

Lati Revolutions of Ta/rs,

So modern a city cannot make a great figure
in the hiftory of Yemen. However, in thefe
late years, fome revolutions have taken place,
w^hich deferve to be briefly mentioned, as they
may ferve to give an idea of the povN/er of the
Imam, and of the manner in which the Ara-
bians go to war.

Imam El Man/or Hoßin, h'dd committed the
Government of Ta(£S, to his brother Achmed,

who,

IN ARABIA,

339

who, when afterwards recalled, refufed to obey.
With a force of two thoufand men, whom he
kept in pay, he flood out for twelve years, a-
gainft all that the Imam could fend, to reduce
him to his duty. Achmed had money coined
in his own name, levied taxes upon goods car-
ried between Mokha and Sana, and conducted
himfelf in all refpeds, as if he had been fove-
reign of the country. Yet, he aöiimed not the
title of Imam, or King, but contented himfelf
with that Sidif which is common to all the
princes of the blood-royal.

Sidi Achmed dying, left fix fons. The eld-
eft of whom, Ahdulla^ fucceeded him, and lived
on fair terms with the Imam. Abdulla dying
in 1759, left the fucceftion to his only fon Ab-
dul Kerim, a boy, thirteen years of age. Three
of the young prince's uncles, All, jacJjia, £nd
Machfer confpired to dethrone him. One of
the confpirators feized the fortrefs of Kahhre^
and each of the other two made himfelf mafter
of a gate, with fome adjoining towers. But, ^as
the revenues of thefe three princes were very
fcanty, they could neither keep many foldiers
on foot, nor even purchafe proviiions. They
were particularly in want of powder ; and wljen-
ever one of them could procure a few pounds of
ammunition, he never ceafed firing upon his
U u 2 brotliers,

niebuhr's travels

brothers, till the whole was exhaufted. Äiit
they Dever came to a fair combat.

In thefe circumftances, young Abdul Kerim
wrote to his uncle the reigning Imam, begging
his afliftance, and intreating him to liipport him
* in the poiTeffion of his dominions. The Imam
having long wiflied to take part in the quarrel,
lent an army to reduce the rebels. Bat the
Nakib or General, El Mas, who commanded this
army^ hav'fig no artillery, had no other expe-
dient, but to fire with mufquet-ihot, from a
mofque v^^ithout the wail, by which he could
make no advancement in the liege.

The Imam had for feveral years had a dan-
gerous enemy in a Schiech named Abdurrab^
who had occupied the territory of Hodsjerie,
During the blockade of Taces, this Schiech ap-
proached Mokha, and the Imam then found it
rieceffary to feek a reconciliation with his enemy,
peace was m.ade, through the intermediation of
the generals, on condition, that the Schiech
fhould lend afliftance to accomplifhthe conqueft
of Tac£S. But his troops being deftitute of can-
nons, v/ere as little in a condition as thofe of
the Imam-, to ftorm the tovitv. Yet the ihrewd-
nefs of Abdurrah fuggefted a ftratagem. He
promifed a thoufarid crowns to twelve of the
befieged foldiers, who were pofted in a tov/er,
if Ehej would permit his troops to enter. Bj

this

^^T ARABIA, Uc,

34^

mis means, the city was taken in the end of th-e
year 1760, and facked.

After the conqueft of Taffis, the Imam gave
the family of Sidi Achmed, with Schiech Ab-
durrah, a friendly invitation to vifit him at Sa-
na. The latter was at fir ft unwilling to pat
liimfelf in the powpr of his old enemy ; but the
Imam impowered his generals to pledge his faith
for the Schiech's fecurity ; and he was according-
ly taken in the fnare. The Imam treated this
hero with the blackeft perfidy, and put him to
an ignominious death. He returned the fer-
vices of his generals with bafe ingratitude, and
refufed to reinftate x\bdul Kerim m his father's
principality. I faw the young prince going to
the mofque, at Sana;, having 3. parafol CcLXXiQd
over him, like the other princes of the blood
royal. His two uncles^ Sidi Jach la, and .oiui
Machfar, were caft into confinement as rebels :
The third, Sidi Ali, happening luckily to be fa-
thcr-in-law to the reigning Imam, preferyed his
liberty, and lives privately at Sana. After thcTr
events, the Imam lent a Doia to Taces ; and j .
is now under the fame government as the other
cities in his dominions.

34^

niebuhr's travels

Chap. IV,

Stay at Taces»

The Dola who governed this city when we
vifited it, had been an officer in the Imam's ar-
mj, and had rifen rapidly to the rank of Nakib^
without owing his fortune to his birth, as moil,
of thefe governors do* His government was
very extenfive, comprehending both Mount
Sabber and the territory of Hodsjerie in which
are a number of Schiechs, whofe families have»
for thefe feveral centuries, poiTeffed fmali, and
almoit independent Lordfhips. They pay tax-
es to tiie Imam, but value themfelves much on
their nobility of defccnt, and treat their gover-
nors with c©ntempt. Our D®la had already
had feveral differences with thofe haughty no-
bles, who refufed fubmiiiion to his authority. He
bad put one of the mutinous Schiechs in prifon,
and had detained' a female Have whom the Arab
was carrying away with him. An order from the
Imam, however, obliged him to fet both at li-
berty ; but he remained in indignation againil
thofe Schiechs in general. He feized the firil
occaiion that offered, and fent out half a dozen
foldiers among them, who, according to their
maflier's orders, conduced themfelves with great
inibience towards thofe highlanders. The fchiechs
could not bear fuch infults ; but made an infur-

redion.

IN -ARABIA, läc. ■ 342

reclion, and malTacred them all. Since that
period, nobody from Taces has ventured to vi»
lit the highlands without expoiing his life to
extreme danger. "It was even faid^ that the
Schiechs would never be quiet till the Imam
fhould recal the Dola.

The exuberant fertility of Mount Sabber af-
fords, according to the accounts of the Arabs^
plants of every fpecies that is to be found any
where elfe through the world. Mr Forlkal had
this mountain daily before his eyes ; but, to his
infinite mortification, could not obtain peimif--
lion to botanize upon it. He propofed to bring
a Schiech from the mountains at his own ex-
pence, under whofe protection he might go out
upon his herborizing expeditions^ without danger.
But the Dola put a negative upon all his pro-
pofals, and would only fufter him to take a ihort
ramble over Mount Saurek. My friend fet out
on the 20th of June, and returned on the 22d^
having found the villages in that diflriä: deferted^
^ in confequence of the intolerable exadlions of
thb Dola, which had forced the inhabitants to
retire and fettle elfevv'here. In fo wretched a
country, Mr Forßcal could neither find provi-.
lions, nor travel about infafety.

We had occafion to obferve the negligence v/itli
which the Arabs obferve the phafes of the moon^
or rather their ignorance cf aflronomy. When

the

344

neibuhk's travels

the pilgrims arrive on mount Harapliat, in the
neighbourhood of Mecca, all the Moflems cele-
brate a feflival, called Araja or Korban, for
which an immenfe quantity of camels, oxen>
and fhcep are killed. Every body believed that
this feflival was to begin on the 22d of June ;
and, as it lalts three days, during which no pro-
vifions are brought in from the country, all had
provided fheepj fugar, and flour for their en-
tertainment during that time. Mean while^ a
courier arrived from Sana, with information
that the new moon had appeared a day fooner
than ilie was expeded, and that the feaft muft be
celebrated on the 22d of June.

On the day appointed, the iignal was given^
by fii:ing a few fhots of a cannon. The Dola^
with a numerous company, went in proceffion
to a fquare without the city, where, upon fo-
lemn occafions, prayers were ufually offered up
in the open air. Returning theoce, he went
to the parade, where the principal inhabitants
of the city were engaged in the exercife of
the Dsjerid*

The Dola, flriving to fnew his addrefs, was
thxown from his horfe. However, all returned
home, made good cheer, chewed Kaad, and
burned fpices in their houfes.

In order to make the mofl of our flay at
Taoes, I wiüied to make fome excurfions

through

IN ARABIA, i^C.

345

through the interior country, but dürft not at-
tempt thein, on account of the prevailing dif-
turbances. I was at laft difpofed to content
niyfeif with copying an infer iption in the for-
trefs ; and Mr Forlkal refumed his intention of
fending for a Schiech from mount Sabber. The
Dola agreed to our wißies ; but at midnight, he
fent to tell us, that he had received a letter
from the Dola of Mokha, requiring us to return
immediately to the latter city, We fufpecled
this letter to be a pretence, and refufed to be
gone. Early in the morning, however, ca-
mels were fcnt to carry us away, but we fcnt
them back. With Turks we dürft not have
(ione fo much.

W e could not comprehend what were the Do.
la's views, unlefs, perhaps, he might, like the^
Dola of Mokha, intend to extort fome confider-
able pre fent from us. Into thefe views we had
no difpofition to enter, and therefore ibught a pri-
vate audience of him, in hopes of bringing him to
reafon. Our fervant was feveral times fent back
under difi^erent pretexts. At laft, Mr Foiikal ob-
tained accefs to the Dola, and begged of him only
to permit us to wait till we ftiould receive the Im-
am's anfv/er, without mentioning our little
fchemes. But the governor cut him ihort, laying ;
lince you would not credit my fervants, I myfelf
order you to be gone to Mokha to-morrow.

Vol. I, . X X Ghap.

niebuhr's travels

I

Chap, V.

Depart irre from Taoes to Sana»

SeeIng no means to elude the Dola's orders, we
had already packed up our goods, when a favour^
able change fuddenly took place upon our cir-
cumftances. A letter was brought us by exprefs
from the Dola of Moliha, and in it were three
others ; one to the Imam, another to his vizier,
and a third to the Dola of Tao^s. He informed
us, that the Imam gave us permilTion to go to
Sana, and wifhed us to carry our curioiities with
us. He acquainted the Dola of Tacss with their
mailer's orders, and begged him to favour our de«
parture to S^na. Mr Forflial went inftantly
with this letter to the governor, but could not
obtain accefs to him, and was obliged to give it
to his fervant. - "

¥v^e now thought our affairs in a good train^
and w ould even have fet out without troubling
the Dola farther, if we could have obtained ca-
mels without his interpofition on our behalf.
Thofe Vvdio hire thefe cattle are united in a fort
of corporation ; and travellers are obliged to apply
to the head of the company, who has recourfe
upon the owners of the camels, and makes them
furnifh, in tmn. the number which may be want-
ed.

IN ARABIA, i^C,

347

ed. Unluckily the Dola himfelf was at the head
of this company, and was obliged to furnifn ca-
mels in his turn. V/e let him know that we
were about to depart. He anfwered, that camels
v.^ere ready to convey us back to Mokha, but
that the orders refpeccing our journey lo Sana re-
garded only the Dola of Mokha.

In the perplexity to which we were reduced
by this condu6l of the Dola's, we knew not what
to do. Several inftances of the equity and ge-
nerofity of the Cadi Vv^ere in the mean time re^
jated to us, in which he had brought the Go-
vernor to reafon in cafes limilar to ours. We
made our complaints therefore to that judge, and
Ihewed him our letters from Mokha. He thought
the Dola's condud very unreafonable, and imme-
diately wrote to him to bevv^are of doing any
thing in contradiclion to the orders of the Imam«
The Dola replied, that he did not hinder our
journey to Sana, but, afked us to ftay one day
till he fhould write his letters to court upon the
occafion. We offered to ftay two or three days.
Notwithftanding this, the Dola's fervants cam^
next morning, and ordered us in his name, to
depart to Mokha. We had again recourfe to
the Cadi, who being previouily informed of all
that had happened, had, in the morning, written
to the Dola, that he fhould not ad: in a harfh or
interefted manner with us ; for we were ilrangcrs.

The

34§

niebuhr's travels

The Bai]<:ateb told us in the evening, that the
Doia was forry, that his fervants had come to
with a meiTage in his name which he had given
them no orders to deliver. But upon this head
we knew fufficiently what to think.

The Dola of Mokha's fervant could not now
be of farther ufe to us ; we difmilTed him there-
fore with a handfome reward. But as we ftill
wanted a guide who knew the interior parts of
Yemen, we begged the Cadi to dired us to fuch
a one; and he politely fent us an Arab, who after-
wards accompanied us to Mokha, and with whom
we were perfedlly fatibfied. The Dola Ihewed
likewife a difpoiition to make amends by kind-
nefs for the trouble he had given us, and order-
ed one of his fervants to accompany us on our
journey. This man had the addrefs to ftipulate
before-hand, in the prefence of feveral perfons
of diflinclion, for the wages which we were to
pay him.

The Cadi, unalked, had the generolity to give
us a letter of recommendation to the Imam's vizier,
in which he told him, that he fhould beware of
believing any thing that might be related to him
to the difadvantage of thefe Franks* We could
have wifhed to make the judge a prefent of a
watch ; his probit/ and beneficence having infpir-
ed us with the higheft veneration for his charac-
ter^ and the livelieft giatitade for his favours.

But

IN ARABIA, ^C.

349

But we were informed that he would accept na
fuch thing, left he might appear to have inter-
efted views in taking part with us.

We could not fee the Dola before our depart-
ure. He avoided receiving our vifit under pre-
tence of illnefs. Our friends however alTured
us, that he was fallen ferioufly ill, in confequence
of the uneafinefs which our obftinate refiftance
to his will had given him. Our firmnefs was in-
deed faid to have made him contemptible in the
eyes of the inhabitants of the city.

His condud: had occafioned us no lefs vexa-
tion. I even blame the uneafinefs with which
Mr Forlkal was at that time agitated, as the firft
-occafion of the illnefs, which, foon after, hurri-
ed my friend to the grave.

SECTION

KEIBUi?R*S TRAVEiS

SECTION XIIL

fOURNEY TO SANA,

I

Chap. L

Rbut from Ta£s to Jerim^

E ROM Taoes we fet out on the 28tli of June ; and,
for the two firfl days, found no human habita-
tions on our way, except fome paltry coffee huts,
a few villages, and a fmall town ; and mod of
the villages were falling into ruius. The coun-
try is uncultivated, and almoft defolate ; which
feems to be owing to the late wars for the fuccef-
lion to the throne of Taoes.

On the third day we reached Mb arras, which
I had formerly travelled over in one of my pre-
vious excurfions. A violent Horm furprifed us^
and gave us an opportunity of remarking how
the torrents^ rufliing upon fuch occaiions from

the

IN ARABIA, iJc,

35^

hills, produce the gullies, one of which we pafiT-
ed on an arch of folid ilone.

The great inns which are fcattered over tlie
country from the Tehama thus far, are called
Mattracb, Thefe are private houfes, the mailers
of v/hich furnifh travellers with their meals,
which are commonly very indifferent. Between
Mharras and Sana, almoft at every half day's
journey, Hands a large Simfera of burnt bricks.
Thefe edifices, like the caravanferas in Turkey
have been built by wealthy perfons for the üc-
commodation of travellers, and afford fafe lodg-
ing, but no other fort of food than coffee, rice,
bread and butter. The traveller muil bring his
other provifions with him.

On the firft of July, having croiTed Mount
Mharres upon a paved road, we entered a more
fertile country, and after paffing feveral villages
and a number of Madsjils, arrived ^.t Jhh, This
city (lands on the height of a hill, is farrounded
by a ftrong wall, and contains 800 houfes, moil
of which are in a good fafhion of building. Its
itreets are paved, and it has a good many fmall
mofques. Beiide one of thefe is a large refer-
voir, which receives water by an aqueduÖ, and
fupplies all the houfes in the city^

At a fmall difcance, between Abb and Dsjohla
are two rivulets, one of which running weft-
ward, is encreafed into the river Zebid ; and th^

35^

niebuhr's travels

other running fouthward, forms Meidam a river
which difembogues itfelf into the fea near Aiden.
The different courfes of thefe rivers, two of the
moft confiderahie in the country, and the cir-
cumftance of their taking their rife here, feem
to indicate this as the moll elevated fpot in the
mountainous part of the Imam's dominions. The
height of mount Sumara, which we palTed on the
day following, is another proof of this.

We travelled down mount Abb, along good,
paved roads, and then cirolTed a country of a
varied furface, having villages, madsjils and
fioufes for the protedlion of travellers, fcattered
over it. No remarkable place was to be feen
except the city otMuchoder, Handing on a hill,
and the feat of a Dola.

After fpending the night in a Simfera, we be-
gan to afcend mount Sumara, a hill much higher
than Mharres, by ways v^^hich had been render-
ed accelTible to camels by being paved, and carried
in a winding direä:ion round thofe places,
v/liich were too fteep for diredl accefs. Half
way up the hill is the village of Menlil, in which
is a fuperb Simfera built all of hewn ftone. We
obtained a convenient apartment upon the roof,
of which Mr Forikal, yAio was now extremely
weak, flood very much in need.

Here we remained during the next day, and
would gladly have ilaid till our friend had been

fomewhat

IN ARABIA, l^C;

353

ibmewhat better ; but our camel- drivers could
not here find food fitting for their cattle. They
propofed to us to proceed to Jerim, a city at a
fmall diftance, and promifed that our fick friend
fhould be borne by men over the rugged roads
of mount Sumara.

We were perfuaded, and fet forward on the
5th of July. I went before, to enjoy the frefii
air ; a piece of inexcufable imprudence in places
of fo keen a temperature. I foon felt myfelf af-
feded with a fevere rheum, vomitings, and ex-
ceffive thirft, which I could, not have quenched
Dn that defart mountain, if I had not fortunate-
ly met with a peafant who permitted me to
drink out of his pitcher of water, I faw nothing
in this part of our journey, v»^hich feemed
worthy of attention, except a ruinous caftle, the
property of the family of Haflan, and itanding
on the very peak of Mount Sumara. In this
neighbourhood, are two tribes of wandering
Arabs, who are now fettled in villages. There
are no more Bedouins in the Imam's do-
minions.

The Arabs could not be perfuaded to carry
a Chriilian; and Mr Forßial was therefore
placed in his bed upon a camel. Although we
had proceeded flowly, he was in a deplorable
condition, by the time we reached Jerim. We
now found, that, although we had accuftomed

Vol-- I« Y y ourfelves

35^

neibukr's travels

ourfelves to live like the inhabitants of the
country, yet there were certain conveniences
which in cafe of illnefs we could not well
wanto

Chap. IL

Of the city of J er im,

"W^E lodged in a public inn. But the crowd
of fpedators whom curiofity brought together^,
to fee the Europeans, becoming extremely
troublefome, we hired a more quiet apartment
in the city, where we might live undiiturbed till
our fellow traveller Ihould recover his health.
It was impcfiible to find perfons who would
carry our lick friend. Our Mahometan fervant
refufed to affift us in removing Mr Forfkal from
the one houfe to the other; and we vverc oblig-
to carry him ourfelves.

Jerim is but a fmall town, yet the feat of a
Dola, who refides in a callle fituate on a rock*
The houfes are built of flone, and of bricks
w^hich have been dried in the fun. I faw no-
thing farther remarkable about this town.

At tvv-o miles diflance from Jerim, according
to the tradition of the Arabs, Hood once a fa-
mous city Bbafar, very little of the ruins of

which

IN ARABIA, i^C.

3S5

BOW remain. The firft magiftrate of Jerirn^
however, told me, that a large ftone is ftiil to be
feen there, with an infcription, which neither
Jews nor Mahometans can explain. This was
probably the ßtuation of the city of T'aphar,
which ancient hiftorians mention as the feat of
the Hamjarines. If any Hamjarine infcription
fhall ever be difcovered, it will probably be
among thefe ruins. The Arabs maintain that
Dhafer was the feat of Saad-el-Kammel, a fa-
mous hero, king of all Arabia^ who lived eigh-
teen hundred years ago.

On. the eaft fide of mount Sumara, we found
the climate very different from what it was on
the weft fide. It had rained almoft every day
ofourjourney fromTa^s to Meniil; and the earth
w^as covered with a charming verdure. At Je„
rim, on the contrary, no rain had fallen for three
months, although diftant thunder had been heard
almoft every day. In this want of rain, the
locufts had multiplied prodigiouily, and had
eaten up almoft all the produdlions of the
earth. The inhabitants of Jerim refolved to
put up public prayers for. rain, on the eighth of
July ; and for that purpofe, repaired in procef-
ii on to a place Vv^ithout the city, v/here fuch fo-
lemnities were ufually performed. The company,
who walked in proceiTion, confifted of a number
of clergymen in a drefs expreffive of humility.

Y y 2 Ths

3S6 niebuhr's travels

Two venerable Schechs walked at tlieir head^
bearing open calkets full of books. As they
proceeded, all fang and repeated fliort prayers.
Hardly was this ceremony over, when, on the
very fame evening, a ftorm arofe, with hail and.
a very heavy rain. The rains became after-
wards more frequent. Between the tropics they
fall at regular periods, on the different fides of
the great ranges of hills.

In all the markets, locufts were fold at a low
price ; for fo prodigiouily numerous were they in
a plain near Jerim, that they might be taken
by handfuls. We faw a peafant having a fack
full of them, which he was going to dry and lay
up for winter proviiions. Whenever it ceafed
raining for an hour or two on the other fide of
mount Sumara, legions of thefe infeds ufed to
come over to Jerini. We faw the peafants of
Meniil purfuing them, in order to preferve their
fields from abfolute defolatioo^

In the ftreets of Jerim, we faw a bridegroom
proceeding to the bath in ceremoBy. Two
boys went before, dancing to the mulic of a
timbrel ; a crowd followed, confiiling of per->
fons of all ages, who Ihot piftols in the air as
they went on ; the bridegrooom with his friends
clofed the procelTion. At night, a number of
flambeaus were lighted up, and formed a
pretty enough illumination.

We

IN ARABIA, Ue-,

357

We were one day entertained by two gladi-
ators, who, for a few peices of fmall moneyj
exhibited their addrefs in the ftreets. They
wore maiks, the firfl I had feen in the eali,
and were armed with a buckler and a polgnard»
They did not fight to wound one another : the
perfedion of their art confided in their leaping,
and in feveral agile turns of the body.

Being ever unwilling to mingle with crowds,
I had not yet feen any of the markets in Arabia,
although thefe are reforted to as places of amufe-
ment by the inhabitants of the country. To di-
vert myfelf a little, I went to the market at Je«
j-im. A great many people were met in it, who
-were chiefly peafants that had come to fell their
different articles. I faw no (hops furnifhed with
goods of any confiderable value. Many taylors,
fhoemakers, blackfmiths, and other artifans, fat
along the ftreets, behind low walls, and wrought
at their trades in the open air. I faw alfo fur-
geons who drew blood with a common knife^
and then drefied the wound with pieces of hartf-
|iorn cut off at the root of the horn.

35^

NISBUHR's TRAVE2,3

Chap. Ill,

Death of Mr Forßal.

On the ür ft days after our arrival at Jerim^
Mr For&al's illnefs feemed to decreafe. But it
foon after returned with fuch violence that we
defpaired of his recovery. On the evening of
the tenth of July, he funk into a deep lethargy^
in which ftate he continued till his death, the
next mormng, V/e were deeply affected at his
lofs. In confeq^uence of his botanical excurfionsj
he had learned more than any of us, of the Ara-
bic tongue, and its different dialeds. Fatigue,
or the want of conveniences, never difcouraged
him ; he could accommodate himfelf to the man-
ners of the people of the country ; without do-
ing whichj indeed, no one can hope to travel
with advantage through Arabia. In Hi ort, he
feemed formed by nature for fuch an ex-
pedition as that in which v/e were engaged.

It was necelTary for us to notify the death of
our companion to government. To this end,
we fent the Dola of Tases's fervant to the Dola
and the Cadi of Jerim. The latter politely di-
reded us to an Arab, who could fell us a place,

v*'here

*

IN ARABIA, Wc, 359

Hvhere we might inter our deceafed friend.
The bargain which we ftruck with this man did
not take eiFed ; for the place being near a canal
intended for the watering of the meadows, the
poiTelTors of thefe had threatened our Arab with
an adion at law, if the water fhould fail
on account of the Chriftian's body. We foon
after obtained a different place for the fame
price.

The Dola then expreffed a wifh to confer
with fome one of our number. He informed
me, thai;, in quality of governor, he had a right
to the perfonai effects of all Jews and Banians who
died within his dominions. I anfwered that the
deceafed was neither a Jew nor a Banian, but
an European ; and that the Dola of Mokha had
laid no claim to the effects of one of my compa«
nions, who died in that city. The Dola's
fon then explained to me his father's intention?,
who expeded to receive at lead a confiderable
prefent. I told him that Europeans were accuf-
ffomedtopay nothing without receiving a written
acquittance ; and that if he would grve us in writ-
ing a ilatement of what he required, we fliould
then fee what we could do. After this, the Dola
who knew that we were going to Sana, and pro-
bably feared that we might complain of him
there, left us at peace*

Our

3ÖO

talBUHR's TRAVELS

Our greateft difficulty now was to find per-
fons to bear the body to the grave ; and this^
even although we promifed to pay very liberal-
ly for the ferviee. At laft we prevailed with fix
men to convey it to the burying- place at mid-
night. They performed the tafk, but ran and
hid themfelves, in the beft manner they could, all
the way ; fo great is the averfion of thofc people^
to touch a Chrifi:ian.

We refolved to bilry our deceafed friend in a
coffin ; but we had done better to have followed
the Arabian mode, and wrapped him fimply in
a fear- cloth. The coffin made the people fiif«
ped: that we Europeans buried riches with' the
bodies of our dead. At Sana, we learned that
Mr ForikaPs body had been taken up by nighty
End that the grave-clothes had been fnatched
away, after the coffin was opened. The Dola
obliged the Jews to bury it again, and left
them the coffin for their pains.

Chap. IV.

. Route from Jerim to Sana^

AftePv the burial of our friend, we had nothing
to detain us from continuing our journey. On

the

IN ARABIA, i^C.

tlie 13th of July, we left Jerim, and after pro-
ceeding for four miles along rugged roads^ and
through a barren country, arrived on the fame
day at Damar. Through this trad of road, the
people who fell Kifcher are in fo wretched a
«Kondition, that they live in poor huts, and ly
on the ground.

As we had lived fo long at Jerim, the inha-^
bitants of Damar had previous notice of our ap-
proach. Europeans feldom pafs this w^ay ; and
the people of this place being therefore very
curious to fee us, came out and met us half a
league from the city. As we drew^ nearer, the
erovv^d became more numerous ; and therefore
to avoid being teized and difturbed by them,
Vv e would not enter an inn, but hired an empty
houfe. This precaution little availed us ; for
the crowd iurrounded us in fuch a manner that
we could not enter our lodging. Mr Cramer
being mounted on his mule, forced his way r
but then they exclaimed againit the infolence
of the inSdels, and began to throw fiones in at
our windows. We thought of afking a guard
From the Dola, but were told that he had only
thirty foldiers in all, and was afraid of the
mob liimfelf. At laß:, the firft nja giftrate com-
ing to confult our phyßcian advifed us to take
no notice of the petulance of the ftudents, who
threw ftones that they might draw us to the wia^

Vol. I. X z. dows.

362

niebuhr's travels

dows. The tumult foon ceafed, and the mob dit
perfed.

The city of Damar Hands in a fertile plain. It
is the capital of a province, and is governed by
a Dola, who refides in a large caflle. It has a
famous univerfity, in which to the number of
five hundred ftudents are commonly employed
in their ftudies. It is without walls ; its build-
ings are good ; and it is very large, containing
no fewer than five thoufand houfes. The Jews
live in a detached village ; but the Banians are
permitted to live in the town among the mufflik
mans.

In no other city had our phyfician better
pra6lice. As he was unwilling to go out on ac«
count of the mob, the fick were brought to him
in their beds ; and an inhabitant of this town
accompanied us to Sana, purely that he might
have an opportunity of confulting our phyfician
by the way, and in that city.

Near Damar is a mountain containing a mine
of native fulphur. In another hill, fomewhat
' farther diftant, thofe fine carnelians are found
which are fo much efteemed in Arabia.

Our European fervant falling ill, we left him
at Damar, to follov/ us by fhort journies. At
his arrival, he complained that nobody would
give him lodging by the way. The Arabs were
afraid that he might die in their houfes^ and that

they

IN ARABIA, Uc^ 365

might be obliged to take the expence and pains
of burying him.

On the fourteenth of July we crolTed a plain en-
compaffed ^vith bare and arid hills. Near the road,
and within a mile of Damar, is the fmail town of
Mauahbel, in which the Imam dwelled whom the
Author of the voyage to Arabia Felix faw in the be-
ginning of the prefent century. The road becomes
very rugged ; and the country appears marlhj
and ill-cultivated towards Suradge. From Sur-
adge to Sana, the villages are all furrounded with
orchards and vineyards. We were here overtaken
by a ftorm of hail, accompanied with peals of
thunder ; but no Madgils were nigh^ to fheitei:
the traveller^

Next day we had Hill worfe roads to travel ;
which feemed furprißng, fo near the capital.
We faw Hodafa, which Hands on a deep, infuU
ated rock, and in which is faid to be a curious
infcription, upon an old wall. This infcription
was mentioned to me at Taies'^ and I was inform-
ed by a Jew at Sana, that the charaders refemble
neither the Arabic nor the Hebrew. I fufped
them to be Hamjarene, and am forry that I had
it not in my power to examine them.

After palling through feveral paultry villages^
we at length reached Seijan, a village, which, to-
gether with Suradge, belongs to the princes of
the blood ; we obferved in it a good many ruin-

304 kiebuhr's travels

ous houfes. As there falls not enough of rain
here, large refervoirs have been formed at the
foot of the hills, and from thefe fhe water is dis-
tributed through the country at confiderable ex-
pence and trouble.

Hoping to enter Sana, on the i6th of July^
we put on our Turkiüi drefles in the morning ;
their appearance being fomewhat better than
that of the Arabic garb we had worn in the courfe
of our journey. Along a flone bridge, we palTed a
fmall river, the water of which is, not far below,
loft among the fand ; and we halted near the
•village of Hadde, where the Imam has an 01:«
chard; at a mile's diftance fromi Sana.

SECTiqN

I

IN ARABIA, l^C.

395

SECTION XIV.

piJR STAY AT SANA, IN THE IMAM'S COURT.

Chap. L

Our arrha! at Sana*.

On the morning of the i6th of July we had fent
our fervant forward, with a letter, addrefled t©
faJdh Ach7Jied, the Imam's vizier, announcing to
him our arrival. But that nobleman, having al-
ready heard of our near approach, had fent one
of his principal fecretaries, to meet us, and bid
us welcome. Thi^ deputy informed us, that we
had been long expected at the court of Sana,
and that the Imam had hired an elegant country-
houfe for us, in the fuburb of Bir-el-Aßah,

We learned that the Vizier had likewife a ^
filla there. When we arrived near this place,

the

NIEBÜHR's TRAVELS

the fecretaiy aiked us to alight. We fuppofcd-
upon this, that we were to be immediately in-
troduced to the Vizier ; but we only faw our
Secretary and our muffulman fervants proceed
on their affes, while we were obliged to march on
foot, a long way, before we reached our lodging.
This humiliating ceremony was what we had not
expeded to be fubjeded to among the Arabs,
who value themfelves upon their poiitenefs.

In our villa we found very good rooms, bu^.
thofe perfedly naked and unfurniflied. We
were here as ill accommodated as we had been
in Yemen, and more fo than v/e could have
been in a caravanfera, where we would at leaft
iiave found food. Here we were obliged to faft;
till we could have vicluals brought from the
city. Befide our houfe, was an orchard, in which,
the trees appeared to have grown of themfelves^
without receiving any culture.

Next morning the Imam fent us a prefent^
confining of five üieep, with wood, rice, lights^
and fpices. The bearer of this prefent had at
the fame time orders to let us know, that the
Imam was forry that he could not fee us for
thefe two days yet, he being at prefent employ-
ed in paying off his mercenary troops. This
delay we would have regarded with indifference,
had Vv-e not been at the fame time enjoined to
keep within doors, till we fhould obtain our

firft

IN ARABIA, \!fc.

367

Mrft audience of his-Highnefs. We could hare
wiflied to make the moll of our flay here.

They had however forgotten to warn us, that
the etiquette of this Court likewife prohibited
flrangers from receiving vilits from the inhabi-
tants of the country till they fhouid firfl appear
there. We had an acquaintance at Sana, a
Jew, who had made the voyage from Cairo to
Loheya in our company. This Jew, although
belonging to one of the richeß: and moil refpeäi-
able families of his nation, had entered into our
Service, for the courfe of that voyage, either that
he might travel in the greater fecurity, or to
fpare the expence. Accordingly, he no fooner
heard of our arrival, than he came to pay us a
viiit, and, next day brought one of the greateil
aftrologers in his nation to fee us. While thefe
men were in our company, the Secretary of Vizier
Fakib Achmed happened to come in. The two
Jews rofe before him, in teftimony of refpecl.'
But the fecretary, angry that they fhculd have
prefumed to violate the etiquette, drove them
out of the houfe, and ordered our fervants to ad-
mit no perfon to vifit us, tilLwe ftiould firfl have
waited on his mafler.

Ckap,'

39§

Chap. II,

Our attdiencs cf the Imami

On the 19th of Julj, the fecretary of the vizier.
Fakih Achmed, came to condiicr us to an audi-
ence of the Imam, in his palace of Biißan el
MetwokkeL We had expected that we fiiould
be introduced privately to an audience of this
monarch, or at leafl in prefence only of a few of
his principal courtiers. W e were furprifed there-
fore to fee every thing prepared for an Occafiod
of great ceremony. The court of the palace was
ib full of horfes, officers, and others, that we
iliould fcarcely have made our way through the
srowd, if the Nakib Gheir Alia, who had been
a fiave, but was now mafler of the horfe, had
not come, v/ith a great llafFin his hand^ to open
a paflage for us.

The hali of audience was a fpacious fquarc
cham^ber having an arched roof. In the middle
was a large bafon, with {om^. Jets d'^eau, riling
fourteen feet in height. Behnid the bafon, and
near the throne, were tv/o large benches, each
a foot and an half high : upon the throne was a
%ace covered' with filken fluff, on which, as

WCil

IN ARABIA, ^r, 399

well as on both fides of it, laj large cufhions.
The Imam fat between the cufliions, with his legs
crofled in the eaflern fafhion ; his gown was of
a bright green colour, and had large fleeves.
On each fide of his breafl v/as a rich filleting of
gold-lace, and on his head he wore a great white
turban. His fons fat on his right hand, and his
brothers on his left. Oppofite to them, upon
the highefl of the two benches, fat the vizier ;
and our place was on the lower bench. On the
two fides of the hall, fat rriany of the principal
men about court.

We were firft led up to the Imanij and w^ere
permitted to kifs both the back and the palm of
his hand, as well as the hem of his robe, It is
an extraordinary favour, when the Mahometan
princes permit any perfon to kifs the palm of
the hand. There was a folemn filence through
the whole hall. As each of us touched the
Imam's hand, ä herald fiill proclaimed ; ^' God

preferve the Imam !" Ail who were prefent
repeated thofe words aloud after him. I was
thinking at the time, how I fiiould pay my com-
pliments in Arabic, and was not a little difturb-
ed by this noify ceremony ; but I had afterwards
time to reccllecl myfelf.

As the language fpoken at the court of Sana,
differs greatly from that of Tehama, the only
dialed of the Arabic tongue vdlh which we
Vol. L a a a. were-

400

NEIBUKR-S TRAVELS

were familiarly acquainted, or could ipeak IC-
lerablj, we had brought our fervant whom we
had hired in Mokha, to be our interpreter^
The vizier who had relided long in Tehama, did
the fame fervice for the Imam. Our converfation,
confequentljj could not be either very long, or
very interefting. V/e did not think proper tö
mention the true reafons of our expedition
through Arabia; but told the Imarn^ that wilh-
ing to travel by the fliorteft way to the Danifli
colonies in the Eaft Indies, we had heard fo
much of the plenty and fecurity which prevailed
through the dominions of the Imam, that we
had refolved to fee them with our own eyes, that
■wc might defcribe them to our countrymen*
The Imam told us, we were welcome into his
dominions, and might ftay as long as v/e pleaf-
ed. After repeating the ceremony of killing the
Imam's hands, and hearing the repeated accla-
mations of the fpectators, v* e now retired in the
fame order in which we had come in.

The Imam fent us, after our return home, to
each a fmall purfe containing ninty nm^Komaßs^
two and thirty of which make a crown. This
piece of civility might perhaps appear no compli-
ment to a traveller's delicacy* But, when it is
conlidcred that a llranger, unacquainted with the
value of the money of the country, obliged to
pay every day for his provifions, is in dan-
ger

IN ARABIA, l^C.

401

ger of being hiipofed upon by the money-chan-
gers, this care of providing us with fmall money
will appear to have been fuiTiciently obliging.
We therefore accepted the prefent, although we
bad refolved not to be in any degree chargeable
to the Arabs.

Chap, Hi.

Vifit to Vizier Fakih Achmsd.

In Turkey nq perfon is admitted to an audience
of the Sultan, till after he has vilited the vizier.
The cuilom in Yemen is direcrly contrary. Af-.
ter being honoured with an audience of the
Imam in the morning, we were invited to wait
on Fakih Achmed in the afternoon, at ins coun
try feat, near Bir-el-Aßab. We were at the
fame time dehred to bring with us thofe curi-
ofities. which we had fhewn to Emir Farhan at
Loheya, and to feveral Arabs of diftindion in
other cities* Thofe rarities were only microfcopes^
telefcopes^ profped: glaifes,. therm.ometers, maps,
and other fach things. 1 did not chufe to produce
my matheiuatical iniiruments, ieil perhaps fome
Schech might perfuade the vizier to aik: them for
l^is ufe,

A. a a. 2. ^Tlic

4-02

nebuhr's travels

The vizier received us with great politeneß^
and expreffed himfelf highly pleafed with what
we fliewed him. He put various queftions to us^
from which he appeared to pofiefs confiderable
knowledge, and to have iludied the fciences with
a degree of care far from common among his coun-
trymen. By means of Turkifh, Perfian, and In-
dian merchants, he had acquired tolerably correal
notions of geography. The Arabians imagine
that Europe lies fouth from them., becaufe the
Franks w^hom they fee, come from India. But
the Fakih knew very well the lituation of the
different ftates of Europe, w-ith their refpedlive
powers and forces, both by fea and land. Nor
could more be expelled from an Arabian who
had never feen a map.

In the narratives of many voyages, vve had
read, that in the Eaft an inferior might not ap-
pear before a fuperior, without bringing a pre-
fent in his hand. Befides, we w^ere defirous of
returning the marks of politenefs which had
been fliewn us, and of exprefling our gratitude
for the entertainment we had received.

For thefe reafons, w^e refolved to take this
opportunity of offering our prcfent to the Im-
am and tlie Fakih ; fent to the latter fome pieces
of mechanifm, fuch as watches, and fome other
inftruments little known among the Arabs. We
fooa after learned^ that this was more than had

been

iN ARABIA, i^C,

34^

been expected at our hands, ünce, not being
inerchants, we had no favour to afii. All had
however been very graciouüy accepted. The
Turks regard the prefents of the Europeans aS
a tribute ; but at the court of Sana they appear
to be confidered in a diiTerent light.

The Vizier's country- houfe was not large»
It was even entirely open, upon one lide. A
number of fruit-trees grew in the garden. In
^he midfl: of it was a Jet d^eau, iimilar to that
which we had feen in the Imam's hall of audi-
ence. The water was put in motion, by being
raifed in a refervoir, by an afs and a man who
led him. Thujel d^emi v. as no ornament ; but
it cooled the air ; a thing very agreeable in hot
countries. W e faw others of the fame fort, in
the gardens of all the principal inhabitants of
Sana,

Chap. IV,

Of the City of Sana»

The city of Sana, is ütuate at the foot of mount
Nikkum, on which are ilill to be feen the ruins
of a caftle, which the Arabs fuppofe to have
fceen built by Shem. Near this mountain, Hands

tjie

4^4

J^IIBUHU'S TRAVELS

the cafile ; a rivulet runs upon the other fide ;
and near it, is the Buftan el MeHvoJikel, a fpa«-
cious garden, which was laid out by Imam Met-
wokkel, and has been embelliflied with a fine
garden, by the reigning Imam. The walls of
the city, which are built of bricks, exclude thia
garden, which is enclofed Mithin a v/aii of its
own. The city, properly fo called, is not very
extenfive : One may walk round it all in ai\
houro ^

I fliould have wiflied to make an accurate
ground-plan of this city. But, wherever I w^ent,
the mob crowded after me fo, that a furvey was
abfolutely impoflible. The city- gates are feven«
Here are a number of mofques, fome of which
have been built by Turkifli Pachas. Sana has,
the appearance of being more populous than
it actually is ; for gardens occupy a part of the
fpace within the walls. In Sana, are only
tvv^elve public baths : but many noble palaces,
three of the niofl: fpendid of which have been
built by the reigning Imam. The palace of the
late Imam El Manzor, with fome others, be-
long to the royal family^ who are very nu«.
merous.

The Arabian palaces are built in a ftyle of
architedure different from ours. The materials
are, ho ever, burnt bricks, and fometim.es even
hewn ftones^ but the houfes of the common

people*

405

people are of bricks which have been dried in
the fun. I faw no glafs windows, except in one
palace, near the citadel. The reil of the houfcg
have, inftead of windows, merely ihutters, which
are opened in fair weather, and fhut when it is
foul. In the laß: cafe, the houfe is lighed by a
tound wicket, fitted with a piece of Mufcovy
glafs ; fome of the Arabians, ufe fniaii panes of
ftained glafs from Venice,

At Sana, and in the other cities of the Eaft^
are great Simferas or caravanferas for merchants
mnd travellers. Each different commodity is
fold in a feparate market. In the market for
bread, none but women are to be feen ; and
their little fliops are portable. The feveral
claifes of mechanics work, in the fame m.anner,
in particular quarters in the open ftreet. Writers
go about with their defies, and make out brieves,
copy-books, and inilru^l fcholars in the art of
Vva'iting, all at the fame time. There is one
market, where old clothes are taken in exchange
for new.

Wood for the carpenter's purpofes is in ge-
neral extremely dear through all Yemen ; and
wood for the fire at Sana is no lefs fo. All the
hills near the city are bleak and bare, and
wood is therefore to be brought hither from
the dillance of three days journey ; and a ca-
mePs burthen commonly coils two crowns. Thi^

fcarcity

fcarcity of wood is particularly fupplied by theufe
of a little pit-coal. I have feen peats burnt here^
but thofe fo bad, that ftraw muft be intermixed
to make them burn.

Fruits are, however, very plenteous at Sana.
Here are more than twenty different fpccies of
grapes, which, as they do not all ripen at the
the fame time, continue to afford a delicious
xefrefliment for feveral months. The Arabs
likewife preferve grapes, by hanging them up
in their cellars, and eat them almoil through
the whole yean The Jews make a little wine^
and might make more, if the Arabs were not
fuch enemies to itrong liquors. A Jew convided
of conveying wine into an Arab^s houfe is fevere-
]y punifhed ; nay, the Jews muß: even ufe great
caution, in buying and felling it among them-
feives. Great quantities of grapes are dried here ;
and the exportation of raiiins from Sana is con-
iiderable. One fort of thefe grapes are without
flones, and contains only a foft grain, the pre-
fence of which is not perceptible in eating the
railin.

In the caflle, v/hich ftands on a hill, are tw^
palaces. I faw about it fome ruins of old build»
ings, but, notwithftanding the antiquity of the
place, no remarkable infcriptions. There is the
mint, and a range of prifons for perfons of diffe-
rent ranks. The reigning Imam refides in the

city;

IN ARABIA, l£c.

4Ö7

city ; but feveral princes of the blood-royal live
in the caftle. I was conducted to a battery, as
the mofl elevated place about thefe buildings ;
and there I met with what I had no expedla-
tion of, a German mortar, with this infcription,
Jorg Selos Gofmick, 15 13. I faw alfo, upon
the fame battery, feven iron cannons, partly bu-
ried in the fand, and partly fet upon broken
Carriages. Thefe feven fmall cannons, with fix
others, near the gates, which are fired to an-
nounce the return of the different feftivals, are
gll the artillery of the capital of Yemen.

Chap. V.

Of the country around Sana^

The fuburb of Bir el AJfah is nearly adjoining
to the city upon the eaft fide. The houfes of
this village are fcattered through the gardens,
along the bank of a fmall river. Two leagues
northward from Sana is a plain, named Rodda^
which is overfpread with gardens, and watered
by a number of rivulets. This place bears a
great refemblance to the neighbourhood of Da-
mafcus. But Sana, which fom.e ancient authors
compare to Damafcus, (lands on a rifmg groundy
with nothing like florid vegetation about it.
VoLoL Bbb After

niebuhr's travels

After long rains, indeed, a fmall rivulet ram
through the city ; but all the ground is dry,
through the reft of the year. However, by
aqueduds from mount Nikkum, the town and
caille of Sana are, at all times, fuppÜed with
abundance of excellent frefh water.

Jews are not permitted to live in the city of
Sana, They live by themfeives in a village,
nanied Kaa el Ihud, fituate near Bir el Affah
Their number amounts to two thoufand. But^
in Yemen, they are treated even more contempt-
uoufly than in Turkey, Yet, the beß: artifans
in Arabia are Jews ; efpecially potters and
goldfmiths, who come to the city, to work in
their little iliops by day, and in the evening re-^.
tire to their village.

Thofe Jews carry on a confiderable trade.
One of the moft eminent merchants among them^
named Oroeki, gained the favour of two fuccef-
iive Im^am's, and was for thirteen years, in the
reign of El Manfor, and for fiftcjen years under
the prefent Imam, comptroller of the cuftoms
and of the royal buildings and gardens ; one of^
the moft honourable offices at the court of Sana,
Two years before our arrival here, he had fal-
len into difgrace, and was not only imprifoned^
but obliged to pay a fine of 50,000 crowns.
Fifteen days before we arrived at Sana, the Imam
liaa let him at liberty. He was a venerable oId_

m ARABIA, &C, 40^

man, of great knowledge : and although lie had
received the Imam's permiffion, had never
chofen to alTume any other drefs than that com-
monly worn among his countrymen. The
young Jew, who had been our fervant, was one
of his relations, and had mentioned us fo fa-
vourably to him, that he conceived a defire to
fee us. But we durfl not hold frequent inter-
courfe with a man fo nawly releafed out of
prifon.

The difgrace of Oroeki had drawn a degree
of perfecution upon the reft of the Jews. At
that period, the government ordered four-
teen fynagogues, which the Jews had at Sana,
to be demolifhed. In their village are as hand-
fome houfes as the beft in Sana. Of thofe houfes
like wife all above the height of fourteen fathoms
was demolifhed, and the Jews were forbidden
to raife any of their buildings above this height
in future. All the ftone pitchers in which the
inhabitants of the village had ufed to keep their
wines were broken. In fhort, the poor Jews
fufFered mortifications of all forts.

The Banians, in Sana, are reckoned to be a~
bout 125. They pay 300 crowns a-month for
permiffion to live in the city : Whereas the po-
pulous village of Kaa el Ihud pays only 125
crowns a-month. The heirs of a deceafed Ba-
nian are obliged to pay from 40 to 50 crowns :

B b b 2 And

niebukk's travels

And, if the defundl leaves no near relations in
Yemen, his whole property devolves to the I-
mam. The Banians told us, that two men of
their nation had been dragged to prifon two
months before, and, before they could obtain
their liberty, were forced to yield up 1500
crowns of an inheritance which had fallen to
them in India, and of which they had touched
BO part in Arabia. ,

Chap. VL

The Pomp of the Imams Return from the Mcfque,

It is well known, that the Turkifli Sultan goes
every Friday to the mofque. The Imam ob-
ferves the fame pious cuilom with the fame ex-
a^tnefs, and goes and comes upon the occafion in
a very pompous manner. We faw him only re-
turning from the mofque, when his train is faid
to be fwelied by all thofe who have performed
their devotions at other mofques. The better
to difplay his magnificence, he makes a long
circuitous progrefs at his return.

The Imam, upon the occafion when we faw
liim, came out of the principal mofque, and
palTed out by one gate of the city, that he might
come in by another, with fome hundreds of fol-

dicrs^.

m ARABIA, k^Ci 4ii

dierSj marching in procefiion before liici. — ^
Over him, and the princes of his numerous fa-
mily, Medallas, or large parafols, were borne • a
diftindlion peculiarly appropriated to the fover-
eign and the princes of the biood-royal. We
were told, that in other parts of Yemen, all the
independent nobility, fach as the fherifte of Abu
Arifch, the Schiechs of Jafa, and of Hafchid-u-
Bekil, conftantly difplay this mark of their in-
dependence.

Beiide the princes of the blood, there were in
this procefiion at leafl: fix hundred noblemen,
ecclefiaftics and officers, civil and military, all
fuperbiy mounted upon horfes ; and a vafl
crowd of people followed on foot. On each iide
of the Imam was borne a ftandard, having upon
it a fmall filver box filled with amulets, whofe
efficacy was imagined to render him invincible.
This procefiion v/as, in fiiort, magnificent, but
diforderly. The riders paced or galloped, at
pleafure, and all went on in confufion.

Near a gate were fi;ationed fome pairs of camels
bearing carriages, in v/hich fome of the Imam's
wives often ride upon fuch occafions : But the
carriages were ät this time empty, and ferved
only to fill up the procefiion. Behind the ca-
m.els, v/hich bore thefe, vrere tu^elve others,
bearing nothing but fome fmall flags, fixed, by
way of ornam.ent, to their faddlcs.

Th€

niebuhr's travels

The foldiers fired a few rounds without the
gate, but not lefs awkwardly than in the other
cities of Yemen. In their evolutions before the
palace, they fhewed no greater dexterity than
the provincial troops which we had feen perform
their exercifes under the Dolas. The city gates
were fhut during divine fervice.

Chap. VIL

Our Audience of taking Leave,

X HE favourable reception we had met with at
Sana, which was above our expectations, might
have tempted us to flay longer. Many of the
principal men about the Imam's court urged us
to fpend another year in Yemen. But we had loft
two of our companions, w^ho could have availed
themfelves more than we of a continued ftay in
Arabia. Some inftances, too, of the Imam's ava-
rice, which had come to our knowledge, added
to what we had experienced in thofe cafes in
which we had been embroiled with the Dolas^
imprefied us with a degree of diftruft, and made
us fear that our prefent good treatment m.ight
end in a very different manner. We had, be-
fides, found the clim.ate hurtful to our conilitu-
tions, and our health was much injured by the

changing'

IN ARABIA, Ifc. 413

changing temperature of the atmofpliere. "W^
therefore began to think feriouüy of failing for
India with the Englifh, that vre might fare our
lives and papers.

We had permifFion to leave Sana whenever v/e
fhould think proper ; but it wa? required that
vre fnould take a formal leave of the Imam, and
fhew him the curioiities vrhich the Vizier had
feen ; a circumil^nce which obliged us to defer
our jouj'ney for iome days.

We were fent for to Court on the 23d of July,
and ccnducled into the fame hall in which the
Imam had received us at our lormer audience.
Upon this fecoiid occiifion, every thing paired
very quietly. The Imam fat on the lowed,
bench beiide the thx'one, upon a chair wrought
of reeds.. We kilTed the hem of his robe, and
both fides of his hand. Nobody vras prefent but
the Vizier, the fecretary, by whom v\'e had been
condu.cled into the pretence, and fix or feven
üaves or fervants. None cf our fervants were
permitted to accompany us ; as the Vizier-
thought us qualified to exprefs curfelves in the
language of the country. All that w^e fnewed
the Imam feemed to pleafe him highly ; and
both he and his miniiler put many queflioriS to
lis concerning the manners, trade, and learning
of the Europeans. A fmall cheft of medicines^,
"^^hich the Imam had received from au'Englifn^

4^4

niebuhr's travels

man, was then brougbtin, Mr Cramer was afk-
ed to explain the virtues of thofe drugs ; and the
Imam caufed what he faid, concerning their na-
ture, to be taken down in writing.

1 had been indifpofed when I came out to
wait on the Imam ; and, in confequcnce of
fianding fo long, I felt myfelf fo weak, that I
v/as obliged to alle permiffion to retire. Before
the door I found fome of the firft officers in the
court, fitting on piles of ftones along the wall.

The Great Chamberlain, Gbeir AUah^ with
whom I had often had occafion to fpeak, imme-
diately made me an offer of his feat, and ga~
thered ftones to make himfelf another. In this
company I was again addreifed with a number
of queilions concerning the manners and cuitoms
of Europe. Thofe Arabs ilrongly diiapproved
of our pradice of drinking fpiritous hquors.
But when I aiTored them that the Chriilians
xvere forbidden to indulge in drunkennefs, • and
that no feofible European drank more wine ti.aii
was good for his health, they allowed the cuf-
torn to be rational. They even acknowledged
that it was abfurd to abilain entirely from the
life of a liquor of which they had fuch abun-
dance, and which, on many occafions, might
prove falutary as a remedy,

I returned into the hall ; and, after Mr Gra-
zner had fini&ed his account of the drugs, and

IN ARABIA, l^C,

li'fe liad anfvvered various other qiieftions, we
took our leave with the fame ceremonies which
we had obferved at entering. In the afternoon^
we went to take leave of Vizier Fakih Achmed^
and fome other perfons of diftindion.

Chap. VIIL
■ Our Departure from Sana^

'W^E had, indeed, good reafons to induce iis to
return to Mokha, by the fame way by which
we had come. It is better frequented ; and up-
on it I. ihould have had an opportunity of copy-
ing the infcriptions of which the Arabs had fpo-
ken to me : But I had been fo often deceived
already by ilories of pretended antiquities, that
to the uncertain hopes which thofe infcriptions
held out to rnc, I preferred the certain advan-
tage of furveying another part of Yemen, and of
feeing the Teham.a in the rainy feafon. We ac-
quainted the Vizier, therefore, that we wiflied
to travel by Mofhak to Beit el Fakih. He not
only approved of our intention, but told us, that
the Imam would fupply us with camels and aff-
es for our journey.

. On the 25th of July, the Imam fent each of
ü§ a complete fait of clothes, Vv^ith a letter to the
G c c Dola

niebuh'rs travi:1's

Dola of Mokha to pay us two hundred crown^p
as a farewell prefent. We were at firft afraid
that this prince might fuppofe us to have come^,
like the Turks, to draw money from him, or
that w^e had made our prefents with interefted
views. But, after refleding that we had been
oViiged to ranfom ourfelves, in a manner, at -
Mokha, vre refolved to accept that letter of
credit. Whe n w e a fterwards prefented it to
the Dola, he fent us to receive the money from
his Saraf, ,ox banker, who paid us by inflal-
nients, but never without an air of diiTatisfac-
tion.

We could hardly think the Vizier ferious in
his offer, when he told us that the Imam would
farnifn us with beads of burthen. We were
even afraid that this might be an arrangement
to delay our journey^ and v/ould rather have
hired camels at our own expence. We there-
upon came to an explanation with the fe-
cretary, whofe anfwers led us to fufpect an
interefted underftanding between him, and
the Arabian camel-hirer, or poft-mafter.

We therefore ventured to addrefs the Vizier
again. He fhewed Jurprife at our perplexity;
becaufe he had delivered to the fecretary a writ-
ten order, figned by the Imam's own hand, in
vrhicli he v/as directed to furnifh us with camels

and

I,.N. ARABIA, l^C

417

arid aifes for our whole journey, and with a
ilieep for our proviiions. The fecretary, on aq-
count of our impatience to depart, had not had
time to bargain for a ihare of the profits with
the camel-drivers, and was obliged to deliver
up the written order, vdih fome pieces of ftuff'
which the Imam had fent us for clothes to our
fervants. He gave us alfo notice, that fome o'
ther prefents were intended us,, which could not
be ready till after a certain number of hours.
We fet out without them, and the fecretary pro-
bably kept them to himfelf.

The drefs which I received from the. Imam^
w^as exactly like that worn by the Arabs of dif-
tindiion through Yemen. They wear the fliirt,
over wide drawers, of cotton- cloth. The Jam-
hea, a fort of crooked cutlafs, hangs by a broad
girdle ; and a veil with ilrait ileeves is covered,,
by a üoiving gown. The Arabs are fl rangers to
the ufe of ftockings. The only thing they wear,
on their feet is a fort of iialf boots, or ilippers.

The Turks, appear to abufe the generous hof-
pitality v^ith which the Imam treaty flrangers
travelling through his dominions. Poor pil-
grims of that nation. often come from Jidda, are
entertained for months at Sana, and then ail^
money to defray the expences of their journey
home. The Imam even orders a fum of m.oney
tQ be paid them in fome of his fea-port towns,
C c G that.

kiebuhr's travels

that they may return no more to be farthet
chargeable to lo hofpitable a people.

Within a fliort time after our arrival, a Turkj>
•who had attended his mailer, an Egyptian noble«^
urian, to Mecca, came by the way of Jidda and
Hodeida to Sana, in hopes of obtaining inilant-
iy one of the iirft pofts in the Imam's army : for
the Turks have fo high an idea of their own mi-
litary talents, that they fuppofe it v/ould be too
great a happinefs to the Arabs to be able to en«'
gage a Turkiih officer in their fervice. But the
Imam, after entertaining this man fome time at
Sana, fent him to Hodeida, and ordered him a
fum of money fufficient to carry him to Bafra»
On my return from India, I met with this fame
Turk, who had performed the voyage in a vet
fcl belonging to Maflcat, and had found it not
more dangerous than the paffage between Jidda
and Hodeida.

SECTION-

4m.

SECTION XV.

■QIJR RETURN FROM SANA TO MOKHAa

Chap. L

Route from Sana to Beit el Fakik*

On the 26th of July, the day of our departure
from Sana, we made a fliort ftage along a. bad
road among bare hills, with few villages inter-
fperfed over them. Next day, the road was Hill
worfe, lying over rocky mountains. This wes
the moft rugged road I faw in all Yemen. The
hills were bleak and wild, and the deep vallies
among them contained only a fev/ wretched
hamlets.

On the 28th of July, we proceeded down fteep
declivities. But the hills began now to difplay
a fmall fhare of verdure : And we here met with
feveral camels, loaded with very bad wood, for
Sana= The towns were poor and thinly fcatter-

cd.

cd. In the evening, we were attacked by legi;-,
ons of locufts ; but thefe were foon driven awaj
by a violent ftorm of wind, accompanied by hta-
vy rain.

Wq travelled, this day, onward to Mofhak, a
fmall town iituate on the funimit of a precipi-
tous hill. The houfes in which travellers lodge
ftand at the foot of the hill. V/e prefented the
Imam's written order to the Dola of this city,
who accordingly furnilhed us with camels, pro-
vender, a good meal for our fervants, a fheep ,
for our own fupper, and even paid for our lod-
ging. The revenue of Mof hak, and the territory
annexed to it^ is enjoyed by one qf the Imam'g
fpns.

Our next day's journey was upon a ftill more
difagreeable road, Nothing can be worfe, in-
deed, than the roads between Mof hak and Se-
ban. Upon the hill we found fix large refer-»
voirSj in which rain-water is colle6led. It be-
comes putridj after {landing for fome time, and,
is then very difagreeable. In this country the
Arabs believe they have moil to fear from the
worm in the nerves. If it be fo^ the caufe mull
ly in their, drinking that putrid water.

Leaving Sehan on the 30th of July, we conti-
mied our journey upon fomewhat better roads
which winded round the hills. Upon Harras^
one of thofe hills^ we came to a defile fo narrow,

that

IN ARAEIA, He, ' -42'!

'^liat a lingle camel could hardly pafs. On ei-
ther fide are fieep rocks ; and rain, v/hich had
fallen on the preceding day, had broken a gap
eight feet deep, precifely in the narrowefl part
of this road, and made it abfolutely impaflahle.
There was no other palTage ; and all our Arabs
were of opinion that we Ihould return ftraight
to Sana, and take the road by Tacss : But v/e
W'C were unwilling to turn fo far about, and
therefore refolved to fill up the gap with fconeSo
Our Arabs laughed to hear us propofe an under--
taking which they fuppx)fed would give us work
for feveral days. But we began to gather iloneSj,
-and by promifes prevailed with th
Three hou¥s of hard work completed our cauie-
Vvay, and we palfed fäfe over. The Arabs
maintained, that, in fuch a cafe, the firfl Doia
of Yemen would rather have returned to Sana^
than have undertaken what we had accomplifu-
€d. This gave no favoürable impreffion of the
fpirit or induilry of the nation.

On our Vv^ay, we met with a wandering fami-
ly, the firfc of this charader that I fav/ in Ye-
men. They had no tents, but lived under trees
with their alfes, iheep, dogs, and fowls. I for-
got to afK: the name of this liorde. But their
mode of life is perfeöly like that of our Euro^
pean gypfies. They are confined to no place^
but go about the villages begging and Healing ;

and

Und the poor peafants often give tliem fomelhing
Voluntarilv, to remove them from their neiffh-
boiirhood. A young girl of this company came
to afl^ ahns from us : Her face was uncovered,

(FF)

At a fmall diiiance from the dangerous pafs
above mentioned, we faw the ürfl: plantation of
fcoffee-trees. \¥ e had feen none of thefe fince
our excuriions in the month of May ; but this
produdion does not appear to enrich thofe by
Tvhom it is here cultivated. The villages in the
k::ofFee-country are declining into a Hate of
wretched poverty : The houfes coiifift of dry
walls, covered v^ith feeds, and refemble thofe of
the hills about Beit el Fakih and Dfobla. The
river Sehan vv^as fo fwoln that v^e had diffieultj
in paffing it v/ith our aßes»

We fpent the night at Smnfiir^ a poor village
wehere I lofl: my compafs. In the morning, we
found oürfelves obliged to pafs^ more than a do-
zen of times in the fpace of a mile, over the ri«
ver Sehan, which runs with a meandering
courfe, amortg rocks, and with a very rapid cur-=
rent. Tills country being, very poor, the roads
are not exceedingly fafe, and we were therefore
obliged to travel fiowly, without going before
our baggage. We faw here many.fiirubs of the
fiiecies which affords the balfam of Mecca ; but

: the.

IN A RAE I A, l^C.

4^3

tile inhabitants of the country know not their
value, and therefore negled: to cultivate them.

In the coffee- houfe of Til we met with feveral
pilgrims returning from Mecca ; among others
an Arab from Boan, a city five-ancl-twenty days
journey eaft from Sana, and twelve days jour-
ney from Kerchin ; confequently, in a country
entirely unknown to Europeans : I was vexed at
the fliort time of our interview ; and the great
difference between the dialedl which he fpoke^
and that of Tehama, which difqualified me from
obtaining from him more particular informatiou
concerning his country.

From this inn the country improvei. It is
covered with verdure. In the valley area num-
i)er of rivulets which difcharge themfelves int®
the river Sehan ; and a gteat inany villages ar6
fcattered over the hills.

We faw a rivulet v/hich lofes itfelf under
ground, and appears again at a conliderable dif-
tance. After leaving the hills, it difappears en-
tirely, and its waters are difperfed over the plains
of the Tehama. The arable grounds among thefe
hills are fown only with durra, a fort of coarfe
millet, of which the poorer people make their
bread. The peafants cut out feats in the trees^
and fit in thefe to watch their fields.

The rocks cn the confines of the Teharna ard
bafaltic, like thofe of the coffee-country near

Vol. II. D d d Biet

4^4 niebühr's travels

Eeit el Fakih. We came yet to another rivulet
which lofes itfelf in the fands of the Tehama.
At lail we reached the plain, and arrived at Beit
tl Fakih in the evening of the ift of Auguft.

ClIAP. II.

Route from Beit el Fakih to Mokhä.

1 HE greater part of this city having been buriit
down in the month of .April lafl, we had e:^:-
pedled to find it defolate. We were, therefore^
greatly furprifed to fee all the houfes, or rather
huts, rebuilt. Several edifices of flone,' fitter to
refift the force of fire, had likewife been raifed»

We fent notice to the Dola of our arrival, and
deiired him to haVe camels in readinefs, on
Vi^hich we might continue our journey. Our
Arabian fervants would have demanded provi-
lions from him, that they might make merry,
and ßiew the people in what an honourable man-
ner they were received.

I fliall now only mention fome changes pro-
duced by the rains upon this part of the coun-
T y. Indeed, as we had already feen the face
' ' the country, we preferred travelling by night

this time, to avoid fuffering from the torrid
I t^ats of the day.

Having

IN ARABIA, bV, 425

Kaving fet out from Beit el Fakili on the
evening of the 2d of A^uguft, we met with two
men, on our way to Zebid, who were leading
aßes loaded chiefly with ßlver, ^vhich had been
received by the merchants from Egypt, for
coffee, and which they were fending to Mokha,
to purchafe India goods. This mode of car-
i7ing money about, was a proof to us, that
in this province there Were no fears from rob-
bers.

On the 3d of Auguft,, the Dola of Zebid was
obliged to furnifli us with provißons and ca-
mels. We had expeded to find the river Zebid,
confiderably fwoln ; but, near the city, its chan-
nel was entirely dry; the waters having been
turned oif, to overflow a great extent of the
adjacent fields which v/ere furrounded by dykes.
It fliouid feem that the waters are not fufiered.
to run in the channel of the river, till after they
have been plentifully diflributed over tlie coun-
try. The peafants confl:rucl their dykes in a
very Ample manner. After plowing up a field,
they yoke a plank of wood to tvvo oxen, lead
thefe over the field, till the plank is loaded with
earth, empty it upon the Ihie where the
dyke is to be drawn, and repeat this till it is.
formed. Wg. flopped to refl: for a few hours at
Maiijchid, and on the morning of the 5th of Au^.
guft arrived at Mokha.

42.6 NIEBÜHr's TRAVELS

We had been extremely earnefl to return to
this city, left the Englifh fhip in which we in-=
tended to fail for India, might be gone before
pur arrival. But, feveral circumftances happened
to detain that vellel fome time longer at Mokha :
And we foon felt that we had travelled too
haftily in that fultry climate. I fell ill on the
8th of Auguft : Mr Baurenfeind' was confined
to his bed, within a few days after : and in a^-
fncrt time, Mr Cramer likewife, and all our
European fervants. We fortunately found our
friend Mr Scott ftill here, who kindly fupplied
as with European rcfrefliments, which did us
more fervice than we could have received from
the ufe of the beft medicines. But all his friend-
ly cares could not remove the lurking diftemper
which fopn afterwards broke out witli renewed
violence, and deprived me of all my remaining
fellow-travellers y as I fhall relate in the propei;
place^

€ha?. Ill

Of the citj of Mohha.

This city Hands in a very dry and barren lita-
ation. Its fortifications are the walls which fur-
round itj fome towers on the way to Mufa^

• whicl^

m ARABIA, ^r.

4-X

^^hicli are dignified with the name of caflles,
and two other caftles of the fame fort, upon the
two arms of the harbour. The greatefl: of thefe
two caftles is called KaHa Tejar, and the fmall-
eft, KaHa Ahdurrab, from the. names of two
faints, buried in thefe two places. Thej are
provided with fome few pecies of cannon«

The houfes in the city ard built of ftone ; and
fome are handfome, in the ftyle of thofe of the
fuburb of Sana, However, there are others
both within and without the walls, no better
than the huts common through all the TehamSo
In the environs of this city are abundance of
date-trees and many agreeable gardens.

Mokha is not an ancient city. It was built a-
bout four centuries fince. It, like many other
cities in the Tehama, owes its origin to a faint,
the celebrated Schech Sdmdeli, This Scheck
acquired at that period fo great a reputation,
that perfons eagerly reforted from the moft dif--
tunt countries to receive his inftru6lions. Some
of his devout difciples built huts round his her-
mitage, which ftood on the fea-fide. A fmall
village arofe on this fpot, and was by degrees
enlarged into a city. Hitherto its hiftory re-
fembles that of the other cities in the Tehama.
But, the rife of Mokha was attended with many
peculiar circumfiances, which deferve to be
mentioned^ as they are related by the Arabs;

Y^'hofe

KIEBUH^RS TRAVELS,

v/hofe accounts feems to be founded in truth,
aithough dallied with a little of the mai;vel-
I0US5 in the ufaal tafte of the Arabian nation.

A fliip bound from India to Jidda^ caft an-
chor, one day, about four hundred years fincej
in thefe latitudes. The crew obferving a hut
in the defert, had the curiofity to go and fee it.
The Schech gave thofe ftrangers a kind recep-
tion, and regaled them with coflfee, of which he
was very fond himfelf, and to which he afcrib-
ed great virtues. The Indians who were unac-
quainted with the ufe of coffee, thought that this
hot liquid, might cure the mailer of their fiiip^
who was iiL^ Schcedeli affured them, that, not
only ßiould he be cured by the efficacy of his
prayers, and of the coffee, but that if they
would land their cargo there, they might difpof^-
of it to confiderable advantage, Aifuming at
the fame time the air and tone of a prophet^
he told them that a city fliould one day, be
built upon that fpot, v/hich w^as to become aa,
eminent mart of the Indian trade.

The merchant to whom the velTel belonged,
being ilruck with this lingular language, went
on iliore, to fee and converfe with this extraordi-,
nary man. He drank the coffee prefcribed by
the prophet, and found himfelf better. On the
fame day a great number of Arabs came to hear
the preacher in his hermitage. Among them.

were feveral merchants, who purchafed the
whole cargo. The Indian returned home well
pleafed, and fpread the fame of the holy Schsede-
ii, fo that the place was foon frequented by ma-
ny of his countrymen.

An elegant mofque was raifed upon the tomb
of Schech Schaedeli, which ftands without the
walls of the prefent city. The well from which
'the common people draw water for drinking,
and one of the city gates, bear his name. His
defcendents are held in honour, and enjoy the
title of Schech. The people fweär by him.
The name of Shaedeli will be remembered as
long as Mokha ftands,

Befides, Schaedeli is not only the patron of
Mokha ; but all the Mufulmans who drink cof-
fee mention him every morning in their Pratha^
or prayer, and efleem him aifo as their patron*
They invoke him not, but thank God for hav-
ing taught m.ankind the ufe of coffee, through
the mediation of Schaedeli, and implore the fa-
vour of heaven on the Schechs, his defcendents

A merchant of Mecca made an obfeivation
upon thofe faints, which I was furprifed to hear
from a Mahometan. The vulgar, faid he, muft
always have a vifible objed to fear and honour.
Thus, at Mecca, oaths, inflead of being addref-
fed to God, are pronounced in the name of Ma-
homet. At Mokhaj I would not truft a man

who

43^ NIFBUHr's TRAVEli

who fhould take God to witnefs the truth of an^-
thing he happened to aflert : but I might much
more fafely depend upon him who fliould fwear
by Schech Schaedeli, whofe mofque and tomti
are before their eyes.

Mokha was the lall city in Yemen of
which the Turks retained poffeffion. It is faid
that the Arabs did not conquer, but buy it.
Since the Turks were difpoflelTed, it has never
iiad another mafter than the Imam,

A Dola having enriched himfelf in his govern^
nient, had fortified the city^ and drawn a trench
round it, which is now filled up. . He was fuf~
pedled of an intention to make himfelf independ-
ent ; but his views were fruftrated, and himfelf
call into prifon. From that time, a Dola has
never been continued above three years in this
lucrative government. After the monfoon fea«
fon, the Dola of Mokha is every year obliged
to give an account of his adminiftration, and i^
then either confirmed in his employment, or in-
ilantly recalled to Sana.

I know not whether the Chriftians of the EafI
liave ever fettled at Mol<ha. A good many Jews
live here, in a feparate village, as in the other
cities of Yemen. Here are nearly feven hundred
Banians, Rajaputs^ and other Indians, fome of
whom are merchants, and others earn their live-
lihood by exercifing different mechanic arts.

When

IN APLASIA, \£c, 431

When they have made a fiiiall fortune, thev
commonly return home to India : And on
this account are always looked uDon as ilran-^
gers.

Chap. IV.

Bomhardme?2t of Alokha by the French.

1 could learn nothing of the hidory of this city|
except one event, which happened five and twen-
ty years nnce. I relate the circumiiances of
this tranfaclion, as they were recounted to me by
the Arabs ; for they will ferve to give an idea
of the power and policy of the Imam,

The Dola of Mokha often purchafes out of
the fhips from India, goods, of which the value
amounts to more than the fum due for cuuom-
houfe duties and other taxes. He takes thofe
goods upon the Imam's account, and always pro-
mifes to deducl the debt out of the duties which
may become due next year. But he continues,
year after year, to take new goods to account,
and the debt is thus increafed, and ftill remains
unpaid. By dealing for fome time in this man-
ner, the French Eaft India Company at length

fv.und the Imam 82,000 crowms in their debt.
VOL.L Eee , Thh

432

NIEBUHR's tRAVELS

This Company became at lail anxious to ob-
tain payment of fo confiderable a debt, with-
out lofing, ho\Vever, their trade with Mokha ;
and therefore^ in the year 1738, fent a man of
war to efcort their merchant fliips. The cap-
tain, upon his arrival, acquainted the Dola, that
they were come to fell their cargo, but would
not land or fend their goods on Ihore, till his
debt to them ftiould be difcharged. The Dola
ilrove to amufe them with fine fpeeches, and to
perfuade them to land their goods. But the
French, to fliew what they could do, rendered
the caftle unfit for defence^ by a few difcharges
of their great guns, before the Arabs wxre aware
that they intended real hoftilities.

After this exploit, the conferences were re«
newed. The Dola Hill excufed himfelf, and
faid that he had no money, and no orders from
the Imam to pay the debt, but aUced fifteen
days refpite, till he faould receive orders from
Sana. Fifteen days expired, and no orders were
received. The French then difcharged a bomb
upon the Dola's houfe, by which an Arab was
killed. But this producing no decifive efFedSj,
fome other bornbs were thrown upon the mofquCy
upon a Friday, while the Dola was within, and
by thefe were feveral perfons killed.

The citizens, of whom a good number had by
this time loft their life for their fovereign'3 debt,

no^V

I.H ARABIA, i^C, ^ 433

llQ„w. loft patience, aod obliged the governor to
take meafures to fatisfy his creditors. A treaty
was accordingly concluded ; and the French
landed their goods, and continued their trade as
before. Of all their crew, they loft only one
man, who had happened to fall afleep before
the door of his lodging in the town. An Ara-
bian foldier ftabbed himin revenge for the death
of a relation of his, who had been killed by a
bomb-ftiot.

The Dola was unable to make farther relift-
^nce ; and had undoubtedly done all that was
in his power to ferve his mafter. The Imam
was, however, diflatisfied, recalled him, and
coniifcated his palace at Sana. A merchant of
Mokha, who had advanced a large fmn to fatif-
fy the demands of the French, had not received
payment, even at the time when we were there.

Several of the Arabs ftill recoiled this little
affair with pleafure, and remember, with a de-
gree of gaiety, thofe pots of fire, as they called
them to me^ wl-.ch purfued their Bola back-
wards and forwards^ wherever he Vv^ent. Since
that time the Arabs have entertained a high o~
pinion of the military talents of the Europeans^
In any Turkifti city, no Chriftians, of whatever
nation, could have been fafe from the fury of
the populace during fuch hoftilities. But, at
E e e 2 Mokha,

434

nieeuhr's travels

Mokha, the Englifh and Dutch remained ii^ p,er<»
fed fecurity during this war with the French^
(gg)

Cmap. V.

Of the Trade of Molha,

Several nations formerly traded to this port^
which now frequent it no more. The Portu-
guefe, w^ho were, two centuries ago, very
powerful on the Arabic Gulph, have long fince
ceafed to fend fnips hither. The Butch rarely
appear here ; and the French never in time of
w^ar, although they fall continue to rent ware-
lioufes here. The Engiifh at prefent engrofs,
almoft excluiively, the trade of this place. Their
Eafl: India Company, indeed, fend only one
vefiel hither in two years, to take in a cargo of
coffee. But the trade is fo much the more ad-
vantageous to private merchants fettled in India.
In this year there had come five Engliili fhips
from different ports in India, not to mention
three others which proceeded ilraight to Jidda.
Since the time when an Engliüi m.erchant reh -
dent at Mokha, v/as maltreated by the populace
in the abfence of the fiiips, the Engiifh have al-
ways returned with their veifels to India, and

left

IN ARABIA, l^-C, 435

left the management of their affairs, during
their abfence, to a Banian.

Since the trade of Mokh a is fo conliderable
the cuftoms cannot but afford a large revenue to
the Imam. The Turks, Arabs, and Indians are
obliged to carry their goods ftraight to the caf-
tom-houfe, to be there infpedled, and to pay
eight or ten per cent, upon their value, at the ar-
bitrary eftimation of the cuilom-houfe officers.
All Europeans enjoy the privilege of having their
goods infpeded in their ovv^n warehoufes, and of
paying only three per cent, upon their value.
Since the Englifli have become fo powerful in
Bengal, and have imported thofe goods vvhich
were formerly fiirnifhed by the Indians, they
have been required to pay only three per cent.
But the government continue to obfervc their
treaties, and yet to maintain their ancient riglus?
by making the merchants in Moldia pay likeu'ife
five per cent, on all Indian goods wiiich they
purchafe.

Befide the duties payable at the cuftomhoufe,
fhips pay another duty under the name of
chorage, which amounts to fome hundreds of
crowns, and is regulated, not by the tonnage of
the veffel, but by the number of its mafts. On
the other hand, a merchant, who lades a large
European fliip v»^ith coffee in this port, receives

from

43Ö NIEBUHR-S TRAVELS,

from the Dola a premium of four hundred
crowns.

According to the obfervation of the Arabians^
the monfoons are regular in thefe latitudes. The
north wind blows for ßx months, and the fouth
wind for other fix months. It is not to be fup-
pofed, however, that thefe are the only winds
known here. During the month of Auguft, e-
fpecially^ the wind blows from all the points in-
the horizon. An Englifh fhip bound for Jidda
.was obliged to return to Mokha, and to wait
there fome months for a favourable wind.

The Arabs have fcarcely any article for ex-
portation, except coöee, of which the Indians
^^enot very fond. The Englifh fhips mull re-
turn empty to India^ if they did not gain conü»
derably by carrying money, with which the A-
rabian merchants entruft them, Thefe mer-
chants had freighted one Englifh veflel from Jid-
da, with a million of crowns ; and that on
board which we failed^, had 250,000 crowns of
theirs in fpecie.

Thefe furas are almoft always in European
coins, Venetian ducats, or German coins. It
may be fuppofed that other Englifh and Indian
vefTels carry alfo confiderable fums from Jidda
and Mokha. The fliips which fail from Bafra
to India, are in the fame manner freighted w^ith

money

'm ARABIA, ^C.

437

money which has pafled from Europe through
Turkey. When to this we add the quantity of
fpecie carried diredly to India and China by the
nations of Europe, it appears that Europe muft
have been long iince exhaufted of gold and lii-
ver, were it not for the treafures imported from
America,

When a foreign velTel arrives in the road of
Mokha, it muft not falute with guns, but only
hoift a flag. The Dola then fends out a boat to
examine it, and learn the purpofe of its ap-
proach. If any difficulties are raifedj the cap-
tain needs only fay, that he will proceed toHo-
deida or Loheya. The Dola, unwilling to lofe
the prefents which he receives from every fhip^
is foon brought by this means to hear reafon.

It would not be difficult for any other nation
to obtain the fame privileges which the Engliih
prefently enjoy at Mokha. But the trade on
the cbafts of the Red Sea can be advantageous
to no nation who have not fettlements in India.
The Arabians m.ake no ufe of the produöionsof
Europe. It w^ould be neceffary, therefore, to
fupply them w^itli India goods, and to take cof-
fee in return, which can be bought cheaper
from Ihips which take it in merely to avoid re-
turning empty. There is, indeed, a great quan-
tity of iron fold in Arabia, which the Englifn
purchafe chiefly from the Danes. It is, there-

forCj

ni£buhr's travels

fore, probable, that the latter nation might find
their intereft in a dired trade with the goods of
Denmark, and our colonies between Tranque-
bar and Mokha.

It will not be amifs to add one flight obferva-
tion concerning the brokers of difierent nations.
A flranger cannot be too much on his guard a-
g-ainft Mahometan brokers. He will find his ac-

o

count in addrefiins; himfelf rather to the Banians
among whom are many confiderable merchants,
very honeft nien» Through all the countries in
the Eafl:, Mahometan merchants have the knave-
ry to feek to irritate the Chriftians, when, after
having duped them, they fear their reientment :
And then, when any term of reproach is uttered
"by the ftrangers in the heat of pafilon, the raf-
cally MuiTülmans make a great noife, under pre-
tence that their religion is abufed, and threaten
to complain to the magiftrates. Several Euro-
peans have been obliged to pay confiderable fums
by thefe arts of knaves vv'ho had previoufly cheat-
ed them, (h h)

Nqtes

NOTES TO FOL. L

NOTE A. p. 12,

Phofphoric Light of the Sea, -

HE mofi careful obfervers have remarked,
that this light appears in various afpeds, owing,
mofl: probably, to a diverfity- of caufes. Of thefe
appearances, one fort feems to undulate round
the fides of veffels failing in the ocean, and ne*
ver fpreads lo any great diftance : Another fpe-
cies is obferved to arife in the courfe of long
calms, or immediately after them, and at th^
termination of a feries of hot weather ; it fpreads
over the furface of the deep ; and feems even to
be intermingled with the waters : A third di-
verfity of thefe lights often covers the ocean to a
ftili wider extent, and is fo modified in its fiiin-
ing, as if il arofe from the bodies of different a-
nimals.

Vol, I, F f f Goncernini^

44Q N*OTES.

Concernhig the firft of thefe fea-Iighxts, it lias
been foo:gefted, that they are moft probably pro-
cnced by the operation of the laws of elearicity.
Tiie friaion occafioned by the rapid motion of a
flap tlirouo:h the waves, the bituminous fubftan-
ces upon the fides of velTels, the nails ilicking in
the bottom, aiad the conduding power of water,
are circumflances from which the evolution of
eleäirical matter, in this cafe, may be plaufibly
inferred. ■

As to the fecond ; it is wtll known that many
animal bodies putrify and are diffolved in the fea,
and that almoft all animal matters, many mine-
ral fubliances, and even the atmofphere itfelf^
contain pliofphoric acid. Inflammable matter
added to this acid, v^iil produce the fubilance
called pbofphoric acid. Large quantities of this
fubilance may therefore be formed in the ocean
by t he union of the phofphoric acid evolved from
various bodies, with the oily and other inflam-
mable particles difFufed in great abundance
through the waters. Hence, probably, this light,
which commonly fiicceeds calms, and hot wea->
tber, and appears not to depend upon any cir-
cumftance that can be readily referred to in the
laws of eleöricity.

The third fort has every appearance of being
occafioned by living animals. The genera of
Sepi(s and MeduJ(s^ with fome fliell fifhes, are all

phofphorefcent.

N o T^: s, 441

phofphoreicent. Some fpecies, too, of the ge-
nus Scolope/idra or Ceniipes, which fliine during
the darknels of the night, although land-infeclsj
are at times conveyed by the winds into Xht
fea. Oil the night of Oclober 3cth 1772, Dr.
Forfter faw a very beaatifnl exhibition of this
fort of fea-li^>ht, off the Ca/^e ofG^.od li^^pe, at
a fsw miles d ft ;nc^^ from the fhore, an. hile
a freüi gale biev., ^-i-' ^> examining, lii:e Mr
Forßial and Mr Niebubr, a üucket of the wa-
ter on which it was difplaycil, he was convin-
ced that it proceeded from living animalcules.
Dr Sparmann cbferved, in the years 1772 and
1775, that the Mollufca and Mediifcs, both phof-
phorefcent animals, were diffufed in fuch maf-
fes near the furface of the ocean, and moved
with fuch a niing and falling motion, as feemed
perfediy adequate to the produdion of the
phoenomenon.

See what is faid on this fubjecft by Pere Bourzes in the Lettres Edi-
fiantes ; Tome ix. Paris, 1730: Mr Canton in the Phil, Trans. Vol.
X. P. 446 : Forfler's obfervations in a voyage round the world. P.
Lond» 1778: Sparmann's voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, Vol. r.
p. 4, Engl. Trans. Lond. 1778.

NOTE E, p. 3. Mar fellies^

Perhaps the reader may not be ill-pleafed to
find here feme fev/ particulars concerning this
F f f 2 celebrated

44^

N O T E S.

celebrated city, extracted chiefly from a very
amufmg late publication.

It is the moil ancient city in France. It was
founded by a colony of Aüatic Greeks. It was
long an independent commercial republic. At
length, in the progrefs of the Roman conquefts
in Gaul, Marfeilles was alfo fubdued by their
arms. Under the gentle government of the Ro-
mans» however, it flill continued to fiouriüi
in commerce, arts, and elegant literature. Its
opulence and glory perifned in the common ruin
of the Rom.an Empire. The advantages of its
lituation caufed its trade to revive, even in the
ages of Gothic barbarifm. Still, however, it only
langüiflied under the government of the Counts
of Provence.

Since its union with the other dominions of
the King of France, Marfeilles has enjoyed a
diftind municipal government and j urifdidion,
under magiftrates eleöed by the citizens. The
fubfidies which it pays for the fupport of the
French government are impofed by the King's
edidls, and am©unt to nearly one- third of the
• whole revenue paid by Provence. Its inhabi-
tants are eftimated at more than two hundred
thoufand ; and the progrefs of population and
buildings feems to be rapidly advancing. It
confifls of an Old and a Nev; Town ; the Old in-
habited chiefly by fifhermen, and other poor

people.

people^ tlie New, one of the moil beautiful
towns in the world, for clear, fpacioiis and ex-
tenfive ftreets, elegant, commodious, and regu-
larly built houfes, is occupied bv rich families
whqfe only bußnefs is to enjoy their fortunes ;
and by thrieving merchants, tradefmen, and
manufadurers. The port exhibits a noble fpec-
tacle of commercial indufay : a promifcuous
and bufy multitude, confifcing of people of al-
mofl: all nations and languages, crowd the
quay ; and more than two thoufand vefTeis are
often to be feen in the harbour. The neigh^
bouring territorry is thick fet with villas be-
longing to the opulent inhabitants of Marfeilles ;
the Marfeillefe trade to alniofl all the points of
the compafs, and their manufaclures are very-
various and extenfive.

I have extraded thefe particulars almofl en.,
tirely from Lord Gardenßone'^ s travelling viemor-
andums : A book which does honour to the au-
thor ; being written w^ith fuch happy propriety
ofrefieäiion and obfervation, together with fo
much love of humanity, and thefe fo pleafmgly
coloured with a portion of the fpirit of the ele-
gant bon viva?it, that, (not to fpeak of the ufeful
and folid information which it contains,) I know-
not any book of travels, over which a few
hours m.ay be more agreeably whiled away.

444

NOTES.

KOTE c. p. i5. Caiaconibs.

It would be a curious fu"bje6t of enquiry, and
would tend greatly to elucidate the phyficai hif--
tory of the earth, and no iefs the hiilory of fo-
cieiy ; if we could trace the various forts of fub-
terraneous excavations, natural and artificial,
which have been formed or difcovered in dif-
ferent ages of the v^^orld.

Ii we adopt the opinion of many modern
philofophers, vv^hich indeed can hardly be con-
troverted, that, at the period which is common-
ly cileemed the sra of the creation of the world,
our earth was not actually raifed out of non-
exiilencc, but only moulded by the hand of the
Almighty into a nev/ form, after having previ-
oufiy undergone perhaps numberlefs fimJlar re-
volutions ; we are then obliged to take up its
phyiical hiftory in the middle, and to view it as
a broken fyilem, the imperfect part of vvhich no
efforts of human ingenuity can reuore.

Upon this idea, we muft give up the hope of
being able to clafs the various phcKnomena
which it exhibits. Among other things we
niufi find it impoffible to account for the natu-
ral excavations which are in different places
to be difcovered. Many of tliefe may be
t?ie ciTeds of earthquakes, fabterraneous rava-
ges by water or fire, and volcanic eruptions.

Some

NOTES. 443

Some may have been produced by extraordinary
accidents vrliich have happened on the earth's
furface.

Thofe which have been formed by human art,
have generally been intended as places of ordi-
nary abode ; as temporary recelTes from danger ;
or as catacombs for the fepuiture of the dead.
Of the latter fort many fiili remain in Egypt, in
Alia, and through many places of the wcrld.
And it friould feem, that, efpecially where afües
er embalmed carcafes Vv'ere to be depofited, cata-
combs, hewn out in proper places under ground,
w^ere a much more fuitable contrivancCj than fu-
perb tombs, ereded above it, as fo many palaces
of corruption, darknefs and ßlence.

Another fort of artificial excavations have
been formed by the extradlion of rich materials
for human ufe, from the bovi-els of the earth. '

NOTE D. p. 28.

This account of the imperfed (late of the
Turkiili navigation is confirmed by Savary, par-
ticularly in his letters on Greece ; by De Tott ;
and by every traveller or voyager who has vifit-
ed the Levant, or the Arabic Gulf. Thus are
navigation and comimerce in the m^ofi: languifh-
ing condition in thofe regions where they had
their origin, and where they firfi: civilized and
enriched mankind.

NOTE

/

44^

N O t £ S.

NOTE E, p. 31»

I CANNOT avoid taking tliis opportunity of
lecommeoding to the reader the obfervations of
Mr Ho vvard, and the valuable quarto in which Dr
RuiSei has lately laid before the public the refult
of his long and enlightened experience, on afub-
je6lof fuch curious and awful importance as the
plague» May we not hope that this dreadful
epidemical diftemper fhall be, one day, finally
extirpated from the earth, or like the fmall-pox^
difaimed of its terrors ?

NOTE E. p, 34.

r HAV'E forgotten to what book of travels I
Ihould refer for the ftory of an'Engiiili fhip-cap-
tain, who, in confequence of a wager^ flew u
paper-kite over it, and by this means raifed a
ladder of ropes, by wdiich he and his comrades
afcended to the top of this celebrated pillar^
where, they drank a bowl of punch very merrily^
to the great ailonifliment of all v/ho faw them..

NOTE p. 35.

Whoeveh knows any thing of the turbulence
and fantaftic fuperftition of the Chriftiaos of Egypt,

while

NOTES. 447

while it formed a part of the Greek Empire, will
not very grievioufly lament, that triumphant
Mahometifm has taught them moderation at
leaft, if not good fenfe,j of which they were in-
capable, in profperity.

NOTE Ö. p. 37.

The reader of Dr Robertfon's enlightened and
elegant difquifition concerning the knowledge
which the inhabitants of Europe had of India
before the difcovery of the Cape of Good Hope,,
will there find fatisfadlory information concern-
ing the intercourfe of the Italians with Egypt^
and the introdudtion of their coins and language
into that country.

NOTE H. p. 44.

The charm is not in the Mikklas, but in the
population and cultivation of the country. Ra-
venous animals, w^hether of the fea, or the land^j
are foon deterred by the frequent afped: of man.
Men, too, in their anxiety to rid themfelves of
fuch enemies, gradually thin their numbers
and at laft entirely exterminate them,

NOTE i. p. 56,

For the hiilcry of this race of Caliphs, the
Vol, Io g g I'eader

448

NOTES«

reader will do well to confult Marigney, Ock-
ley, and the Univerfal Hiftory.

NOTE J. p. 57.

It fhould feem, that the difpofition of the in->
habitants of cold climates to remain as much
within their houfes as poffible, has induced
them to rear thofe towering edifices which we
fee in the North of Europe : while a contra»
ry principle has made the people of mild, and
of warm climates, content themfelves with low
huts often.

NOTE K. p. 65,

The curiofities of Geefh are more fully ex»
plained by Mr Bruce, and fome other late tra*
vellers.

NOTE M. p. 75.

For the hiftory of Bey, I muft refer the
reader to the travels of Savary, Volney, Lufig-
nan, and Bruce.

NOTE

NOTES.

449

NOTE N. p. 80.

The hiftory of Ibrahim is to be feen in
Bruce.

NOTE o^ p. 8ie

The adventures of Ali Bey, and the confe-
quences of his defeat, have been narrated at
length by the travellers referred to in note M.

NOTE p. p. 87.

The formation of the Delta has been a fiib-
jed: of fpeculation with every writer concerning
Egypt, from Herodotus to Bruce. — The reader
who is curious on this head, will do well to con-
fult Herodotus, Maillet, Bruce, and Savary.

NOTE Qj. p. 118.

Such a teftimony as this, for the veracity of
our fair country-woman. Lady Mary, muft go
farther in her favour, than the afperflons of twen-
ty De Totts againft her.

G g g 2

NOTE

KOTES,

NOTE R. p. 137.

These anecdotes of the (late of eailern mufic
ferve to confirm the received ideas concerning
the rudenefs of the Jewifh mufic, and the fim-
plicity of that of the ancient Greeks,

NOTE S. 150.

In India, in the north of Afia, in ancient Tuf-
cany, in Afijria in Ireland, if we will truft Mr
Ledwich, and, perhaps, in the South> Sea iflands,
have been fuch nations as th-ofe here alluded to»

NOTE u. p. 164.

Those who are curious to profecute invefiiga^
lions refpeding the pyramids, vv'ould do well to
confult Governor Pownali's Efiay on the Study
of Antiquities ; a worl^ written in a very invol-
ved and perplexed fiyle indeed, yet with great
force of language, vv^ith extraordinary powers of
penetration and invention, and with a very un-
common difplay of liberal, enlightened erudition,

NOTE V. p, 195.

I SHALL here refer the reader^, for farther infor-,

mation

KOTES*

mation concerning thefe places, not only to Shaw
and Pococke, but more efpecially to a fmal] work
intituled, A Journal from Grand Cairo to Mount
Sinai and hack again, translated from an Italian
mannfcript, hy the Right Reverend Robert Lord
BiJJjop of Clogher : Printed at London, by the
learned William Bowyer, in 1753.

NOTE w. p. 198.

This circumilance is particularly worthy of
notice, for its relation to the miracle by which
a path was opened through the Red Sea, for the
efcape of the* jfraelites, — and the Egyptians
drowned in attempting to purfue them. In my
eye the miraculous nature of that event is not
lefTened by the fad here üated,

NOTE X. p. 199.

We have all obferved how greatly objects
are magnified, when feen through miit.

NOT^: Y. p. 199

Concerning this canal, the reader may fee
Herodotus, the late travellers in Egypt, and
Robertfon's difquifition,

NOTE

452

K O T E S.

NOTF Z. p. 207,

It occurs to me, as the mofi probable con-
jeclure on this head, that this might have been
the original burying place of fome tribe or fa-
mily, who were afterwards induced to advance
nearer the fea-coall, and cultivate the arts, but
Hill retained the fame veneration for the fepul-
chres of their fathers, which made Jacob and
jofeph fo defirous that their bones might be
carried into the land of Canaan. It is truely
difficult to judge of the principles of condud:
upon which thofe people acted, who could raife
fuch piles of buildings as the pyramids for bury-
ing places.

NOTE AA. p. 233.

The reader of Mr Pennant's Britifh Zoology
will find, that fome equally ingenious expedients
are pradiied in England for taking feveral forts,
of wild fowls,

MOTE BE. p. 239.

FaPvTher and later information concerning
Jidda and its trade will be found in ßruce's Tra-
vels.

NOTES* 453

vels. The reader may alfo confalt Hamilton's
account of the Eaft Indies.

NOTE cc. p. 286.

Whep.e inns are maintained by charitable ho-
fpitality, or at the public expence, or are imper-
fedly furniüied with articles for the accommo..
dation of travellers ; in all thefe inftances, the
country mufl certainly be indifferently civilized,
or thinly inhabited, and travelling not frequent.
I know not if any fpeculations could exhibit fo-
ciety in a more interefting light, than a Hiftory
of Hofpitality.

NOTE EE. p, 289.

Not only in Arabia and Iceland, but in Ire-
land, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, in the
Hebudae, in moß: countries in Europe and in
all parts of the world, are Bafaltic columns to
be found. All rocks are either ft ratified or co-
lumnar ; a diftindlion which feems to befpeak a
diverfity of origin. This mineralogifts have
laboured to explain, whether fuccefsfully or
not, I fhall not prefume to fay.

454

NOTE FF. p. 315.

How late is it in the progrefs of focial life^
"before the wrathful paffions of the human heart
are entirely fubjeded to impartial, diiinterefted
law I

NOTE FF. 2, p. 422.

I would here fuggell to the reader, that, on
the fubjed of the Gy plies, he may perufe with
advantage and pleafure, a curious hiftorical ef-
fay which has been tranllated from the German
by Mr Raper.

NOTE GG. p. 434

Some additional llories of this call, relative
to the dealings of European merchants with the
Arabians in the ports of the Red Sea, are to be
found in Hamilton's account of theEall Indies.

NOTE HPi. p. 438^

In Mr Bruce's tfavels the reader will find
fome valuable information concerning the com -
mercial intercourfe of the Europeans from their
oriental fettlements, with the Arabians and
Egyptians, by the way of the Red Sea.

FINIS.

ERRATA.-^VOL. 1.

Pag^e lotli, line 8th from the bottom^ for mrie rcTid fifteen,

P. i 8tli, line 4th. from the bottom, for 2600 read 26,000. '

P. 2 1 ft, Hne 15th, from the top, for Beut read Bent ;
and alfo in line 1 6th.

P. 23d, line 6th, from the top, for Tripolis read Tripoli,
Same page, line 6th, from the bottom, for clergyman read
Catholic clergyman,

P. 69th, line I Ith, from the top, for the inlands read
their lands.

P. 76th, line 7th, from the bottom, for tho read the,

P 1 14th, line 1 3th^ from the top, for fiaved read feaven^

and line 15 th, for it read them.

P. 1 5 2d, line ift, top, for mun read muß.,

P. 163d, line loth, from the top, for coffer read coßln,

P. 190th line 8th, from the bottom, for dißance ivhere

our tentSy read dißance from where our tents.

i